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View Full Version : Calling the Cam Guru's.... Help



69CamaroRacer
06-08-2006, 03:11 PM
I am in the market for a new cam and possibly an intake change. I have called all the major cam manufactures and of the 4 I got 4 different suggestions.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/06/rolleyes-1.gif go figure! Anyway I thought I would run them by you and see what kind of input I get here. Also if anyone knows a true expert in the subject and has a contact number for this person I would love to make the call and talk with them before I make the swap. ok here is what I have now. 383ci stroker with Comp magnum 286 adv. 236 236 @ .50 with a .560 in and .560 ex. The cam is the retro-fit hydro roller and I have the rev-kit from AFR. The dyno showed 337hp to the wheels @ 5800 and a torque curve that was not measured below 4500 but read 335 @ about 4500. (there was a problem with the torque reading on the dyno) The comp is 10.5-1 with 195 AFR heads and an Airgap intake. The AFR's were ported and flowed 278in and 212 ex. The stall is rated at 3000 and I can foot brakes it to 3200 and it will flash to 3500. I am not worried about vaccume to much as I have no power breaks to worry about. The only vaccume accessory I have is the RS headlight doors.

When I make the swap I was thinking of switching the springs out for the new bee-hives and running a .600ish lift

Ok here is what was suggested to me...

Mark -

Lunati Suggestions


601-13 243/251 560/565 110 LSA lunatic


7530 team g intake



Comp Cams recommends

292 300 242 248 Advertised .548 .543 110 lsa 2800-6500

66 over lap pt number 12-000-8 cs 3018-3039hr 110+4 $309.00


Ultadyne

296 302 242 248 108 lsa .530 .530

531-10 kirk $310.00


Crane Cams

240 248 .558 pn. 11hr00032 $383

106 lsa



What does everyone here think???
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c4racer
06-08-2006, 09:04 PM
I've had really good luck with Comp over the years, and I have a buddy with a tuning shop for late model iron that uses them almost exclusively and they are making some sick power. I like the duration specs of the one you list, but I would hate to give up lift and only pick up 6 degrees of duration. That motor should be making a bit more power anyway with those heads, unless it is restricted by the intake or exhaust systems. I would leave the cam alone for now and work on optimizing the rest of the system. If you really want to wake the motor up, switch to a solid roller cam with ~250 degrees of duration and around .6-.620 lift.

I had a motor like that for awhile. 383 w/ 6" rods. Cam was a comp with 251/255 or so and lift was .620/.600 - used 1.5's on the exh and 1.6 on the intakes. Heads were also AFR's flowed a bit more, like 287/228. CR was just under 11:1. Vr. Junior manifold - ported to match the heads, aprox a 1206 size. And BG 830cfm double pumper. 1 3/4" headers, good exhaust. Made ~530hp and propelled a 3900lb car to 11's at 116-118mph in the 1/4mi. Power band was 3500-7000rpm.

If you want the motor to really rip, go solid roller. IMHO, once you get above 240deg duration you are better off with a solid cam anyway. They give you better idle and low speed characteristics than a hyd of similar size, and you get much faster ramps which means more lift, more power under the curve etc.

Anway, with the cam you have and those heads, assuming the intake and exhaust system are up to task you should see close to 360rwhp thru an AT w/ loose converter. First step is to find the missing 25-30hp. Then figure out if a cam change is in order.

good luck!!

SStrokerAce
06-09-2006, 09:25 AM
Also if anyone knows a true expert in the subject and has a contact number for this person I would love to make the call and talk with them before I make the swap.


Shoot me a e-mail or PM


ok here is what I have now. 383ci stroker with Comp magnum 286 adv. 236 236 @ .50 with a .560 in and .560 ex. The cam is the retro-fit hydro roller and I have the rev-kit from AFR.


First DITCH THE AFR REV KIT!

Second what is the LSA of the shaft you have now? Is that lift with 1.5 rockers?


The dyno showed 337hp to the wheels @ 5800 and a torque curve that was not measured below 4500 but read 335 @ about 4500. (there was a problem with the torque reading on the dyno)


What kind of chassis dyno did you test this on?

Why didn't you test the motor below 4500rpm?



When I make the swap I was thinking of switching the springs out for the new bee-hives and running a .600ish lift


Good idea.

Bret

Lowend
06-09-2006, 01:49 PM
I'll post my own suggestions later this evening when I have more time. For now I would suggest calling Isky and talking to Ron
www.iskycams.com
VERY smart guy.