DSE Mini-Tub on 67 Camaro

[67LSRS]

I have the DSE mini-tub kit mostly installed, Im to the point of the rear shock crossmemeber. Does anyone have pics of there install from under the car? The area where the closeouts are required and also the front of the crossmember where it meets the the bottom layer of the floor. My crossmember does not seem to be long enough to meet this second layer. I called DSE and they want the height above the floor to be 2" so thats where I put it but its about a half inch a way from the second layer.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

[2fast4u]

If your are referring to the long DSE upper shock crossmember bar i too had similar issues when mini-tubbing my 67 Firebird. The important thing is the bar snuggly ties up to the frame rails and is solidly welded in. On mine because it stood out 2" above the trunk floor the rear part of the crossmember bar "floated" about an 1" above the frame rails(they begin to dip down) but I welded the front most part of the crossmember on the frame rails and welded it up against the inner wheel tubs. i also welded the trunkpan surrounding the crossmember bar all around.

IMO opinion although a nice kit, its a flaw in the design of the DSE crossmember bar as its the same piece the accomodates 69 camaros which have a slightly diiferent frame rail/shock member design. Rather that having 2 versions for the 67/68 and the 69 they only make one. -chris

[MrQuick]

are you staggering or keeping your shocks straight? tack the tubs in before you fit your x member. check my homepage for a 67 stagger install. Filler panels were installed in these spots. I can email you some close ups. [email protected]

[67LSRS]

Thanks for the replys, ya I kinda felt the same way about the drivers side wheel tub, its a quick fix to patch it but would have been nice to have a tub for the 67.
MrQuick iam keeping mine straight but if you have time could you send the pics you have on your staggered install? [email protected]
Thanks

[67SSDan]

I'd actually be interested in seeing those as well... can you post them in the thread?

[MrQuick]

here are a few from the site.

http://hometown.aol.com/gumbydmit22/images/dncls.jpg


http://hometown.aol.com/gumbydmit22/images/dsfilllertop.jpg


there are a few that are very large.

[67SSDan]

Dang man, the clearance on that back tire is TIGHT!

[MrQuick]

no thats just the angle of the shot. Its about 3/4" away. The spring is alot closer at 9/16". wait do you mean "tight" as in cool or "tight" as in close?? LOL

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Todds69]

When I first saw the one pic I thought is was "tight" as in close, but the next pic is "TIGHT" as in sweet.

[67SSDan]

Agreed

[DJW32]

Mr. Quick,
What size tire did you put on the back of the camaro? Did you role the lip? Where is your shop located?
Thanks, David

[MrQuick]

Hey David,
sorry i missed this reply.
If you have any questions please email me. I don't get here too often. 315 17's an an11" rim with 5.1/2" back space. Rear housing was narrowed to fit properly.
yes, the lip was rolled abit...he is keeping the stock lip chrome so it wasn't rolled all the way.
We are in San Carlos after our day jobs, 6 day a week and 4 hour a night during project builds. thanks

[SatisTraction]

i still have mine in raw form if you need some more pics. If i was doing it again i would not use a DSE kit on the 67. the kit was not made for them and the close out patterns do not fit the 67. The drivers rear tub does not fit either.

If i were doing it over i would buy repro wheel tubs and add the 3", buy the comp eng shock tower, and then buy the comp offset hangers or make my own.

i also spoke with the owner of DSE (cant recall his name) and he did not reccomend swapping the 67 to staggard shocks in the process. he said he did not see any gain in the extra work.

[SatisTraction]

MR. Quick

what shock is that? i mean what part#? did you use the DSE upper mount? I am thinking about installing the stock 67 upper mount in the DSE cross member to give me more shock options.

[67LSRS]

Thank you for the pics MrQuick, They have helped me.

Satistraction If you have pics of the crossmember install I would be interested to see those. ([email protected]) Also other then the drivers wheel tub being cut for the staggered shock where else did it not fit? With mine I just had the big notch in it for the shock mount, which is farther back towards the rear of the 68-69. Once I patched the cutout with a template from the factory wheel tub I had no other fittment issues.

Thanks All

[SatisTraction]

it is all installed now but there is no rear in it. i can get some pics for you.

[67LSRS]

Thanks that would be great. I just seem to get a better idea of ehat I need to do when I see an example. Thanks for all the help everyone! I appreciate it.

[MrQuick]

what shock is that? i mean what part#? did you use the DSE upper mount? I am thinking about installing the stock 67 upper mount in the DSE cross member to give me more shock options.

To be quite honest with you the DSE upper mount IMHO is over kill for a non coil over set up.
It was originally designed to support a coil over suspension car (El Twister). A simple reinforced box with the stock original upper shock mount welded to it. It would save ALOT of time not to have to fit the DSE unit. I believe Ron or Brian did a nice box style mount. Sorry I have terrible memory.

The shock is an off the shelf part. I can get the PN for tomorrow. Or maybe the owner will chime in. Oh Mikey? Are you out there?:candle: anytime guys

[SatisTraction]

The shock is an off the shelf part. I can get the PN for tomorrow. Or maybe the owner will chime in. Oh Mikey? Are you out there?:candle: anytime guys

great, thanks!!!!

[mdprovee]

I can look this weekend for the shock part number. They are QA1. I got them from Naake.

[Y-TRY]

Hey guys- From your experience, would you say that it's possible to fit a 315/17 under the car without offset hangers (just the tubs and relocated shocks)? Or will the tire hit leaf springs?

[Steve68]

I think hit the leaf,

[MrQuick]

i concure you will need to move them springs
...thanks mike, I have the pn at the shop but never made it down there tonight....damn bunny rabbit!

[SatisTraction]

any luck on those part numbers?
thanks
chris

[MrQuick]

I will get it for you tomorrow night. For sure.

[mdprovee]

Sorry about not getting the part number...it has been a hectic couple of days. I looked but didnt find my reciept, but havent had time to look under the car to see if the number is on the shocks. Will look tonight.

[SatisTraction]

no problem. i am not held up any. there is just a GP and i want to get in on it!!!
thanks
chris

[Jim68nC]

i've been working on my mini-tub dse cross (staggered '68 ) as well. I had to weld on 1/8"x 1/2 " x 6" (ish) flat stock to the front and rear in places in order for it to come down far enough to fully close in the lower front floor portion as well as the drivers side rear to trunk pan section.

I cut the trunk pan completely out from the cross member rear (rusted anyway) and all the way to the new wheel tubs so that I could weld it down to the top of the frame plate on both the front and rear facing sides of the cross member. I have it welded down now and most of it fully welded on the 3 sides and lower front (not dressed in to my satisfaction yet though) I too could provide photos of what I have going on if needed but you should get the idea with that description i think. I can't say that I would go this route again for several reasons but it's too late to turn back now. (airbar would have been easier and sufficient to meet my needs for instance) I am not a fabricator/welder by trade so I've chalked most of my slowness up to that fact but i've around my shop awhile too... lol.

Anyway, i'm getting close to finishing the mini-tub up. I do have a nagging concern, that is should I be worried about the frame notch patches? I have never read of someone having trouble in that area after the fact, but it just doesn't seem like much frame / material patched in to hold up to much stress (the frame is weak to begin with). This coupled with my first welder sucked so bad (not that I'm a welder either) I used it as an excuse to bump up to the Hobart Ironman 210. The new welder certainly eliminates that excuse hehehe, Anyway, I've been considering boxing over the existing rear frame with 1/8" stock and tieing that in to the new cross member for added rigidity/strength. Does this sound crazy to you guys? Should I just move on and not worry about it or strengthen it further? Thoughts?

[67LSRS]

I have the crossmember welded in and I also have the trunk pan removed, (Replacing because of scale ruston surface) I have welded in closeouts by the frame rail itself and then I am going to weld in the larger full closeouts for the crossmember. I too have a concern with the frame rails but when you think about it you already boxed it in heavier then factory with the 1/8th plate you put it the cut out area. I dont think it will be any weaker then factory. My here though is to place two supports from the rear rollbar struts to the area right above the frame notch, this should take care of any weakness. I have seen people box the frame but personally I dont like the look, it just looks like a "repaired frame rail" but I will keep an eye on the area after I get it on the road, hopefully before I retire LOL, actually I hope by the end of summer but at this point its a just a goal not sure how realistic.

[mdprovee]

I stagered my shocks...I used QA1 STS1915P. I purchased them from Nakke.com. They are out of Roseville, CA. 916-771-zero one zero nine. They even rebuild them. $140 each.

[MrQuick]

thanks Mike, I dropped the ball again...they had donuts there. LOL

I had to do the same Jim, so yes that makes you crazy! LOL

Reinforcment is good as long as its staggared by atleast 2".

[SatisTraction]

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!