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View Full Version : Ford 9" questions & dimension needed



Blown353
05-01-2006, 11:22 AM
Looks like I've hurt the 12-bolt in my car yet again (posi is making horrible noises and you can feel pops and clunks when turning sharp, and the pinion seal is starting to leak yet again) so rather than rebuild it for the 3rd time in 4 years I'm going to cut my losses, sell it, and go with a 9". Just haven't had any luck with the poor thing.

While upgrading to a 9" is great, I really don't want the additional cost of having to rework my 4" aluminium driveshaft. I've tried searching for 9" housing/carrier dimensions and been unable to find anything. What I'm looking for is the dimensions from the axle centerline to u-joint centerline (1350 series) between a 12 bolt and a 9". How do they compare? I'm hoping I will be able to use my driveshaft as-is; altering the length will be at least $250.

Also, question for any of those "in the know" since I'm still in the early stages of research-- while I'd love the weight savings, is an aluminum 3rd member even an option at my power level (about 650rwhp) or should I stick with a nodular iron 3rd member? Any preferred 3rd member manufacturers?

Still shopping for housings as I'm leaning towards a full-floater setup, but any recommendations in that department would be appreciated too. Currently looking at Schreiner Enterprises. I'm going to need the rear end with the stock Chevelle mounts for now, and down the road I'll hack off the upper 4-link ears and the spring mounts when I get my other frame rolling to go 3-link and coil over.

Also, diffs... what's the preference here? Clutch-type Posi, Locker, or Torsen-style? I was leaning towards a True-Trac.

Thanks...

Troy

ProdigyCustoms
05-01-2006, 11:30 AM
Your shaft will be about 1" to long. The aluminum support is nice, but adds a few hundred dollars. A complete bolt in Moser with nodular case, true track, big ends, 1350 yoke, runs about $2200, we just did 3 of these last week.

Blown353
05-01-2006, 02:15 PM
Your shaft will be about 1" to long.

Sounds a bit personal, and when is that ever a problem? :rotfl:

Shortening the driveline is much cheaper than lengthening, about half the cost, somewhere around $150. I could live with that. Lengthening the driveline is almost 2/3 of the cost of a new one!

$2200 complete isn't too bad. I'm looking at doing a full-floater setup for additional piece of mind, what I'm researching now is rotor/brake options. I'd like to be able to reuse my PBR's for now (probably need new rotor hats from Baer) and I can come up with a caliper bracket. I've done several standard-end 9" housings with PBRs and Wilwoods (easy enough, caliper bracket and bearing retainer are one and the same), but I haven't done a full floater yet so I'm not too sure what I'll be dealing with in the rotor and brake department. I know I'll need a weld-on bracket for the caliper, and it looks like the roundy-round stuff uses rotors that bolts directly to the back of the drive plates.

Troy