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harshman
12-06-2004, 09:18 AM
So here it is…

I just got off the phone with Comp cams warranty department. I installed a complete cam kit including springs, seals, cam, lifters, timing chain etc. Once it was completed I got a severe ticking on #2 exhaust. The warranty department told me that I need to replace the lifters and cam and pull the inner valve springs in order to do a fresh break in. They said that the springs are dual and that there is too much seat pressure for proper break in.

O.K. so my question is this. When you build a new motor do you only put in the outer spring for break in? Do you tell the customer to come back in 500 miles so you can install the inner spring? I know Comp cams knows it’s stuff, but this sounds a bit much.
:hmm:

ProdigyCustoms
12-06-2004, 09:48 AM
Never done it, never had a problem.

68protouring454
12-06-2004, 10:19 AM
harshman, most engine builders have at least a test stand to run a motor on, they break inthe motor on it then add the inner springs, although like frank said some remove springs some do not, the important thing is to keep the rpms up between 2000-2500 for break in , i like to run a bit longer like 25-30 mins, i belive its not the cam thats being broken in its the lifters, they need oil and need to spin inthere bores and at idle they have only splash lubrication, and some will not spin at idle thus needing breaki in, goodluck]
jake

gmachinz
12-06-2004, 03:32 PM
I use lower tension springs when it comes to that-you're only going to 3,000 R's max and with those springs you're okay-then swap out for your regular ones. Only an issue with extreme seat pressure which is needed for excessively high lifts (debatable, though...). -Jabin

Norwoodx55
12-06-2004, 07:11 PM
I have been eye-ballin' the 1.3-1 ratio rockers made just for cam break-in. Sure would beat the spring swap hassle.

ProdigyCustoms
12-06-2004, 07:52 PM
Yeah, it would be nice to have a set of those 1.3s around. I never run hydraulics over 250 duration, and that is usually not more then 550 lift, so spring pressures are not that extraordinary. I just have not had any problem with break in. I, like someone else said though, do fire my motors, hit the timing immediately, tune it and run it for a good 30 minutes if it will run with no gremlins 2000 to 3000 RPMs, and yes, I agree, they call it breaking in the cam, but you are really letting the lifters spin a while and break in.

pushrod243
12-08-2004, 05:22 PM
So am i missing something? :dunno: Did they replace the parts or did they say it was improper break-in? I guess i'll stick with my roller cam sounds like a lot less hassle. :3gears:

yody
12-08-2004, 08:50 PM
i take out the inner valve springs...cheap insurance

myclone
12-09-2004, 03:36 AM
fire my motors, hit the timing immediately, tune it and run it for a good 30 minutes if it will run with no gremlins 2000 to 3000 RPMs, and yes, I agree, they call it breaking in the cam, but you are really letting the lifters spin a while and break in.

Ditto here and I have yet to have a cam lobe go flat. However, with big cams that will require dual springs to get the right seat pressure I pull the inner spring for break in. Like Yody said.."cheap insurance".

The 1.3 rockers would be nice and maybe I should add them to my list for santa ;) .

harshman
12-09-2004, 09:45 AM
Comp is sending me a new cam and lifters (I paid for them and they will credit me when they receive the bad cam and lifters). Once I get the cam in and everything back on the motor, I’ll pull the inner springs out and start the break in. On the first go around we had problems starting up on the account that I screwed up the plug wires on the distributor. That might have helped with the whole failed lifter thing. :hammer:

Zefhix
12-09-2004, 02:30 PM
Comp is sending me a new cam and lifters (I paid for them and they will credit me when they receive the bad cam and lifters). Once I get the cam in and everything back on the motor, I’ll pull the inner springs out and start the break in. On the first go around we had problems starting up on the account that I screwed up the plug wires on the distributor. That might have helped with the whole failed lifter thing. :hammer:

Nah, it ran funny but the motor was still running over 2500k the whole time it was running so I don't see how it could have affected the lifter....
BTW- that was the #3 cylinder on your side, right? ;) j/k :)

Before he rats on me too I had two rockers (one the #6 intake & #8 exhaust) a little too tight as well. Hard to gauge sometimes.....

harshman
12-13-2004, 03:06 PM
I just pulled the cam and lifters. #2 exhaust lifter was severely concave as well as #5 intake. The cam reflected this as well – it looked like someone took a hammer and beat the lobes to a stump on those two. Lesson learned.