What torque convertor to use 4l60e?

[68 SuperRam]

I am currently considering swapping out my 700R4 - with a 4L60e - and the question I have is what is the proper stall convertor I should be using? I know it all depends up the engine set up and a bunch of other factors - i.e. cam specs and the way the car is used.
THis is the specs on my cam that I got from Lingefelter - from my Superram kit

350 – 383 CID SBC Engine with SuperRam Plenum Runner Cam # 74219
219/219 duration @ .050 .560"/.560" with 1.6 rocker 2,600 – 2,800 stall torque converters are recommended

Curios to know what other people have - a few people I was speaking with - tranny guy, etc. said that around 2400 or so was good - while some other said 2200 - 2300 was better. I probably have around 400 + horsepower with 10:1 compression on my 350. The car is primarily used around town and on the highway - never been to the track - may or may not every go FYI - 3:73 gears in the rear.

Let me know - Thanks

[Steve Chryssos]

I think 2800 is too much stall. The car will feel like a dog in normal driving. Given you intended usage, I would limit stall to 2500. 2200 prefered. (advertised stall and actual stall will vary by application) Your engine will start making power at 1500 rpm, and you will do little or no racing, so there is no reason to run high stall.

I run a 2500 stall converter (actual stall is 2600 rpm) with 60 more cubic inches and more cam (236/244) coupled to a 4L60E and 3.70 gear. Works perfect. It did not work as well with a 3.42 gear.

[68 SuperRam]

Steve,

Thanks for the information - Mark at Bowler said that he would go with a 2400 stall lock up - while the people at Lingenfelter say to go with 2800 even with just normal driving of the car.

I am so confused.

Steve - with the ability to program the shift points - and with the fact that I will be purchasing your product shortly after I get my tranny installed - does it make a alot of difference between getting a 2400 stall or say the 2200 as you would recommend - or perhaps just get one for 2300 - in the middle. Any additional input would be helpful.

[6'9"Witha69]

I use a 2200 stall converter in my 700 and cannot complain. I have 508 HP and 542 ft/lb at the Flywheel. Too loose sucks on the street. My buddy thought putting a 3500 stall converter in was going to be cool. Actually it was hot. real hot. Since the thing was constantly slipping in the stall range on the street the tranny ran hotter tahn it did with a 2200 stall. It also ran slower at the track. Swapped back and all was better.

[Steve Chryssos]

Keep in mind, actual stall speed can vary based on application. These numbers are manufacturers target ratings. You could buy a 2400 stall converter and it might very well stall at 2200 or 2500 because Car A has a smaller cam than Car B. So don't get too hung up on the difference between 2200 and 2400.
I still think you will be happiest with a tight converter, but A 2400 stall converter will do fine. 2800 will feel sloppy at part throttle.

No, you can't really tune out improper stall speed with programming. But most companies offer stall speed adjustments if you want to go thru the effort of R&R-ing the converter.

[BRIAN]

Stick with whatever the tranny mfg recommends are you will have to deal with any problems being blamed on the converter. In my experience the O/D type GM tranny's feel better with a smaller converter. It just has the stick feel to it. Remember what somebody else feels is drivable might be way off to you. Most will agree that a stock Vette has pretty good feel upon nailing the throttle. Maybe a couple hundred higher than stock and than play with your shift points.

I think GEARSTAR? has nice set ups with the Yank converters and everything needed for swap. I drove a FI LT1/700r4 bone stock in a 1st gen Camaro with a Yank converter and have to say whatever they do you can feel it. I have same stall but in another name brand and feel the car just is lazy off the line.

[68 SuperRam]

Steve - got the dyno sheet from Bowler - and even though I aksed for a 2200 stall - the dyno sheet - is saying that the stall is between 1800-2000 - does this seem right? The dyno sheet does not even state the HP or torque, I thought that it would. I need to call him - but he is out until Monday - any input?

[Full Size Chevy]

I thought I would pass along a little info I have found regarding 4L60E stalls.....

I have been noticing a lot of people using the S-10 stall on a lot of different applications because it has a slightly higher stall speed. I believe it is between 2000-2200 rpm (of course this may vary slightly depending on the weight of the vehicle and the amount of power you make). These are the same stalls used in Corvettes of the same year (94-98)

Take a look at http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1219504 for more information. (It's not my site, but I am a member there also). Also keep in mind that they are referring to a 88-98 GM full size trucks that require more torque to move.

I plan on using one once I get my truck (92 Silverado, short cab, short box, 2wd) together. I should be putting out around 500hp to the flywheel (forged 383, 9.5:1 CR, world heads, crower cam, lt1 intake setup, computer retune, bigger injectors, etc). Most of my power will be made on the low end so I need all I can get with a truck that heavy (4k lbs).

I hope this helps.

Jason

[68 SuperRam]

O.K. - I found that the tranny was dynoed on 6 cylinder diesel - would account for the different stall speed on the tranny. Will now try to do the swap on the tranny early next week.

Thanks for all of the info.