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View Full Version : Bought an LS1, need advice on install ideas



streetk14
05-05-2006, 10:34 PM
Alright, I have changed my mind about 100 times on what engine to go with for my '68 Camaro. I finally decided to go LSX. I bought a pullout 2002 LS1 and T56 from a 30k mile Trans Am. I would like to keep it mostly stock and add a blower from Kenne Bell www.kennebell.net/superchargers/gm/Corvette/gmCorvette.htm I will start another thread about that. Here are some of my thoughts/ideas for the swap. I have been doing my reading, but want others opinions who have been there already.

1) Engine mounts: I'd like to use the ones from ATS, since I hear they are the best. I have a Wayne Due subframe in the car, and am not sure what kind of clearance issues I will have with their mounts (oil pan, headers). Does anybody know if the stock f-body oil pan will work on this subframe without mods? I know a lot of guys are using the engine mounts from S&P. Is T56 to trans tunnel clearance a problem with these (I heard they raise the engine)? BTW, I will not be running A/C (not needed here).

2) Headers: Stainless works makes a set for the LS1/ Wayne Due subframe combo. They designed the headers using the S&P mounts. I would like to run these headers, but am wondering if the S&P mounts are a good choice.

4) Cooling system: I have a newer Griffin 1.25" double row radiator and complete fan setup from DC Control. They worked great on my old motor. I would like to use these again if possible. The fan is a stand alone system and would not need any input from the ECM or fan relays. Will this work ok? Also, what radiator hoses are used if you run a stock style 1st gen radiator?

5) Fuel system: I would like to run an in-tank pump with a rear mounted Corvette style regulator. This way I will only need one fuel line running to the front. I was looking at getting a stainless tank with a stock LSX fuel pump. How much HP is the stock pump good for? Kenne Bell recommends using their "boost-a-pump" (fuel pump voltage regulator module) with the stock pump for their Vette blower applications. They say it's a better solution than heating up the fuel with a big fuel pump, and is good for at least 500 RWHP. Whatcha
think?

I think that's it for now. It's late and my brain isn't working very well. Any advice or info is appreciated. My motor should be here in about a week, then the fun will begin. Thanks in advance,
Andy

Mark Smith
05-06-2006, 04:11 AM
i have a ls1 and a wayne due sub.i made my own motor mounts designed like the s&p mts.to get the motor exactly where i wanted it i cut the small block mts out and set the motor in then just re welded them there.the stock acc. all work and the pan clears the cross member.this puts the back of the motor about 1.5 inches from fire wall.for the tank i bought a ricks tank with a walbro pump in it.the stock gm pump is rated at 450 horse.plan on stepping up power in the future so i wont need to drop tank to replace pump.not really sure about the tunnel height bacause i cut mine out as it was previously butchered.for headers i want totry those new hooker super comps.

streetk14
05-06-2006, 10:54 AM
i have a ls1 and a wayne due sub.i made my own motor mounts designed like the s&p mts.to get the motor exactly where i wanted it i cut the small block mts out and set the motor in then just re welded them there.the stock acc. all work and the pan clears the cross member.this puts the back of the motor about 1.5 inches from fire wall.for the tank i bought a ricks tank with a walbro pump in it.the stock gm pump is rated at 450 horse.plan on stepping up power in the future so i wont need to drop tank to replace pump.not really sure about the tunnel height bacause i cut mine out as it was previously butchered.for headers i want totry those new hooker super comps.

I have also been looking at a tank from Rick's. The walbro seems like a good choice, I just didn't want to go overboard with some massive fuel pump. I remember hearing about guys on the power tour having big problems with fuel heating up and boiling due to excessive pump flow. I think 1 step up from stock will work along with the "Boost a pump" from Kenne Bell. Thanks for the info,
Andy

black67ls1
05-08-2006, 06:53 AM
I put the LS1/T56 in my 67 Camaro. Used BRP's mounts on a stock subframe so I don't know how this translates to your application. However, BRPs mounts do not move the motor back ... there's in the neighborhood of four inches between the motor and the firewall. Here's the thing. The guy that put the motor and trans in for me had to cut the trans tunnel to make it fit. I would imagine if you moved the motor back it would make the cutting the trans tunnel even more likely. Also, about a year earlier the body shop installed new subframe bushings from Chris Alston's ... these were probably thinner than stock so it may have contributed to the problem. The tunnel was cut from the firewall to behind the shifter hole and tilted up slightly. About an inch of new metal was added to fill the gap.
I really wonder why I haven't heard much about this.

ProBell
05-08-2006, 07:22 AM
Hi Mark
I put a Ls1 in my 67 Camaro. I used the stock sub frame rails with lower solid body mounts. I used S&P motor mounts. I had to cut my tunel a fair amount to fit the trans with room to get the electronics pluged in and to bleed the cluch. I cut the trans mount up inside the car to make lots of room for the exhaust. Good luck, It a fun combo on the street and track. If you plan to track the car make shure you keep the bafflesin the pan. I had a S&P pan on mine and under heavy breaking I lost oil pressure. I had FAB-U- THIS build me a modified stock pan and the problum was solved.
Randy

streetk14
05-28-2006, 12:35 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I wound up buying mounts and T56 install kit from ATS. I should not have to modify my tunnel (you will need to if you use lowering body bushings) since I am using stock height sub bushings. I think the stainless works headers will work fine with the ATS mounts also. I guess we'll see when I get the motor in.
-Andy