1978 Custom G-Machine Trans Am. IT'S FINALLY DONE!!

[Takid455]

Since there seem to be a bunch of bowties and fords here, I will represent the Trans Am folk. I figured with progress being made on the car and hopes to complete it and drive it the T/A nats in august of 2007.
Back in 2001, I had purchased this 1978 4spd t top t/a with the intents of making it a street sleeper and an excellent handler hoping to keep up with M3's, vetts and maybe a 911. DO some weekend auto cross and compete in open road races such as the silver state classic, pony express, ect.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

well after college, I found this current 1978 t/a which had may mods done to it so it took the lead. the other 78 will get the unsed or items that were replaced on the current t/a.
I purchased the car in September 2005 from the original owner. Prior to my acquisition, many modifications had been done to the car. It even had contact with a wall which is why it had not front end sheet metal. Some of the modifications include Herb Adams front and rear sway bars, brake cooling ducts and other body and suspension mods listed in his handbook, weld in subframe connectors essentially making it a unibody car, support )H-beam) for added strength, .45caliber bullet hole in left ¼, switches to individually turn on/ off tail, side and head lights for ‘stealth’ driving ( not sure why anybody would think of doing such thing J), 474 engine with Holley projection 4, accusump oil reserve, nitrous just for giggles. Here is what it looked like when I first picked it up.

Original back in 1992 before accident
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/07/old-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/interior-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/drvrear-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/rear1-1.jpg

Some damage
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/DVC01405-1.jpg

Pulling the body straight
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/Onframemachine2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/Onframemachine4-1.jpg


In addition to what has been done, I have/ will add the following:
GW upper and lower control arms with Aldan Eagle coil-overs, Koni’s in the rear
Aluminum radiator w/ dual elec. fans
4 wheel disc brakes by Kore3 to fit C5/C6 rotors and calipers
Modern lighting
Lizard skin heat and sound insulation coatings
T-56 (currently being built) w/ hydr. T/O bearing
Engine beefed up w/ KRE heads and roller cam
17 or 18” 3 piece wheels, still trying to decide although I am close. Wheels are way more expensive than I ever thought
All undercarriage and suspension parts are powder coated.

Some more pics
May plan of “just put it back together” didn’t hold for too long

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/barebody-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/3e71940c-1.jpg

[Takid455]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/84d779a5-1.jpg

At paint shop (10/06) for body work and primer, they will also do the final wet sanding on the high build sealer (HOK) and paint after I dry sand the initial high build primer(Claussen Z-chrome).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT1189-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT1191-1.jpg

Few months later 12/06 its back. Looks like a leopard

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/Highbuildprimer2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/Highbuildprimer6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/Highbuildprimer26-1.jpg

Had to take the hood, trunk lid, and fenders down again because the original body guy I had lined up did something wrong and they were rusting under the freshly applied primer. Better to find out now than later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT0091-1.jpg

Sanding the primer and under side. That hippie needs a hair cut. (1/06) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT1058-1.jpg

Looks like a car for the first time since 1993 (2/06)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT0095-1.jpg

Hoping this
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT0171-1.jpg

Will fit into here
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT0164-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/02/PICT0165-1.jpg

As of this writing 2/18/07, all plastic body bolts on are sanded and ready for sealer. I am waiting for G-Force trans to finish modifying the Lakewood bell housing to mate up to the t-56. I have found a builder for the T-56 which will be comprised of a 06 Z06 unit (don’t know how he got it, but it was reasonable and I’m not asking questions), the Z06 unit also has an built in pump so I can run a cooler for the trans should it be necessary, viper output shaft and tail and the usual keyway and fork upgrades. This should be good for 750 HP. Not sure why all trans are rated for HP when torque is what kills them. Once the bell is received, I will bolt the trans up to the engine and see exactly how much I have to open up the trans tunnel. A t-56 will fit in the tunnel w/o mods, but that is if you were to drop the body on to a frame per se, it will not be able to be removed or install with a clutch bolted to the fly wheel. I will have more updates on this as I make them. Oh, a custom cross member is also needed,

[jeffandre]

Love that car, has an interesting story and will be bada$$ when done. What width wheels/tires are you thinking of running?

[Leadfoot1]

Nice build!

Any other Z-06 parts available??? :naughty: Engine maybe?

I saw you want to install the brakes...

Keep this up! (Like you need cheering up! this is up from '93 right?!)

Lead.

[WhiteG240]

Do you still happen to have the 4 speed setup? Car looks good. What setup did you end up using for the T56?

[Bandit]

Awesome job, and very thorough on the build. Rarely do you see a 2nd-gen (that is not a concourse resto) done to this level of perfection. It is going to be an absolute monster when it is finished! You are taking an already-cool car and ironing out all of the discrepancies from the factory, dramatically improving performance, and I'm sure it is going to look awesome too.

PLEASE keep us updated, I can't wait to see this bad boy finished! :fingersx:

Paul

[Takid455]

Thank you all for the comments. they all help add motivation. Here is the lin that has more pics of the car
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v235/Takid455/1978%20TA%20%20gold/?start=all

Jeff- I plan on running 8" w/ 255 up front and 10" with 275 or 295 in the rear. the 17"/18" choice is still in the air. The deciding factor will be how they look on the car. I have been aving and looking at other t/a's with 17 & 18" wheels. Most 17's look good, as for 18's, it depends on the wheel and tire size. I have seen 19 & 20's and don't car for them much. I am looking at Boze mesh, Forgeline WC3, frank's snowflakes and kinesis K28. either way they are not cheap.

Leadfoot - sorry, no other Z06 items available. The fellow originally thought it was a C5R trans but after speaking with G-Force, he said it was an 06 Z06. Either way its brand new and will serve me well. for 2k(just the stock trans. total build it around 3500) I figured its not much more than a used core and it has carbon triple syncro rings already in it and a oil cooler pump. Up from 93, 93 was the last time it was driving, I bought the car in sept of 05. car has been in the owner garage since then.

White G240- no 4spd stuff, car was automatic. As for t56 setup i am using, many variables here but I hope the following answers the question; LS1 front plate w/ hyd. t/o bearing, Z06 trans (any LSX trans can be used, even viper but you will need to switch the input shafts or go w/ a different bell), viper tail machine for triple syncros by g-force as with a viper tail housing. the viper tail is needed for shifter to come up in the stock location as well as provide clearance for the member going across the floor. I call it a mutt trans.:) that information right there will save any propect countless hours of R&D. custom aluminum drive shaft and gm 10 bolt for now since it has the WATT's link suspension hooked up to it. if and when it blows, i'll get a strange 9" made for leaf spring f-body's. all else not mentioned are stock 78 t/a items.
Maybe one day i'll market a conversion kit for late second gen t/a's.



Bandit - very moving words as always:twothumbs
I awaite it completion as much as anybody. just hope my gold and black color scheme will work out. picking a nice gold that doesn't look like mustard or from the 70's is tough. I'm sure it will have some pearl in it. Car goes in for final sealing and paint mid march and should return end of april/ early may.

[Takid455]

UPDATE 3/2/07

Since the last post, I stopped by the trans shop and looked at exactly what was inside this 6 speed mechanical device. Lots of parts, but nothing that looked difficult to build. Then again, nothing is hard if you know what you are doing. I supposed after about 3 shots, I might get it right. Gforce had sent the modified bellhousing and custom mainshaft to work with triple cone viper tail housings. Very interesting and nicely machine piece. Top notch work by Gforce. Here are some pics

Stuff, look at that bad boy. Rated to 750HP . Gears are the weakest link in this. Better gears are rated to 1200HP and cost 2200. I supposed if you can afford that power , you can afford the gears.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0186-1.jpg

Gears
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0180-1.jpg

Carbon fiber syncros, not what I envisioned, but I guess they work well
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0181-1.jpg

I had thought that I would be in for a long night of cutting and welding to fit this trans in the tunnel. With the engine tilted at 4* which is the angle of the carb mounting surface relative to the centerline of the engine, the trans fit in and bolted up in about 1 minute. Not lying here. This is with clutch and all bolted up as well. I instantly doubled checked all heights, angles, ect and all were good to go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0197-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0194-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0195-1.jpg


So I moved on to the shifter using a stock viper unit. Sawzall and a carbide cutter made a nice opening in the tunnel. I have to move the shifter shaft in about 1” so it doesn’t hit the console. I will be installing a short throw, which will be normal throw with the add height/ length of the shifter. Mcleod makes a nice short throw that can be tailored to your specs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0206-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0209-1.jpg


This is all for now. Tomorrow is finish sanding spoilers and bumpers, fit hydrobooster and hyd. Master cyl in firewall.

[PonchoJohn]

Nice Dude!!

[AndyD]

what bellhousing are you using?; their wier piece?

[1971novaSS]

Gotta give respect to not only your incredibly nice project but also.... TO MILLER LITE BEER BABY.. In the trunk.... hehe

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT1059-1.jpg

[Takid455]

"Gotta give respect to not only your incredibly nice project but also.... TO MILLER LITE BEER BABY.. In the trunk.... hehe"

haha - sometime you just need a nice cold one and things seem to all of the sudden get better.

"what bellhousing are you using?; their wier piece?"

Using a lakewood bell that has been modified to bolt to a t56. I dont know what you mean by 'wier piece". Last time I used a wier it was for a detension basin and to divert water in a manhole for stormwater. Being a civil engineer and growing up working on and building cars since I was a child, yeilds some odd thoughts that the DEP and towns frown upon. for instance, isntalling a turbo type devise in a stormwater system to shoot water up an incline w/o the use of electric pumps. How ever, the down side would be that during high flows, it would create too much upstream pressure in the system and manholes and inlets would fly in the air. A cool/funny things to watch, but if one of those boogers landed on your toe, you would be walking funny for a while. not to mention it would ruin your day.

[Beige]

Sounds like it's gonna turn out to be a sweet car.


for instance, isntalling a turbo type devise in a stormwater system to shoot water up an incline w/o the use of electric pumps. How ever, the down side would be that during high flows, it would create too much upstream pressure in the system and manholes and inlets would fly in the air. A cool/funny things to watch, but if one of those boogers landed on your toe, you would be walking funny for a while. not to mention it would ruin your day.
You'd just need to install the equivallant of either a wastegate or a blowoff valve to your storm drain turbo and there wouldn't be a problem. Or just add a braking system to keep the impeller from spinning too fast.

[WhiteG240]

PM Sent

[Bandit]

UPDATE 3/2/07


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0206-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0209-1.jpg


Hey buddy--looks familiar! Nice job on lining up the shifter location.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[AndyD]

http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/id3.html

that's the bellhousing set up i was talking about. I thought it kind of looked like what u were using

[Takid455]

bandit - is that a stock 4spd shift rod there or an aftermarket unit? how do you like its position? ( your hand relation to the shifter knob)

[Takid455]

andy - oh ok, I remember looking at that bell. here are my thoughts on it;
Its Aluminum. After seeing pictures of exploding clutches, flywheels, ect and how I realy enjoy having my right foot(we're kinda close), SFI 1/4" steel bell was the only way I was going. those rotating parts will chew right through Aluminum and your foot. another point would be cost, not sure what wier sell them for, but lakewoods are 350 or so new.

now granted, if you have a 300-400 hp application that you just cruise, I suppose it would work just fine. I feel the wier has a good product for that market. Once power increases to 600ft/lbs and 525+/- hp and intend on racing, I feel safer w/ a sronger material. also it will pass tech.

[Ripper]

Wow, great project!

I have a -74 myself with similar modifications!
What are your plans for suspension? You talked about racing in an earlier post and I guess you mean track days?

My car lacks some comfort, but it's really fast at track or auto crossing. Let me know if you want some secret tips :secret:

[AndyD]

andy - oh ok, I remember looking at that bell. here are my thoughts on it;
Its Aluminum. After seeing pictures of exploding clutches, flywheels, ect and how I realy enjoy having my right foot(we're kinda close), SFI 1/4" steel bell was the only way I was going. those rotating parts will chew right through Aluminum and your foot. another point would be cost, not sure what wier sell them for, but lakewoods are 350 or so new.

now granted, if you have a 300-400 hp application that you just cruise, I suppose it would work just fine. I feel the wier has a good product for that market. Once power increases to 600ft/lbs and 525+/- hp and intend on racing, I feel safer w/ a sronger material. also it will pass tech.

I see. What are you using for a cluth and flywheel set up?

[Takid455]

Ripper - PM snet

Andy - hoping to use the stock flywheel. clutch has yet to be detrmined. I have heard good and bad about centerforce, so I 'm am not sure about them. maybe Ram or Spec. I am not a fan of the dual clutch set up becuase it does not interchange witha stock part in case of unexpected failure. its fly wheel , pressure plate an dcluthes are all unique. This is something I wil lbe investigating soon.

[Bandit]

bandit - is that a stock 4spd shift rod there or an aftermarket unit? how do you like its position? ( your hand relation to the shifter knob)
Just to clarify, my car has a TKO 600. (Obviously you have to rethink things a little when installing a T56.) The shift rod on my tranny is how it came set up from Keisler, I think Keisler changes the location a bit. I am using the Hurst version of the stock 4-spd shifter, it is bent the same as stock and the handle location is basically where it would be on a stock 4-speed car.

[Takid455]

I, as well as the fellow who replied to my questions, decided that these comments should be posted in this thread in case others have questions regarding the build of this car.

Did you have to modify the trans tunnel to fit the 6spd. It does not appear that it is required, but I just want to make sure that I am not measuring wrong or have forgotten something.

Are those seats confortable for lets say a 4+ hour cruise?

Love to hear more about your inginition set up.



TIP TIPS TIPS...what do you have. Regarding the trans tunnel; No, I didn't have to modify it. It's tight, but it can be done! Not sure what trans you're using but mine is a -96 LT1. I went for the standard aluminium bellhouse which I mated with a BOP house to get the correct bolt pattern. With this config. I have no problems with space anywhere.

I'm currently using a Centerforce 11" clutch with a light weight Hayes flywheel. It weights about 20 pounds and I think the stock version is around 30-35 or so.
Basically, I chopped some material off from it;
http://transam.luminasweden.com/driv...s/DSCF3004.jpg (http://transam.luminasweden.com/drive_line/pics/DSCF3004.jpg)
http://transam.luminasweden.com/driv...s/DSCF3002.jpg (http://transam.luminasweden.com/drive_line/pics/DSCF3002.jpg)
Don't know exactly how much it did since I build a new engine at the same time, but the engine revs upp really quickly now! It feels much more responsive than it did before and I think much of that is because of the flywheel.

If my seats are comfy for a 4+ hour drive? Hmmm... I would say yes, but then again - no seats are comfortably for non-stop sitting in them.


Ok. Your suspension seems fine, however I would probably go with stiffer springs. I don't know if Europeans are used to stiffer sprung cars from start but people in america tend to use softer springs than people in Europe. :enguard:
I started with 650 lbs/in springs, but I had really big problems with pitchning during hard braking and it was hard to control the car. I replaced those springs for a 1150 lbs/in setup last season and that was as night and day! The car is stable, doesn't pitch that much and rollstiffness was increased. You might think that's to hard, but I would say that you should go atleast 8-900 lbs/in.
Whatever stiffnes you decide to go with, make sure that your shocks are shimmed(?) right. It doesn't matter how many "clicks" you can set for your self - if the shocks are initially set wrong, you can't compensate for that. Shocks that you buy, tend to be set for very soft springs. I send my Koni's to a shock shop here in Sweden to have them correctly shimmed. Didn't cost much (I would say 40-50 dollars per shock or so) and was worth every penny!
Switching the front springs for stiffer, changed the balance of the car since the rear leafs are stock hotchkis (about 175lbs/in or so).
There are some problems with high power, RWD cars with solid rear axle (is it called solid? opposite to IRS rear suspension) - you need soft rear springs to get traction out of the corners, but soft springs will make your inner front wheel lift from the ground. You could compensate with a stiffer sway bar but then again, you will get problems with over steer and have to wait until after apex before you can press the right pedal...
It's all about compromises...

You have similar diameter sway bars as me and I'm satisfied with mine (T/A stock), allthough I switched the poly bushings for solid PA6 (same caracteristics as Delrin, but stiffer) since flex is the last thing you want in the sway bar bushings and you don't have the same problems with bind as in the rest of the suspension.
This season, I'll update with solid end links and will try to make the rear bar adjustable. My rear bar is only 15/16" and I think a 1" might be better. What differs the Addams bar from the stock versions?


The VSE bar has hiem links instead of links with poly bushings to eliminate flex. I believe some of the geometry is different as well

You also want to use something else than polyurethane between the axle and the springs. I have problems with axle moving around on the bushings which creates unpredictable reactions at hard cornering (this is the first year that I'll use R-rated tires so problems will probably be even bigger now...). I'm switching the lower bushing for something stiffer that will locate the axle mount around those small screw heads in the leafs better.
I might even keep parts of the polyurethane bushing and just make a solid bushing between spring and the lower plate.



(Did you get anything of that??? I haven't been practicing my english for years and it's kind of hard to start with this kind of discussions when you don't have all words, expressions etc fresh in your memory... Sorry if I just made you confused.)

Your english is good. Better than my swedish which is nil.:yeah:

Let me know if I helped you with anything or just made you more confused? :confused:
If you want further information about anything, let me know!

good luck with your project. I'll follow it.
BTW, we can have the discussion in your thread if you want, then more people can comment with their experience...


Keep it up,
Anders

[Ripper]

Glad that you found my reply informative. :)



The VSE bar has hiem links instead of links with poly bushings to eliminate flex. I believe some of the geometry is different as well

The geometry is only different if the bolt to the arm in another place than the stock versions do or if the arms are different length.
Solid links are good though, that's what I'm going in near future. I'll try to drill some extra holes in the rear to make it adjustable as I wrote before.

[F70t/a]

Wow, great project!

I have a -74 myself with similar modifications!
What are your plans for suspension? You talked about racing in an earlier post and I guess you mean track days?

My car lacks some comfort, but it's really fast at track or auto crossing. Let me know if you want some secret tips :secret:


Ripper,

is your car almost all metal besides the stuff you made?

[Ripper]

F70t/a;

Yes, it's almost all steel except for some shaved weight here and there..
Something special you're thinking about?

[F70t/a]

F70t/a;

Yes, it's almost all steel except for some shaved weight here and there..
Something special you're thinking about?


I was just wondering what your cars weight was:poke:

[Takid455]

Update 4/2
Since the last update lost of little items have been attended. Trans tunnel/console mount is attached to car, provisions for hydraulic master clutch cylinder has been made, weld on interior ‘H-beams’ and sub frame connectors have been smoothed and filled. Lizard skin coating has been applied to the interior of the car instead of dynamat. We’ll see out this stuff works out in the future. I held off on applying the sound control as my other t/a’s don’t sound all too load on the inside. Much loader when standing outside of the car. I assume this is due to the location of the tail pipe being a long distance relatively to the driver. I can always apply this with a brush later if the sound is deemed too load. But as the old saying goes, if its too load, your too old. Seam sealer has been applied to all seams and undercoating to the lower inner ¼’s as 1) they love rust and I am trying to break that bond and 2) rubber is easily removed from undercoating. All items that bolt on to the car have been sanded and initial bodywork done (spoilers, bumper covers, ect.) A new fender was add to the car as the original pass side fender that I had intended to use did not want to cooperate and would take more time trying to make it work than just starting over. I have also made provision for the battery cable to run through the frame into the truck where the battery will be located. Car as of today has left to the body shop for final sealing, fixing things that they missed the first time (not a big deal since were are still w/in the original contract as far as agreement, work to be done and money is concerned), wet sanding, subframe installation and paint. So the next time the car comes home, it will look all pretty. YIPEEEE. Gosh I hate bodywork. OK, so here are some pics:

No rusting here
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/PICT0234-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/PICT0233-1.jpg

No more messy welds by previous owner and Lizard Skin

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/PICT0231-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/PICT0227-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/PICT0229-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/04/PICT0226-1.jpg

A final round of powder coat was sent out as well. Just a few things to detail and polish and its assembly time.

[Takid455]

Not that I care or it matters, but 1000+ views whoo hoo.

[Takid455]

Playing with color scheme ideas. after several test panels, I decided to do fender (junk one I had laying around) to get a better idea. here is where we are at the moment. also, the T56 is done and looks great. both the powder coater and trans builder are goingt to use it on their websites.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/PICT0535-1.jpg
due to lack of sun and camera, teh color is off slightly. this seems to be a problem with golds and pearls.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/PICT0534-1.jpg

the area around the extractor better represents the actual gold color

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/PICT0536-1.jpg

close up of scheme.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/6g4bbtj-2.jpg

image courtesy of fellow board member

paint colors are HOK goldmine pearl, candy apple over soar gold followed by mercedes/ european black. the front and rear will tapper down a little. this is just for an idea to see how it would look around the body line.

[Ripper]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/6g4bbtj-2.jpg


Hmmm, are you sure that you're gonna split the colors in the middle of the front? I think it would look strange when you stand in front of the car. Same thing for the rear, or will you perhaps go with a black rear end and just gold on the upper side of the wing?


Nice wheels! Brand?

[Takid455]

the front and rear will not be split in the middle. this is just a basic idea mainly concerned w/ the overall effect. I am playing with the front and rear as we speak. from the side, the rear may look like it shows, but it will follow teh outer bumper line. so if you looked down from above, you will just see a pin stripe of black on the outer endge of the bumper, same for the front. the black on the front of the fender will tapper down. Having the front and back split as you are thinking would be ugly.:barf:

[TBART70]

that is one nice clean car, hope to see it around someday. NJ

[Takid455]

tbart70 - where in NJ are you located?

[Takid455]

Been a bit since I last updated this. Since the last post here is a tid bit on what all has happened and been accomplished.
All body work is completed on the car and was shot in a sealer. House of Kolors does not make the slime green sealer any more do to regulations ( damn environmentalist) so we had to use what they now make and use a gray sealer on top of this in order to use less paint. the gray sealer will be applied after the red sealer is wet sanded at 400. The underside will be shot in gold, subframe fitted and weld prior to the body being painted. I have to decide whether or not I want to put a roll bar in it to comply with certain racing regulations. most like not to comply w/ SCCA as that requires and entire cage. Mainly looking at 4 point like the Year One bandit car. have to check measurements I took for compliance. Hopefully I will be able to do that and compy with SCCA club or vintage racing and open road races such as silver state.
I have picked up some items such as KRE heads, cam, and a nice Aluminum radiator to keep this sukka cool. Engine is being line bored for new 4 bolt caps. A set of C5 calipers to halt this heavy mass as well. without further ado here are some pics of my red car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/PICT1153-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/PICT1152-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/PICT1155-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/08/PICT1157-1.jpg

While this is being done, I have installed a new 400 in my 79 so I have a car to cruise around town and have fun. thought about taking it to the nats but 3.23 for 600miles one way would be a lot of gas at 12 MPG

[Takid455]

Wanted to update this for a while, the stars in the universe just haven’t lined up for me. As of this point, assembly is taking place starting with the suspension and then the engine and mechanical components and plumbing. The bottom of the car is painted and looks nice. All that time rubbing and scraping the underside has paid off. Too bad this area will only be seen when on a lift. While this all looks nice, some odd issue have come up, the LCA by Global West did not fit, they were off by ¼”. We resolved this by having, instead of ¼” thick thrust washers on the sides of the bushings, 1/8” washers on the outsides and 3/8” washers on the inside. This keeps the geometry in the intended locations. Global West was great working this problem out and shipped the required thrust washers to me within a few days. While there prices maybe slightly higher compared to other similar parts, their customer service is top notch. Another issue I had was the top of the coil over shocks hit on the subframe. Aldan Eagle is correcting this situation by providing me with different shock top and corresponding shorter spring. They picked up the shocks and I am waiting for the news ones. Better they fix it as compressing 650# springs wouldn’t be the easiest of tasks. Again, another stand up company and American made to boot. Other issues include finding bushings to fit vse leaf springs and sway bars which are long out of production. Prothane has a set that will work and are on their way.

I received front and rear brake setup from Kore3. This stuff is car part porn if it ever existed. Even my local machinist was in awe at the quality of the parts. Fit is dead on and all parts are cadmium or zinc coated to prevent rust. Every nut, bolt, washer, ect is included in the kit and will work with any of the corvette brakes from C5 and C6, C6 Z51 and Z06 as long as the caliper assy. matches that of the rotor. Excellent work from Tobin (owner of Kore3)

C5/6 brake interchange
All C5 and base C6 brakes are the same period just caliper color changes for Z06
C6 Z51 brake option will use above calipers , but reuires different caliper brackets
C6 Z06 is all together different. Rotors, pads, calipers and brackets are all different than above.

While suspension issue are being resolved, I cleaned up the chambers in the KRE heads and port match the intake to the heads. A lot of material must be removed from a RPM intake to match the ports of these heads. Air flow shouldn’t be a problem. I have been working on adapting a hydrobooster from an astro van to the car. I basically have to cut down the bracket on the stock booster and lengthen the rod on the hydroboost unit. I will probably have 1 or 2 iterations of the bracket before I am happy with it. I figure if all else fails; I can always call Paul at Hydrotech and get on of his units. Engine build will start this week.

w/o further ado, some pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1590-1.jpg

looking towards the rear
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1591-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1619-1.jpg

looking towards the front
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1592-1.jpg

Cadmium plated hardware to prevent rust. I hate rust and 2nd gens love it.
Before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1548-1.jpg

After
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1569-1.jpg

some parts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1564-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1501-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1502-1.jpg

Kore3 porn
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1549-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1550-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1551-1.jpg

[Takid455]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1618-1.jpg

I had to modify the spindles to work with this setup. A cut-off wheel, sawzall, sander and file got the job done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1507-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1504-1.jpg

LCA issue

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1579-1.jpg

KRE heads before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/KREheads1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/KREheads2-1.jpg

After
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1594-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1593-1.jpg

And finally just for the records…
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/12/PICT1572-1.jpg

whew…engine is next and finishing suspension when all missing parts arrive.

[Motown 454]

Now I know how my wife feels with her soap opera's, I can't wait to see the next update. Looks great keep the pictures comming!

[PonchoJohn]

For some reason, my old post is gone.... Anywho, I LOVE the paint scheme. This is a very nice T/A.
Keep it up!

[BADVELLE]

I have to ask why you spent so much time on the under belly of the car, looks good in the pics, but the firewall is pretty rough looking from the pic.

[Kiddi]

Awsome.... There are plenty of Pontiac nuts on here!

PS. Like your color btw!!! I kinda like the '93 look with the 3rd gen GTA wheels... looks good

KR

[Takid455]

Thanks for the comments. I think finding a nice color combo is on eof the hardest things when doing a cusom job. this gold seem sto look nice, unfortuately it is not camera freindly (every picture looks like a different color).


I have to ask why you spent so much time on the under belly of the car, looks good in the pics, but the firewall is pretty rough looking from the pic.

The underside was basically cleaned and painted. the passenger side firewall will be coverd by the A/C box ao that is why I didn't finess that area. the remainder of the fire will be mostly hidden by the time all the accesories are installed. this is also one ofthe reasons I didn't try to smooth the firewall.

[Takid455]

Finally bugged the powder coating guy to finish my parts and they magically appeared. I had to custom order some bushings for the VSE/Rancho components even though they (prothane) listed them. I don’t get it, but whatever. I had to send the shocks back to Aldan to be remade as they shipped me the wrong ones 1.5 years ago. They send me ones that fit no questions asked. A stand up company. I’ll get to finish the suspension this weekend hopefully. In the mean time, after looking through books of color chips, I picked a color for my engine. I is a 1971 AMC blue. Looks nice and I feel it will set the chrome items off well and stand out in the gold/black engine bay. I left the heads aluminum and took some recommendations from other members to use Alumiprep33 and Alodine 1001 to prevent corrosion. We’ll see how this works. I friend of mine mentioned that he had a lathe so I made new Watt’s Link bars. They came out decent after some buffing. I also scored so Recaro seats from a nearby fellow for 250. . I may redye them to match the rears or vise versa. These will sever well in the meantime before I redo the interior if I ever decide to do so. Even if I don’t use them, I always wanted a set of Recaro classic N seats. Some pics:

Seats
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1723-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1722-1.jpg

Rear suspension
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1721-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1720-1.jpg

Engine
Block
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1676-1.jpg

Bottom
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1678-1.jpg

Top
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1679-1.jpg


High build primer for a semi smooth look. I could make it look like glass if I felt like sanding for hours which I don’t.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1704-1.jpg

Color, no head
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1707-1.jpg

w/ heads

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1716-1.jpg

w/ stock not so nice chrome valve covers
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1718-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1719-1.jpg

Next on the list is
1) making the tranny x-member,
2) Measuring for the required driveshaft length and farming that out
3) Running the brake and fuel plumbing
4) Measuring for location of ‘X’ pipe and ordering the RARE oval system
5) Install in tank fuel pump setup from 99-up t/a or camaro
6) Finalize hydroboost setup
7) Decide on either Mcleoad twin disk clutch or a centerforce unit
8) Decide on rims. 17’s or 18’s. 17’s look nice, but 18’s allow room for bigger brakes....hummm those Forgeline WCP3 wheels look nice w/ a gun metal center.

[TBART70]

tbart70 - where in NJ are you located?
Jefferson, NJ
that thing is looking nice!

[WS6]

Awesome build. What are the two silver rods connected to the diff?

[Code Red]

looking good man

[Takid455]

Awesome build. What are the two silver rods connected to the diff?

those rods are parts of the Watts link setup. they mount from teh frame of the car to the snout of the differential. prabably not the best for the diff case, but we'll see what happens. I have a Fays2 setup if the current setup does not satisfy.

[WhiteG240]

Why did you decide to go with AMC Blue and not Pontiac Blue?

[705.0Merc]

Car looks really good. I vote for 18's all the way around and a mini tub job to fit 335/30/18 on the rear.....

[Takid455]

I wanted a blue that had some 'pop' to it. pontiac/ GM lemans blue is close to the AMC blue. the AMC seemed too look a little btter in my opinion.

I'm am leaning towards the 18's. I have looked at several cars with 18's and the look is drawing on me. it will also allow me to upgrade the brakes if needed.

[WS6]

You can do a Watts link with leaf springs? I thought you have to have coil springs for that? Where can I find info on using this with leaf springs?

Thanks

[Takid455]

A photo edit to see have the 18" forgeline WC3 wheels would look. look bretty good to me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/real18s-1.jpg

WS6 - info on Watt's link suspensions can be found in text books and suspension books.( herb adams is one) takes a little bit of searching. my set up is home built so I doubt that there is any info on it in particular , however the principles are the same. keep teh center of gravity low (i.e. piviot point) Search for sport truck suspensions, they use it frequently. also Fays2.net older mechanical enginering hand books such as marks have information on it. not much , but some.

[Takid455]

1/26/08
Today was quite productive. First I gave in and order a set of Wc3 forgelines w/ KDW2 tires from Frank at Prodigy. That bill is going to hurt, but they should arrive right around by birthday so that would make for a neat gift. then I had to massage the rear sway bar bushing brackets as the new prothane ones have the bolt holes slotted north-south and the the orignals are east - west. this caused the sway bar 'sleaves' to be narrower than the bar. After some filing of the bracket and indenting the bushing, all is well. the rear suspension is pretty much complete, just waiting for a sway bar link bracket from the powder coater to return as it did not come out right. After lunch, I decided it was time for the next big step; install the drive train. with many blankets covering the engine, trans, firewall and subframe; the entire setup slipped in with relative ease and only a small blemish caused by the oil pan which I can fix. luckily it is in a location that is semi hidden. with time still left and the excitment of a big step complete, thr Tri-Y-bal tube headers became bolted to the engine. I had these ceramic coated on the inside and outside by a local fellow when I bought them. It is stated that the internal coating does such a good job at keeping the heat within the coatiing's surface that one can hold the headers as the car is running. we'll see about that, any volunters??? since all was going well, I did some preliminary measuring for the driveshaft and exhaust system routing. I should have these finalized before next weekend. tomorrow's task will be to install the Kore3 hubs, cut teh wheel studs to length, remove the powder coating form the front sway bar so the sleeve can move (yes, powder coating is quite a bit thicker than paint in case you are wondering), install the caliper flex lines, and pedals if I get to it so I can finish the hydraulic brake and clutch systems. I will post some pictures soon.

[brownz]

what size wheel and tires did you go with? just got that same package from Frank and Lisa great ppl and what color?

[79T/Aman]

that will be another nice T/A with Pontiac power to boot

[Young Gun]

thought it looked cool

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Takid455]

what size wheel and tires did you go with? just got that same package from Frank and Lisa great ppl and what color?

18x8.5 front and 18 x 10 rear
same and tire as you, gun metal centers. from frank and lisa as well

I will probably change the rears to 9.5 wide as 10" w/ tire bulge is a tad tight


younggun - interesting concept

[Takid455]

I would like to point out that there have been some bumps along the way. Some of the aftermarket items, have requires 'massaging' in order to fit/ function properly. I also have the feeling that someone took a handful of misc hardware from my stash at the platers and simply threw it out as i am missing random pieces. I will contact them this week to see what happened. I did take a picture of what was sent so that will help me identify any know missing items. I know of a couple at the moment that are more than just ordinary hardware.

anyhow, as promised, here are some pics. its really starting to look like something. I noticed that the one header hangs lower than the other, I guess i'll have to even them out in the pipes as having ron (maker of the headers) fix then is non existent as he owes people headers for 3+ years ago.

engine outside
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1724-1.jpg

ready to be installed. yes, I attempted to do it in one shot. to my surprise, it went quite smoothly. we had a small blemish occur, but it can be touched up and it is in a hard place to see which is good. wonder if my little viper head will show once installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1731-1.jpg

success :-D :-D
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1732-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1734-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/PICT1739-1.jpg

[JACK_BURTON55]

Great progress! i am really liking the color of your motor since it matches mine:kewlpics: Great to see more birds on here

[Takid455]

New Forgeline WC3 wheels arrived. Frank at prodigy was great great to deal with in ordering these wheels. Went with 18x8.5 up front and 18x9.5 in the rear.This seems about it if I want to stay w/in the body lines and not stick out. Since the car doesn’t have all its sheet metal on, I decided to place them on another 78 to see how they would look. My car will be a little lower than this one sits. Although they are nice wheels and construction is top notch, I am not sure I care for them as I was hoping that the centers would be dished a bit more giving the wheel a deep look. I’m torn.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/PICT1752-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/PICT17541-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/PICT1754-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/PICT1759-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/PICT1762-1.jpg

[Smock67]

You can give them to me if your not happy with them those would look great on my 67 firebird.

Just kidding man i love your project i can't wait to see your next amount of progress on this/ i just spent the morning reading through this thread. Very detailed and interesting build keep it up

[brownz]

I think that the wheels will grow on you and i know what your saying about the lip but when you get them on the other car and it sitting lower you will like them.

[Johnny Blaze]

Looking good. Makes me want to get started on my 81 camaro.

[G2bird]

It's great to see someone taking so much care putting another bird back on the street. Project looks great and that AMC blue really pops next to that Gold. I like those wheels too. Just a few questions when you get time.
What offset on wheels?
Would 10" wides have rubbed on the stock 78?

[Takid455]

I have yet to have the car out in sunlight, but even indoors, that blue stands out with the gold back ground. I wanted to do that to emphasize the engine as that is the main attraction under the hood.

For you wheel questions, for whatever reasons, the wheels had some measurements that caused some fitment issues. The parties involved are doing a good job and rectifying the situation. The wheels are front 8.5 wide w/ 5.5 BS and rear 9.5 wide w/ 6.2 BS. I am having the rim shells revised so I will have 4” of ‘front spacing’ 4.5 front BS and 5.5 rear BS. Being that one of the issues is that center of the wheel is a smaller diameter than the hub, I could not fully attach the wheel to the car, I was however able to bolt the wheels up part way over the hub until it bound. Thus, I can provide some conclusions from what I have observed. Keep in mind that the stock 8” t/a wheels have a 0 offset. They actually measure 9” total width, so on initial measurement you get the impression that you have a 4.5” BS. The reason is the rim widens after the tire bead. When sizing new wheels stick with the 8” wide w/ 4” BS numbers. If you want to keep the wheel within the body lines, don’t make the front spacing, if you will, greater than 4”. You will need to trim the inner fenders back slightly so you don’t rub with wide tires when the suspension is at full compression. A stock style suspension and causal driving would probably never have an issue here, where lowered and/or aggressive driving would have a greater probability of tire fender rub. If one plans to jack the rear of t e car up and run tires outside of the body line, than a 10 or 12” wide rim would fit, but not legal in most states. For purpose of this discussion, assume tires will remain w/in the body lines.

Front
With 5.5 BS, no observed clearance issues. The closest point of contact is the sway bar. I had about ¾” free room at full lock. Add 1” to front spacing and a 9.5” wide wheel works, but very tight. Stick with a 9” w/ 5” BS and all will be good. This would be for 18” and some 17” wide wheels. Smaller wheels would yield a BS of 5 max as the tie rod end contacts the rim at those diameters as well as the upper ball joint on the smaller rims.

Rear
With 6.2” BS, and 285 tire, accounting for space between rim pad and axle flange, the tire were about ¼” from the leaf spring. Too tight for me. In hard cornering, the tire will flex and rub w/o a doubt. Add .75 to 9.5 and you get 10.25. so a 10” wheel with 285 tires w/ a bs of 6” will yield about .5” clearance between the leaf and the tire. Again, it will work, but be very tight.

In conclusion, “Can you fit a 10” wide rim in a 78?”, yes and no. first off, the seat belt bulge needs to be hammered flat, no way around it. Early 70’s cars don’t have that issue. If you don’t mind some rub on hard cornering and are willing trim the inner fender lip a little, sure. A 295 tire will have less clearance. I highly doubt a 305 will work w/o major modification or mini tub.

[G2bird]

Thanks for the info. I really like the way the 18's look and want to run a staggard width setup. As wheels for my 76 will be the next major purchase after ditching the rear air shocks ( not sure what made anyone think that was a good idea) and replacing all the worn out bushings, your tips and time are most appreciated.

[Takid455]

5/08
Been quite busy working on some designs for the car as well as sucking it up and ordering a bunch of AN fittings and hoses for the power steering, fuel and oil systems. What a PITA choosing what ends and fitting you need. And then once you start, you realize you need more. I went with all endura or nickel finish as the color is very similar amongst all the manufactures and it doesn’t show scratches as much as the red and blue fittings. I picked up some C4 corvette wheels for rollers so I don’t ruin the good wheels. C4 wheels don’t fit a second gen w/o some serious spacers. I rigged up a set of old axles I had laying around to use with these wheels. The car will never be driven on these so as long as they don’t fall off or rub on the car, that is all that matters. I had been contemplating applying the Lizard Skin sound deadener over the LS heat coating. Instead of letting it sit, I opted to spray it on. We’ll see how well it works later. Now for the BIG news…..New Forgeline WC3 wheels that actually fit. YEA. J . there was an issue with the first set I ordered which were sent back ( GM has 2 hub diameters, 70.3mm and 70.5mm. late second gen t/a’s as far as I am aware have the larger hubs) and I order these though local BMW race shop and worked w/ forgeline to make sure everything is up to snuff. The wheels are 18 x 9 up front w/ 5.4” BS and 18x9.5 rear w/ 5.5” BS. The tires are toyo T1R 255/40 front and 285/35 rear to have all the tires at 26” tall. 295 in the rear would work, but be tight and could probably do 275 up front. I have to work something out for the front center caps. I may be able t o remove enough material from the spindle and crush the grease cap to allow the forgeline caps to fit. I'll get to that after I finish the plumbing and send the car off to the painter as I can use a old stock unit for measure. Here are some pictures of the car so far:

Cheap labor (sushi dinner) installing sound deadener
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/PICT1791-1.jpg

Newly painted cowl to match interior
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/PICT3317-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/PICT3318-1.jpg

Use some rustoleum semi gloss on the A/C boxes to give them a better look. The plain fiberglass didn’t blend well with the rest of the engine bay. You can still see the fibers through the paint which I feel adds a nice touch. If you use a ‘high solids’ paint, it will not be translucent and you wont see the fibers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/PICT3319-1.jpg

AND NOW……WHEELS…
These look awesome
Nice dish/ lip to them as well compared to the first set.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/ForgelineWC3pt21-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/ForgelineWC3pt27-1.jpg

rear
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/ForgelineWC3pt210-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/ForgelineWC3pt212-1.jpg

front
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/ForgelineWC3pt24-1.jpg

[Code Red]

looking goog

[GM_muscle]

the bird is comimg along great.

[WS6]

very nice!

[ixfn]

The project looks great, and I really like the touch of plated fasteners! Did you make your sway bar end links? I haven't seen a setup quite like that before...

[Takid455]

thanks for the complemets. the sway bar end links are a 'stock' items when they were made. these are the Herd Adams (VSE) / Rancho sway bars that you could have gotten back in the day. Saddly, they are no longer made.

[Takid455]

After a few design changes, I have come up with a cross member for 75-81 f-bodys to support the T56 transmission. This is how the prototype looks installed. Working with friends of the trade, I was able to construct one for quite a bit les than machine shops which is understandable. Each prototype would be about $850 if I had production shop do one off pieces. This price goes down dramatically as quantity increases. The engine retains its 3 degree rearward pitch as well as the factory ¾” offset centerline to the passenger’s side of the car. Other advances in construction include the 3.5” aluminum driveshaft and working with RARE to find a solutions to the muffler-Watts links interference issue. Paul and I have settled on a solution and are waiting to here back from Spintech. Since I will going away during the middle of June to Southern California and TJ (to see a donkey show), I figured it would be wise to have the car painted during that time to keep a forward momentum. I have begun wet sanding the body with 320, 400 then 600. I enjoy mechanical and fabrication work a lot more than body work. Hopefully I can finish the body before I leave, we’ll see what happens.

Parts w/ guide coat waiting to be wet sanded
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/PICT3382-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/wetsanding2-1.jpg

wet sanding
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/wetsanding1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/wetsanding-1.jpg

cross member and portions of d-shaft
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/t56xmember12-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/t56xmember7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/t56xmember5-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Looks good ! keep the updates comming
Wayne

[wedgehead]

updates? My son and I are waiting!!!!!!

[Takid455]

Let blow the dust of this guy. (a choo) “A Jew? Here? “ “No, No, I said Achoo, son of Asneeze” – Robin Hood - men in tights. What a funny movie

Back to reality. This project was put on hold to get the 74 SD ready for the nats which turned out to be a bigger mess than expected (don’t they all) so then my attention turned to my first T/A, a 79 black & gold that I completed 8 yrs of I’ll-get-to-it-laters, detailing and installation of a highway friendly rear to take to the nats. I took some time to enjoy what was left of the summer and went back to working on the 78.

The body, doors and one fender are all wet sanded to 600 grit while the other fender and rubber / plastic body bolt-ons will be attended to shortly when I feel like wet sanding again. I can only do some much wet sanding before I need to do something that I can see instant accomplishment. I’m more mechanical (function) than form (body work).

Body parts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1644-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT16451-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1649-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT16432-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1652-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1651-1.jpg

I then turned my attention to the exhaust system. After some trial and error cutting and fitting along with locating an appropriate location for the X-pipe and mufflers, I have completed the system to the rear of the mufflers. I will need to have some custom fabricated tubes to allow clearance for the Watt’s Link and custom tail pipes to properly tuck the 3” splitters behind the ¼’s. The RARE system’s tail pipes are gears towards 70-74 style straight tips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1647-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1643-1.jpg

Whew, just enough room
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT16391-1.jpg

I’ll take the car to the shop that does the custom exhaust work at a later date. I had the fellow stop by and look at the dilemma so he can brainstorm in the meantime.

The next task I wanted to complete was all the plumbing on the car. The brake, fuel, powersteering / hydroboost, oil and A/C lines. I cleaned out the oil R12 oil out of the evaporator, detailed the cover and associated items. I also cleaned the heater core box as well. I sprayed that with SEM trim black for that dull plastic look. I had to trim the case by the blower motor to clear the firewall braces. When the car is lowered, these will rise slightly, but I wanted the extra clearance. I am coming to the point of assembly that I need to have as much together as possible to I know when to run the plumbing and other non stock items.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1621-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1622-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1631-1.jpg

[Takid455]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1629-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1632-1.jpg

The fuel and brake lines were mocked with coat hangers to get an approximate routing idea. All finished lines are stainless steel to prevent corrosion.
Mock
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/09/Mockbrakelines2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/Mockbrakelines3-1.jpg

El fin.
Fuel
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1626-1.jpg

Brake. I mounted the bias/ prop valve under the HB unit on the body to wheel well bracket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1655-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/PICT1658-1.jpg

Front to rear
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/1008framefittings6-1.jpg

Frame in the way? No problem
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/1008framefittings3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/1008framefittings4-1.jpg

There is enough room for full articulation of the leaf spring. Hope this works.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/1008framefittings2-1.jpg

I ran out of 3/16 tubing, so, I’ll wait till the next parts order to obtain some. I need 40”.. one of the local shops had a 36” piece. Arrg. Murphy’s law in full effect. I attempted to route the line differently, but could not get the length under 36”. Its just the line from the rear flex line to the right side caliper. All other lines are done. I am going to wait to finish the rear fuel lines until I get the engine area done, the in tank fuel pump done and the car on the lift. Its too cramped back there to efficiently work. I redesigned the oil and P/S systems, so I need to get different fittings. More pics to come.

[Motown 454]

Everything looks nice and neat. Keep us updated.

[Takid455]

Today I played with the oil system. after I installed the wiper motor (pulse system is big), I found that the oil accumulator will not fit on the firewall as planed. I will see if I can mount it somewhere else. maybe on the wheel well. then again, I may can the whole external shebang and run the stock housing w/ filter and install an oil temp gauge for now. this way I will be able to see if I really need a cooler. Being there is nothing other than the A/C system on this side of the engine bay, it could be installed at a latter date and not have to worry about redesigning other features. next step is p/s lines and brake cooling ducts.

[cdoggy81]

Bad A$$!!! :)

[81 trans-am]

Were did you get that tranny crossmember. Car looks awesome
keep the pics coming

[Takid455]

the cross member is one that I designed using those fancy computer things. It is specifically designed to for 75-81 f-bodies. I was going to produce them but I was unable to get enough confirmed orders. If I got 10 orders they would be roughly 300 each including hardware and instructions. production cost is not cheap nor are materials. Any less, the cost would be higher. The one on my car is the prototype. the produced member would be all bends and not have the square corners by the trans. the computer image shows the actual design. Here is the link
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41179


Project
I may have found a solution to the oiling system. More than likely, I will be using the stock filter housing and just the accusump. I asked a few racers that I know about oil cooling an they all said unless the oil gets above 320 deg, don't worry about it. if this was a high revving engine, that would be a different story. I'll install a temp gauge to monitor it and add it later if it is nec. I picked up a GM II style P/S pump. I'd like to use that instead of the orginal GM monstrosity.

[10Seconds]

This one ever get finished? I would love to see more pics.

[1971CHEVELLE]

Looking good man

[gmcdermit1]

Awseome car, keep up the good work. It's a great inspiration.

[Takid455]

For awhile I had been focusing on my 74 T/A, http://www.78ta.com/smf/index.php?topic=16668.0,
work has not stopped completely on this guy. With the 74 SD on its feet and doing well, its time to put this guy back on the burner. Even though the 74 was the front runner, I managed to accomplish some things on this fellow.

A/C & brake/power steering hoses are all made and installed and a fuel sending unit from a 4th gen bird was grafted into the stock gas tank. all the fuel and brake line plumbing is complete as with the ebrake system. I am currently laying out the wiring to accommodate current and future plans. once he wiring is installed, it will be time to fire the engine for the first time which should be around the corner. I had the body all wet sanded to 600 grit, but due to sitting , I will do it again to remove and particles and what not that have settled on the body. Once the sanding is done and the engine fires, off to paint we go. I may add a custom hood latching assy and shocks to it though. we'll see.

Right now, I'm trying to make my own fuse/ relay box as no seems to make one with desired number of relay recepticals. I am using one from a 90's F 150 to experiment. Since wiring and electrical is not one of my string points, I;m sure to take my time with it. Another thing I am shooting for is to have all the wiring neat and factory like. I can't stand cars that have wiring rivaling Medusa's hair. I have a bunch of Weather pack and Metri pack connectors on order along with additional relay recepticals and terminals.

Also working on wiring a dual fan system to have both high and low speeds. Yelcamino has provided so helpful information and may go that route using Spal's twin fan controller.

I need to find a civil and neat way/ location to place the EFI computer, the O2 computer, Cable X and the fan controller. there is not too much realestate behind the dash and the area behind the console is consumed by the 8 track.

In other news, this guy got some print in the 8/09 issue of Popular Hot Rodding. A first for the car and myself included. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/icon_biggrin-2.gif
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/0908phr_109_reader_projects/chevy_pickup.html

Maybe combustion isn't too far away https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/icon_eek-1.gif....stay tuned.

[Takid455]

Laid out the wiring and ordered a bunch of weather pack connectors, relay holders and other what nots. Also went with a spal fan control module as recommended by a few members for dual fans. 6 speed connectors came w/ wiring colors requested to match to the stock wiring where applicable. I think I most of what I need to get the bulk done. Also waiting for a batch of parts from the powdercoater.

I order a 22 port weatherpack style bulkhead connector that is rather large for my taste. I'll keep looking for the Cannon connector I need to route the EFI harness through the firewall.

[Takid455]

After 17 years of combustionless life, fuel, air & heat have once again been successfully mixed in the cylinders as approx 5 PM this evening. All seems strong and very healthy. Running just headers, the exhaust note is felt in the stomach. Didn't run it too long as the cooling system is dry.

After some waiting for parts, deciding and ordering parts, defeating some walls & hurdles build by life, and other what nots, I have jumped on this fellow once again. Fuel system is complete with 4th gen F-body fuel pump & sender integrated into stock 2nd gen tank. the bulk of the electrical system is completed or at least laid out. I still need to setup the elec fan units and make the relay box for current components and future expansion. Battery is located in the trunk and I was able to feed the 1/0 cable through the frame for a clean look. I found an asphalt sheathing used on antique autos that slid over the cable to prevent wear and corrosion even though the cable has a fairly thick rubber insulation already. Once all the electrical components are inplace and wiring laid, I will tidy up the wiring for a clean look. pics are coming.

[BonzoHansen]

w00t

[Chicken Louie]

Awesome!!!

[John Wright]

Congrats!

[MonzaRacer]

Takid455, if you will let me suggest, since your cooling system is dry think about using Evans Cooling products www.evanscooling.com.
Its nearly permanent and it requires abosolutley NO cooling system pressure to cool.
Boiling point is 375 and at least -40deg F so if you ran 2-4 lb cap boiling point would be well over 400deg F.
No corrosion to deal with as it goes in pure and for the record, I have sold this stuff to racers and restorers and the absolutely love it.
Yes NPG + is expensive but if you have a large tube aluminum rad then your setup to run it. And after seeing a guy dragrace 5 rounds back to back with broken water pump and never over heat and block temp wasnt over 225deg! I was very impressed as it was a .060" hot running 400 sbc and it always ran hot for him before.
Never found the water pump broke till the last of 4 round robin races as they were trying to beat bad weather. he had maybe 15 minutes of off time for final(after 5 rounds) he asked me if it was safe and the blocks hottest spot was 225 so we ran it(besides he was going World block after season, we just didnt want to hurt heads or pistons. That engine came apart looking normal.
Great looking build, wish I had time to put my Monza and Caprice up and detail underneath.

[aronhk_md]

updates Larry?

[dusterbd13]

this is one of the cars that has inspired my s10. thaks, and i look forward to seeing updates when life lets you back into the shop.

[Takid455]

Glad to see this inspired your build, I really am. thanks

As for updates... not much in past few months as I have been busy with other things as well as life's lemons still.

HOWEVER...since the last post some progress in the electrical department has been made and is almost done. with the help of a fellow member who pointed me in the source to obtain certain electrical connectors, I have integrated the ECM and o2 computers together along with build a relay box and add a few circuits to the stock harness to retain the factory look. The relay box was a mild adventure to find one that suited my needs. I needed 6 relayed and some fuses and finally found that the 93-97 F body engine relay box is a perfect fit. comes compact w/ 8 relays and 12 fuses. great for now and the future for expansion.

just have to finish installing the terminals and wires into the relay box and T56 wiring.

other circuits completed/ made are :
twin spal fans w/ spal module
triple stage headlight system (low, high on outers and the 3rd for the inners which are super bright and have a far beam projection)
in tank fuel pump
A/C, engine, ect

A big peeve of mine is seeing wires haphazardly placed in the engine bay. I have done my best to hide where possible and keep wiring 'highway' condensed and centrally located as possible. I'll post some pics later.

the past weeks have been doing engine swaps on others cars for $$ and putting a 78 t/a on the road so I can sell it and have some funds for this big guy.

I am getting close, just need some time and less lemons

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice looking build. I have also utilized a 93-97 F-body Relay Box. I used mine for the relay system that I used to control my dual cooling fans and I liked the idea of using the extra fuses for future projects. (Great minds Think alike) Nice build. Can't wait for more pictures.

Ryan

[Takid455]

Got another 78 T/A I was resurrecting on its feet and out the door. Time for this fellow to get some lovin'. While the original electrical system functioned, it wasn't pretty. It didn't flow well either. I also wanted to add some circuits & simplify some circuits as well. Also wanted to have relays. Something present in 1978, but not widely used like todays cars.

Some Circuits I added/ altered:
-In-tank fuel pump from 4th gen and 14 GA wire from pump to relay
-integrate O2 ECU into Projection 4 ECU
-Add triple stage lighting system. not sure if I will like it, we'll see.
[outer lamps have high and low, stage 1 & 2. inner lamps are super high (100 W H1) , stage 3)] each high has its own relay and switch. Used a 79-81 column activated switch for one and the stock floor mounted switch for the other.
-Spal dual electric fans w/ module
-Mallory Unilight dist and E-coil
- relocate all A/C relays and electrics to pass side of evaporator box.

A big issue I had was where to affix the relay box, coil and modules so they would not look cluttered, yet be accessible. For now, I decided not use the stock cruse vacuum unit. may relocated or find a better solution in the future. Stock electronics and controls are still on car and not in the way. the driver's firewall under the fender provided a nice place for the 93-97 f body relay box and fan controls.

I liked this box as it is simple, compact and has room to grow w/o have excess. thanks to forum member TnBlkC230WZ, I was able to locate the proper terminals for the box as well as other components in my system. Mouser.com has what you need, you just need to know what it is you need. I modified the stock late model f-body relay box bracket to suit my needs and locate the box some the fuses and relays would be accessible w/ the fender on the car. I can even affix a mini Mag light behind the box and the firewall if needed. or a place to 'stash' stuff'.:idea: the fan modules can be accessed from the top w/ the fender installed. its tight , but will work.

Backing up a little, I had gotten the car to run and a roughly laid out wiring harness and jumper cables to test the circuits. I took that down and cleaned the rats nest up and tried to hide it as much as possible. Ordered some wire braid from painless and order more from their supplier which is 12 minutes from my house. buy direct and $ave. :). wirecare.com is the retail outlet. good stuff.

with the newly critiqued wiring and component installation, it was time to see if all systems still functioned. Sure enough, all is well. Took the stock HEI out and put in the unilight and hooded up the coil and receive no spark...booo:doh:

I noticed the E-coil getting warm so I unplugged it w/ the batter to let it cool and tried again. no spark. after some test, I am looking at what could be a faulty module. this unit I bought used from a friend for 40 so I am am still ahead of the game if it is bad. It has the E-spark in it . may replace w/ basic unilight if it test bad.

need to beatify teh T56 harness and wire the Cable X to complete the electrical system for now.

I have to add the braid to the wires yet

Some pictures of the relay box area.

93-97 F body box
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring5-1.jpg

starting some wiring
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring6-1.jpg

test fitting on bracket
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring1-1.jpg

some wiring
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring7-1.jpg

connecting box to body wiring
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring10-1.jpg

El fin
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/Relayboxareawiring13Copy-1.jpg

not sure what to do w/ the extra fan wires. they are not used or optional. I'll prob cut them and cap them. the positive terminal will get a protective cap to prevent shorts.

I am also drafting a new wiring diagram from the car as a bunch has changed. using Autocad and scanned original diagrams. I will have a completely digital wiring diagram for this car when I am done. will keep it w/ the car for future reference. I tried to keep the wire colors meaning full such as: red - batter direct, yellow - battery hot after fuse, orange - ign hot..ect...

[Takid455]

After much crimping, splicing and cutting;, I can say I am happy with the wiring and can scratch it off the list. Tried hiding the wires that best I could while keeping it functional. The whole engine harness can be easily removed from the car if needed. T56 and Cable X wiring harness is done san obtaining a 12 to 5 V voltage reducer to run the Viper VSS. Looking at the left-overs, I have good amount of spares. Being terminals and connectors are relatively inexpensive, I would rather order extra than need 1 or 2 at the end of the project. I left the wiper and cruise control wiring in stock state as I am not sure if I will use the cruise and/ or install a newer wiper motor.

Next on the list is finish wet sanding at 400 and 600 grit and off to the body shop for paint. Have a few other little tid bits I’ll complete as well.

Pictures of Finished Wiring before and after looming (is that a word??)
Note: Hoses and alt are mock ups.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/EngineWiring4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/EngineWiring3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/EngineWiring21-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/EngineWiring11-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/EngineWiring12-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/EngineWiring9-1.jpg

[John Wright]

Wiring looks good.

[Takid455]

Finished wet sanding the entire body and all the flexible parts. Did 3 sandings at 320, 400 and 600 (body only) checking for lows and highs in each step. The parts really look very smooth. I did the body up to 600 when we were planning on using one brand of sealer (next step), but we found a different brand that flows so nice, you only need to go to 400 grit. the sealer will be applied next and that is wet sanded to 600. The body shop is applying the sealer and taking it home from here. They will apply the color along with the clear and perform all necessary sanding and buffing task.

Been a long time coming, but I am excited to get this in color. I need to install the interior as the box that hold the interior parts is falling apart. While the bolt on parts are at the shop now, the car or body will go over next week as I have a couple of quick things wrap up. The parts will be shot tomorrow and allowed to bake and dry over the holiday weekend.

[parsonsj]

Sweet project!

jp

[Takid455]

Waiting to be sanded w/ 320
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/PICT0372-1.jpg

Blocked w/ 320 and guided coated for 400 grit
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded320grit620101-1.jpg

Finished 400 grit sanding. Seeing all the minute highs and lows always amazes me when doing the fine sandings

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded400grit620101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded400grit620104-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded400grit620105-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded400grit620101-1.jpg

Even factory fiberglass/ ABS parts have their issues.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded400grit620108-1.jpg

Parts in sealer waiting to be wet sanded with 600 at body shop. They look pretty straight, but I’m sure there are some minor highs and lows hiding. In most cases, it is hard to tell just by rubbing your hand over the area. The high and lows can be seen by wetting the surface w/ prep solvent and watching the reflection of a florescent light at see if it bends or distorts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsandedandsealed620101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsandedandsealed620102-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsandedandsealed620106-1.jpg

[srh3trinity]

What did you decide on your final color scheme?

[Takid455]

I am going with all gold with air brushed bird and lettering for now. all trim moldings will be semi gloss black and I am working on a cover to black out the tail lights. (tinted plexiglass) If it looks good, I'll keep it. I couldn't get the 2 tone gold and black to look right. always looked high relative to the ground. I played with a root beer color which didn't look too bad. I will be adding a very subtle graffic of some undecided shape to the side of the car to break up the solid color. I have acquired all three factory tinted t tops (gold, silver/ mirror and smoke) to change things up every now and then.

[LeighP]

Looking good.....can't wait to see it in colour.

[NOT A TA]

Gonna be good to see it in color! TA's have sooo many parts to paint!

[Takid455]

You dont realize the amount of color parts there are until you start the fine prep work. It seems never ending.


I did funny and forgot the most important parts of the body...the shaker. Have a few in storage, but never took one out and prepped it. that will be done ASAP.
Wet sanded bolt ons. factory parts are crap as far as evenness is concerned. Then again, it was the 70's.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/wetsanded400grit1-1.jpg

Some more pictures of parts in sealer. Freshly baked.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealed76101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealed761010-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealed76109-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealed76106-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealed76105-1.jpg

Junk wheels are back on the car and I will be going over t eh body once more quickly to freshen up the surfaces. Been 1.5yrs since I sanded it to 600 grit. All interior wiring and A/C boxes have been removed.

[John Wright]

Feels good to get a few parts all one color...even if it is just primer/sealer.

Looks like you are getting on down towards the final stages of getting that baby in paint.

[aronhk_md]

Looking forward to seeing it progress...mine is still so far from even THINKING paint...lol. Glad you decided on leaving the two tone paint scheme behind. It never did look right (to me). Mine is going to end up a coppery color. House of Kolors Tangerine.

[cdoggy81]

" Mine is going to end up a coppery color. House of Kolors Tangerine."
I remember a LONG time ago I saw a 70 TA in HPP mag that was orange & thought it looked really sharp!

[Takid455]

I debated doing a copper tangerine color. Have a few photos of 2nd gens in those colors. Depending on how it is applied, they do look sharp. HOK would be my choice although SEM has a nice selection now. former chemist from HOK works at SEM.

[Takid455]

Time has come for this fella to do some time in the paint jail. The painter and I went over the car and discussed the following steps and some little things to address. Like the parts, the car will be scuffed with 400 grit then sprayed with Dupont 7740S sealer. The sealer will be wet sanded with 400 grit to smooth any imperfections if any and then its color time. When I started this project, we were going to sand with 600 grit, consequently with chemical engineering improvements, this sealer has a ‘healing’ property that actually fills in sanding marks as it cures. Thus saving lots of time and money. So far, all the parts that I sanded and they sealed have needed only a quick blocking. I guess I am getting better at this body work art. I still prefer to fabricate or mechanically build something than wet sand. Paint should be on the car within the next 2 weeks and I should have it back mid august. No rush on my end as it wont be done for any shows or events this year. Allows time for sorting all the bugs out. I have a list of things that I can do while the car is in paint jail.

After power washing the body to clean off sanding residue
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/washedandwaitingtolvforpaint1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/washedandwaitingtolvforpaint3-1.jpg

Surrounded 1970 german things (Bug and 911).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/washedandwaitingtolvforpaint7-1.jpg

Leaving for Paint Jail
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/leavingforpaintjail716103-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/leavingforpaintjail716104-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/leavingforpaintjail716105-1.jpg

At Paint Jail (literally around the block from the shop)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/leavingforpaintjail716105-1.jpg

Sealed parts wet sanded w/ 400 grit and awaiting color. They look very straight and feel smoother than a baby’s derriere. Hard to tell in the pictures. I am pleased so far.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealerbeingwetsandedw400-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealedandwetsandedw400gritdupont4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealedandwetsandedw400gritdupont774-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealedandwetsandedw400gritdupont1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealedandwetsandedw400gritdupont2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/sealedandwetsandedw400gritdupont3-1.jpg

[chevyboy]

lookin good

[CruizinKev]

yeah very nice! :twothumbs

[TBART70]

fantastic job, let me know when you want to fix my mess!!

[Doug1]

Looking GOOD!

[Takid455]

Thanks for the comps. Been a long time coming. what started as a 'just put it together' as slowly morphed in to a Prom Queen. I did have it in the planning, just not at this time. I guess Phases 1 2 and 3 blended a little. Happens. I'll update as work progresses.



fantastic job, let me know when you want to fix my mess!!
When your ready, send me a PM. I'll take care of it and put your guy back on the road. I recall you are only a few towns over??.

Doug1 - been watching your build, hope it comes out well.

[Doug1]

Doug1 - been watching your build, hope it comes out well.

Thanks! It has its own ups and downs. I have upscaled it a bunch from the intial plan. Frank is so busy and I keep adding stuff. He is being cool enough to call in some favors to help me get it done sooner than the norm. I know I have been driving him crazy with it.

I'm pretty good with motors and going in a straight line. All this cornering is new to me. LOL

Your car is going to be one sweet machine! I love seeing the Pontiac 2nd Gens getting this kind of work.

[TBART70]

Not far at all, been checking up on you on occasion. I'm seriously looking for someone to get this done. I'll let you know.

[GM_muscle]

looks good get this thing in color.

[Takid455]

With the body in sealer and a few small things resolved, its time for a quick blocking and off to paint. I am not sure how I like the bedliner in the trunk yet. I doesn’t look to bad and will dampen the amount of sound that coming into the car. I have a full carpet for the trunk anyhow, so this will be covered. No need to worry about spills or anything damaging the trunk floor with this stuff.

I have designed a fan shroud to hold the radiator and the twin fans. Once I am done with the drafting, it will be sent to get CNC cut and bent to shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/bedlinerintrunk722101-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/bedlinerintrunk72210-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/bodyinsealer722105-1.jpg

Smooth and straight
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/bodyinsealer722109-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/bodyinsealer722108-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/bodyinsealer722107-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

what kind of bedliner did you use?

[Takid455]

Herculiner. I know a few cars that have this on the undersides and trunks. All have had positive results with it. This seems to becoming more frequently used in recent years. Its extremely tough and doubles as a sound deadener.

[Doug1]

Any more updates?

[Takid455]

in paint jail still. not progress so far. I am working with the air brusher for the graffics and close o pulling the trigger on the new interior as opposed to using the stock seats.

[Doug1]

in paint jail still. not progress so far. I am working with the air brusher for the graffics and close o pulling the trigger on the new interior as opposed to using the stock seats.

I can feel your pain. I have 3 2nd gen TAs in paint jail at the same time. 2 have been there since Dec. The painter has had some very bad luck this year so I have been patient. Bad news is that I found out he tends to take the 1/2 down payment and take forever anyway. That is not what I heard before I signed up.

I am also using someone to airbrush the graphics on 2 of them. I'd be curious to see what you are doing. Mine are blue instead of black though.

[Takid455]

The time is not too much of a concern as it allows me to utilized the space it took up to accomplish other projects. Not sure what the hold up is though. Perhaps they are waiting for me to finish one of their cars on the mechanical end. I'll have it done today. the airbrushing will be based on stock graffics with some refinements. Still working on that.

One of the first things I will do when I get it back is have the leafs dearched. cant stand jacked up rear look.

[fbody_mike]

Perhaps they are waiting for me to finish one of their cars on the mechanical end. I'll have it done today.


LOL, I would not give my son a new toy if I was waiting for him to clean his room. If this is the case it is a smart move by the body guys.



Loving this build. Can not wait for the next set of pictures/updates. :cheers:

[Takid455]

well...I finished up this Porsche for them w/ a bad steering rack amongst other things and my car is scheduled for paint after the holiday. amazing, isn't it !!! The shop redid the front and rear bumpers as the primer/ sealer cracked due to insufficient flex additive. they picked up the tab so its all good.

Got to see a 69 chevelle SS427 that had a customized rear half by a tree. a big ouch.

[cdoggy81]

How is she progressing?

[Takid455]

All parts , and 2nd gens have alot of them, have been sealed and wet sanded to 400 grit. This sealer is said to be self healing, meaning it flows as you sand it. Interesting stuff. Def a time saver. Paint booth has fresh filters for this guy. Last few jobs had been heavy primer so it was time for a change anyway. After a few hours of masking, I is time for paint. This color is more of an outside color as it benefits from the reflection of the sun. Metal Halide and Sodium bulbs don’t do much for it. Gold laid down very flat. Needed 4 coats to obtain sufficient coverage. 3 coats of clear followed. Reflects and shines nice now. Next step will be to assemble the car and wet sand the clear with 1000, 1500 and then buff. May do a 2000 grit sanding if needed. Will let it sit for a few weeks before I begin sanding. I will have the air brush artist come and do the bird and lettering. In the mean time. The art work will then be covered with clear.

Car should look nice with the satin black trim installed and gun metal rims.

My old camera doesn’t care to take good photos anymore. Colors don’t come out too well. These will have to do for now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0384-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0383-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0394-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0405-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0406-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0391-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0398-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0397-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0387-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/PICT0386-1.jpg

[White05GT]

Looks awesome! Love the color.

[mc84_zz4]

Congratulations are in order!! you have been paroled from paint jail...
:twothumbs:

[monteboy84]

Those cars look phenomenal in gold, yours is looking great!

-matt

[Jon69RagTop]

Is there any other car that can look this good in GOLD?

Absolutely going to be a gorgeous car IMO.

Good Luck.

[John Wright]

I love the smell of fresh paint in the mornings......congrats!

[Takid455]

thanks for the comps.
Gold is a tough color. it can go gaudy real quick. I debated for excessive amounts of time on color and then going through volume and looking at 1000's of pictures and cars until I narrowed it down to about 3 and picked this one.

Why gold, car was originally solar gold and a I have a black, blue and a white T/A already. wanted to add some color to the diet. Mainly I always like the way the western sunset reflects on black cars. I thought it would be cool to have the car look like that all the time. we'll see...

[Takid455]

It is rather amazing how ‘rough’ clear lays. While it look nice, there is room for improvement. It is just a matter of what one is willing to accept as a finished product. Been enjoying the fun of wet sanding the clear for around 30 hours so far. I have the body, trunk lid, hinge cover, and doors done. I start with 1000 grit and see how ‘rough’ it is afterwards. If it is rough, I go to 800 then back to 1000, go over that with 1500 and then finish with 2000. It is better to go to a courser grit than to press hard with a finer grit. 1500 will buff out, but with some effort. The 2000 allows for easier buffing. You can actually see the color increase in depth the finer you go. The doors have been buffed as well an they look very nice and deep. Tough to do on a metallic color.

Body and parts done up to 2000 grit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/wetsandingclearto2000grit8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/wetsandingclearto2000grit5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/sandedto2000grit10268-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/sandedto2000grit10261-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/sandedto2000grit10264-1.jpg

Buffed door
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/Buffeddoor10252-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/Buffeddoor10254-1.jpg

[WS6]

Looks fantastic! Congrats on having color on it finally.

[LeighP]

Can't believe the colour change in different light angles...awesome choice!

[TBART70]

Hi Larry,

I found the part number for the Aldans, PAS-654-400, I have a few people interested in the chassis so we'll see what happens.

How is the car coming? Clean out you PM box

Tom

[Takid455]

Body, bumpers and some small parts are buffed. Some of the smalls had to be resprayed, but all good now. Waiting for the air brush artist to get his design together so I can finish the hood & fenders. Paint has an incredible shine and depth to it considering the color. cleaning will start next week. That ought to be fun. Hopefully I may begin assembly.

Interior is in the works, I will have to redye the interior again to match. The original Camel Tan does not jive well with this color. May even wrap that plastics in leather. I’d use distressed pieces I have laying around than cover nice originals.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed1131110-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113111-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113112-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113114-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113115-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113113-1.jpg

I see a 1st gen
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113116-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/Buffed113119-1.jpg

[LeighP]

Very nice...can't wait to see it all together.

[WS6]

x2 keep us updated please

[boostin05blacksti]

Love the color. Looks great. Would you be instrested in helping me plumb my brake lines when the time comes? You did an awsome job on yours love how clean it looks. Keep up the good work can wait to see it all done.

[Doug1]

Will you clear over the work the air brush artist does?

[Takid455]

Stay tuned. Next week will clean the inside and driveline from all shop debris and begin installation of dash wiring, A/C items and doors. Expecting to move at a decent pace forgoing any curveballs.

Boostin - I could do your plumbing. PM me when you are ready.

Doug - Art work will be cleared. This not only protects it, but gives it a deep appearance.

[Takid455]

Moving along on assembly. Trunk lid and doors are installed and aligned. Spending extra time during the earlier body work stages paid off as both doors were aligned and installed in less than 1 hour. Use the guide holes I drilled to assist and confirm. Dissembled, cleaned, painted and polished the tail lights. Most of the electrical is installed sans the main interior harness which attaches to the dash. Not sure if I’ll run speakers in the doors, so I ran wiring to the doors just incase. Began installation of the window mechanisms. All tracks and motors were cleaned and lubed. New door lock actuators will be installed along with new glass. Leaning towards the smoke tint glass vs the green tint. Just need to see if I can get the rear window tinted to match. Picked up key fob door and trunk remote popper. That will get wired once the mechanicals are done as I have some minor electrical work to finish anyway.

Debating on which T top weather stripping to use. The original GM are in decent condition and fit well, but show their age in some areas. I know there from the late 80’s vintage. Tried a set of Metro seals and while the look nice, fit is so-so. Being that is not critical at the moment, I’ll work with them before gluing them.

Working on adapting a 3rd gen steering column and a modern wiper motor. The wiper motor will fit w/ an adaptor plate, however, getting the variable speeds to work with the stock switch is an issue w/ adding a resistor block. I am hoping the 3rd gen switch resistances are favorable to the new motor. Working with an old model kit to design the interior color scheme. Seats will be ordered soon. I want to retain a tan interior, but will most likely have some black accents to mesh with the exterior color. The stock Camel tan looks like puke against the Goldmine Pearl.

Next on the list:
1) finish installing window mechanisms, power locks and door moldings
2) Install new leaf springs. Original ones arched too much during sitting uninstalled and powdercoating. New ones have a stiffer spring rate to match the front springs and overall suspension design.
3) Remove ‘roller’ wheels and install good wheels along with brakes.
Plan to have this done this week.
4) Get airbrush artist to finish up design and paint bird and lettering. Cant hang fenders, hood or rear spoiler until that is done. I like his work and hate to change artist. Luckily no money has been spent. He gets paid once it is finished.

Lights
Before and after blasting
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/taillightresto1-1.jpg

Painted & polished
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/taillightresto4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/taillightresto8-1.jpg

Staring to look like a car
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/trunkinstalled1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/doorsinstalled4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/doorsinstalled6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/doorsinstalled1-1.jpg

Hinges do not actually reveal any grey sealer, but the camera picks it up. Most likely, while there is color there, it is thin and the characteristics of HOK paints. It will be touched up if needed before the fenders are installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/doorsinstalled2-1.jpg

[TBART70]

Sweet!

[Takid455]

Tom
Did you find the trans code?
Will start with TCET...

[TBART70]

Tom
Did you find the trans code?
Will start with TCET...

I thought I had it sold so I didn't look yet.

[PonchoJohn]

What kind of shaker is that? It looks like an oversized 70-76 style... I know you have a 78, so I'm curious.

[Takid455]

Shaker is the early 73-76 style (70-72 were functional, different base) . I just happen to like the appearance better. The original for the car in on top of the display cabinet in the living room. :)

[PonchoJohn]

Cool- I thought so. Is it a stock shaker, or has it been enlarged?
Maybe it's just the paint, but it looks "larger" some how.
Looking sweet- Keep it up!

[Takid455]

Shaker is stock sans the front being opened and cleaned.

Assembled the door internals sans glass as that is coming. Going with a nice smoke tint as opposed to the stock green tint. Accomplished a bunch of little odds and ends and man do they take up time. Even more so when new parts are ‘direct fit’. Old leafs (Rancho Challenger GT III) were replaces w/ Comp leafs from Pro Touring Fbody. Not only had the old leaf’s arch increased due to the exposed heat from powder coating, they are a little ‘soft’ for the front spring rate and car’s power. The new leafs were not much more than rearching the Ranchos and have an increased spring rate. Left the shackles loose for now to allow for settling and prevent binding. Car sits a little high in the rear at the moment, but it did settle about 0.5” since they were installed. Not concerned yet. Will wait till after more items are installed and some miles are put on the new suspension.

Finished up the brakes and installed the good wheels. This car is taking shape and looking good. Have a list of odds and ends to do in the next few days. Mainly waiting to finalize interior fabric colors and finalize art work(hood bird and lettering). At that point, I can redye the interior and installed the rest of the sheet metal.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/newleafsandrims7-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/newleafsandrims6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/newleafsandrims4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/newleafsandrims2-1.jpg

I like this shot
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/newleafsandrims9-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Looks great! Can't wait to see it finished!

[Doug1]

You are doing a great job! I may have missed this somewhere but was there a specific reason that you decided to keep the factory AC system?

[Takid455]

The OE A/C was retained for no reason other than to keep as much factory parts as possible and adapt new componentry to those systems. This was the idea when the project started. Had I known it would go this far, I probably would have went with an aftermarket system. Perhaps in the far future.

[FoxGranadaChuck]

Very good looking mid-70's Trans Am!!:cool::cool:

Merely out of curiosity, exactly what paint did you use to paint your car, if I may ask?

[Takid455]

Paint is HOK Goldmine pearl. Rather unique color & paint

[LV42DAY]

that shop has a little bit of everything, ponies, mopar, and bowties. nice

[ZuperZport]

TA looking awesome!

Love the color and all your detail work!

-Scott

[formula]

So great to see your bird coming together, man. Have you started thinking about events to debut at?!?

[Takid455]

LV42DAY - The shop does all sorts of builds. I hire them to apply paint & materials as I do not have a booth. We bounce work of each other so it is a win - win. I mainly do the rough body and mechanical work, but have done a bit more on this car b/c is coming out of my pocket. While I am doing messy work at my place, they have allowed me to assemble the car at their shop since they have the room. I will be sending them another car to paint and this fellow will return to my place at that time.

ZuperZport - Thank you. You comments are gretaly appreciated.

Wes - Been a long road. Looks to be smoothing out with nice sweeping turns.:drive1: I am hoping to have in at the Trans Am Nats in Dayton, OH the end of August. I guess prior events will be determined if the car is ready and/ or a request is made. The outlook is to give the car its 'Beauty Queen' year and then off to the races. We'll see how things pan out.



Progress...
Completed a bunch of little things. Reworked the inner wheel wells to provide tire clearance. while cutting is the easy way, I decided to do some metal working w/ hammer and dolly. About 3hrs/ side, but they cam out nice and I dont have to worry about road debris in the engine bay. Also modified the front of the wheel wells and radiator support for the brake cooling hose. I didn't like the brake lines from the m/c so new ones were bent. I'll be ordering some new glass and start searching for GM T top weatherstripping. The ones I have are better for a driver and the Metro seal has issues. Once I get the rad support and wheel wells back from powdercoating, I 'll spend some more time on the car. I need to catch up on other jobs in the meantime.

Coming close to finalizing a design w/ the airbrush artist as well as interior color arrangement. I'll be glad to have these 2 major things done out of the way as they are holding things up. If I want to drive the car any distance this season, I need to plenty of time to work out the bugs.

[Takid455]

Doing busy work lately and not much assembly. Artist are a PIA, but good ones are hard to find that match your style. Finally got the lettering on the fenders done and the rear spoiler is stated to be done any day. A few minor changes will be done to the spoilers lettering color wise that we thought could use some improvement based on the fender lettering as it looks too Spinal Tap ish vs. a knife edge. Nothing drastic. We’ll do any gold touch ups and clear the parts along with the art work at once. Fenders and hood will them be fitted to car. The hood will then be removed and set to the artist to do the bird.

Brake and clutch lines are bleed w/ ATE super blue…good stuff. Found a few bad flares along the way. No leaks so far. Routed brake cooling ducts and just need to fabricate intakes.

Nose is assembled sans grilles as it flexes too much not being bolted to rad support and fenders. GM weather stripping was obtained, but only for left side. Still looking for right side.

After long debates, samples and scale models, the interior colors are picked and seats are ordered. These things are not cheap!!! Really wanted to do an all tan interior, but that would look mundane with the exterior color. Black with tan suede inlays will be the final scheme. Seats are said to be done in a few weeks. Extra material was orders to do the rear seats, door panels, package tray, headliner, ect. Away goes the nice tan dash and out comes a nice black dash from storage. Need to install the auto unlock/ lock and trunk wiring. Still need a stereo system. Saw the Pioneer Stage 4 head unit and really like its appearance, but at 1300, its not an option.

New smoked tinted glass arrived and will be installed after I complete the wiring and dash installation.

Beak
Hella sealed beams w/ H1 & H4 bulbs
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/nose1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/nose3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/nose5-1.jpg

Interior
Before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0797-1.jpg

After
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0815-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0817-1.jpg

Lettering
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0810-1.jpg

Pearl flames. Tough to pick up with camera
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0814-1.jpg

[LeighP]

Yeah, saw these at TAC....great lettering, car is going to look awesome!

[NOT A TA]

Looks like you're making progress. I like the lettering! Nice touch.

[opnwide]

This trans am is looking sweet! How much longer till its all together? Do you have any target dates?

[Takid455]

Would like to get to Ohio at the end of August , but that will be here soon and I still have to science the car out to feel confident in the 1300 mile trek. Keeping fingers crossed.

Wanted to keep it close to stock but deviate slightly. The bird is sharp. I'll reveal that later.

[Takid455]

Ordered new smoke tinted glass instead of messing with the original glass. I dont think the green factory tint would jive with the gold anyway. Waiting on the side glass to arrive, picked up the rear from the vendor at a swap meet. saved 110 on shipping. WOOT!

More exciting, the front seats are done. Tried to keep the advertising to a minimum, but Susie and the staff at Cerullo did an outstanding job. Service was excellent and even ordered some non-stock suede for the inlays. I took teh rear seats , door panels and other interior items to a local shop to get redone to match the front seat. I ordered extra material so everything would match. Still up in the air on tannish(ACC's Chamois) or black head liner and carpet.

may have the front sheet metal installed by week's end depending on schedule.

[Dons67]

killer attention to detail - cant wait to see this in the sun

[craigs73]

very nice i like the color looks like you can swim in that paint great work!!

[Tony_SS]

that lettering is killer

[Takid455]

After clearing over the lettering, sanding and buffing, the front end was ready to be assembled. Had some help aligning the fenders. Even though they were test fit, they did not fit perfectly into place at first. While the radiator support is a different one then used for fitting, that didn’t seem to be the issue. After some time and carefully caressing the fender into place, success was achieved. I do have a clearance issue w/ the inner wheel well that can be massaged rather easily. Happens with design changes in the later stages of the build. At the end of the day, it looks like a car again. Just need to align the hood. The hood will then be removed and sent to the artist for the bird.

Interior is stated to be completed this week or so. Glass will probably go in shortly.

Spoiler
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0976-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201119-1.jpg

Honeycomb fender vents
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201120-1.jpg

Straight & gapped
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201111-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201110-1.jpg

Beak
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201113-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation520119-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation520112-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation520114-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201112-1.jpg

[Ron.in.SoCal]

Killer paint, nice wheels and....a spatchula!

[PonchoJohn]

LOL!!! ^ I thought the same thing...

[John Wright]

Getting closer.....LOL @ the spatula comments

[Takid455]

spatula? you referring to the lever on the wheel dolly?

[dusterbd13]

ive beem looking all day for the spatula. i guess its a wheres waldo kind of thing.

can someone circle it? i sucked at that game.

[manicmechanic]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/frontendinstallation5201119-1.jpg

Look at the wheel, the lever on the dolly is the spatchula

[Takid455]

Been a while since an update. Car is back at my place. Picked it up early August.

First order was to finish the electrical system which included relays in the window circuit, key fob for door locks and trunk popper, stereo and some misc items. I will need to add relays to the door lock from the auto key fob system as it does not have the power to energize the electromechanical motors. I just got the stereo system and need to lay the wires for that next. I went with CDT for speakers and JL for the amp. That amp cost as much as the speakers and head unit combined. Geez!!!

Made some misc brackets and found some clever solutions for fastening the bumper covers aside from the stock rivets.

Air brusher has the bird about 1/2 done. There is an area that caught my eye, but will wait unit till it is finished to decide if it needs to be addressed.

Currently redying the interior to black from tan and finishing the stereo layout. One day it will run...at least that it what I keep telling myself.

[Ripper]

One day it will run...at least that it what I keep telling myself.

It's usually hard to keep enough motivation to finish the last things in a project since it's not as big progress as when replacing a rusty quarter panel or so... But you're getting closer a finished car for every step you do. It sounds like you don't have a lot left, so just keep up the work...

...and post some pictures next time!
Updates without pics sucks. ;-)

[Takid455]

I'll get some pics soon. The work I have been doing is semi boring in picture form.

Got some problem things out of the way finally. Been having trouble w/ dying the interior w/ the humidity along with material issues (paint) and the steering column. Some dry days after months of endless rain yielded good dying results and I tried different products w/ the column and it came out decent. Probably have close to 22 hrs in that *******. It still may find its way into the river if it continues to piss me off.

On a happier note, the dash is in place w/ the wiring attached as per factory. Speaker wire is installed awaiting final trimming once speakers are installed. To complete this section of the build I need to accomplish the following:
make holder for dash speakers
run amplifier signal wires
permanently attach dash
Install steering column should it not find its way into the river.
Wire radio (3 wires)
check auto/ remote lock to see if relays are needed. I was informed the Bulldog unit does not have teh power to operate teh stock locks actuators.

Install interior & stereo components
At that point, I should be pretty much done electrically and most of the interior. Car should fire once again and I can attack the 'little's' to make it drivable.

Time is one of my biggest enemies thus when simple items (rebuild and paint steering column) take way longer than expected for BS reasons, it really irks me. Its all part of the fun of the hobby.

[Takid455]

We are up an running again!!!!!

all interior is redyed, steering column resolved, made speaker holder for the front 3" & 1" tweeters. looks like an Owl mask...kinda funny.

Dash is installed along w/ A/C controls. need to finish a few look wiring odds and ends and that will be done. that will be next along with testing all the electrical systems before I button everything up. I am very happy to hear the engine again since I redid a lot of the electrical systems for the ECU and and added a bunch of circuit protectors (relays & fuses ). I guess I did a good job.

I'll try to get some pics up. most of my free time is occupied by working on the car.

[Takid455]

Much of the items really aren’t going to show well in pictures. Here are some that do.

The F’n column…succeed we did.
Took it apart 10 yrs ago so I started with this…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild1-1.jpg

Everything inside a tilt column
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild4-1.jpg

Assembly
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild22-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild23-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild26-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild27-1.jpg

Done. Well we’ll just say this is what it looks like done. Had some paint issues which resulted in a tear down and reassembly in brief.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/tiltcolumnrebuild30-1.jpg


Had some nice tan interior panels, but since the stock tan clashes w/ the exterior color, I switched to black. Redyed black parts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/dyedblackinterior1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/dyedblackinterior2-1.jpg

Since the stock speaker bracket is good for a 10 x 4, it was not adequate for the new 3” & 1” component setup. So we start with these things…
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/frontspeakers10-1.jpg

Add some welding, grinding and paint to make this… Looks like and Owl face.. hooo hooo
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/frontspeakers14-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/frontspkrsdone1-1.jpg


The middle air duct and Right speaker were to tight so we take these…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/frontspeakers2-1.jpg

Add some of this
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/frontspeakers6-1.jpg

To make a mess like this
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/frontspeakers7-1.jpg

No more interference. I could have taken more time to make it look pretty, but since there is no way to see it once installed, this will be fine and function.

Wired backside of dash
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/dashwiring2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/dashwiring1-1.jpg

All the above installed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/dashinstalled1030113-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/dashinstalled1030111-1.jpg

Need to tidy up a few minor things, finished stereo system and test electrical circuits then the interior goes in.

Teaser of interior
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/rearseatteaser-1.jpg

[Torquedork]

Really cool project. What and who's color is that. Much more radical than ours!

[Ripper]

Great work!
Is it easy to keep the motivation up now when the car is almost together compared to when you were somewhere in the middle of the project? I wonder since I have problems with motivation right now...

I wish I had my car painted too!

[LeighP]

Yeah, now its all the little stuff that takes so much time. Good job!!!!

[Takid455]

those little things do take up time, but make a big difference. I like to set aside a block of time , like a full day, to dive into the car as I dont feel as rushed vs an hour here and there. little by little we'll keep on keepin on.

motivation to succeed is always tough no matter what it is your doing. Sometimes I find it good to hit milestones that finish a 'section' or 'plan'. Since it runs again and wont be dismantled like before when I sent it to teh paint shop, I can start it to keep moti or shall we say motorvation going. Will have more progess during the month , but probably towards the end as I have somethings and other projects/ jobs coming in.

[Takid455]

Took a break from the car as another project took priority. Gathers some need items during that period. Cracked the valve and lit the burner just before the holidays and turned the flame up. The bulk of work has been with the electrical and stereo systems. Painted and designed some other items along with picking up the interior and will be picking up the hood from the artist tomorrow (1/23/12).

Electrical:
Mainly testing and trouble shooting all the systems on the car prior to concealing them. Most have been good, others such as the automatic locks (Bulldog) have been a PITA. All is good except for the lock function which does not seem to be getting able power. I even have the system relayed. Moved on as I can access it later. While testing , the pass window motor it not quite up to par, and will be replaced. Wired up the console switches for various functions and well as the voltage reducer for the Cable X. That’s about it there.

Stereo
Installed all components and now have some bumpin in my trunk. WOOT!! CDT speakers have very crisp , clear sound. Making a tray/ mount for the amp and x-overs in the truck and having a sub box made to fit the floor.

Glass
Custom Smoke tinted glass installed. Looks sweet

Interior
Picked up interior which is ready to be installed

Body
Air brusher has finally finished the bird . cant wait to see it finished.
Grilles installed, moldings painted, stuff

Suspension
I have been rather torn whether to allow the hubs to stick through the wheels or make custom hub caps. I know of a solution, but wasn’t 100% tested until recently. At least on 2nd gens w/o being ‘rigged’. While not cheap, I picked up a set of ATS spindles for a 2nd gen and will order t eh steering arms and now I have resolved the ugly hub issue. Costly, but its something that bothered me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/ATSspindles1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/ATSspindles4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/ATSspindles2-1.jpg


Test panel for feathers
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_1951-1.jpg

Big progress to follow in the next few weeks.

[Takid455]

Hood picked up and the art work game out extremely nice. Will be cleared over to protect it and blend the edges. Should have it on the car by next week.

[tflyboy77]

Have you made it to T/A nats yet? I've been the last 4 years and last year was the first to take my car. Awesome time by the way.

[Takid455]

Been to the nats quite a few times. Did not attend last year due to conflicts in schedule. Plan on attending this year with this car. I had a, 'original/ patinia'd" blue 74 SD T/A for 2 years prior to last at the nats.

[Takid455]

Moving along well , yet finding random issues which all have solutions.

Interior is installed for the most part. Dont care for the seat frames. will modify them to liking. Cleaned old seat belts and while this stuff from PRO works great, the belts do not work with this build. Will save for a driver/ local show car. Stereo is up an bumping again. Will tidy up under t eh dash once the trans get reinstalled. Apparently the T/O bearings is quite a bit further away then it should be so either a spacer and or a new bell housing is in the works. The Quicktime line of adapter bell housings did not exist when I started this build thus I modified a Lakewood (now owns QT) bell. Probably space the slave cyl to solve the issue.

The ATS spindles will be shelved for now. After attempting to purchase additional items, it was apparent that a small order would turn into a big order. Too may things to change and still have a steering box vs R&P. I'll deal with that at a later date. SO in order to fix the hubs protruding the wheels, Forgeline was nice enough to send me a tall cap which after I machine the Kore3 hubs , will fit fine and have no ugly hub sticking out the wheel. Kore3 has since revised their hubs to avoid this machining step.

hopefully the hood will be cleared and that can be installed by the weekend. WOOT!!

[Takid455]

The tunnel is becoming shorter and the light is brighter. All of the above issues have been resolved.

I slightly modified the seat frames to sit as low as possible. I am informed that the seats will ‘sink’ over time. I do have ample head room currently. Ordered new seat belts from Morris Classic and they look very nice. Installation was w/o issues. Need to clean some covers as they are not supplied. Cleaned up the wiring and installed the remaining interior sans door panel fixings as I need to adjust the windows.

Clutch issue was resolved by installing the QT bellhousing. After debating several options, this one , while not the cheapest, seemed to have better long term benefits over the other options. It is a good bit shorter than the stock Lakewood and after a good bleeding, the clutch works great. What a difference over t he old mechanical setup. I run this clutch (DF612909) in a 74 t/a and it requires some effort.

Forgeline sent some nice hub caps that hide the unsightly bearing cap.

Hood is on and …..IT DRIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On the afternoon of 2-25-12, the car moved under it’s own power for the first time since 1992!!!!!!

Only went down the driveway and back a few times. Depending an weather, perhaps this weekend will see some blacktop although it does call for rain. Need to finesse some trim pieces and wrap up loose ends. Finding out I need to order some minor items that the old stuff is not up to par. Nothing that will hold back progress. Been a good month so far.


Bleeding hyd t/o setup. Funky, but it worked.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/bleedingclutch2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/bleedingclutch1-1.jpg

Bell housing differences

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/stockvsQTbell3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/stockvsQTbell1-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/stockvsQTbell4-1.jpg

Installation thereof
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/InstallingQTbell1-1.jpg

Interior thusfar

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/21612interiorplaced2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/21612interiorplaced1-1.jpg

Bird
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/hoodinstalled6-1.jpg

Rebirth and drive!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_2069-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_2068-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_2067-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_2066-1.jpg

[peices of eight...]

just caught this thread, your car turned out great! really like the interior and the exterior colour, way to stick to it! I wish I had, I have to keep pulling mine apart to finish it, 4 years to get the wipers to work!

[LeighP]

Man, seeing that puts a big smile on my face...she looks terrific!!!!!!

[sr73bu]

Great Job!, all that hard work and patience has certainly paid off!!!

Bringing it to RTTS?

-Sean

[Takid455]

Little by little I keep chipping away at the list. The build keeps me going and try to do things so I feel rewarded for the efforts. Say, start the engine and then hook up the accessories and clean up wiring. Milestones are keep in any build. I always felt the body work to be the most unrewarding stage as you really do have any 'reward' until it is painted and buffed. That may take months or even years. It just changes colors from the different materials (primers, expoxy, sealers, ect)

Planning out the next projects already. 1939 Buick Century and 1956 Oldsmobile 88. My dad has owned the 39 since 1980 or so, longer than I have been alive (b. '81), yet I have never seen it together or remotely resembling a car for that matter. He turned 65 this year, and as time shows my beginnings put the kabosh on the Buick, its time to bring it back. The 56 is something that I have wanted for a awhile and the planets aligned this summer. I drive the car routinely. Both will be upgraded mechanically to be worry free cruisers. The olds of course will have some snot via twin turbos on the 324 while the buck will have a 401 nail.

Sean - wont be attending this year. Had a blast last year w/ the E30 BMW. Tried to go this year, but other plans conflict. I do aim to have the T/A next year. Should be sorted out by then.

[Takid455]

Started making an exact fit subwoofer enclosure as well as molding trunk carpet. Using a junker shell for these tasks and then install into the gold *car once finished.

Weather was nice and it was time. Took the fellow out for its inaugural drive. On my B-day too so it was a good day. A great feeling to enjoy something build with your own hands. bought car as disassembled 9/05 and 6.5 yrs later its on the road. It felt good. While I did not go too far, car fells tight and confident. totally diffident personality than a stock or slightly modified 2nd gen. Will need to get used to this car. More seat time will sort out suspension and tune engine.

Straight headers is always fun to enjoy. At the exhaust shop now for finessing a section and alignment. Will go back to paint shop shortly to take care of some issues. Hopefully it will *be in and get out.

last 2 cuts are after I made some adjustments. Felt much better afterwards.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v235/Takid455/1978%20TA%20%20gold/?action=view&current=3-11-11firstdrive4.mp4


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/th_31111firstdrive4-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v235/Takid455/1978%20TA%20%20gold/?action=view&current=3-11-11firstdrive4.mp4)

[CruizinKev]

looks and sounds great! good work!!! :twothumbs

[Takid455]

Exhaust is made and tack welded. need to fully weld it and add some flanges. Rather trick after the mufflers to clear the Watt's link as well as stuffing 3" tubes in an area that was designed for 2.25" tubes. Runs much better w/ exhaust. Engine wanted back back pressure and or this helps the O2 sensors obtain an accurate reading. still needs a good tuning which is on the list.

After a quick run, I found the steering box to be in need of rebuilding. I have a late model 12.7:1 ratio box ready to install.

since I had the shop set up for molding the trunk carpet, I figured to knock that out. what a time consuming process. Torch, heat gun, glue tape.. I know why people dont do this more often w/ stock contoured metal. Came out not bad. Installing Amp tray and clean up stereo wires to complete the trunk area. Looking for a 17" spare before I continue with the sub box. spare + t tops = little room for sub box in am economically space.

[Ripper]

Looks real good!
Actually it looks really good! So good that I was actually starting to thinking about gold on mine too...

Not much left now - First finished drive in April? :smoke:

[Takid455]

Hopefully before April but more than likely early April. The fan shroud is holding me up. just needs 4 bends. Fellow has had it for 1yr so I dont want to rush him...jeez. Probably pick it up this week finished or not as I really cant wait too much longer.

[Takid455]

5/29/12

After 7.5 years, we drove to our first outing. Not 100% done, but very close. Waiting on a few misc items and need to tiddy up some minor odds and ends. Most important is the adjusting and fine tuning the EFI and suspension. Running OK, haven’t pushed it as everything thing is new and I have a few systems on the car that I am not too familiar with on how they operate. All systems are/ appear to be working w/o any major issues.

Some shots from the show and interior

Interior
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2280-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2278-1.jpg

Custom gauges w/ a stock look
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2227-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2228-1.jpg

First showing. First real public outing since ’92. After 7.5 years of effort and more coin than I could imaging ….

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2270-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2268-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2267-1.jpg

[Happyfunballs]

That thing is gorgeous.

[BonzoHansen]

That thing is gorgeous.

hell yeah. those wheels would look good on my car!

[Plastik Racer]

This looks great!

[brownz]

Very nice!!!

[Takid455]

Thanks all. Now its break-in time and getting used to this machine. even the short drive I have on it, you can tell it is a good departure from a typical 2nd gen. Feels like a modern sports car w/ a monster under the hood. I can idle at 500 w/ the EFI, but it is a bit lumpy. something i'll tune as we go. Need to do a few heat cycles w/ the rear before I start laying into the power. Hoping we have some dry not so humid weather here in the garden state compared to last years soggy mess.

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice work, I will say it again!!

[LeighP]

Saw these pics at TAC.....definitely worth looking at them again.
Top job!

[Doug1]

Very nice 2nd Gen. One day I will have one of mine finished... Chad Fletcher? Can you here me? Hello? :-)

[WS6]

Gorgeous! I knew it was going to look fantastic when finished. Glad you were able to make it this far.

[VCT-TA]

Nice work! Great Job!! I looked through the thread but couldn't find any info on the "Custom gauges w/ a stock look". Could you provide some additional details about those??

[Takid455]

Wanted to thank all those that have been following and contributing to the completion of this build. Little thoughts and positive comments help in keeping the dream alive. While I believe the dream should be fueled by one's self, the onward push from other definitely helps. W/o going into details, it wasnt exactly a smooth ride in life through the build. However, the dream was kept alive. So big THANK YOU to all!!!

It is not 100% done, but all the big ticket items are done and now its small little things and refinement.


VCT - Gauges are shown in the above pictures. Seems I did well in disguing the uniqueness.

mod incl
auto meter tach
higher redline
200 mph speedo face (100 mph calibrated unit w/ reducer via Cable X)
oil temp gauge in place of clock
LED lighting

I hired Daniel from Gaugemarks to handle the assignment. Very professional and excellent communication.

[Procharmo]

The build is so complete and detailed. The paint is stunning. Well done!

[GreatWhiteTrans-Am]

Sweet build! im building my 79 this way, where did you get your gauges from?

[WS6]

I hired Daniel from Gaugemarks to handle the assignment. Very professional and excellent communication.


Here you go Great White

[Takid455]

about 100 miles on the car and 15 gal of gas. A tad rich. Had some bugs which I am addressing. Noticed some of the injects drip so I am replacing them. Being the system is 20 yrs old, the injectors are no longer made so I needed to do an upgrade. Right now timing and fuel system is ball park but needs some fine tuning. Have a show I want to attend in 2 weeks, hopefully I feel confident in the car to make the 400 mile round trip.

I was concerned that I would have lugging issues in 6th at normal speeds. Found out there is plenty pf torque to rid that concern even when going up hill. Engine gets warm but cools down. Still reaching 220 is not fun. Fans are blowing full or appear to be. Have them coming on at 190 for half speeds and 210 for full. radiator has good temp change from top to bottom. going pull t stat to see if it is a flow issue. maybe its moving too slow. will find out. timing is at 34 deg at 3k. will put at 32 deg to see if that helps.

[Takid455]

More T&T sessions , finding issues and working out bugs.

EFI

Doing better and closer to a comfortable tune. short is all things are working, changed out injectors and pod. Will be some time before a tune is concrete. Added an AFR gauge and it was def worth the investment.

discussion
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?90193-Projection-4i-Help-needed&highlight=holley+projection

Currently working on cooling issue. Adjusted clearance of impeller and divider plate, changing high flow Mr gasket t stat w/ reg 180 stat as I have had issue with them in the past. Opening up intake cooling passage to match the port in the head. Fan wiring is adequate. tested wiring along with direct from stand alone battery and there was no difference. Will have update tomorrow.

Other than that, car runs OK and handles good. Planning on a 200 mile trip Friday. Forging through the next few days to work out the remaining bugs and issues.

[Takid455]

Over due update:
Made the trip w/o issues. 400+ miles and seemed to get around 15 mpg on initial tune. Even in traffic on 95 deg humid day, the temp was solid at 180.

EFI was upgraded to newer injectors which work well. Love the instant start if a FI motor. No need to even touch the pedal. Finding out the trans does not have a 0.50 6th but a 0.63. Good for nice 25% gear splits but bad for fuel econ. It will actually be a better fit for the planned 3.55 Ford 9" rear.

Ran new ground strap from battery to block for added measure. hoping this would fix the tack sticking issue and blown coils. Coil seems to be OK, but the tack still sticks. Its an Autometer unit so it will be going back to them when the weather breaks for fixing.

Some minor things to address, but just drive and dial in suspension for now and actually enjoy the car.

At NY event
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_1449-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_1452-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_1453-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_1451-1.jpg

met this guy while up there cruising around. T/A's future stable mate (one day)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_2523-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_2530-1.jpg

[srh3trinity]

That color pops. It almost looks like the lady with one shoe is lining you two up for a drag race.

[Takid455]

10/15/12
After 7 years of on & off building this car, I am call it done for now. All systems are working and have not had any notable issues in the last 1800 miles or so. Drove the car to OH totaling 1400 miles for that trip. No issues and it ran great. Observed Hwy mileage was 17-19 MPG. Used the car for some local trills since that trip and I have to say I need to get used to this machine. Much different than your average 2nd gen T/A. Def demands respect. Perhaps I can find a road course where I can test some limits and tune the suspension. Overall, I enjoy the car and like the final product. T56 is awesome. Those in debate should just pucker up and do it. 2800 rpm in 6th = 100mph. Car is stable at 140 too :0 . Handling is compared to a modified modern sports car. Where the average 2nd gen nears limits in turns this thing feels effortless. EFI is the cat’s a$$. Let it sit for a month, turn the key and it fires right up.
Think the only thing I would change would not paint the underside. It is nice, but rarely to people look at it being the low stance of the car and it’s a PITA to keep clean. Would also consider using an aftermarket A/C system rather than utilize the bulky stock system to clean up the engine bay.
As planned, this year and part of next are beauty queen years attending shows. However, the emphasis on shows is dwindling and focus on having fun is picking up. I have observed these typs of builds for most local shows are over the top for the average show gower who judges cars by either chalk mark correctness or big giant blower from engine/ bling. While those that know are ‘wowed’, most don’t understand the engineering and planning to modify a car and integrate those systems so it ‘appears’ stock.
Making a list of things for next season which will include higher rate front springs (700-750#), various hose / tube clamps to secure engine bay plumbing neater, brake duct cooling intakes, & dial-in suspension. Also send tack back to autometer so it doesn’t stick at 3k rpm and decide to work normally at random. Did a search and it seems to be common.
Did a photo shoot this weekend, will attempt some more in the next couple weeks when the fall foliage peaks. Called some local photo people but they expressed little interest thus I I said screw it took some myself. Basic point & shoot Cannon.
Chillin’ on nice back road (one my testing roads). Too bad dude in front was asleep at the wheel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3279-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_1453-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_1452-1.jpg
Loc 1
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3189-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3187-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3184-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3177-1.jpg
Loc 2
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3220-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3217-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3212-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3195-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3201-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3261-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3197-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3221-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3229-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3273-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3272-1.jpg
Pre-requisite wheel shots
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3271-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3269-1.jpg

[Takid455]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3243-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3228-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3208-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3254-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3232-1.jpg
Future stable mate shot form a while back.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_2523-1.jpg

[Chadman27]

That is one wicked gold, car looks great!

[Takid455]

Thanks!! Really had atough time finding a nice, not gaudy gold. Think this was a good choice.

Some more final build shots.
Engine
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3257-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3255-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_3256-1.jpg

Some underside shoots during the build. Looks about the same today with more parts added.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/3280910-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/31709shoot-1.jpg

Dash gauges
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_2228-1.jpg

Trunk
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/trunk10127-1.jpg

Sub yet to be installed and wiring finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/trunk10125-1.jpg

With 17” spare to clear brakes. 04-06 GTO/ Manaro
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/trunk10126-1.jpg

[LeighP]

I checked back through the posts, but I didn't really see detail on how you built that Watts link arrangement. Any detailed pics available?
Thanks.

[wellis77]

One of my favorite second gens. Great job!

[Takid455]

Didnt do much explaining the design of the Watts as it is it more experimental to create a low roll center. There are other ways that would work as well. Being that the 10 bolt is the weak link in this driveline, I wasnt too concerned about stressing the snout of the case.

Pretty simple once the math was done, made/ welded pivot to bottom front of diff. Made a bell crank and attached 2 links. RH side link attached to rear / end of SFC where the LH link attaches to 3/8" bracket descending from the frame rail to keep the links parallel.

Upon reviewing the links at current ride height, I will lower the links' one hole further downward so they remain parallel to the horizon.

[VCT-TA]

Great TA! Thanks for sharing and all of the good photos!

Can you share any additional information about the following:
* The watts link, how to and photos?
* Treating the cylinder heads with Alumiprep33 and Alodine 1001; any change in color and how is that working for you?
* What are the tire and wheel specs?

Thanks again.
Dan

[formula]

Really ecstatic for you man, years of hard work paid off marvelously. Awesome stuff.

[Trans]

what did you end up doing with the black trans am?

[Takid455]

Can you share any additional information about the following:
* The watts link, how to and photos?
Just what's posted. Being experimental, I am reluctant to release info until it is proven. Really not much different than a typ Watt's rotated to the underside. Should be some shots in the thread.

* Treating the cylinder heads with Alumiprep33 and Alodine 1001; any change in color and how is that working for you?
Working very well so far. No noticeable/ mentionable color change.

* What are the tire and wheel specs?
Toyo Tr1, Forgeline WC3
F
tires 255/40/18 on 18x9 5" or 5.5" BS

R
285/35/18 on 18x9.5, 5.625" BS

Wes - you beat me to the road first. Been a long build. What a thrill it is to finally be on the road. Hope all is well with you and your ride. Maybe one we will cruise.

Trans - sold it a few years ago. Have 2 more black T/A's to sell. PM for details

[LeighP]

Thanks for the info, I've seen a similar horizontal Watts link on the back end of hardcore off-road Jeeps...mounted above the centre....was just interested in your adaptation.
I'd like to do something as a project later to positively locate the axle so the springs are not having to double in that job.

[Trans]

Future stable mate shot form a while back.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/IMG_2523-1.jpg


I would rather drive the trans am everyday over that stupid import hahha

[sr73bu]

Absolutely Beautiful! Hopefully i'll run into you cruising around NJ or at an event soon!

-Sean

[yellow1098Greg]

Love the build and the car .my 77 is nice but one day I want it like this..... Just wondering if you had some specs on the motor, I went through the thread a few times and didn't see any hp numbers or if it was a stock rebuild or stroked or what? Looks great and very inspirational

[Martin71RS]

it's a beauty!!

[Motown 454]

Awesome job! the car looks great.

[LUV2XLR8]

excellent build... car looks great :)

[Takid455]

Thanks for the comps. Hope we can get a track event in the Northeast this year. would be fun to rip around a track or 2. Better to dial in suspension.

engine is 'stock' of course :)
based on 455 w/ kre heads. HR cam. some magic in the mix too. est based on similar build to have around 540 hp / 600 tq

[NOT A TA]

Looks very nice! Congrats on finishing. Would like to know how that Watts works out for you on track if you get the car on one.

[TEXAS PAUL]

VERY VERY NICE JOB!!!! Pontiac Brother

[Takid455]

Projects are never done and this one is no exception...well, its still being built according to the overall plans created 10yrs ago. Wow..10 years!! About 7,000 miles on the build to date and loving it. For inquiring minds MPG city/ fun time is 12, Highway 18-19. Hopefully this will improve as a new EFI system will be installed over the winter in place of the old Holley Projection 4i. It’s been good but cant feed the motor which was anticipated. At the time , I didn’t care for the aftermarket systems and had this so on it went.

Currently the build is somewhere in the phase 3 & 4 of the overall plan. This year’s updates included:
16”/12” dual brushless fan system by Delta PAG
Adjustable coilover system with ride height adjustability by PTFB
C6 Z06 brakes w/ DBA slotted rotors
Baffled fuel tank w/ in-tank pump. My original tank w/ 4th gen Fbody unit worked well, but starved for fuel around long turns w/ ¼ tank. This is one of those things that happens as aftermarket steps up.
Embroidered floor mats

Show / outing shots
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3996_zps372ce58f-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/IMG_3996_zps372ce58f.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_2089_zps52a3777d-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/Outings/IMG_2089_zps52a3777d.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_0402_zpsd42f7d9d-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_0402_zpsd42f7d9d.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_0416_zpse0752df3-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_0416_zpse0752df3.jpg.html)

With up and coming Bid Bad Olds.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/928141_zps63c264b9-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/9-28-141_zps63c264b9.jpg.html)

Back to the fun
Fan set up. 2800 CFM vs 4100 CFM. Better shroud design and overall flow of air through radiator. Engine doesn’t get warm as it once did.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_4508_zpsf4cb8719-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_4508_zpsf4cb8719.jpg.html)


Big boy brakes.
Had the base vette brakes prior and they are a good improvement over stock. These are way better than stock. Makes driving stock brake cars feel as if something is wrong. Def require 18” rims. Had to clearance the front calipers a touch for the 3pc bolts. Direct bolt on otherwise.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3381_zps3c2eb473-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3381_zps3c2eb473.jpg.html)

New front suspension setup. This allows one to PROPERLY set the coil over so the shock piston is approx half way compressed in the body at ride height. Ride height is then adjusted via jack screw accessible in engine bay. Shocks are double adjustable. Different are were required as the GW arms interfered with the upper shock mount. Difference is dramatic. Car rides much smoother and feels confidently panted to the road. Old coilover setup was OK but could never get it adjusted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3811_zps23631262-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3811_zps23631262.jpg.html)

OE mount
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3812_zpsce0b9de6-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3812_zpsce0b9de6.jpg.html)

After Plasma, sawzall & grinder
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3819_zps69465405-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3819_zps69465405.jpg.html)

Mocked up
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3825_zpsba3ae2fc-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3825_zpsba3ae2fc.jpg.html)

Getting there. Stuff gets dirty after use. As much as I clean this car, I was surprised how much and where dirt found its self during disassembly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3868_zps29280844-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3868_zps29280844.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3881_zps2058cecb-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3881_zps2058cecb.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3875_zps181c3f9a-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3875_zps181c3f9a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_4513_zpseac1b976-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_4513_zpseac1b976.jpg.html)

All installed and ready to roll
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3904_zps13f1a594-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3904_zps13f1a594.jpg.html)

Rears
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/IMG_3902_zps85431a5a-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Takid455/media/1978%20TA%20%20gold/2014%20upgrades%20brake%20-%20cooling%20and%20susp/IMG_3902_zps85431a5a.jpg.html)


Winter project is an EFI system I am making myself. Will be tunable by anyone that can tune any late model GM product. System should work on any engine platform with a few platform specific parts. All parts will be avail over the counter if needing replacement.

[VCT-TA]

Really like the new brakes and the coilovers. Where did the coilover conversion kit come from?

Also, noticed the brake cooling duct in the dust shield. Did you fabricate those or are they available some where?

Thanks

[Takid455]

Pro touring F body has them. One I installed was a prototype Dave did. Production ones are a little easier to install as they reference the UCA bolts for alignment. Brake ducts I fabricated. Cooling ducts not shown/ installed as they are not needed for street driving. I put them in for track days.

[True79 "Z"]

Where did you find the arm to use on the shifter position? I have a 79 Camaro trying to use the 4 speed console and keep it original with decent gas mileage. Thank you in advance.


UPDATE 3/2/07

Since the last post, I stopped by the trans shop and looked at exactly what was inside this 6 speed mechanical device. Lots of parts, but nothing that looked difficult to build. Then again, nothing is hard if you know what you are doing. I supposed after about 3 shots, I might get it right. Gforce had sent the modified bellhousing and custom mainshaft to work with triple cone viper tail housings. Very interesting and nicely machine piece. Top notch work by Gforce. Here are some pics

Stuff, look at that bad boy. Rated to 750HP . Gears are the weakest link in this. Better gears are rated to 1200HP and cost 2200. I supposed if you can afford that power , you can afford the gears.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0186-1.jpg

Gears
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0180-1.jpg

Carbon fiber syncros, not what I envisioned, but I guess they work well
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0181-1.jpg

I had thought that I would be in for a long night of cutting and welding to fit this trans in the tunnel. With the engine tilted at 4* which is the angle of the carb mounting surface relative to the centerline of the engine, the trans fit in and bolted up in about 1 minute. Not lying here. This is with clutch and all bolted up as well. I instantly doubled checked all heights, angles, ect and all were good to go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0197-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0194-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0195-1.jpg


So I moved on to the shifter using a stock viper unit. Sawzall and a carbide cutter made a nice opening in the tunnel. I have to move the shifter shaft in about 1” so it doesn’t hit the console. I will be installing a short throw, which will be normal throw with the add height/ length of the shifter. Mcleod makes a nice short throw that can be tailored to your specs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0206-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0209-1.jpg


This is all for now. Tomorrow is finish sanding spoilers and bumpers, fit hydrobooster and hyd. Master cyl in firewall.

[Takid455]

I didn't use any arms perse'. The one shown is a Viper unit for mock up. it was not used. The shifter I used has no offset. To get the shifter location, I used a mix of T56 trans main and tail housings.

[Takid455]

Been about a year since I got my Pontiac 24x EFI , Coil near plug system running & on the road. Aside from some expect tuning bits initially, it has performed flawless. My old TBI setup doesn't hold a candle to this. I made extra sets for my other cars & for others. I use an 0411 GM ECU but others can also be utilized. Its wonderful being able to datalog all the parameters of the old Poncho engine & fine tune. Overall the car/ engine feels more livelier & more responsive even compared to well tuned carb & TBI setups.


Here's a short video of it running on the car.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhTHRymPSlM


One might say, why this over say a Holley system.
1) Holley ticked me off years ago in this area , not the worker's fault, corporate.
2) You can obtain any of the sensors at a locale parts store if needed.
3) Anyone that can tune GM (or ECU of choice) can hook up to this via ODB2 port
4) "Why not LS/LT swap?" - Pure personal preference. Its the best of both worlds. Old school looks & feel with modern tech & reliability.