Can A builder read these bearing shells for me

[LowBuckX]

Im tearing down this 406 and found All the bearings so far look great but for 2.
The front main and the rear main. The motor spins very nice by hand so I dont think it is bent. This is a 2 bolt with ARP bolts and a cast crank.
Here are the bottoms which look more of a bronzy color than ive seen before. But dont seem burnt.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is the rear main off the cap. Notice the Blue ish hue and copper on a weird part And BOTH thrush surfaces are copper.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here is the front main (cap side)
All looks good but for the copper near the keyed section
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
As I said all others looks good besides these two. Im usually good at reading bearing but Ive not seen these marks before.
The car sat for 3 years after blowing up the third trans he had bolted to it. But he did fire it up everry few months.
2 things I found is he had the converter shimmed away from the flywheel and tight to the trans pump which could have caused the rear thrust surface to copper but dont know why the front surface would be copper also.
Also he had 1 seeping head bolt so there was a small amount of coolant in the oil but not enough to see visually and he had heavy oil maybe 20/50 in it.
These are Clevite "H" bearings I will be replacing them but dont want it to happen again
Thanks

[LowBuckX]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/bearingwear/bearingwearanalysis.htm
I read this also but cant figure it out. I think the water in the oil had alot to do with it.most all the other bearings had shiney spots according to the link that is cold start with early rpm run up. (reving it cold

[myclone]

:banghead:

[LowBuckX]

Cast GM crank. I guess I need a shop to check this out.

[myclone]

I guess I need a shop to check this out.

I guess you do.

BTW what exactly was the purpose of your question if youre going to take everything to a shop anyways? If I would have known you werent willing to take a few minutes to set up a dial indicator and make an attemp at looking for yourself to possibly diagnose the problem or at the very least learn something I wouldnt have wasted 15 minutes of my time.

Sorry to be an ass here but I was under the impression that you did things yourself to not only save a few bucks but to learn as well but Ive seen ppl like you before. You pick someones brain who is trying to help/teach you just so you have enough info to go find a low ball/hack machine shop just so you can tell them what you want done and not have to pay a cent more for anything else.

Maybe some day you will learn that your sig is 100% incorrect. Have a nice day.

[LowBuckX]

Did you miss this this thread https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17259
Thanks for what ever.

[Jagarang]

I guess you do.

BTW what exactly was the purpose of your question if youre going to take everything to a shop anyways? If I would have known you werent willing to take a few minutes to set up a dial indicator and make an attemp at looking for yourself to possibly diagnose the problem or at the very least learn something I wouldnt have wasted 15 minutes of my time.

Sorry to be an ass here but I was under the impression that you did things yourself to not only save a few bucks but to learn as well but Ive seen ppl like you before. You pick someones brain who is trying to help/teach you just so you have enough info to go find a low ball/hack machine shop just so you can tell them what you want done and not have to pay a cent more for anything else.

Maybe some day you will learn that your sig is 100% incorrect. Have a nice day.

I got the impression that LowBuck just didn't get quite as much feedback from the board as he would have liked. It seems that you have been having a PM discussion together, and it seems that he followed the advise you gave him by checking things for trueness(is that a word?). Perhaps he is just being cautious and covering all of his bases. He obviously took the information you supplied him with and utilized it, but may not feel confident enough as a "novice" in applying your valuable instruction, and would prefer to have someone else physically verify his findings for his own peace of mind.

Where is the "take a pill" smiley?

[LowBuckX]

The only Pm talk I had with hiscyclone was to call him an ass and to direct him to my post on what I found when i did what he said in his first post that he erased in a huff.

This is his responce via PM For everyone to see.

Maybe I did miss that post (I havent checked the link yet) but I spent quite a bit of time on the response to your post only to get "Im going to take it to a shop".

Maybe Im wrong but you seem to want to do things on a budget which I can more than understand since Im not made of cash either but I spent a LOT of time trying to give a fellow DIY'er info under the assumption that you were wanting info/opinions for your own education.

Only to get the "Im going to take it to a shop"......

You can call me an ass if it makes you feel better but Im still confused on why you asked the question in the first place other than so you could take the crank/block to a machine shop and just pay for checking the line bore/crank straightness. None the less it pisses me off when I make an attempt at educating someone for what appears to be their desire to learn only to find out theyre just trying to keep from paying someone to do it.

At the very least get yourself a cheap import $30 dial indicator and do some checking or at the very least spend $2 on some plastigauge and check things out. You might learn something that way.

Like I said. Have a nice day.

You must have still missed the post about me putting a dial indicator on it. I thank you for your detailed responce just wish i could still see it..

PS how does blowing up $4000 worth of engine compare to $65 to have it checked by a shop.