$50.00 Paint Job

[novanutcase]

Not sure if anyone has read this yet but looks promising:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

LOOOOONG thread but very interesting read! I think this would be perfect for someone on a very tight budget that has the time to put the sweat equity into it. Also, for race cars owners that don't want to have to worry about there paint jobs!

John

[andrewb70]

Awesome. I am on that like white on rice!

Andrew

[Rubes]

Awesome. I am on that like white on rice!

Andrew
Yeah, Andrew, I think your GTO is ready for a new paint job.

[Project69]

well im off the local home depot lol Im gonna do that asap.

[rocketrod]

I have been reading and reading and reading the thread, but have yet to find the American equivalent to Tremclad. I know its Rustoleum, but which line of paint??...

[Project69]

After hours upon hours of reading The Rust-Oleum Stop Rust is the same as Tremclad, There both Alkyd oil based... But you need to Buy some Mineral Spirits to thin the paint out

That being said im off to a hardware shop to do some shopping :yeah:

[SicMonte]

hmmm......that sounds easy and fun. and when someone asks who did the paint...you have an awesome story to tell them!!!

[slow4dr]

WOW, this is right up my alley. Thanks for the link John.

[TonyL]

Without clicking the link, I'm betting its the roller paint guy with the orange charger and white corvair huh? The results are shocking.

[rocketrod]

Without clicking the link, I'm betting its the roller paint guy with the orange charger and white corvair huh? The results are shocking.Correct and he has painted several VW Beetles.

I wonder how well this stuff holds up against brake fluid?

[DusterRT]

Anyone care to point out pages with pictures? I know the general idea of it, but when I first stumbled into it there were about 1/4 of the pages there are now. 43 pages? Sheesh! They need an index, or table of contents or something..

[TonyL]

Click here (http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,46145,46185#msg-46185)

This car was painted with a roller

From this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

to this: WITH A FOAMY HOTDOG ROLLER!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And here's his How he did it page (http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html)

[andrewb70]

Yeah, Andrew, I think your GTO is ready for a new paint job.

Its for the "Mistress"....The Prom Date is all set...

Andrew

[slow4dr]

My neighbors already think I am crazy so I will be shutting the garage door and dropping the blinds for this mod.

[novanutcase]

My neighbors already think I am crazy so I will be shutting the garage door and dropping the blinds for this mod.

Make sure you have a video camera rolling when you roll the car out of the garage all shiny so that you can record:jawdrop: when they see the results!

[novanutcase]

After hours upon hours of reading The Rust-Oleum Stop Rust is the same as Tremclad, There both Alkyd oil based... But you need to Buy some Mineral Spirits to thin the paint out

That being said im off to a hardware shop to do some shopping :yeah:

Post some pictures of your results!!!

[andrewb70]

My neighbors already think I am crazy so I will be shutting the garage door and dropping the blinds for this mod.

No way man! I would do it by the sidewalk.

Andrew

[Boulder69]

Speaking of, what ever happened to the ol' mazda? Post smashy rebuild with a $50 paint job?

[MuscleRodz]

At the very end he wonders about the long term durability. Well, I will tell you my neighbor who builds wrought iron gates won't use it because it dies out inside a year. Why go to all that work and cheap out on the paint? You could buy good paint and roll it on, get the same results with the same amount of work, and would last for years?

[Project69]

At the very end he wonders about the long term durability. Well, I will tell you my neighbor who builds wrought iron gates won't use it because it dies out inside a year. Why go to all that work and cheap out on the paint? You could buy good paint and roll it on, get the same results with the same amount of work, and would last for years?


Well thats where you right on the paint he uses, but i bought there industrial paint (the they use it on rollercoaster tracks) so you know its gonna last damn near FOREVER!!! :yeah: haha

[ProTouring442]

Others have thought about using boat paint. Makes sense, boats get constant sun light as well as salt water spray. In the end, it will still be all about the prep and taking your time to do it right. Rush it and it will look awful!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"
www.FQuick.com/ProTouring442 (http://www.fquick.com/ProTouring442)

[Tom Welch]

Over 100 pages of posts on the Mopar site, Wow. I'm experimenting with gloss black marine paint. I am interested, real interested.

[novanutcase]

Over 100 pages of posts on the Mopar site, Wow. I'm experimenting with gloss black marine paint. I am interested, real interested.

Post pics and try and keep detailed records of the mix ratios, brush techniques, etc.

Thanks!

John

[LowBuckX]

Cant wait for the build up/paint up. I use the Rust stop rattle cans for many things and find it the best most durable rattle can paint Ive found. Im sure the non rattle can stuff is even better.

[Tom Welch]

Dont hold your breath waiting for pics. This is gonna take a while to get sorted out properly. I can tell you that it works though. I have finished a small spot on my old firebird hood and it polished out almost perfectly. The observation I can currently make is that patience and practice are key to making this work. Oh yeah, we don't need no stinking brushes, I think.

[novanutcase]

Dont hold your breath waiting for pics. This is gonna take a while to get sorted out properly. I can tell you that it works though. I have finished a small spot on my old firebird hood and it polished out almost perfectly. The observation I can currently make is that patience and practice are key to making this work. Oh yeah, we don't need no stinking brushes, I think.

DING!!!! YIPPPPEEEE!!!! At least show us what you have so far!!!:bsjerk:

[jsconiers]

Did you see this?

Heres the scoop between Rustoleum Paint, ( made in the USA), and Tremclad Paint, made in Toronto Ontario Canada (aka Hogtown). The Rustoleum Corporation USA owns the Tremclad operation in Canada. The Tremclad paint is made in Canada in thier plant in The City of Toronto. It is a very diffferent paint than Rustoleun, both are made, sold and marketed as a rust paint, that you can use over metal wood fibreglass,wives , kids, bosses etc, sticks like!!!!!!!!! to a blanket. The resin in Tremclad is of a long oil base in chemical nature, thus does well when thinned with mineral spirits. The Tremclad company recommends you thin this paint to 10% for the purpose of spray application, usually 1 or 2 coats. The roller technique, employed by people like us was unknoun to the Tremclad chemists. But they did state, that by using the paint this way would infact create a very good bond,very hard surface and a nice finish to work with. So I believe Charger has been very ingenious in discovering this method, ( should be patented), so hats off to you Charger. Now getting back to the Rustoleum paint made and sold in the USA, it is of an arcrylic resin in its basic chemical make-up, so there is definately a difference in the 2 paints, which could be why some results in this application may vary. I hope this helps some of you guys with your questions. You will not be able to buy Tremclad in you retail stores that sell Rustoleum, but you could have Rustoleum order it for you I believe

[novanutcase]

Supposedly they are both Alkyd based paints so they are virtually the same if this is the case!:enguard:

[MonzaRacer]

Hey guys all you got to do is go to your local farm store and look for implememnt paint. Van Sickle is one company and my buddy used it to paint his 73 Camaro race car and it looked great. first time he had no real primer except rattle can wally world. Seconfd time couple years again (to fix scratches) he used hardner(its sold in same area as paint supplies)and it makes the paint lay down great ,justremember it need time to dry ,like over night or better. The hardner does speed it up and it uses Naptha as the thining agent. My Monza will most likely have it first paint job done in this paint unless I get a good deal on fleet Paint.
I have seen people even tint and metallic/metal flake the implememt paint.
Im thinking of fleet yellow with a large dose of a contrasting mica(used like pearls )added and amybe even a coat of high solids clear as I have better luck with high solids holding up and taking a shine with very little buffing/prep.
good Luck
Lee Abel

[68Formula]

Any idea how hard it is to remove compared to normal automotive paints?

[HILROD]

The rustoliem isn't as durable and doesn't dry as hard. Even worse when thinned. I have tried to thin it with different things. It doesn't work very good.

[quicksilver69]

thats what i heard

[Twin_Turbo]

a guy on corvetteforum.com did the same in the C3 section on his yellow chrome bumper vette. Do a search there, I'm pretty sure he used that rustoleum thermclad stuff also. From the pics the result looked to be very nice

[Project69]

Well I just laid down my first 2 coats and after 4 hours of drying it looks nice

but tomorrow I gotta wet-sand it down and see where im at...and for durablility.....it passed the fingernail test lol

[rocketrod]

Well I just laid down my first 2 coats and after 4 hours of drying it looks nice

but tomorrow I gotta wet-sand it down and see where im at...and for durablility.....it passed the fingernail test lol
Cool! What did you paint and post pics if possible.

Does anyone know how well this will hold up to brake fluid?

[Project69]

Im painting my 69 camaro, and i used the Rust-O-leum professional Gloss black part number 7779 i think...and ill get some pics up asap.

[MonzaRacer]

One thing that hurts rust o leum is the "fish oil base" it has an oil base to retard rust and corrosion, if its applied properly it will dry and hold up great but does fade some in strong sunlight. And it will peel and buckle if you get anything on it very strong.
I would use it for frames and suspension parts/small parts but I would actually use implement paint as it can be hardened and it is designed to be used outside.
A rust o leum rep told me it wasnt really great to use on a car body and gave me several reasons but he said they had many many letter from people who raved about using it (as i had ask about a slightly better grade of paint just for cars) on vehicles.
anyway i like implement as its only 20 bucks a gallon and one pint of hardner will do a gallon and have paint left over after painting a 73 Camaro (my buddies was a Allis Chalmers Orange,,, looked just like Hugger orange to me) and it really shined good and held up well.
Lee Abel

[novanutcase]

One thing that hurts rust o leum is the "fish oil base" it has an oil base to retard rust and corrosion, if its applied properly it will dry and hold up great but does fade some in strong sunlight. And it will peel and buckle if you get anything on it very strong.
I would use it for frames and suspension parts/small parts but I would actually use implement paint as it can be hardened and it is designed to be used outside.
A rust o leum rep told me it wasnt really great to use on a car body and gave me several reasons but he said they had many many letter from people who raved about using it (as i had ask about a slightly better grade of paint just for cars) on vehicles.
anyway i like implement as its only 20 bucks a gallon and one pint of hardner will do a gallon and have paint left over after painting a 73 Camaro (my buddies was a Allis Chalmers Orange,,, looked just like Hugger orange to me) and it really shined good and held up well.
Lee Abel

Great info!!! Will keep it in mind when I do mine!!!

[Satatic]

My friend sprayed his truck with a bright yellow implament paint from farm and fleet. But it did fade, its more of a butternut yellow now.

[1971novaSS]

Only plroblem is no UV protection in this paint. Will more then likely fade easily or easier then auto paint, i believe the polished finish goes away pretty fast from reading the mopar forum all the way through. The guy with the charger states many times that he polishes it every once in a while. Just a word of caution. But if your bored then would be interesting to see results.

Rennskii :cheers:

[indyjps]

I wouldnt think of using this paint through a gun on a car. Ive used implement paint many times to paint exterior doors, garage doors, sheds etc. it shoots pretty poorly.
Ive read 60 pages of the mopar link, mostly for entertainment.
If you go thru the time to prep the car correctly, shooting it is the best idea you can get $40/gallon auto paint in a wide variety of colors.
I would really only try this on a beater driver/shop truck or a race car that was going to get stickered up anyway. I'd still probably shoot it in a driveway with the proper cheap paint.
I actually encourage anyone to buy a cheap gun from harbor freight, a gallon of $30 black single stage off of ebay and start shooting some spare panels. you can learn a lot once you try it and youre only out $70 total with a gun good enough to shoot engine compartments and suspension pieces.

[Tom Welch]

So far the experiment with gloss black marine enamel is working quite well. I have been able to obtain a mirror finish using a brush and using a hi-density foam roller. The paint does take a while to dry and attention must be paid to address the runs that you will inevitably have when doing this type of painting. The technique that I have had success with is to wait about 15-20 minutes after painting a coat, using a brush that is sitting in mineral spirits, go over the problem areas with a wet brush and lightly brush the entire panel with mineral spirits. This smooths out almost any imperfection and it seems to speed drying a little. I've done it several times on my 'test hood' and it works pretty good. I am inclined to agree with the 'spraying is better' crowd for a really good car or a show car, but for a daily driver this is the deal for me.

[glock73110]

I'm trying it on the hunting truck

[68sixspeed]

We use to paint race cars "Mack" truck red- it was only like $80 a gallon which is a steal for red. It does chalk on dump trucks after a few years, but who ever waxed a dump truck. On stock cars, it never mattered- the panels didn't live that long!

[ProTour67CAMARO]

As you can see this really looks good.
Just follow the tips given buy the mopar guys.
the wet sanding sux but it is worth the money.

[68Formula]

Can you paint over existing, or do you need to strip it down to primer first since it would be different than the base paint?

[Tom Welch]

Follow the guidelines on the paint you choose. Several marine topside paints give fairly easy to do prep options. A good primer should work well for most of 'em.

[71dusterdan]

okay my .02 this is awesome, and i caught it on moparts some time ago. not sure if i have the stones to try it, but i am debating it. on a side note duplicolor(yeah that company we all make fun of, but they must be paying some high dollar builders to use and talk about. steve stroppe comes to mind, i have seen stuff in phr i think lately also.)has a line of paint made to be used as a profesional product with mixing and spraying etc. i found it at the car parts store for $35 a gallon, any color they offered, red black white, whatevetr, $35. They had limited colors but at 35 bucks a gallon you can afford to mess up and do it over. I actually intend to paint my daily driver 5th ave" boxcar willie" with this stuff as sson as the weather breaks, then i am going to paint my f250 to make it look respectable before i bring it home to surprise the wife, with the new truck purchase.(better to ask forgiveness than to try and ask for permission, i'll take pics of the shiner she gives me) if all goes well ,well you guessed it the duster will get it also. i figure each car will be two toned for less than 2 bills each.

[s4dustin]

ok, tried the first 2 coats on a fender piece i had laying around. cleaned it, cut the rustoleum with mineral spirits, 50-50, rolled on, let stand for 15 min, then rolled it again to get off the bubbles...did the blowing on it trick (yea yea yea) let it dry. An hour later, put on second coat. Stopped there. It sat for about 6 hours and it wont rub off or scratch off with finger nail. Tomorrow, will do the first wet sand and 2 more coats. If it works, i am going to do my 68 camaro this way. I also spoke with a friend who says i should use the marine paint he used on his boat. This guy has painted a couple of hundred cars and says "yeah, you can use a roller, there is no overspray and prep is a lot less"....... here are some pics

panel
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT00241-1.jpg
lst coat
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT00281-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT00292-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT00301-1.jpg
second coat
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT00311-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT00312-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0033-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/03/PICT0034-1.jpg
it has a nice gloss to it, you can see your reflection in the paint. still need to wet sand and then do coats 3-6

[TonyL]

well??? how's it' looking now?

[Posi12Bolt]

looks like I found a paint option for my beaters! thanks

[1FstChevy]

This is very interesting.... Clearly it looks like poo with only a coat or 2 on there but the shine looks pretty good, perhaps my Buick might recieve this treatment? So whats the huge advantage of this stuff besides being cheaper? is it more durable???

[chdnny]

s4dustin, did you get a bit further? anymore pics?

[71Formula]

I read that post almost a year ago now, it was alot shorter back then. I tried it out on a 1990 Firebird, with thinned down Tremclad. The results were amazing, when I took the time to do it correctly, and horrible when I was in a rush.

The $60 or so I spent on it raised the selling price of the car an easy $2000, so it was more than worth it to me. One thing that should be mentioned is that it is a VERY hard paint, if you let it fully dry before sanding it is alot of work to sand it down. That said it looked great, and was far more durable than the original factory paint. Please note that this car was black, so theoretically a difficult color to paint, but it went on well, and the way the paint smooths out removes any chance of roller lines in the paint, it is quite fun to watch.

[68Formula]

Time to revive this thread. A magazine finally did it. Check out Hot Rod. Could this be the beginning of Candy Apple Red Rustoleum?:rotfl:

[4birdman]

I've been meaning to try this on my 79 TA, but just haven't gotten around to it yet.

[Piet]

OK... this thread really caught my attention.
I painted my 88 Suburban with Tremclad in the rattle cans.
I did the factory two tone (Red and Grey)

It turned out AWSOME! I saw it driving around last year (7 years after paint job... and it still looks really good). I was stunned.

This sounds even funner!

[MonzaRacer]

I have pics of my buddys 73 Camaro, he painted it with Van Sickle AC Orange, his first paintjob didnt get hardened, so about 8 months later (the next spring) he reshoots it with hardener. That stuff was tough, it was super shiney and held up great till the day he traded it off for a couple of VW dunhe buggys. Bad trade.
I intend to paint my Monza with transport yellow nad hardner, IF I can find different paint cheaper than the $19.99 a gallon and a pint of hardner for $9.99 then I'll use it but till then,,, $50 paintjobs will rock this fellas "garage" ooppss I guess I need to build one first.
Lee

[JMarsa]

yellow nad hardner

I don't care what color it is, I'm staying away from that stuff.....

--JMarsa

[Leadfoot1]

Yeah!

Coats 3-6 please!

Lead.

[MonzaRacer]

Guys you can poo poo the implement enamel but most forget that this type of paint used to be the norm.
Dont get me wrong the newer stuff is faster ,dries quicker, and after a time may look better with less maintenance.
BUT if I can paint my car for say $100 and it looks good for 2 yrs that would give me time to save for high end paint and put money back to get my garage built and outfitted. Then I will paint my car and fix all the little ooppss it gets.
Dont get me wrong, this isnt gonna get a 1000 point concours restoration any paint awards,,,,BUT it will protect, with care and maintenace it will survive very wellI have seen it.
Yes this stuff (the implement enamel) takes longer to dry, but figure this ,,,if it gets scratched you could repaint the whole car with minore prep work again in a weekend (or over the time of a week as it does take a day or two to dry).
I ask one restorer what he uses and he showed me a mix wall with RUSTOLEUM on it, he uses it on the insides.
He mixes it to match the exterior color as close as he can. The rustoleum holds up better and the anti rust componenet is better for the inside too.
A friend of mine is trying to finish his 66 Impalla for car show this weekend and the interior is all Rustoleum and it looks spectacular!
If he comes by since I am broke for weekend and cant go to car show I will try to get pics.
As for UV protection there is one tractor I know of that the owners sone painted in tech school and then used a white scotchbrite pad to lightly scuff it and shot a high soids clear on it to protect the tractor as it sits outside, otherthan a few streaks from the stacks rust running down and a few dirty spots from fuel it shines real nice. The clear tric is to let it sit out for several weeks to finish offgassing as naptha takes time to vent or evaporate then as it was well cured he shot it with the clear that was compatible with singlestage enamel.
Actually the only difference is the VOC carrier (ie naptha over enamel reducer or laquer thinner).
Also the boy reshot his dads grain truck and it shines real good and nevergets washed except every July 4th as they take the sides off and use it for parade mobile.

oh and to all the naysayers if you wanna dump $3500 to $7500 in a paint job so be it, but if you dont want to save a few thousand and try this dont knock us lesser employed folks who want something good without having to go broke and sell the new born and rent out the dog to families for family pictures.
Besides if we get a good result then we will crow if not the roller will get broke out and the car will be suede for a while longer.
Now as for the tractor paint not holding up even unhardened my buddies Camaro shined and held up ,,heck the first time he shot it he never even used any primer and the second time it was a case of wal mart gray!
The second time it held up a lot better(less scratchable) as it had hardner in it and boy did it shine!
several people saw it and wondered why we kept having engine problems but the car was painted.
Long live the cheap paint job! Earl Schieb was my hero,, heck even Maaco does a good job but spend a little more on prep and quality paint.
Schieb would paint your car, trim, bumpers, grill rust and all with thier patented paint all for $99.99.
They even had a dent estimator (read the depth as they would simply mud it in then smooth it out with saran wrap or wax paper,, then guick air file and some sealer and the paint job.
Lee Abel

[muthstryker]

any updates on this? im going to try it on my GTO trunk lid just to see if i should do it to the regal im going to buy from a friend.

[Tom Welch]

I'll never knock a guy that can spray a good paint job, BUT, I currently have in my shop a 68 Camaro that has a locally done 4000.00 paint job that I would gladly pay about 200.00 for. Holes not properly filled, seams not cleaned prior to paint, body work not even looked at, cracks forming in the filled seams below the rear window and at the bottom of the tail panel. Front bumper incorrectly installed, overspray all over engine and gas tank and leaf springs with no effort to cover or remove it except for some spraybomb black on the gas tank that is transparent, the red shows up real good. I had a lengthy conversation with the customer about the car and he is in heaven as far as paint and bodywork go. I didnt have it in me to bring him down, so his car looks awesome. I know where not to recommend people to for paint. Uh, Oh better get M****. This is part of the reason I will paint my car with a brush. I can do it several times with the most expensive marine urethane 2 part enamel before I get within a mile of 4000.00. Further research into the good painter issue reveals that a real good paint job with appropriate body work can be had for 4000.00. But it's still 4000.00, which is too much for me at this point. Which is another reason I'm doing it the hard way.

[MonzaRacer]

I have found my stash of implement enamel quarts and I think I may give a few colors a try to see what works if this paint hasnt went bad from freezing.
I have 2 blues and 2 reds and some zinc chromate primer. I am gonna find out if I can use my compresser at my brothers and do sme test panels after payday and I get a little naptha. And shake the paint and see if its good.
I was going to take pics of the red I painted my old Camaro deck lid with but the guy I traded it to has already sold it.
It was 2 or 3 yrs old when I traded it and it looked no worse than any of the other paint and the one time I cleaned and waxed it (it was implement paint but from a spray can)and shined right up.
and as for not having any UV inhibiters I did find out from Van Sickle they do put UV inhibitors in the mix.
Pics to follow soon.
Lee Abel

[muthstryker]

welll guys i gave it a shot but it appears that i put it on too thick. i made the paint just like water, and used a 1/2 cup of the mix. most of the bubbles are gone or are still popping as im posting this. it was my first attemp. (NO I will NOT be painting my GTO with this method, i used the GTO trunk lid because it needs replaced anyways.)

here are some pics you can already see my garage door in one pic ture

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/6ftoeh4-1.jpg
yes the garage is a mess i know.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/4y9zxa1-1.jpg

[evan]

Based on everything I've read this method is 90% sanding. Don't make your final judgment yet.

[muthstryker]

im just affraid i put to much down at first, all the bubbles are now gone as of 2:30 am. with the black paint it really shows alot of scratchs on the trunk lid stuff i didnt see. little ones i dont know how to take care of. if i do this method on the regal i will prep the car just as you would with a high dollar paint job, i have to take some time off this summer says the boss so maybe i can get it done

[Piet]

Based on everything I've read this method is 90% sanding. Don't make your final judgment yet.

Totally Accurate. It is amazing what elbow grease does to a paintjob.

I painted my 1988 Suburban with rattle cans... I did the red with Tremclad, I did the grey with duplicolor. After the powerbuffing, and pinstripes, it looked factory.

(FYI The tremclad paint WAY outlasted the duplicolor)

[muthstryker]

well so far this stuff holds up to my finger nail, credit card and the keys hardly even touched it. and its just the first coat. there are some things i will do differently befor i do this on anycar

[muthstryker]

the wet sanding is taking off the texture but i have to go get some more supplies. i will have pictures up tonight

[hectore3]

I'm really considering this Tremclad paint job also. I can't do any worse than the horrid "custom" paint jobs I see around here locally.

[MonzaRacer]

Actually I mix my paint and dip a paint stick in it and I try to have a smooth texture that wont run off too easy . I tend to keep my paint a little on the thicker side but not too.
I also try to not use higher amounts of air pressure. I find that give too much orange peel.
I also try to lay my paint as smooth as possible too.
Too many painters are used to painting to match factory orange peel and that looks like crap.
If you are getting bubbles try reducing the air pressure a little and maybe mix a tad thicker, but not too or orange peel shows.
and too thin will leave sags and runs.
Good luck,
Lee

[muthstryker]

i noticed that after the first 2 coats and wetsand, if you keep on rolling on the 3rd coat nonstop just keep doing it the bubbles will go away and you will have little to no orange peel. i think 2-3 more coats would be good.

[MonzaRacer]

Dude that paint can be put on very thick and then you can color sand with progresive grits of sand paper then buff.
The big trick is on the final sanding of the primer is using a 600 grit over the rougher grades as since the synthetic enamel is a slower drying paint it CAN cause sand scratch swelling and require more final finish work .
Also dont worry about the film thickness as the paint does require a little extra film to protect and be finished out.
Good luck
Lee

[novanutcase]

*****I posted this in another thread that I started but I thought that this one was more appropriate seeing as how Muthstryker is actually doing it. I figure if two people do it we can all see what the results and pitfalls are that each one of us runs into!*****

End of the day and I have to say that I have a new found respect for Paint & Body! I thought I would start on the hood and see how it turns out. I guess I'm going to have to spring for a buffer! I bought enough supplies to paint the whole car but a quart of the paint is probably more than enough to paint one car! Total cost for materials and equipment:

Ryobi Orbital Sander - $77.23
Sandpaper for Orbital Sander - $6.79
Rustoleum Professional Black/1 Gal. - $36.18
4" Hot Dog Rollers(5 pack) and Applicator/ w Hot Dog Roller on it- $8.59
Mini paint pans(3) - $3.73
Wet Dry Sandpaper Packs 320/400/600 - $9.89
Tack Cloth(2 packs) - $1.98

Total(So far)- $144.39

Got all the clearcoat off and smoothed and feathered any raised or low areas as best I could!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/SandFront-1.jpg

Masked, Taped and Tacked! Ready for paint! I didn't prime it since the original thread said primer was not necessary!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/TackedPassenger-1.jpg

1st Coat
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/1stCoatDriver-1.jpg

Many people have commented on what they felt was the ideal Paint to Mineral Spirits ratio. As I was mixing it seems that a 70% Paint/30% Mineral Spirits is a good mix. I guess we'll see but I'm glad I went a little heavier on the paint since the hood of my car has many contours and if I would have mixed it any thinner it would have run all over the place. I guess the best way to describe the mix I did was to make it a little thicker than milk. I was also worried about whatever excess paint I had would dry up along with having to constantly be cleaning the roller so I just used ziploc bags to keep them moist!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2007/06/PaintPreserve-1.jpg

Next up.......color sanding.......Oh Goodie!!!:squint: :)

John

[muthstryker]

haha, john the fun part is color sanding! lol..

i havent done any more then the 3rd coat i havent had time to run to the autobody supply store and pick up 1000-2000 grit wetsand paper as homedepot doesnt carry it. hopfully i will get it really soon. i will say the 3rd coat already looks good, only problem is the little dings in the trunk lid that stand out. i didnt want to put to much time into the lid as its acutally being tossed out. but i will try and get some more pictures up by the end of the week.

[novanutcase]

Someone told me that they think that I should put a second coat before starting to color sand. What do you think!

John

[muthstryker]

well john i put my paint on thick the first coat and it was a PITA to sand thru the second coat to get rid of the orange peel, sand the first coat then put on a second coat, i found out that if you keep on rolling after there is no more paint on the roller, the bubbles will go away. completely and there will be much less sanding to do.

[novanutcase]

well john i put my paint on thick the first coat and it was a PITA to sand thru the second coat to get rid of the orange peel, sand the first coat then put on a second coat, i found out that if you keep on rolling after there is no more paint on the roller, the bubbles will go away. completely and there will be much less sanding to do.

I didn't really have an issue with bubbles! Sure, when you're rolling it on it bubbles but with a little light blowing on them most went away and whatever was left went away too. Maybe it has to do with the thinning of the paint that it leaves time for the bubbles to dissipate?
I think I'm going to put a second coat on since it is pretty thin versus your thick coat. I'll try and put it on tomorrow and sand the day after. I'll post pics of my results.

John

[rohrt]

Some one tell me why this is better then Single stage urathane sprayed from a gun? Seems like your putting in just as much work sanding, just as much work tapping off panels and just as much work preping the car. Is it just the cost of the paint?

Some of the results do look good.

[bretcopsey]

Some one tell me why this is better then Single stage urathane sprayed from a gun? Seems like your putting in just as much work sanding, just as much work tapping off panels and just as much work preping the car. Is it just the cost of the paint?

Some of the results do look good.

Benefits as I see them:

If you don't already have a compressor and gun, you avoid that expense

There is no overspray to contend with-so this can be done in a home garage or in the driveway without ticking off the wife/neighbors

and possibly less chance of getting dirt in the paint assuming doing this in the garage/driveway since you're not using a compressor and dragging around a hose etc??

I still don't know if I would have the patience myself...

[novanutcase]

Benefits as I see them:

If you don't already have a compressor and gun, you avoid that expense

There is no overspray to contend with-so this can be done in a home garage or in the driveway without ticking off the wife/neighbors

and possibly less chance of getting dirt in the paint assuming doing this in the garage/driveway since you're not using a compressor and dragging around a hose etc??

I still don't know if I would have the patience myself...

That pretty much sums it up for me!

I also want to see if it actually works! Another benefit is I can do it one panel at a time and still drive the car!

John

[MonzaRacer]

Also the fact that for the price of maybe a single bottle of urethane hardner or reducer (and depending on your time painting you may require several speeds) you can have ALL of your supplies bought.
My buddy painted his old 73 Camaro and had:
$19.99 paint gal and this painted the car TWICE
$18.99 hardner pt THIS WAS USED ON SECOND PAINT JOB
$7.99 x 2 Naptha (and most was actually used for parts cleaning and very little for the actual paint job)
$15.00 misc paint supplies
= $69.96 plus time for prep
Now I painted the DOG HOUSE of a 90 Grand Am that I bought wrecked off a friend.
That job cost:
$22.99 pint paint
$24.99 reducer (generic for base only and cleaning)
$39.80 High solids clear QT
$19.99 clear hardner PT
$21.89 clear coat reducer
SO $129.66 less other supplies, primer/surfacer, laquer thinner etc.
Which for the information pinted the nose, fender and hood with VERY little left of the base.
I still have a some of the harnder and reducer and its been something like 8 or 9 yeras since I did that one.
Most current paint jobs in urethane single stage are using any where from $500 on up in painting supplies ,let alone the prep materials.
We figured up what my buddy paid for when another friend painted the dog house after swapping it out after a deer strike.
We had a qt of color mixed, bought etching epoxy primer sealer as the old fenders he bought did have a slight amount of surface rust,primer surfacer, sealer,metal etch,wax and grease remover,tack rags,etc, misc sand paper, masking paper, tape ,single stage blue and a 50 lb bag of play sand he used through my partable blaster to take off the rust.
We had a full week of part time prep after work and one full day of combined prep to get ready.
Then rolling it in and setting up and we shot it (yes we as there was all 3 of us working) all in one day.(except the first 2 coats of etching primer which got shot the night before).
The insurance estimated the repair at $5800 approx.
We got the dog house, new rad, custom head lights and grill for $980, add on another $879 in materials and this was almost a $2000 job for JUST THE DOG HOUSE.My buddy did all the elbow grease between coats and I did all the mixing, cleaning and such between coats of paint and critiqued the shooting as our friend USED to paint but his eye sight has issues as he welded too much without a helmet of the years.
I could have used newsprint end rolls(my buddy works for local paper) for the masking, and less than $150 in paint supplies
This was a basic blue single stage paint job and took way too much time to accomplish (he figured we could do all of it in one day and we had about $0 hrs in the whole project.
Yes we are going to do a real good wet sand, seal, and shoot of the rest of the truck and will probably only need another 2 qts of paint and gal reducer and some hardner but this is a major production and a far cry from the what $100 to paint my buddies race car and he did it twice from same gallon of paint.
Dang boys you got $3k plus to repaint your car(and this would be with minimal repair work) go for it BUT if you can use some elbow grease and make it a 10 footer for less than a hundred bucks, then save for a better paint job later on then your gonna have a lot more fun.
My buddy built a 66 Chevy II that he bought for $10k, added another $20k PLUS the nitroused 383/700r4 makig this proabaly a $40k pluss car,,, and all it needed was a paint job and some minor detail work.
I am glad some of the fellas on here have the golden bank roll to fling at a painter to do some paint/body work.
IF you have it God bless you. BUT I DONT and the $100 paint job is the most likely way my car will ever be painted unless I do it in suede.
Lee