My LS1 Build.....

[trapin]

Well...I've already begun sourcing parts and I've decided to just stick with one manufacturer to eliminate confusion. I've settled on Texas Speed And Performance. I called them today and they were extremely helpful. Here is their recommendation for my application....

- Texas Speed Torquer V.3 Camshaft; 231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA.
- LS6 Intake with LS1 injectors and 78mm throttle body stock MAF.
- Texas Speed Stage I heads with double spring kit.
- Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods.
- GM LS2 Timing Chain.

About $2200 in parts. Not bad. He said this would be good for around 425rwhp and about 480 at the crank and would also have a nice lopey sound to it but would not be hard to idle. I also bought a brand new LS6 intake kit on eBay for $350 w/free shipping.

Can any of you LSx gurus look that over and see if you concur with the set up? Are the power figures right? I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

[BuddyP]

I'm interested in feedback also.

Tony, are the "stage 1" heads stock ported heads or aftermarket heads?

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

well i think that those stock injectors may max out at that power range ..i would recomend some 30#s if running a 6 speed as you may lean out at top end or they may go on full duty

[4MuscleMachines]

well i think that those stock injectors may max out at that power range ..i would recomend some 30#s if running a 6 speed as you may lean out at top end or they may go on full duty

Ditto, but everything else looks very good, even the conservative HP rating. TSP is a great choice as well as Scoggy Dickens (SP?) Wow, missed the lift on the cam, that's big.

[trapin]

The trans is a 4l60E. Would I still need bigger injectors?

[Steve68]

I think the cams too big, but you need to have Tony W check it out, he's the master,

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

holy ...i just looked at the .643 lift hehe ...im not sure if you have the clearance on a stock motor ...can you verify that number again

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

well i just read it on texas-speed.com and you do have the right specs now most likely i doubt that it would clear stock pistons so check up on that and also a stall would be recomended another thing too i doubt that a stock 4l60 will last you a while hehe

[trapin]

Yeah...I'm a little concerned on the cam myself, that's why I figured I would run it past you guys to see what you think. I told him I wanted a lopey engine, I don't want it to sound stock. I like my hot rods loud. He did a check on the stage II heads with the bigger valves and said I would need to clearance the pistons for that cam with those heads. Also...I do plan to have the 4L60E rebuilt. What do you recommend I do to it to make it stronger?

[Ralph LoGrasso]

Everything looks good, but that cam is a tad big IMO. Did he tell you what stall convertor to get to match the cam? Has to be atleast 2500?

[trapin]

I called them again today and they changed their tune. Now they say to go with the the Texas Speed Torquer II 232/234 .595/.598 with 113 lobe seperation. Then he suggested Edelbrock Terminator heads but they're about $800 more than the ones the other guy suggested. So I have the intake, the camshaft, the throttle body, the injector, the timing chain, and the pushrods that I'm going to use. I just need to nail down the heads.

They also recommended the TCI 3500 stall for my car. I have 4L60E, 3.73 gears, 26" tall tires.

[Steve68]

Now thats more like it!!! thats real close to the cam that I want to run, I like the AFRs, talk to Rupp thats what he has,

[pist0lpete]

If you want to have a nasty idle you may want to go down on your lsa. Something like a 110 would definitely have a nasty idle. This of course is also affected by lift etc but the lsa is a big factor. Just something to keep in mind because while that cam and a 113 lsa will be noticeable it could be made more noticeable.

[Payton King]

Also talk to Steve about the motor in Penny. The only difference in the LS2 and LS1 is about 20 cubic inches. I also think that TEA is a great company to deal with for heads. I have a set of their 5.3 stage 1.5 heads on my LS1. Flowed 316 at .600 lift on the intake side. I spoke with them the other day and I know they are making crazy power with the new Trick Flow head.

My motor should be firing in Dec, but I have the TEA heads shaved for a compression ratio of 11.3, 230-230 .597 on 110 lsa, fast 90 intake, fordged pistons and h beam rods. I am looking for at about 450 rwhp.

Heard good things about Texas Speed as well. The first cam you would have had to cut the pistons and it seemed a little much for an automatic. The tight LSA is going to give you the lope you want and it appears on a LSX motor it makes the best power.

[Steve68]

PK got a link for TEA??

[trapin]

So how does this look?

- Texas Speed Torquer II Camshaft; 232/234 .595/.598 with 113 lobe
seperation.
- LS6 Intake with LS1 injectors and 78mm throttle body stock MAF
(screen removed).
- PRC LS6 CNC Ported Heads; 2.00/1.55 with double springs
upgrade.
- Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods.
- GM LS2 Timing Chain.
- Ported LS6 oil pump.

Is this going to give me what I want (driveability, lopey sound, not difficult to idle) without having to notch the pistions? What kind of power to the rear wheels and crank can I hope to have with this setup? Also, they recommended a 3500 TCI convertor for my 4L60E trans. I have 3.73 gears and 26" tires.

Thanks guys, I see a light at the end of the tunnel here.

[pist0lpete]

That sounds like a great setup really. Should get you over 400 rwhp with a good tune. You may want to keep an eye on those stock injectors they may be running over 100% duty cycle at WOT. Alot of people run over 100% for many miles with no problems but it is a bit of a risky venture. You may want to read up on LS1tech about descreened maf sensors its a bit of a debate whether or not its worth the trouble.

[Payton King]

maybe a 2200 stall would be better. It is going to feel real soggy driving around with a 3500 stall not to mention you will generate a ton of heat in the fluid. Good set up for a street strip car, but not so hot for a pro-tour car.

TEA- www.totalengineairflow.com (http://www.totalengineairflow.com)

If you have not bought the MAF, I would go with a C5 Z06 MAF. 30lbs SVO injectors. You would pick up some HP with a FAST 90mm intake, but I see you have already bought the Z06 so run it.

There is a guy up your way named Shaun Carter he owns SMC Performance, Inc. Lots of new and used, stock and performance LS stuff. Give him a call 248-276-0483 I got some coil packs, valve covers, sensors, stock rockers, etc at great prices. He is in the Detroit area I believe.

As far as notching the pistons it is going to be close. Depends on thickness of head gasket, and how much they shave off the heads they (person you are getting heads from) should be able to tell you that.

That cam is pretty close to what Steve is running in Penny and I think he pulled 13 or 14 inches of vaccum at idle.

[trapin]

Payton, thanks for the number. I just called him and am a little confused now. He says the Torquer II cam is way too big for the intake I'm going to run and at 346 cubic inches. He suggested something in the 224/228 580 lift range with an lob around 112-114.

I think Texas Speed thinks I'm building a drag car. When I told him the first cam they suggested he just about choked on his sandwich.

Maybe I should give Patroit a call.

[Payton King]

I would call a couple of places and then make my decision. The customer service at TEA is fantastic and they have many proven combos with dyno numbers to back it up. TEA ports stock GM LS heads and aftermarket ones as well. I know my heads cost maybe $1400 and were the ticket for a hot street car 1.5 years ago...more things have come out since. I used the 5.3 head to get the compression up. Port design is same as the 5.7 head

Most companies have a CNC program that is porting their heads and each port design responds differently to different cams. They will test their head and find or have ground, a few different cams that optimize their port design. That way you have a proven combonation. Use head A with Cam B and you will make X Hp with dyno graph that looks like this.

I thought Texas speed was trying to hook you up with a drag set up with the 3500 stall and over .600 lift.

Tony Mamo at AFR is a good person to speak with as well.

It is hard not to chase every last hp when you are building a motor, but sometimes an extra $500 is not worth the extra 10 hp.

[Steve68]

I too was thinking drag combo from TSP, what if you run the Torquer II with the FAST intake?? with all the other stuff the same,

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

well on ls1s cams that have an lsa of 113 and up dont really sound choppy at all if anything depending on the tune sometimes you cant even notice it hehe ...you can always call thunder racing and they can grind a cam to your needs and likes hehe .Now on the injectors just to be safe i would go with 30s they can usually be found for cheap

[gEtyOpAPiOn]

you can always go to ls1sounds.com to find the right setup for you soundwise lol

[Rybar]

I'm running the TSP 233/239 112 cam on my stock 346 with a PRC dual valve spring kit. The car lopes real nice and I find it very easy to drive around town and in traffic. Although I have an M6. I also find that the car could use some more torque down low, so that tourqer II cam you were recommended looks good.

I have ET 215 heads on order that should bump my compression to over 11:1 and have a set of 1-3/4" LT's ready to go in as well as 36 # injectors.

I'd also recommend porting that stock TB if you are going to run the LS6 intake. And also bump up those injectors to 30 #'s

[isercastiK]

2200 stall isnt enough get a 3000 at minimum in a lsx application

[Damn True]

Can you make it sound like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrdFuRnJ45A

[pist0lpete]

Can you make it sound like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrdFuRnJ45A
You would have to talk to Katech about that. I believe they are the ones who build the motors for the Cts-V speed challenge series cars

[93Polo]

I had TEA heads on my C5 and loved them never a problem. They really like Futral cams too. I ran a F11 228/230 112+4 and it had a snotty lope. :) Midyear Corvette guys would come up at shows to tell they loved how it sounded and that their old side pipe car sounded like it when they were younger. The car turned 436rwhp and 415 rwtq with a 6 speed.

Also I have ordered parts from TSP and do not plan on dealing with them again. Parts arrived at seperate times and they seemed generally disorganized.

[pist0lpete]

Also I have ordered parts from TSP and do not plan on dealing with them again. Parts arrived at seperate times and they seemed generally disorganized.

Thats odd, I have ordered numerous parts including my cam from Texas Speed with great results. They have great customer service so far and in fact I called them up and placed an order for some forged pistons today.

[trapin]

Right now I'm looking at going through Livernois Motorsports. They're about an hour from my house and I can save a bunch on shipping. Plus they have a chassis dyno and do retuning services for PCM's and they're prices are reasonable.

[Steve68]

Keep us posted, I'm looking for a good cam/head package, with good prices and tech,

[trapin]

As soon as I get the garage situated after the car comes back I'm going to be diving into all that aluminum wonderfulness. I can't wait to bust it down. I haven't busted down in engine since the last Bush was in office.

[Steve68]

I envy you on the paint, but I'm home with a sicky today so I get to play in the garage, just put the gas pedal on. and the other night went the clutch and brake maybe I'll get to the wiring harness,

[trapin]

Aw man...don't get me started on the wiring harness. I can't wait to do the wiring harness on my car. From what I remember I sucked at electrical stuff. I just hope the instructions it comes with are simple enough for a monkey to do it. Plus you throw in the LS1 and the computer and I could be doing the wiring on this car for the next 3 years. LOL!!!

[Steve68]

Look at the stickys on LS1 tech, or you can send it to Wait4me performance or Speartech, both are supposed to be good,

[WS6]

3500 stall on a protouring car is nuts. Your back end will come around on you going around a corner if your rpms dip below 3500 and you end up flashing the convetor coming out of a corner. Happened to my friends 00Z on road ATL. Sent him into the dirt.

I think the 224/228 combo would be better. I did recently install a 228/228 cam from TSP in a 98 SS with an auto and 3200 stall.He had the stock 3.23 gears though. Had excellent power with only a little lowend loss. Had a good sound for an LS engine. I do not recommend going for sound on an LS especially an auto. The tight LSA cams are a pain to tune for the street with the auto. It can be done and Livernoise should be able to handle it if they spec something like that. If you notice a lot of companies have two cams that are the same except for LSA. The auto cams are usually +2 over the manual cams simply for drivability and tuning ease.

As for your combo in general, do not skimp on the heads. I think for a budget build the ported LS6 heads and 5.3 heads are great, but the AFR, RHS, and ET heads are better and would suit you better for a pro-touring car. The runner volume on all the ported GM heads is 230+cc in order to flow those numbers. The new casting heads are 205-215cc. They should produce a lot more midrange and low end torque due to the higher velocity the air will have. Keep the cam below 230 on the intake and duration with the LSA at 112-114. This will produce at least 400hp and 385ftlbs at the wheels through the auto but more importantly, the power will be broad and the torque will be strong throughout. 2600-2800 stall with those gears will do great on the street. Mind you it will not be optimal for drag racing as you'd want a higher stall, but this isn't a drag car your building.

Also never listen to a drag racer tell you what specs to use on a road course/ pro-touring car. I want to slap the people that say torque doesn't matter and ,yes, I have heard that said all too often.

Good luck and if you go to Livernoise for everything you should be pleased as they have a reputation for doing really good work. Let them know this isn't a drag car and what your intended purpose with the car is and they will put together something that will meet your requirements.

[trapin]

Trey....thanks alot for that information. You make some great points. You mentioned the 5.3 heads would be good for a budget build (which is pretty much what this is going to be). I have the oppurtunity to purchase a set of 5.3 heads from a friend who owns a cylinder head shop here in Michigan. He says they are brand new castings that he CNC ported, 58cc, 2.02/1.57 and flow 310. They have all Manley hardware in them. He says he'll sell them to me for $800. For that price do you think I should jump on them? What potential valve cover problems or any other issues do you see if I go with them?

Thanks. If these are my heads, all that's left is the camshaft and I have my engine.

[Payton King]

Mine are from TEA and flowed 316 at .600. Only difference in a 5.3 head and 5.7 head are the combustion chamber size. Easier to bump the compression with. Mine are milled to yeild about 11.3 to 1 compression. Since you are running an auto I am guessing the 224/228 on about a 112, but there are way more qualified folks to help you make the correct cam selection.

$800 for the pair is steal. No way can you go wrong and all the stuff is the same...ie, valve covers

[Steve68]

Sounds good Tony, If you need parimeter covers I got you covered, snicker,

[BuddyP]

Tony, keep me posted on those heads. I didn't realize the 5.3's where a direct bolt on. I ran across a set of ported '98 LS1 heads with 2.02/1.57 valves for $650 (all new porting and valves) but the people I checked with didn't think they were a good buy.

[trapin]

I will, Buddy. By the way...PM sent.

[WS6]

For $800 even if the runner volume is 230+ that's a deal I would jump on if you trust the guy. By trust I mean that he hasn't played with the flow test in order to show better than it actually is. If later on you desire more and have the budget you can get the AFR or other heads and simply swap out the heads.

Do be careful as I have no idea if at one time the 5.3 switched from perimeter to center bolt valve covers. The 97-98 ls heads were perimeter and the 99 up were center bolt.

[trapin]

Thanks for the advice, Trey.

Interestingly I'm getting a different opinion from the folks at LS1tech. Here's what a moderator had to say over there.....

5.3s will bump up your compression a lot. There are
chamber volume based CR posts in the Internal section.
You need to be somewhere that fuel quality is high, to
want the 5.3s on a 5.7 stock long block. If all you have
is 91 octane, I wouldn't.

310 is a mighty high flow number for a stock head even
ported. Couple of things. One, to get that high you may
have sacrificed things that make for decent low- to
mid-RPM torque and fuel economy (mixing from swirl).
Two, that high a number may have come from a
funny flow test, at lifts higher than a sane cam will
give you or at higher than the cam you mean to use,
will open a valve.

For the amount of work done and the parts on it,
the price seems fair. But whether these heads fit
-your- motor plan, is the right question to ask. If
not your car may be a stumbling pig on the street.

I don't know....I'm still confused. I don't plan to go with a radical camshaft. 228/230 at the most 580 lift with a LS of 112-114. I like the features the 5.3 heads have but I'm weary of the combustion chamber being so tight. A big part of me wants to forego these heads and just let Livernois spec out my motor for me. If I try to do it myself....I just know I'll screw up something.

[Damn True]

What about the GMPP ported LS6 head? Pretty affordable and if memory serves, it flows around 290 or so.

[andrewb70]

Or just stock LS6 (243 castings) heads. I am making about 385RWHP with a stock LS6 and a baby cam. A 228/230 cam would add 15-20HP over my combo and nice headers will increase that by another 10. So your looking at 410-415 RWHP easy. I am a big fan of stock heads because I think many porters focus too much on flow numbers. In other words I don't trust them to make a port that won't kill the low end.

As a reference, ZZ502/502 routinely put down about 365 RWHP through a TH400 trans. With a manual they will make 380-390. Don't stress out over all this Tony. These engines are hard to mess up.

Andrew

[Ralph LoGrasso]

I haven't done any research on 'em, but the new 205 Dart heads are a major bargain (as far as aftermarket castings are concerned) at around $1,400 for a set (from Speed Inc.). The price has me thinking a lot about throwing a set on my '01.

[WS6]

he did a better job of saying what I was trying to say. Honestly, if you have the money, let Livernoise spec everything for you. You don't have to have them do the install, but if they have proven packages that fit your budget and make power where you need it, I say stay in one place. When you do that you don't have to worry about flow numbers of various heads. That doesn't matter. What does is will the combo work for you.

Andrew has a very good point about porting for the numbers which is another reason I prefer as cast heads or a completely new head like the AFRs. Not everyone or even me has 2200 to drop on just the heads though.

Ralph is that assembled? I thought that was bare? If that's assembled, that could make for a hell of a deal considering ported LS6 heads go for $1200 and have huge runners.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

$734 each assembled.

Here is a flow chart from Speed Incs site:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[WS6]

Man I would seriously look into those for that price. I had heard about the new heads from Dart along with their block. These are the first specs I have seen on them though. Thanks.

[ZL-1]

I would definately rethink going to Livernois.

[Steve68]

Like True said LS6 ported heads,Thats the ones I'm thinking or AFR's

[Rybar]

The Dart's definatley look good for the price. Otherwise maybe look into some Patriot LS6 heads. I just took delivery of my ETP 215's which will be going on shortly. One of the reasons I chose ETP over AFR was the 11 degree valve angle, it allows more cam and piston to valve clearance over standard LS1 style heads. see: www.etheads.com (http://www.etheads.com)

[JMarsa]

Trapin,

Check out this thread and the head review from GMHTP mag.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600982&highlight=dart+205

--JMarsa

[trapin]

I just wanted to share this...

Yesterday I started tearing down the LS1 and made a pile of parts that will not be going back on this engine when it's done. When I saw how much stuff there was, I was amazed and out of curiosity decided to see how much it weighed. I got out my trusty Berkely fish scale (handle and hook version) and started picking up parts to weigh them. In total I permanently removed 60 pounds of parts off the motor. :eek: I could not believe it. The motor mounts were 9.5 pounds a piece. The exhaust manifolds combined were 21 pounds, air conditioning generator was 18.5 pounds and a host of other parts, brackets, hoses and an EGR system rounded out the weight.

I can't believe how heavy the motor mounts were....19 pounds combined.

[WS6]

Was this a vette motor?

[trapin]

Nope. '99 Trans Am.

[trapin]

Alright guys...after extensive research, this is what I've come up with. Let me run this past you.

- 228/228 .588/.588 lift 112 lsa
- LS6 CNC Ported Heads 2.00/1.55 valves
- LS6 Intake
- Stock Injectors
- Stock Throttle Body (ported/modified)
- LS2 Timing Chain
- LS6 Ported Oil Pump
- Chrome Moly Push Rods

For the trans I will run a 2800 stall.

So what do you think......am I done? Thanks.

[Steve68]

I think you night be happier with a 114 lsa, why the "L7" square measurements on the cam??

[trapin]

Square measurements....those are the specs on Texas Speed's website. Is that not a good camshaft choice? Wouldn't the 114 lsa make it sound like a stock motor?

[WS6]

114 will smooth it out at idle and for an auto would be a good idea. That cam on 112 is really for the manuals where as the same cam on a 114 is for the autos. It just makes drivability and tuning easier to use the 114 and the power will basically be the same. TSP should have some comment to that affect by those cams. Or maybe it was Thunder Racing that does that.

Anyway that is minor. I think your overall plan is good I would go ahead and get 30lb injectors though. You are at the borderline with that combo and 30lbers won't burt anything.

Also, maybe later down the line if you choose and money is good, upgrade those heads. I just really do not like 230+cc runners when you can make the same power with 205 or 210cc heads. AFRs are 205s and RHS and Dart are like 210 and 215. I like velocity in my heads and 230 is hogged out. Also what are those new GM heads L92 or something. They are LS7 based and while they require a specific intake, it is still a good deal. This is all upgrades though.

You will be happy with that combo. I did that same cam on a 114 for a 98 SS auto with a 3200 stall and 3.23 gears. He really enjoyed that cam

[trapin]

Trey...do you think I should switch to the PRC 5.3 stage 2.5 heads from Texas Speed? I can get them in 2.02/1.55 or 2.04/1.55 and they are 220cc. They would bump up compression at bit too. 10.75:1 as advertised.

Would that cam sound wimpy in my car or would it still have a nice lope to it?

Thanks Trey, you've been a big help so far.

[marine02ss]

I build a 2002 RaM Air with AFR 205s and the exact same camshaft we made 423rwhp and ran an 10.80n/a full weight car.It does clear a stock motor no valve reliefs needed if the motor is stock.

[Steve68]

Damn!

[trapin]

Marine....the TSP 228R or the Torquer v2?

Impressive numbers.

[JMarsa]

Isn't it cute...Tony's talking in lingo now

How fast they grow out of thier SBC's and into thier GEN III's :razz:

--JMarsa

[JChristian1835]

A few things to consider I'm just throwing out there... Have you thought any about the futral cams? They seem to be amazing cams. Also I would recommend the dart heads for best bang for the buck. They flow great out of the box and with alittle porting and polishing they are really good heads. Also I wouldnt recommend going any lower than a 114 lsa. 112 I think would be too much for an auto. Also I would for sure stay under a 3000 rpm stall for ease of driving. Then don't forget the dual springs. PRC seems to be the way to go on this. Just throwing out some opinions and other views. It is ridiculous the different aftermarket companies for the LSx series motors and it's very hard to keep up with them.

[WS6]

It is ridiculous the different aftermarket companies for the LSx series motors and it's very hard to keep up with them.

This is so true.

Tony, the 228/228 will have a nice sound to it I think, but it's nothing heavy. You will know it is cammed though. The biggest problem with making newer cars sounds so cammed compared to the old SBC is the EFI. It allows the car to be tuned so well for all conditions. Most people that hear a nice lope in an old car aren't necessarily hearing a well tuned car which simply adds to the lope sound.

I would just go with the ported LS6 heads for now. It's not at all that the LS6 heads are some how a bad choice or will perform poorly. Just the opposite is true. I just simply have my preferences and beliefs and they may not go to well with your budget. You should still make 400 rwhp minimum and torque should be close to that with that combo. The 2800 stall will do perfectly fine for a pro-touring car. Make sure you have an external trans cooler for the fluid though. Do get the 114 LSA also. The trans will like it better. That's the one draw back to the electric trans, they can be so finikey with a cam on the street.

You can nit pick a combo to death trying to get that last bit of power out of a car. I say keep it simple so you can drive and enjoy the thing. That combo is simple and works well. Go with it. If you want more later, you can easily do so because it's simple right now.

[Nine Ball]

Isn't it cute...Tony's talking in lingo now

How fast they grow out of thier SBC's and into thier GEN III's :razz:

--JMarsa

LMAO! The addiction is strong with this one :)

[trapin]

LOL!!! Marsa you dog.

It's true though...I'm a man possessed.

Thanks for the advice Trey, Christian....I'm going to stick with that combo. Now I just need some money to buy it.

[Steve68]

I like that came too I just might have to jump on the Trapin cam band wagon,

I've already started gathering parts for the LS Nova swap, I think a nice LS1/2 with a procharger would be fun, modern,

[trapin]

Hop on, man! :twothumbs

For reference, here's what it's going to look like. This is it, the final build specs. These are all the mods that are going to be done.....

- TSP 228/228 .588/.588 lift 114 lsa
- PRC 5.3 CNC Ported Heads 2.02/1.55 valves
- LS6 Intake
- 30 lb Stock Injectors
- Stock Throttle Body (ported/modified)
- LS2 Timing Chain
- LS6 Ported Oil Pump
- Chrome Moly Push Rods
- LS6 PCV Intake Valley
- 2800 stall convertor

Texas Speed strongly recommended those heads for this camshaft and John says it should flirt with 500 horsepower at the crank. That's all the power I'm ever going to need in this car.

.......for now, anyway. :razz:

[Steve68]

Mine:
Dart Pro 205/225 heads hand exhaust port work done
TSP or MTI cam close to the same specs
LS6 intake
30lb injectors
ported T/B
LS6 ported oil pump
7.4 C/M pushrods
S/W headers X pipe Rhino RPM mufflers
T-56 spec F/W Ram clutch Pro5.0 shifter,

This should be it, but why the LS2 chain and the LS6 intake valley, whats this do??

[JChristian1835]

The LS2 timing chain is thicker and more durable...

and with the ls6 intake valley.. the only thing i can think of being a benefit is maybe the ls6 pcv setup??

[WS6]

Yep, that's correct on both accounts Christian and Steve.

Many people have switched to the LS6 PCV system which requires an LS6 valley cover. This helped in oil consumption through the TB. However, I know people that have done this swap and it hasn't helped enough. Running a catch can isn't a bad idea if you are sucking oil up through the TB. Do a search on LS1Tech.com and there is a company making quality catch cans that would look right at home on a detailed engine. I can't remember their name though.

Also make sure you change your sprockets out Tony and anyone else doing a build. You will find a lot of people only swapping to the LS2 chain and keeping their old sprockets becuase they see no wear on the sprockets This is ludicrous. The whole setup is $90. Just because you don't see any wear on the sprockets doesn't mean it's not there.

[JChristian1835]

Also make sure you change your sprockets out Tony and anyone else doing a build. You will find a lot of people only swapping to the LS2 chain and keeping their old sprockets becuase they see no wear on the sprockets This is ludicrous. The whole setup is $90. Just because you don't see any wear on the sprockets doesn't mean it's not there.

VERY VERY valid point.... alot of problems with people reusing sprockets.

[trapin]

Damn, I wish I would have known this sooner. I already ordered just the chain because TSP told me the old sprockets would be fine. I wonder If I could get just the sprockets somehow.

Also, in regards to the LS6 PVC system...I'm doing it to hopefully remedy the oil consumption because although I know some have not had success with it, some have, and I'm hoping to be one of them. It also eliminates a lot of hosing on the engine which helps to clean up it's appearance some. For $55 I felt it would be worth it. I'll look into running a catch can too though. Thanks guys.

[JChristian1835]

Damn, I wish I would have known this sooner. I already ordered just the chain because TSP told me the old sprockets would be fine. I wonder If I could get just the sprockets somehow.

Also, in regards to the LS6 PVC system...I'm doing it to hopefully remedy the oil consumption because although I know some have not had success with it, some have, and I'm hoping to be one of them. It also eliminates a lot of hosing on the engine which helps to clean up it's appearance some. For $55 I felt it would be worth it. I'll look into running a catch can too though. Thanks guys.

Yes you can order just the sprockets.. and there really isnt a good way to inspect them for good integrity

[JChristian1835]

The LS2 crank sprocket is part number 12556582 and it is pretty much the same as the LS1 sprocket. Since they are practically the same I think that they would be interchangable. The only difference I can tell or have heard is that the LS2 cam gear is specifically made for the cam position sensor.

[marine02ss]

The cam Im talking about is the Thunder Racing Trak cam 231/235

[bigtyme1]

Tony, what was your final build? did you go with the patriot? is it running good?

[trapin]

Well, I ended up with the following.....

LS1 stock bottem end
Patriot CNC ported LS6 heads with 918 springs 2.00/1.55
Thunder Racing 224/224 .563/.563 114 camshaft
Thunder Racing Hardened pushrods 7.8"
ARP Head bolts
ARP Rod bolts
LS6 ported oil pump from Texas Speed
LS2 Timing Chain
LS6 PVC system
LS6 intake
Ported and modified throttle body from Fastproms
Stainless Works long tube headers

I had forgotten to replace my timing chain sprockets so I hope they don't give me any problems. I have no idea what I'm going to get for power. I've heard anywhere from 360-420 rear wheel horsepower depending on the tune and which side of the bed my engine decides to wake up on the first time I go to start it. We'll see.

Thanks for asking.

[umbrae]

Thats a nice combo, I have no doubt you'll be on the 400whp+ side.

[WS6]

Tony, be sure to break those valve springs in. What you'll want to do is just start the car and let it warm up for about 20 minutes. Then just shut it off and wait til it's cold again. Drive it normally after warming it up the next time. basically baby it a couple times before you do any dyno runs or hard pulls. Comp has had problems with those springs but people seem to be ok if they don't beat on them right away. The more heat cycles you give them before you get into it the better.