Prep for Paint

[jvest]

I've got all my sheet metal work done on my 69 Camaro (quarters, roof skin, floor & trunk pans, outer cowl, and dash panel). Now I'm ready to prep for paint. The only place that has body filler on it is the tail panel. Most of the sheet metal has the black coating that come on the parts. I used POR-15 around the door hinge bolt holes and on the rockers, because of some rust pitting.

I would like to know what's the proper steps of priming, before I start painting door & trunk jams. Do I need to remove all the body filler and black coating, then start with etch primer - epoxy primer - high build primer & block sand or something else?

I still have some body filler work to do, I just wanted to make sure I did it at the correct time. The body filler that is in the tail panel is in good shape, but if I need to remove it I will.

I only have time to work on it during the weekends at night, so I can only work small areas at one time.

Once I get this thing ready for paint, I like to paint the jams, then mount the doors and trunk lid before I paint the rest of the car. What's the best paint to use when jamming if I'm going to use base coat/ clear coat on the car?

Thanks for any help,
Jim Vest

[fletcherscustoms]

In my opnion (keep in mind also everyone will have there on and most will be different). I would start by removing the old filler, you never know what type it was or if it has met its life span. You don't wan't it to start cracking on a freshly painted car.

So I would start by removing the old filler, then DA sanding the whole car to remove the EDP coating, then go with a good name brand epoxy primer, do body work and apply filler, block down filler, apply good name brand high build filler ( i prefer Featherfil for first couple of coats) after first coat is one, spray with a guide coat, and start blocking with 220 and find your highs and lows, address any problem areas with filler, then reprime with high build again, block it out with 220 and 400, apply thin coat of sealer, and block out with 600, then paint

[redss86]

How long is the car going to be sitting? If you leave the factory e-coat on the panels until you do the body work, you shouldn't have any problems w/ rusting. It depends on how long it sits after you do the body work, as to wether or not some surface rust will form around the body work.

I would just do all the body work. Then sand the ecoat w/ a red scotch brite or equivelant. After that etch where you have bare metal and then use a high build primer. If the body work on the tail panel is good then I wouln't mess w/ it. Just try not to let the car sit real long before you prime, to keep surface rust from forming on the exposed metal.


Once I get this thing ready for paint, I like to paint the jams, then mount the doors and trunk lid before I paint the rest of the car. What's the best paint to use when jamming if I'm going to use base coat/ clear coat on the car?

Are you asking what brand to use? If so, then that is all a mater of opinion. I would just recommend using all the same brand. As for me personnally, I would use PPG. But that is my personal preference.

Good luck,
Joe

[CRUSTY69]

im in the same boat, ill basically be having a full dynocorn shell, when is the best time to use the seam sealer?

[fletcherscustoms]

We always seam seal before the last coat of primer is put on! I am a firm believer of Epoxy over etch primer. We had a car in PPG epoxy sit outside for over 8 months, no rust anywhere. Brought it in, 80 gritted it, body work, primed, then paint!!

Now Etch does have its place, we use the spray bomb type often! Say you have done all your body work and when you are blocking you burn through to metal , then we rattle can it and prime again. The high build primers will still allow rust to come through. You really need a epoxy or acid etch primer on bare surfaces.

[jvest]

Joe,
On my question about the jams, I was wanting to know what type of paint (single stage urethane or acrylic enamel) I could use that wouldn't melt or lift once I started spraying the base coat.

On the body filler thats on the car now, I think I would be better to start over with something I know is good.

If I epoxy primer the bare metal first then do my body filler work, will I need to be careful not to sand through the epoxy primer?

Thanks,
Jim

[fletcherscustoms]

As far as paint use the same kind you plan to do the entire car with , you'll sand and prep any areas that are oversprayed. Basically if you overspray paint, just sand with 400 before spraying the outside paint!

No worries on sanding through the first coat of epoxy, if you do then just spot the bare metal places with more epoxy before you high build prime. Jsut make sure all bare spots are covered with epoxy or etch before a high build primer.

[CRUSTY69]

thanx, your helping me out as well,
what epoxy primer do you recomend?

[fletcherscustoms]

I am a diehard PPG man!!! Always used it and loved it!! I can't remember off hand on the epoxy, just make sure you get the PPG , and not PPG lesser brand Omni!! I prefer the KP36 high build primer, and only use the there global line of paint and clear. As far as seam sealer I am big fan of 3M 2 part line!

[Gordz32]

ppg's epoxy primer is DPLF and you can get it in like 7 different colors, I love it

[CRUSTY69]

ppg's epoxy primer is DPLF and you can get it in like 7 different colors, I love itthat goes on the bare metal?

[jvest]

Will the epoxy primer stick to the por-15 on my door jams, if I scuff it up with 80 grit?

I did forget about the body filler I put where the quarter and roof skin meet. Will I need to remove it before I spray epoxy primer?

Thanks for all the info,
Jim

[colt zantop]

DPLF will adhere to plastic filler. make sure surfaces are cleaned well before and YES...you can apply DPLF to bare metal. sand bare metal with 80-180 grit.