dgoetz
01-20-2007, 10:10 AM
My name is Don Goetz, and I live in Wyoming. I have lived here for 35 years. For the past four years I have been building a '68 set up for Solo ll, Autocross, and street. My goal is to have a 1st generation Camaro that will out perform a late model Camaro and maybe come close to a '06 Z06 Corvette; but keep the original look of a classic muscle car.
I am running a World Products all aluminum 454ci small block; I am using an 870 Holley rather than the 1050 and a hydraulic cam instead of the solid lifter. The engine is set back 1 1/2 inches, with a modified Richmond 5sp (higher 1st gear and lower 2nd gear) to give me 2 perfect gears for any course. It puts out 575 hp and 550 lbs torque on gas and I have a 125hp NOS set up if I want to drag race it but SCCA doesn't allow Nitrous so it isn't installed yet. A 3" exhaust system featuring series 50 Flowmasters. Chev modified 12 bolt with 308 gears. MSD digital 6 ignition box.
The brakes are 13" 6 piston wilwood frt & 12" 4pis in the rear. The wheels are Torque thrusts 9 1/2" front, and 11" in the rear, with 295/35 X 17 front, 315 35 X 17 in the rear, using Hoosier slicks for Autocross and Goodyear 275/40x17 & 315/35x17 F-1's for the street.
The chassis has been strengthened with firewall to frame braces, Detroit Speed welded sub frames connectors that even required me to cut the floor boards to make them fit right. It has been scaled and Cross weighted to within .5% + or - to give it the best balance.
The front suspension is all Global West Category Five Negative roll Road race tubular A-arms with QA-1 shocks & 700lbs coil overs. In order to get the car low enough and keep room for adj shims I had to relocate each UCA bracket 3/8” on the frame.
The rear is a triangulated four link modified from Air Ride Technologies but using QA1's with 220 lbs coil overs rather than air shocks. It is designed to mount the shock brackets flush with the top of the frame but it wouldn't sit low enough so I raised them 2" above the frame and had to build an enclosure in side the trunk to cover it all. The car weighs about 3300 lbs but I have added 100lbs to the rear and 25lbs right frt to get as close to 50/50 as possible with me in it.. I am running about 48.7% rear.
The body is pretty stock except I had to raise the wheel wells in the front 1 1/2" to give me room for the tires but I used the stock flares and most people don't notice it. It is mounted to the frame with solid Aluminum mounts that were measured and cut to fit each stock location. I found the body and frame not to be parallel.
I am finding out that the driver is more important than the car so my wife and I have a long way to go, but we are having fun with it!
To put the car back to just a street machine all I have to do is install lighter springs, replace the solid body mounts with rubber ones and adjust the shock dampening softer.
I have a quick ratio steering box and had to add a remote reservoir and billet power steering box cover to keep it cool and not over flowing. I am planning on building a roll bar cage this summer. I have thought about IRS but I really like the reversed wheel look. Anybody out there got any ideas on what else I should do? 15268
15269
I am running a World Products all aluminum 454ci small block; I am using an 870 Holley rather than the 1050 and a hydraulic cam instead of the solid lifter. The engine is set back 1 1/2 inches, with a modified Richmond 5sp (higher 1st gear and lower 2nd gear) to give me 2 perfect gears for any course. It puts out 575 hp and 550 lbs torque on gas and I have a 125hp NOS set up if I want to drag race it but SCCA doesn't allow Nitrous so it isn't installed yet. A 3" exhaust system featuring series 50 Flowmasters. Chev modified 12 bolt with 308 gears. MSD digital 6 ignition box.
The brakes are 13" 6 piston wilwood frt & 12" 4pis in the rear. The wheels are Torque thrusts 9 1/2" front, and 11" in the rear, with 295/35 X 17 front, 315 35 X 17 in the rear, using Hoosier slicks for Autocross and Goodyear 275/40x17 & 315/35x17 F-1's for the street.
The chassis has been strengthened with firewall to frame braces, Detroit Speed welded sub frames connectors that even required me to cut the floor boards to make them fit right. It has been scaled and Cross weighted to within .5% + or - to give it the best balance.
The front suspension is all Global West Category Five Negative roll Road race tubular A-arms with QA-1 shocks & 700lbs coil overs. In order to get the car low enough and keep room for adj shims I had to relocate each UCA bracket 3/8” on the frame.
The rear is a triangulated four link modified from Air Ride Technologies but using QA1's with 220 lbs coil overs rather than air shocks. It is designed to mount the shock brackets flush with the top of the frame but it wouldn't sit low enough so I raised them 2" above the frame and had to build an enclosure in side the trunk to cover it all. The car weighs about 3300 lbs but I have added 100lbs to the rear and 25lbs right frt to get as close to 50/50 as possible with me in it.. I am running about 48.7% rear.
The body is pretty stock except I had to raise the wheel wells in the front 1 1/2" to give me room for the tires but I used the stock flares and most people don't notice it. It is mounted to the frame with solid Aluminum mounts that were measured and cut to fit each stock location. I found the body and frame not to be parallel.
I am finding out that the driver is more important than the car so my wife and I have a long way to go, but we are having fun with it!
To put the car back to just a street machine all I have to do is install lighter springs, replace the solid body mounts with rubber ones and adjust the shock dampening softer.
I have a quick ratio steering box and had to add a remote reservoir and billet power steering box cover to keep it cool and not over flowing. I am planning on building a roll bar cage this summer. I have thought about IRS but I really like the reversed wheel look. Anybody out there got any ideas on what else I should do? 15268
15269