EFI fuel line tubing

[BigBlockOlds]

Are there any problems with running aluminum tubing for an EFI application? Or should you stick with steel or stainless steel?

Can stainless or plain steel be flared to the required 37* taper to mate with an AN fitting?

Thanks for the help.

[camcojb]

Are there any problems with running aluminum tubing for an EFI application? Or should you stick with steel or stainless steel?

Can stainless or plain steel be flared to the required 37* taper to mate with an AN fitting?

Thanks for the help.

I've used aluminum in the past without issue. I use stainless now, but it's harder to deal with for a beginner. Any can do the 37 degree flare required.

Jody

[ProTouring442]

You can also use the compression union style ends. I used these when plumbing the 442, easy to use and they look quite nice to boot.

Oh, I also used aluminum line.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"

[ProBell]

I would use caution with the compression fittings on the pressure side, especially if using aluminum line. I feel a mechanical connection is just safer. Just my .02$

[BigBlockOlds]

I've used aluminum in the past without issue. I use stainless now, but it's harder to deal with for a beginner. Any can do the 37 degree flare required.

Jody

I bought some stainless line to give it a try and your not kidding. This stuff is tough to work with.

Bought a nice tubing bender from Eastwood, so making bends is the easy part. But cutting it is slow going and I might as well forget about flaring it. I'm using the cheap Summit Racing 37* flaring tool thats pretty much like any other parts store 45* flareing tool. My problem is that I can't get the stainless to flare. When I start tightening the flaring die down, it just pushes the tube out of the vise block.

Do I need a different flaring tool to work with stainless? Or different technique? I may go with aluminum but I like the look of the stainless.

Thanks for the help,

[camcojb]

I bought some stainless line to give it a try and your not kidding. This stuff is tough to work with.

Bought a nice tubing bender from Eastwood, so making bends is the easy part. But cutting it is slow going and I might as well forget about flaring it. I'm using the cheap Summit Racing 37* flaring tool thats pretty much like any other parts store 45* flareing tool. My problem is that I can't get the stainless to flare. When I start tightening the flaring die down, it just pushes the tube out of the vise block.

Do I need a different flaring tool to work with stainless? Or different technique? I may go with aluminum but I like the look of the stainless.

Thanks for the help,

I use Ridgid flare tools and benders, work great.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[parsonsj]

I'm with Jody on Ridgid tube benders. I get'em online at Toolup.com. I use an Imperial flaring tool, got it at Pure Choice Performance Plumbing.

Here's a tip on routing lines, especially until you get a little experience with measuring the bends: make prototype lines out of aluminum, then transfer the pattern to stainless. I've had decent luck doing it that way.

jp

[ks71z28]

Summit has triple anealed stainless line. It looks nice and bends and flares easier than regular steel. My 2c

[BigBlockOlds]

Summit has triple anealed stainless line. It looks nice and bends and flares easier than regular steel. My 2c

Yeah, thats the tubing I bought. I did get things working much better though today.

For one, I stopped cutting it with a tubing cutter and used a hacksaw with a fine metal blade, deburring the edges afterwards.

What I ended up having to do stop the tubing from slipping out of the flare block was to clamp it in a vise and then clamp a C-clamp as close to the tubing as possible. Then put a little oil on the flaring die and I had no problems after that. :)

Thanks for all of the help!