Tranny / gear suggestions

[jerebus67]

Ok it is november in IL and I am looking for a winter project for my Convert.
I dont want to spend a ton but looking for suggestions. I have a ZZ4 crate with a stock 350 turbo and 3.08 gears (stock rearend). I have a Demon 650 ZZ4 carb (not a fan) on it and it is pretty much a dog off the line. The interstate is a good time but wondered what you guys might suggest. I like the mileage I get on the interstate but wondered with a different tranny and some 3.73's could I get the same mileage? I drive it quite a bit in the summer.

[6'9"Witha69]

Any OD trans (ie 700-R4 or 200-4R) with 3.55s are great and result in better mileage than your current setup. You could even go 3.73s and get ~ the same as current mileage with more off the line ooomph. If you do go the 700-R4 route do 3.73s though, since the 3.06:1 first gear offers a lot of tq mult off the line.

[USAZR1]

A TKO-500 would work well with that 3.08 rear,if you decide to switch to a manual trans.
A 700R4 would work well with that 3.08 rear,also. A 200-4R with 3.73 cog would be a great combo,too.

[jerebus67]

Ok I am sold on doing this the only question now is Auto or Manual.

IF I go the auto route is my best bet going through a Jegs or Summit? would you go with the TCI-371000 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI%2D371000&N=700+4294839071+4294861220+4294903956+115&autoview=sku) unit?

IF I were to dabble into going with a manual who provides the biggest bang for the buck. Remember I am only putting out 355HP
Easiest conversion kit?

[Mike Snyder]

RE manual, How do you feel about the possibility of having to cut your floor/trans tunnel to fit a TKO.

The 700R4 offers a 3.08 First gear as compared to the 200R4 which I believe is a 2.74. The 2.74 would be more traction friendly gear, especially when combined with a 3.73 rear.

Seriously consider the TH200-R4 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI%2D381500&N=700+400252+303978+4294904007+4294865429+115&autoview=sku),

Benefits:

Its a direct bolt in swap for the TH350. Same length, same output shaft configuration, Existing drive shaft bolts up.

I don't know about a 69 trans cross member. In the second gen I believe they cut the mount bracket off of the cross member and re-weld it to the other side.

Speedo is a direct hook up, as well I believe gear linkage.

The differences:

The trans cooler lines are reversed on the 200R4. In is out and out is in.

The TV Cable. Do a web search on "Bowtie overdrives" for a possible solution.

Shifter, there are companies that make kits to modify the factory shifter, to give you a detent and indicator bezel for the overdrive.

There are simple electrical circuits diagrams and Kits available to take advantage of a lockup torque converter

The 700R4 has all of the differences of the 200R4 and none of the benefits.

Michael

[Mike Snyder]

If you do go the 700-R4 route do 3.73s though, since the 3.06:1 first gear offers a lot of tq mult off the line.

Huh?

Did you mean, do go with 3.55s?


A 700R4 would work well with that 3.08 rear.

Would the OD gear be usable at legal highway speeds?


The one thing I see a lot on the forums is the "If I put in an OD I can run the 3.73, 3.83, 4.11 and still get good mileage"

The thing that seldom gets consideration is "what is that gear doing for/to you in first, second and third gear?"

For a DD or frequent cruiser this is an important consideration!

Michael

[Bandit]

A TKO would give you the best of all worlds, and you could run 4:11's if you want, but with 3:73's I am sure you would get as good or better mileage than you're getting now.
I still have my 3:08's in my car and I HATE it--she needs way steeper gears. Right now 5th is totally useless, I am running about 1800 rpm at 80 mph! And first gear lugs really bad at under 20mph. It is crying for 3:73's...

Paul

[6'9"Witha69]

Huh?

Did you mean, do go with 3.55s?



Would the OD gear be usable at legal highway speeds?


The one thing I see a lot on the forums is the "If I put in an OD I can run the 3.73, 3.83, 4.11 and still get good mileage"

The thing that seldom gets consideration is "what is that gear doing for/to you in first, second and third gear?"

For a DD or frequent cruiser this is an important consideration!

MichaelI meant DON'T go 3.73s, got me there.
OD gear is very usable at Legal highway speeds.
If you go Manual, go Tremec TKO 500 or 600 if you plan on going up in power in the future. If you go auto, don't go TCI or B&M, buy from a reputable builder like Bowler, Bowtie Overdrives, CPT (California Performance Transmission), etc.

[jerebus67]

Thanks for all the input guys. So one more question?

so it looks like would be around 4K to go with the TKO500 and around 3K to go with the automatic from Bowler.

I assume the extra 1K is probably worth it going with the manual, I would assume resell value (not planning on selling) would be higher with the manual??

What you guys think?

[Tiger]

For me its manual any day.

I'm using a D&D performance viper t56 (about $2800 without any parts) and 4,10/4,11 gears in my Corvette axle.
in sixth (0,50) the 4,10 is a 2,05 :o)
at 650ft/lbs it might be a bit overkill..
and I dont know if a t56 will fit under your floor...

I doubt that you can rebuild your rear (hehehe, that is your cars rearend), buy a t56, bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, driveshaft and pedals and stay withing $4000 (I'm not sure if that was your goal or if it was just a random figure)

[Bandit]

I weighed this out for quite awhile too before I went with a TKO, and I couldnt be happier with my decision. A stick is so much more fun to drive, saves horsepower, and looks much cooler inside the interior to boot. Yes, you may be able to save a little with a manual but not enough to make it worthwile in my book. The way I figured it these were my options for good OD trannies (only new and capable of handling 500+ hp would do):
700 r4, 200 4r - Cheapest, but ruled them out because they just aren't as inherently strong enough. The ones that ARE built to handle the big HP cost about as much as a TKO when all is said and done.
4L80E - Plenty tough, but about the same price as TKO with torque converter, computer, etc
TKO - Expensive but tough, a lot more fun, and better gear selection-winner!

The TKO will reward you in many ways--although, is there any reason you wouldn't go with the TKO 600? The 600 is the big daddy and it's worth the couple hundred bucks extra. I assume one of your reasons is you want the lower first gear ratio of the TKO 500 to match your 3:08 rear gears. But you should be planning to ditch those gas mileage gears and put 3:55's or 3:73's in there anyway. Then your gearing with the TKO 600 would be pretty much perfect for all-around use. If you decide on the TKO 500 now and you later go with a steeper rear ratio, you may find that first gear is too steep. Just a thought. Also, consider your overdrive, the .64 will give you the best mileage, but will be basically useless until you swap out those rearend gears.
So to sum it up: Get the TKO 600 (or 500 if you must), and plan on swapping your rear gears! You will not be sorry!

As far as resale value goes: With a stick, there is the possibility of losing the type of buyer with money who can't, or won't drive a manual. But, a 5-speed manual will always be a huge selling point on any modded musclecar, because you don't see them too often, most gearheads prefer them, and I think the vast majority of buyers would want it.

[jerebus67]

Thanks for the info Bandit. That is exactly the question I just shot Kiesler whether or not to just bump it up to the 600. Thanks for your info, I am sold on it.