I think Etching Prime is for me, vs Epoxy prime.....Advice sought

[BA.]

Guys, you don't know how much it pains me to make this post! I mean, I just did a search on "etching primer" and read through a dozen or more threads. I'm not trying to beat the proverbial dead-horse here but here goes!
After reading those threads, I'm somewhat educated, but, I was hoping to get some head nods or "WTF are you thinking BA" for my particular situation! :hammer:
The threads made me think that perhaps DP90 or equivalent would not be ideal for me at this bare-metal stage.


I am using 60 and 80 grit to remove some old old old paint from my roof and doors. Taking her down to bare metal. I have new quarters and fenders that have that black coating on them, I believe I need to sand that off as well.

I was thinking that the Etching primer might be good for me at this stage and would like opinions on that.
I was going to Etch, and then guide coat or some primer (?) for the doors and roof to see what I am working with.

I will probably try my hand at some of the light bodywork over the course of the next several months.
My garage is attached, but not directly heated.

[Mike Holleman]

You're thinking is right. Use a self etching primer on the bare metal to avoid flash rusting. A light coat will do the job and provide a good base for your primer. DP90 is a good two part primer, but there are others that would give a higher build for block sanding when you get to that point.
Mike Holleman

[HILROD]

Most etching primers will not stop rust they can still absorb humidity and water. Most epoxy primers would work for this. If you car is going to sit it needs epoxy. Just sand the spots to do body work. Also most of the etching primers are not for use over or under bondo only to bare metal. Just my two cents. FRANK

[chicane67]

Dp90.......

[CDJr]

I use DP90 on bare metal also, and it is what your situation calls for, BA.

[the sander]

you are on the right path, Epoxy is the only way to go, it will seal the metal and help to prevent micro corrosion, if your metal work is done give the car one more complete sanding make sure that you have removed all the rust, even the smallest speck of rust will come back to haunt you, and apply the epoxy asap, micro corrosion starts with in 30seconds of the metal being exposed to the elements, lay down a thin coat of epoxy and then two or three medium to wet coats of a high build surfacer, the surfacer is needed cus it will fill many of the minor imprefections and sand scratches, it will also giving you a good foundation to apply your fillers, plus the dp90 is not ment to be sanded and will plug up your sand paper.

then you can start your body work.....guide coat.... sand.....fill....sand.....sand......fill....sand.. ...reprime...sand some more........you get the idea......
you will have to repeat this process until the car is perfect
Good Luck and take your time

[astroracer]

Using Dupont's Metal-Etch or POR's Metal Ready on the bare steel, prior to priming, will give you some time before the panel starts to re-rust. If I know a panel will be bare for a while I simply wipe it down with either of these and I know it will be clean for a long time. I have used these products for years with good results. These products will also REMOVE minor surface rust if used with a Scotch-Brite pad.
As far as the EPDM coating on your new panels is concerned this stuff is generally a good base for primer. D/A the panels with 320 grit on a soft pad and shoot your epoxy.
Mark

[Happyfunballs]

I've used both, put epoxy over the top and never had a problem with either.

[fletcherscustoms]

My reccomendation is to completely strip the new panels also. I was jus tinvolved with a set of quarter that were coated in EDP, they were scuffed, then shot with primer. When we went to do the final work, the primer would come off in layers leaving bare metal. You got to think these things are coming from overseas and those guys coule care less about making sure the metal is clean before dipping it. I always strip the EDP coating off, jsut habit. I also never use etch primer, it will still allow moisture to get in. I always use PPG epoxy on bare metal followed, by a few coats of high build then body, sand, high build block, and whatever else is needed

[rohrt]

I used a Sherwin Williams brand of Self etching primmer and put it on my whole shell since it was sitting a while. It worked great. I have used dp90 on many bare mettal parts and a combo of self etch with dp90.

Every painter has an opion on what works best.

[BA.]

Yeah, the various options and preferences were killing me since I don't know jack about painting/priming. :)


Epoxy Primer it is!!


Thanks everyone.
PS. go over to the Media forum and enjoy my little video of GoodGuys Columbus pictures. That will be my return contribution. :) lol.

[Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy]

I had problems with the edpm and prep in the past. I spoke to my paint supplier today and he suggested removing as much as possible and then apply an etching primer(PCL) and then after it cures for about 2-hours apply a poly primer for filling. The PCL brand etching primer,
I was told, will seal and protect from moisture and only a scratch down to bare metal will compromise it, but you must top-coat it with something else before it fully cures (after 8hrs). He suggested the poly prime to fill any scratches and give a good base for blocking and a top coat. I mentioned that the car will be in primer for about a year or more and will be exposed to the elements. My supplier suggested this over epoxy due to the chalking that will occur in a matter of weeks of exposure.
Just another way to go about it.

[ProTouring442]

Spies Vario primer can be used over the e-coat, it's made to bite in. Although I always scuff the e-coat, I use the Vario to keep it from peeling.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"

[hotrdblder]

last i checked polyester is not made to go over etch primer only epoxy primer.

[StRacerDuke]

Make sure you spray a high build primer over the epoxy after it has flashed off. DP60-90 doesn't sand and I'm a little leary of how well filler will stick to it. My personal experience has taught me that epoxy on metal, then 1-2 coats of a poly primer on top. You can then do what ever fab work/body work you want and come back to the sanding at a later date.

Hope this helps you out.

[Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy]

well it seams that the way to go is DA the EDP apply epoxy/primer-sealer then a filler primer (poly or urathane) over the sealer and then proceed. I talked to the paint guy again and I or he was confused about what to apply over the etching primer.He assured me that I wouldn't have walked out the stor with the incompatible stuff.
Now I need a new gun since mine was borrowed and now is an epoxy paperweight.:hammer:

[gr8pmkn]

hi evryone just joined this site.first let me say there is some of the nicest cars i've seen by far on this site.hope i can share what i've learned.first of all strip all the edp off the new parts then apply a very THIN coat of etch primer just enough to change color of metal.i acccidently put to much on the paint started peeling after acouple of weeks.once the etch primer is dry you want spray a good primer over the area if i rember you had a 12hr window to spray over it ,if not you had to litely scuff surface before you could spray over it.also the etch primer will not stop rust from forming it will atract moisture so you will want to spray some kind of primer on it.ive used euro primer from ppg dupont and sherwin williams, i used sherwin williams euro primer on my truck havent had any shrinkage problems like with ppg.one of my friends painted his truck about 15yrs ago still looks good he also used sherwin williams euro.coasts about 250 per gallon well worth it.if you sand through primer and hit bare metal you will have spray etch primer on bare metal.they make etch primer in a spray can works real well.well ihope this answer some of your questions if you have ay questions let me now maybe i can help if not my buddy is a paint rep for dupont