jaybee
07-30-2006, 04:09 PM
Hi, Jaybee here, which comes from my name, John B. I spent several hours across a number of days checking out the site and love the focus on results. Hope my project fits in here, it's off the beaten path. I'm just finishing the planning on a '57 Chevy 2 door Handyman Wagon. Strange project for a Pro-Touring project I know, but please hear me out.
First of all, I want a car I can have fun DRIVING. That includes not only being pushed back in the seat but also leaning on the brakes hard going into a corner and feeling the side forces as the front and rear wheels fight to hold ontothe pavement. Clearly a stock Tri 5 Chevy is ill-suited to the task. I can't be one of those guys cruising along at 50mph on the freeway because my car isn't safe mixing in traffic with modern cars.
Secondly, this car isn't complete enough to be a restoration. I'm starting with a rolling chassis and body shell with most of the glass, but little else. As I see it that makes a perfect basis for a hot rod and I'll be more than happy to whip out the "before" pictures for anyone who wants to accuse me of cutting up a "perfectly good car."
Third, these cars were dragstrip warriors back in the day. My vision is a car with a race car theme but comfortable enough to drive intercity and capable of having fun in the twisties. Drive train is easy, after all these were the FIRST cars with Chevy small blocks. The visuals won't be difficult either. Dash-mounted tach, fiberglass tilt front end, the right wheels, and we're almost there.
Handling is the tough part, that's why I'm here. My plan is to drop the car about 2-3" front and rear using cut coils on the front, which gets the front crossmember down around 5" off the ground. My research tells me that helps the camber curve. Not sure if there is anything to be gained from tubular control arms. Most of them seem to duplicate stock geometry or add caster. There are other ways to get that added caster. Disk brakes all around, of course, and maybe hydroboost. Weight distribution should come out favorable with the added rear weight of a wagon and reduced front weight from fiberglass components. Good shocks and properly tuned sway bars will be a must. I haven't yet decided what to do about rear suspension. Wheel wells are big enough to take some decent-sized rubber on both ends with minimal size differential font/rear, just enough to make it look like a hot rod. The frame is built from thick stuff and the front crossmember area is very strong, but the rest of the frame needs help. I think a well-designed tubular X member, a shock crossmember in the rear kickup area, and a boxed rear crossmember should give substantially improved frame stiffness.
How's my plan?
First of all, I want a car I can have fun DRIVING. That includes not only being pushed back in the seat but also leaning on the brakes hard going into a corner and feeling the side forces as the front and rear wheels fight to hold ontothe pavement. Clearly a stock Tri 5 Chevy is ill-suited to the task. I can't be one of those guys cruising along at 50mph on the freeway because my car isn't safe mixing in traffic with modern cars.
Secondly, this car isn't complete enough to be a restoration. I'm starting with a rolling chassis and body shell with most of the glass, but little else. As I see it that makes a perfect basis for a hot rod and I'll be more than happy to whip out the "before" pictures for anyone who wants to accuse me of cutting up a "perfectly good car."
Third, these cars were dragstrip warriors back in the day. My vision is a car with a race car theme but comfortable enough to drive intercity and capable of having fun in the twisties. Drive train is easy, after all these were the FIRST cars with Chevy small blocks. The visuals won't be difficult either. Dash-mounted tach, fiberglass tilt front end, the right wheels, and we're almost there.
Handling is the tough part, that's why I'm here. My plan is to drop the car about 2-3" front and rear using cut coils on the front, which gets the front crossmember down around 5" off the ground. My research tells me that helps the camber curve. Not sure if there is anything to be gained from tubular control arms. Most of them seem to duplicate stock geometry or add caster. There are other ways to get that added caster. Disk brakes all around, of course, and maybe hydroboost. Weight distribution should come out favorable with the added rear weight of a wagon and reduced front weight from fiberglass components. Good shocks and properly tuned sway bars will be a must. I haven't yet decided what to do about rear suspension. Wheel wells are big enough to take some decent-sized rubber on both ends with minimal size differential font/rear, just enough to make it look like a hot rod. The frame is built from thick stuff and the front crossmember area is very strong, but the rest of the frame needs help. I think a well-designed tubular X member, a shock crossmember in the rear kickup area, and a boxed rear crossmember should give substantially improved frame stiffness.
How's my plan?