PDA

View Full Version : Holley Street avenger



Madspeed
10-31-2006, 09:20 PM
Has anyone used a street avenger carb?
I have one for a 383 for a customer and I am told it is complete junk.
They say the Idle cuircits are horrible

Jims78elky
11-01-2006, 01:35 AM
I have a buddy that has one on his truck,same,a 383 870cfm and
he loves it,i have been in the truck with him and it does alright.
I would probably prefer there HP series of carbs better,just my
opinion though on a 383 or bigger.I really like the Demon carbs
but i haven't ran a carb in 10 years and iam a little out of touch
with what's good these days...:help:


Holley HP carbs

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/510O82750.jpg


-Jim

Madspeed
11-01-2006, 08:33 AM
Thanks for the input.
Im an F.I. guy myself

sporter
11-01-2006, 07:18 PM
My old 870 SA was a decent carb but my 840 Qjet makes the same power with much better mpg.

MonzaRacer
11-05-2006, 07:56 PM
There is nothing wrong with holley carbs that a very complete read of tip on their web site cant help greatly. Like everyone making the wrong assumsion that a lower power valve opens sooner and this is backwards.
As a complete carb they are very nice in some respects and the reason for the slight flow boost is the new "ball" finish is a smoother surface to work with air flow! Who would have thought it, a smoother finish would give a 650 cfm carb a 670 cfm flow.
One thing is use a good vacuum guage for tuning it in. Get it running, then make sure your timing is good, set the floats running "in gear" is best on my opinion. Most Holleys are rich from the factory and with unleaded fuel the plugs should show very light tan coloring if not almost pure white. If you look at your ground electrode and its blue (like hot metal) go up 2 sizes. then let it cruise. I prefer to lower my powervalves till I feel a stumble as I punch it. I like to get my idle speed set and then make sure you can wiggle the pumparm(the one that touches the throttle shaft/accel cam and you dont get a drip from pump shooter.
One very good addition to these is a quick change vacuum secondary cover so you can hot swap the secondary springs. On aggresive ,yet smooth idling came especially hyd rollers I like to remove the check ball. My preference is to use older ideas and make a brass plug and press it into the smae hole the check ball come out of and then I drill a .035 hole in it and tune from there.
A vacuum secondary carb should never have the bwahhh bog when it opens if it does its wrong, period. you should never feel the secondaries open only an automatic trans downshift. you should only feel a very swift acceleration to redline.
I love my holleys but I still go swap meet scrouging for 780 3310s and go from there.
I just had to modify some center hung floats from one to fixe my 800CFM 4011 that sunk floats after being about 16-18 yrs old.
One(the secondaries) had the flot 3/4 full of gas, I tried to drill a couple of holes and use compressed air to dry it out and used a little too much, so its exploded in 3 or 4 pieces and so I thought 3310 floats would fit but they were to long from the axle to the float so I cut and soldered them, now I just need to get the holes in throttle blades closed up (added back on my 402 way back when and a bigger cam.
Anyway good luck and I hope your tuning goes ok, I also almost always use manifold vacuum to vacuum advance then reduce the idle AND mixture in drive so it runs good. If using a GM distributor I like to use stock weghts and either the lightest or next to lightes sprigs or a mix thereof.
SBC love timing in as fast as possible with out spark knock and centrifical in at or just below cruise speed, its best if it tops out atleast 200 to 400 rpm below cruise. And I use an adjustable vac advance and limit your total to just below spark knock threshold ,ie try to limit tip in spark knock(most chevies can handle at least 12 to 18 in initial timing and go from there, you can even have distributor modded to remove centrifical if it knocks under load, just remember to keep eye on plugs as they should be light brown/tan after a hard pass down track. If not just richen the secondaries(you may need to add a secondary metering block if it doesnt come with one as the metering plates suck to tune).
Good luck
Lee Abel