View Full Version : TurboLS6 Into an AWD GMC Typhoon
Tydriver
06-06-2006, 06:49 PM
I've actually been working on this project for quite some time, I havent been terribly active on this forum, mostly lurking, reading and learning.. Some of this information is old and if you frequent any of the other forums you've probably seen it before but I figuired I'd post here since this forum is more towards where I want to go with my truck..
Anyhow, heres where I am now :
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People with the keen eyeball will notice that the LS1 calipers are NOT shown, as well as the CV shafts. They are both awaiting the bracketry to allow the larger brakes to be installed. This thing is gonna corner as good as it looks (I hope), and hopefully stop really well too !!!
A keen eye will also notice the Edelbrock Tie rod connectors. I haven't had a chance to turn the wheel yet.. But I think that this maybe a MUST for those with coil overs concerned about contacting the springs, it seems to provide more clearance IMO. Time will tell..
I'm hoping that next weekend, will lead to the placement of the motor bolted to both the converted LS1 motor mounts and the transmission. The altered oil pan will also be in place. Its going to be a very big day for me any my project. Its going to throw some items up I am sure I havent dealt with yet.. As well as get me just that much closer.. I can hardly wait !! As always, alot more pictures are posted on my site, and will be updated with stuff that doesnt make it to the forums..
Tydriver
06-06-2006, 06:50 PM
So far these are the big parts I have.. I havent had a chance yet to address the flexible fluid lines since I am going to wait for the PS Pump from the corvette to be 'in hand' to assure proper length & fittings..
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Keep in mind that I cant settle for any thing not being completely custom (so it seems) so the master cylinder is causing some additional expense on my setup. I wanted to go with LS1 Fbody car master cylinder as I figuired it would be better matched to the LS1 brakes on all 4 corners. (Piston diameters, rod stroke etc).. If you were going with a standard Astro or SyTy master cylinder (prolly same parts) it would be ALOT easier to do this and alot less fabrication involved.
The parts shown on the lower LH corner of the picture are parts that go INSIDE between the booster and master cylinder. These parts are NO LONGER AVAILABLE FROM GM for the '94 Astro setup. I managed to get them from a '00 2500 HD Parts catalog and thats what you see here. They fit inside the booster just fine, but the 'PISTON' is too short and is better illustrated here :
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I'd strongly recommend that IF you go this route you check the overall length of your piston when going with an alternative master cylinder like I did... DONT TAKE MY WORD for the dimensional length on your setup.. Yes its tedious to check, but will provide the best results in the end.
I chose to clock the hydroboost booster UPSIDE DOWN so the fluid lines all run in and out of the bottom (so I didnt have to see them and to help with routing you can see the orientation here as well as the gap that was left over from the different plate sizing between the two boosters:
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Since the LS1 master cylinder completely changes the output side of the fluid lines its going to require all custom lines be made. I figuired since the truck was 12years old, the stock lines were looking a little shabby, that I would just go ahead and replace them so I purchased a flaring tool and will be running AN fittings where I can. Here's the flaring tool :
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Earls wanted $75+ for the same tool, that one was $42/shipped from Summit.
Standard Automotive brake fittings are 45* Double Flared, this setup is a single flare setup and its a 37* for all AN fittings, keep that in mind when doing brakes, you DONT want to mix and match those fittings/flares, at the least you will have leaks, worst case failure.
The only remaining item that needs to be addressed is the brake rod length where it attaches to the pedal. Its probably best to just post another picture here :
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In the above picture "X" dimension is different between the Astro booster and the SyTy vaccuum booster. Some people prefer to 'cut and paste' with a welder these two rods.. Errrr. I'm sure it works, but I'm sorta nervous about doing that with a brake system part...
Both the of the items here are going to also be addressed in addition to the previously mentioned FILLER plate by Eric @ www.turbotime.us (http://www.turbotime.us) which will make the NAPA parts a straight bolt in setup. There will be parts coming very soon if you want to wait for them. Right now we just need to get the dimensions finalized and built.
Would I recommend following my build on this ?? (stupid question to ask a guy shoving an all aluminum v8 in the place of the wimpy 4.3L dont ya think ?)
Depends, if you want an all out matched setup and are running discs all the way around, then yes. (remember I am running LS1Fbody car discs all the way around, if you are still running stock brakes, stay with stock master cylinder.) and I just didnt like the idea of running a mismatched master cylinder. I am unsure of the effects, or if there is even a HUGE difference between the two master cylinders (may in fact be very close, who knows ?). I havent talked to anyone with this setup that runs discs all the way around and inquired about pedal feel or performance yet. I figuired it wasnt that much more of a headache to get it done correctly since I was this far into it anyhow. I guarantee you it can be done for cheaper/easier than I have done.. So far with the above parts, I am upto about $470 (flare tool is at your discretion, since it has other uses later on, I didnt include it) and these are all REMANUFACTURER or NEW parts with NO CORES available to offset the core charges. These nuymbers would be significantly LESS using junkyard parts or a combination of them. I also have to factor in the high pressure lines that I have NOT purchased yet, if someone is interested in purchasing them get in touch with me PRIVATELY and I can see if I can get Earls to make up more than one set (of course your ends will require accomodation to SYTY hose ends @ PS Pump).
Anyhow, I hope this information helps and of course, YMMV etc etc
Tydriver
06-06-2006, 06:51 PM
Not a HUGE update by any stretch, but a couple of shiney parts showed up this week while I was at work..
Going to install this in the rear brake lines and remove the stock prop valve altogether......
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This is a big one, and probably where I am going to spend ALOT of time once it DOES run..
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For those unfamiliar with the LS1/Gen3 motor world. There are 2 premier tuners out right now that offer FULL CONTROL over the PCM.. HPtuners and EFILive's FlashScan. I went with the Flashscan (Pictured above) for the reason that it has the ability to completely recover a PCM from a crash. Also the 'BLACK BOX' datalogging option is HELLA cool.. You dont even have to have the laptop in the vehicle in order for it to datalog. U can download it later into the laptop. You re-flash the PCM (ECM equivalent for an LS1) instead of pulling chips out all the time.
Also a very VERY cool option, it has the ability to accept 2 separate inputs (WBO2, EGT or ???) and incorporate that into the datalog and graph accordingly. This setup is awesome !
Tydriver
06-06-2006, 06:52 PM
Bringing this post back from the dead.. Finally FINALLY have progress on my truck.. I could almost pee my pants ( no, not really, but I am pretty excited)..
I finally got a chance to attempt installation of my sheetmetal oil pan:
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As you can see, we've given up on the idea that the stock pan can be modified, while I am confident it still can be, however, warping is a concern. It was decided that this project would be better off in the hands of someone who has done a few of these before (not specifically LS1 pans, but sheetmetal pans for all sorts of motors).
The pan is about 90% there, it needs some additional tweaking (nothing too major), and FINAL WELDING and then its ready to rock !!
The stock truck pickup tube is also very close to fitting, not 100% yet, but minor tweaks there as well:
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Hopefully this beast will actually RUN this summer!! I wont know what to do if it does.. I will be probably too scared to drive the dang thing !
Anyhow, as always, pictures are up in my gallery on the website.
Tydriver
06-06-2006, 06:53 PM
Wahoooooooo More progress, hoping things will move along steadily now.. I've tackled some smaller stuff related to the motor..
I ordered and received a Turbo Specific Camshaft from Futral Motorsports. Here's the cam card:
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Also received ARP Head Studs, Cometic Head Gaskets, Ferrea 6000 Series Valves (oversized @ 2.02 and 1.60), titanium retainers and locks and lastly, Comp Cams 918 Springs.
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The 6.0L heads and valves are off at the machine shop as we speak, I should be able to pick them up the end of this week. then assemble the valvetrain and throw them on the block in place of the 5.7L heads. (this lowers the compression ratio to a more boost friendly ratio).
The Katech Rod bolts are installed and torqued:
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These lil buggers are spendy ass pieces, $160+ shipped for 16 bolts but they are supposed to be the best.. They add a little insurance in the bottom end, from what I have read, the LSx's motors are really good except for the rod bolts (In realistic applications)..
Which leads me to this:
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The engine was rotated upside down for cam installation, it makes it easier to deal with the roller lifters not getting in the way..
Once I get the heads back from Indy Cylinder Head its time to throw them on and then the motor will basically be done.
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Tomorrow I hope I get a chance to tear into the 4L80e.. I have a bunch of parts I wanna throw at that !!
ProStreet R/T
06-06-2006, 08:39 PM
Very cool. Are you planning on doing any serious upgrades to the front axle? I hear they don't take well to 700hp lol.
WhiteNoma
06-06-2006, 10:01 PM
very nice man...
i sware i saw this project posted somewhere else...syty.net maybe???? either way thats bas ass i love the idea and even threw it around for me to try myself.....excpet modding a s-10 chassis on a g-body.
Mr.VENGEANCE
06-07-2006, 06:47 AM
whoa very comprehensive.:usa:
CAMAROBOY69
06-07-2006, 06:57 AM
Thanks for sharing all the information that you have so far. THats going to be an extremely fun ride. Any plans to road track the truck or autocross?
BlazerSpeed
06-07-2006, 07:12 AM
Seems as though we're having a SyTy.net exodus going on, no complaints though:kewlpics:
-Derek-
Tydriver
06-08-2006, 06:24 PM
Seems as though we're having a SyTy.net exodus going on, no complaints though:kewlpics:
-Derek-
I've been away from syty.net for a while.. I have up on all the childish antics by the alleged 'purists' that claim it wont be a Typhoon anymore..
My time is better spent on a forum thats populated by people that are interested and supportive of a project thats not exactly 'ordinary'. I've seen alot of kickass projects on this site (and LS1Tech.com) that have given me any ideas and inspired me to continue with my project.
As far as racing the truck, it will see a little bit of everything, from the drag strip to AutoX. I am not entirely sure that the locker in the front differential was the best choice but testing will prevail and once its running I will have a better idea where I wanna go with the truck. I want to get active in the SCCA scene and do some cone racing (yeah I know.. 4000#+ truck cone racing :attn: x100) At this point drag racing is cool, but not my primary focus anymore since the more you spend the less seat time you get, not exactly what I wanna do anymore. Besides, we all know that it takes a real driver to turn cones anyone can run the drag strip..
Tydriver
06-08-2006, 06:32 PM
Very cool. Are you planning on doing any serious upgrades to the front axle? I hear they don't take well to 700hp lol.
The differential has been gone through and essential made new, I installed a LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER in the front for true 'AWD' performance..
Oddly enough, and I find this really hard to believe myself, but there is very little issue with the front differentials on the trucks that are consistently running low 10's and high 9's consistently (obviously this is not intended to be a 'blanket' statement as there have been exceptions). I guess its because the majority of the weight transfer is shifted to the rear on launch and the front axle is somewhat 'unloaded' on launch.. I dont really know anyone that has competitively raced one of these trucks in SCCA style, perhaps it will display more 'discomfort' when I actually get a chance to Auto X.
syborg tt
06-09-2006, 07:00 PM
glad to see you brought the project over here. I can't wait to get a ride in this thing.
Tydriver
06-10-2006, 05:12 AM
Decided to tear down my 4L80e tonight, I have a long list of goodies going back into it..
Pan removed.....
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Contents Removed.....
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And you are left with this.....
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I cant believe how simple this transmission was to tear down.. Its been a while since I was into the last tranny (TH350) but I swear I dont recall it being this simple.. There wasnt even a single swear word used !! Obviously the buildup wont be as simple or as quick as the tear down because there are things to check/inspect along the way, but for a first timer, I was pretty happy with <3hr teardown (and that includes hanging that heavy biotch in the holder fixture).
bnoon
06-21-2006, 01:28 PM
You might as well powder coat, ceramic coat, or chrome plate the trans case now... hey, why not?:dunno: Nice job on the tear down, but as we all know, the magic is in putting it back together and having it work right, LOL! Good luck, I look forward to the updates!
Tydriver
06-21-2006, 04:36 PM
Got heads back today from Indy Cylinder Head.. Check out the flow sheet :
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These are basically lightly ported stock 6.0L heads.. I am going to bolt them to the heads to lower the compression ratio a bit.
I also got a bunch of transmission goodies over the last couple of days.. I think everything I need for the transmission build is finally here.
This is the output sensor and sensor ring assembly as the transmission was originally a 4x4 tranny. I wont be re-using the original Tcase where this is normally located. The 2wd trannys have this already:
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High Energy Reverse Band and High Friction Front Band:
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Forged Clutch Hub, this replaces the stocker thats stamped, should help out if I decide I wanna throw the Juice at it at sometime:
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I am soo excited about this project.. I can hardly contain myself.. Its been a long time coming, but I can see a distant light at the end of the tunnel.. I just hope its not the train :bananna2:
bnoon
06-22-2006, 10:01 AM
Were those heads ported/polished at all??? Were they tested at 28" of water??? The numbers seem kinda low.:dunno:
canadian
07-07-2006, 08:39 AM
Were those heads ported/polished at all??? Were they tested at 28" of water??? The numbers seem kinda low.:dunno:
These are basically lightly ported stock 6.0L heads..
Looks like it.
syborg tt
07-07-2006, 10:58 AM
Quick Question - Need to get the pan and everything else for this conversion as i am starting to build an AWD Chassis truck.
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