mustang big block overheating... who knew???

[cfilm1]

I know bb mustangs are notorious for running hot... with that said i still cant get this thing to run cool in traffic.
So i have checked the timing it's right where it should be..
Have big 24" griffin aluminum radiator and have tried every combination of cooling fan under the sun... at speed its fine.. low rpms forget it.
Flushed the radiator and found a calamari ring of blue silicon sealant came out. It runs a bit cooler now but still not safe in traffic.
Have used two different ratio pulley sets from underdrive to standard... still not cool.
have gone from 160 degree to no thermostat restrictor plate and back

what else could be causing this prob?

[porschev8]

What kind of fan are you using? Is it shrouded?

[cfilm1]

yep... have a 17.5" 7 blade flexfan with stock style shroud. Started out with two 12" electric pullers... then went to 5 blade flex... then 5 blade race fan that actually cooled the worst... now im up to this 7 blade which works the best but still not enough. the original clutch fan might be my next try but i am sure to run into clearance issues as the griffin radiator has a larger outlet port than the stock design and is moved closer to the fan causin me to run a fan .5" shorter than stock.

[porschev8]

How much distance do you have between the radiator core and your water pump pulley?
A lincoln MK VIII fan would solve the problem but you'll need about a 5.5" space between the two.

[cfilm1]

I have 2.75" between face or radiator and waterpump pulley. I cant even get a replacement fan clutch to fit. I think the factory setup was shorter.

[Madspeed]

How much distance do you have between the radiator core and your water pump pulley?
A lincoln MK VIII fan would solve the problem but you'll need about a 5.5" space between the two.

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Yea YEa Yea What he said that Sucka pulls over 4k cfm of air

if that cant cool it you need gasoline and a match :drive2:

[ProTouring442]

yep... have a 17.5" 7 blade flexfan with stock style shroud. Started out with two 12" electric pullers... then went to 5 blade flex... then 5 blade race fan that actually cooled the worst... now im up to this 7 blade which works the best but still not enough. the original clutch fan might be my next try but i am sure to run into clearance issues as the griffin radiator has a larger outlet port than the stock design and is moved closer to the fan causin me to run a fan .5" shorter than stock.

I have never gotten a flex fan to cool well. They just don't. Years ago I had a cooling problem on a big block Chevelle that sounded quite a bit like your problem here. I finally got it to cool by installing a 7 blade clutch fan, never had a problem after that. Since you can not fit a clutch fan, I think the Mark VIII fan should work well. It pulls a LOT of air (4,000 cfm) and should do the trick.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"

[70GS455]

Derale makes a dual fan that pulls 4000 cfm. The motors will be offset to either side of the waterpump and might give you enough room. They do pull 40+ amps though.

[vintageracer]

I would remove your distributor and have it checked/setup on a distributor machine by a competent and knowledgeable Ford distributor expert. Does the distributor have a vacuum advance can? Is it correct for the your BB Ford application. Probably not.

Overheating as you have described is also an issue on C2 BB Corvettes. When all avenues have been investigated I always suggest the owner remove the distributor and have the distributor rebuilt and properly setup by a professional. 95+% of the time this will solve the problem of overheating as original distributor setup/timing is way off. In most cases it is the vacuum advance can that causes the most problems. You have said the engine timing is correct with a light but how about initial timing, full timing, off idle timing and most importantly the right vacuum advance canister. Timing is controlled by the distributor and most distributors have seen little if any maintainence other than points or a new module over their liftime. There are lots of wear items in a distributor, even in an electronic distributor. Most distributors are also NOT properly set up for the cam/application/engine specifications into which the distributor is installed. Therefore performance suffers and incorrect timing WILL cause an engine to run hot!

I know this probably sounds silly but I'll bet this is your problem. Also remember, just because you may have a new distributor does not mean it correctly set up for your application. A good example is those new "pro" brand China HEI distributors. Their new and look pretty but are absolute junk as far as components and initial setup. Maybe that's why they are $100 or less retail!

[MonzaRacer]

Hey Protouring442, if you cant get a flex fan to cool your bbc then your system isnt fuctioning properly.
As for over heating let me ask some questions and lets get facts before we lay blame on thing.
OK so the temp goes up in traffic. Does it boil over while idling in your garage/driveway or does it simply rise to fan turn on and then go back down.
See a proper system will rise and fall with proper coolant flow/air flow.
Everyone thinks a car should sit at a certain temp ,,period and this is not the case.
Here are some things that hapen in a cooling system that are normal.
1:Warm up from cold will go just over the thermostat opening then the stat will crack and start flowing coolant, some times you will get a sudden closing as coolant thats still cool will cause it to "bounce" till system gets to a thermal stasis, a point where the thermostat is open and coolant is flowing and as coolant is recycled it cause the thermostat to gradually close and open. Eventually it will even out and the system then goes into a cycling mode between the thermostart and electric fan.
2: The system will then stay at a thermal median temp as you cruise and should really never get to fan turn on while over a speed of around 30 to 40 mph,,, maybe even lower.
3:A car engine with an electric fan and a proper thermostat and coolant flow will cycle between around 5 to 10 degrees above the thermostat opening and fan turn on.your fan should turn off above thermostat opening temp.
In all actuallity if your car got to 220 deg its fin it wont hurt a thing.
IF you build, tune and run your engine at a design temp or 192/195 thermostat and expect it to run up and down this is normal and proper.
Trying to run your engine at a rediculously low coolant temp like 160 is not the way as the engine will not run efficiently.
Another thing is removing the thermostat is not a way to make a car run cool, it only just lets water run as fast as it wants without actually cooling the engine, because the temp sender is usualy brass and sticks outinto the flow the heat runs away from the sender rather than staying with it, and making your guage read lower.
In doing this all you do is cause nucleate boiling and hot spots hurting your pride and joy.
Also you need to have a proper preasure/vacuum radiator cap and a overflow bottle. I would run a 13 lb cap for street cars.
If your car never overflows and cycles the fan properly then its not over heating.
A proper system can push as much as 2or 3 qts out depending on the size of the system but usually a 3 quart bottle with about a quart in the bottom is sufficient.
Let me put it this way,,, if I can cool a 350 chevy in a 86 Ranger with the stock 2.0 4 cyl radiator(no ac) then your car isnt that hard unless you have something not working properly.
A for flex fans I hav one on my 78 C10 and it has kept it cool for 4 years ,,,even drove it for 3 days with a blown headgasket(blown to the outside) and just kept dumping in used coolant from work.


Here is a check list:
1: Is radiator full cold and at least overflow bottle 1/3 full and hose sitting on bottom(cut it at angle so it will not stop up).
2: With your system in present mode cap on, start it up and let it run till upper hose gets hot, also both heater hoses need to be hot (as some engines bypas through the heater)
3: Let it run making note of temps at several intervals, second or third interval should be upper hose getting hot as it open thermostat.
4: Please note the temp when its fully open (hot all over from engine to radiator)
5:Let engine run till fan turns on, now put your hand in fromt of fan and is the heat being pulled out? Is it getting less as you wait? And keep notes on when it reaches fan shut off temp.
6: If it never gets to shut off temp then you have a flow problem (ie too little water flow/too little air flow.
7: Your car should be able to sit and idle and never over heat if your set up is working properly, if it doesnt then you have found your problem.
Now idling in gear/clutch in your car should never overheat.
Another thing is that you should have relay(s) on your fans if not the fans wont have the torque to pull properly and wont last nor cool properly.
I used a single 80's Grand Am fan on a thermostatic switch keeping my 10.5 to 1 BBC cool and half the time it would hang loose at the bottom asthe bolts would never stay tight(till I lock tite d it and added a zip tie).
So pm me with temps and what it does as it sits there running and Ill try to help you localize the problem.
Also give me all you have done to the engine, parts used.
any questions just ask as I have never had a car I couldnt keep cool unless it was broke.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

[xx_ED_xx]

I had a similar issue with a 283 ended up being the head gasket
You could see a path from the combustion chamber to the coolant hole. it was 13-1 so it would keep building pressure in the cooling system. I would loosen the cap and it wouldnt over heat. finally figured it out when i pulled the heads off