View Full Version : Evercoat Featherfill G2 Polyester Primer?

10-27-2004, 10:39 PM
Has anybody used the Evercoat Polyester featherfill G2 primer and if so what are your thoughts on it. I have read it is pretty good stuff and is decent in price. I can get it for $52 a gallon in the Buff/Grey/Black color choices an Autobody supply place recommended it to me but I wanted to see what info I got back by mentioning it on this great forum. Any replies appreciated!

10-28-2004, 03:55 AM
a guy here used it, i thinki dlinson, a guy with a sick nova project, he really like it and it blocked otu really well, just be sure to check alot of these poly primers need to be covered by a urethane primer before painting, the other thing is that i would let it sit for a few days to a week at 60 p0lus degrees before blocking, also see what size tip is reccomended for spraying, its gonna be big, maybe bigger than a 2.2, i would put 3-5 coats on also, then block sand starting with 220 guide coating also, and work up to 400-600, 400 will be fine if top coating with a urethane primer.

10-28-2004, 05:57 PM
Thanks for the reply maybe I'll PM him to find out more. The gun I bought is a Nikota but has a 1.4 nozzle. The instructions on the can call for a 1.7 to 2.2 so I will call the guy back and let him know it may not work! or I need another nozzle....Thanks again Anymore inputs anybody??

10-28-2004, 09:09 PM
I've been wanting to use it also, but I'm having alot of trouble finding it local. Anyone know where I can get some, mail order maybe?

10-29-2004, 12:22 AM
What have you heard about G2 if anything? You can go to Evercoats website and they may have a dealer listing. I think it is www.evercoat.com

10-29-2004, 05:38 AM
I just sent you a PM reply but forgot to add what type of gun I used. I have a cheap Central Pnematic gravity feed HVLP but it still sprays good for primer and some paints. I wouldn't use it to paint the outside of the car, too much ornge peal. I was able to find some nozzles and needles at a local autobody shop that fit the Central Pnematic gun. I used a 2.0mm tip.

Watch out for drips from the end of the needle. The stuff is supper thick. The good thin is those big drips onto the body sand off easy.

Make sure you clean the gun often. I actually spayed about two quarts of primer then stopped and cleaned the gun completely and then started mixing more to spray. Only mix up about one paint cup full at a time. This stuff starts to set up in quickly and it will dry like body filler in the paint gun and is reall hard to clean. The vent hole will close up easily too.

The primer will put out a lot of heat just like a fiberglass part as it starts to cure. This is basically what your doing, spraying a layer of polyester over the car and fiberglass uses a polyester resign. It smell just like fiberglass too. After I was done spraying the car, I closed up my garage completely. I believe the temp of the garage went up about 10 degrees just due to the heat given off during the curing process of the primer. You can feel the heat coming off of the body panels.

I kept the garage shut for about 3 or 4 days in the hot summer weather to let the stuff fully cure and shrink. They say it doesn't shrink like normal primer but just to be safe I'd wait. It will fill 36 grit sand scratches without a problem but not recommended. I believe I sanded all of my bodywork with 80 grit maybe 120 before the featherfill.

I purchased my Featherfill from the local body supply shop but had to special order it. It has a short shelf life so they don't like to stock it. You can order it in one quart or one gallon sizes.

Good Luck,

10-29-2004, 05:39 PM
Man now thats the kind of response I was hoping for! Thanks alot for the info! Sounds like you liked it pretty well so i'm going to give it a try. I need another nozzle though as my Nikota spray gun has a 1.4. The instructions online for the stuff call for a 1.7 to 2.2 nozzle. Thanks again!

10-30-2004, 08:56 AM
I've used the original featherfill and man it sands hard....I hope the G2 stuff is easier to work with.....if I rember right I ended up initially blocking with 180 grit to knock the orange peal down then went to the finer stuff....car turned out nice though.....lol I still have some of that in a can and that car was almost 10 years ago.....hmmmm wonder if its solid yet LOL thanks for reminding me, now I have to go look for it

10-30-2004, 05:56 PM
The G2 sanded real nice. My friend is a body man and he suggested block sanding with 220 dry paper then cover with a urethane primer. Wet sand the urethane with 600 then it's ready for paint.


10-30-2004, 07:44 PM
Great info guys! I'm going to give it a shot...they just want too much to paint cars nowadays! I'll take my time and do it right. I have painted alot of RC canopies, a few Snowboards, even a few Guitars all using Createx paints and House of Kolor Clear and they all turned out really nice. I know that this will be a challenge though just from the size of the job so I know it really can't compare to what I have experience on. But I think getting the right info from you guys that have done it before, doing good prep work, taking my time and using the right guns filters etc. I should be able to do a job better than the Miracle paint job my wife wants me to put on the car :poke: Anyways Thanks guys and keep the info coming!! anyone else don't hesitate to pipe in! i'm all ears at this stage!

10-31-2004, 07:45 AM
looks like you've got the jist of things.....the better you can make the base (i.e. primer, bodywork) the nicer the job will be.....lol I've got more money in primer on my car than in actual color/clear......3 gallons of this wonderful crap that they can't sell anymore because of the EPA @ about $200 a sprayable gallon back in the early 90's and lots of blocking later and the car looks pretty decent lol

11-03-2004, 06:13 PM
Well hopefully I got the jist! We'll see how it turns out! Just going to take my time. By the way what do you do if you get a run on the basecoat? With the clear you can sand it and spray again what about base? the same? Just curious in case it happens.

03-11-2008, 07:46 PM
I just tried G2 and so far I'm impressed for the money I've been using it for my custom painting on jet ski's and have yet to have it shrink back on me even sanding on it after a few hours pushing it to find its limits plus the best part is the flexibility being polyester. Used it to paint my buddys dash in his 05 chevy duramax and got really good adhesion to the plastic so far its only been about a week but I'll keep you posted. If it holds up like ppg's 250 dollar a gallon primer they'll have a customer for life (or atleast till the government makes them change it)LOL

03-11-2008, 08:20 PM
i use evercoat slick sand polyester filler. it is thick as well but i use a develbis primer gun w\1.8 tip. let it sit for a few days and block it with 180 to cut it strait and ther put a urethane primer over it. i do that and wet block with 400 and it always comes out looking good. i think the part number from evercoat is ec709.

p.s. you can thin it with a urethane reducer as well up to 10%

The WidowMaker
03-14-2008, 07:02 PM
ive used the g2 and it sanded really nice. i only let it cure for a few hours as well. i dont think theres any need to let it cure for a few days. i dont let my rage cure over a few hours before sanding.

i have tried, but have never found a difference btwn the feather fill and the slick sand. anybody know the difference?

05-08-2008, 04:39 PM
Greetings everyone!

Just came on board and would like to share my findings please.

I've sprayed G2 and Slick Sand for quite a few years and in my research and "experimentation" this is what I discovered to be the difference: :

Featherfill G2 (Generation 2) and Slick Sand are both high-build polyester primer surfacers.

G2 was made to be VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) compliant nationwide – though I heard this product was originally designed to be used in California.

Slick Sand is also VOC compliant.

Both G2 and Slick Sand can be wet-sanded unlike the original FeatherFill that you had to wait at least 24hours to ensure it did not retain moisture.

G2 comes in different colors: Buff (cream color), Gray and Black
Slick Sand is only available in Gray

G2 can be used over (and is recommended by the manufacturer) 1K or 2K etch primers. (1K = 1 part; non catalyzed; 2K = 2 part; catalyzed)

Slick Sand has excellent corrosion reisistant over bare steel.

G2 is Tintable, up to 10% by volume with most polyester basecoat tints. I've never tinted my G2 with basecoat tints though I've “cocktailed” G2 with other G2 color primers; e.g., I "cocktailed" Gray G2 with Black G2 to achieve a charcoal colored primer prior to topcoating with a Satin Black finish.

Slick Sand cannot be tinted.

Both G2 and Slick Sand have the same Solids % by Volume: 57-62% if you follow the manufacturers reduction ratio!

G2 has a suggested flash time of 5-10 minutes between coats @ 75 degrees.
Slick Sand suggested flash time of 10-15 minutes between coats @ 75 degrees

Both G2 and Slick Sand are dust free in 30 minutes @ 75 degrees.

G2 Dry-to-sand is approximately 1.5 hr @ 75 degrees F (if used over etch primer will extend this time)
Slick Sand Dry-to-Sand is 1.5 – 2 hours @ 75 degrees F

*This is the manufacturer tested times and are averages. It will also depend on the amount of coats you apply, how much reduction etc., - the more coats the longer the D2S time!

G2 should be sealed prior to topcoat.
Slick Sand does not require a sealer prior to topcoating but I myself make it a habit to seal everything prior to topcoat color application.

Both G2 and Slick Sand are Isocyanate free thus reducing health risks.

G2 needs reduction for good sprayability.
Slick Sand does not require reduction though I've reduced it with even better sprayability.

Pot Life:
G2 has a pot life of approximately 25-35 minutes @ 75 degrees F
Slick Sand has a pot life of approximately 45 minutes @ 75 degrees F

I suggest you don't keep either of these products in your gun longer than 30 minutes or you'll need to buy a new gun!

Gun Setup:
Both G2 and Slick Sand are best sprayed with a 1.7 up to 2.2 fluid tip/air cap. Anything smaller in size will require more reduction of the product for satisfactory sprayability, thus having to apply more coats to achieve the appropriate DFT (dry film thickness) due of the the reduction of solid content.

Both require a minimum of 2-3 wet coats. Do not mist coats!

G2 and Slick Sand can be used on rigid and semi-rigid plastics.

Hope this helps!!