View Full Version : gets to sideways
copo69
03-25-2006, 10:31 PM
okay my problem is this first a lil info . 69 camaro 540 cu in over the 800 hp mark t -400 410 gears my front suspension is upper and lower speedtech a arms qa-1 coil overs adjustable springs and shocks . rear is dse spring kit qa-1 adjustable shocks slide a link bars zr rated radials 18x275x40 . the problem is it always wants to go sideways . at launch its sideways at 40mph it gets sideways if you stand on it and if you stand on it at 60-70 mph it almost changes lanes. what is the trick/secret to get the first gen to go straight . i have had 6 camaros in my 42 years and only one went straight it was a 68 with a 400 hp motor and a one legger 10 bolt.
what do i need to do or what is the problem. any info suggestions or ideas will be appericiated. thank you :banghead:
ProdigyCustoms
03-25-2006, 10:48 PM
Ahhh, poor baby! LOL! Seriously, it will ride like sheot, but you can play with pre load in your slide a link.
copo69
03-25-2006, 11:04 PM
gee thanks for all the help LOL
Lowend
03-26-2006, 01:34 AM
Just curious - have you replaced the subframe bushings with solids? How about subframe connectors? Your home page does not say anything about them.
If not, those two things will improve the predictability of the car vastly and improve your side-stepping problem a ton
ProTouring442
03-26-2006, 03:16 AM
Seems to me that with that much HP you are just lighting-up the tires. Once both rear tires are using all of there traction making smoke, I don't think they are going to be very interested in trying to keep it going straight. I don't think I have ever seen a car that doesn't become a handful when the rear timres are spinning like mad. :3gears:
Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"
vanzuuk1
03-26-2006, 03:58 AM
Remove four plug wires.
Steve68
03-26-2006, 06:36 AM
Make a throttle stop under the gas pedal, not allowing the secondays to open, four plug wires hehehe,
Firm up the suspension, subframe connectors, mess with preload on the links, etc,
vanzuuk1
03-26-2006, 08:14 AM
You should your throttle linkage and pedal layout, if you have wierd angles on your throttle linkage it will feel "snatchy" Play with the springs and linkage untill it feels smooth and linear. Sometimes a stiff return spring makes it hard to modulate the pedal.
You could also put a "throttle sponge" on the cable, speedway motors has them, them use them in circle track for low grip tracks.
These are small things to check, but if you have that much hp the car will still be a handful.
copo69
03-26-2006, 08:59 AM
maybe i didnt provide enough info.
yes i have the dse sub frame connectors installed and i have alum bushings every place except my trany tail shaft mount its polly and my very rear spring mounts are poly . i also have another problem maybe you guys can help with . / of sorry my home page has been down for like a year now havent had a chance to update yet. anyways from day one when i brought this car home its always had a problem making a full turn to the left . i can almost kiss my rear bumper when turning tightly to the right its like i cant turn left as far as i can turn right. when i had a blown small block in the car and went to a manual box my turning radius was great both ways . now that im back to power again with a diffrent box than the old one that was on the car i still loose turning radius to the left and can turn for days to the right . any ideas or suggestions on this . ? im verry puzzled as to why when it has a power box on it with 2 1/2 turns side to side i cant get any radius to the left drop the 3 1/2 manual box on the car and i can drive circles in a neighborhood side street in any direction with power i can only do this when turning right ?
chicane67
03-26-2006, 11:59 AM
Remove four plug wires.
I'll second that........
sinned
03-26-2006, 12:49 PM
Classic example of too much power. Believe it or not, there is a point where you simply have too much. A lot also depends on gearing and engine valve train choices also, choosing a poor cam profile or cylinder head will keep the power peak very low, great for drag racing but so nice for a street car or road course car where you need to be able to throttle out of a corner without breaking the tires loose. At 800HP I would guess it’s a combination of everything, too much power coming on too soon. De-tune the engine or sell it and build something more suited to your intended purpose.
copo69
03-26-2006, 02:26 PM
i havent gotten to log many miles in it yet its still basically fresh and was hoping some of you over the edge power guys might have had similar issues and had some info to share . i have like 3 weeks before i can leave my garage and know that its not gonna rain then i can start playing with suspension tuneing.. i have even thought of dropping the rear gears to maybe 342 ,s my duration on my cam is 262/268 @50 with dart 335 cncheads . im thinkin i shoulda maybe went 355,s to kill some bottom end . . but i will let you all know what my end result is soon as i can get out in the sun. and take some videos to. thanks much guys .
vanzuuk1
03-26-2006, 02:29 PM
I was serious about the linkage and throttle sponge, it could help.
Was the output shaft on center when you installed the steering box?
paul67
03-26-2006, 03:03 PM
this is quick chek to make sure the car wheels run parrel, get a long piece of string and tie it to the rear bumper pass it down the side of the car with the string 1/2 way up the rear wheel and walk towards the front of the car passed the front wheel so the string is pulled tight now bring the string tight towards the front wheel till it touches the front edge of the rear tire take a measurement front the front wheel centre to the string do the same the to other side if they are not the same the cars crabing down the road ie going side ways , this could be rear axle , or sub frame
copo69
03-26-2006, 03:54 PM
when we centered the rearend in the car we did it at the local les schwab to get it inline. what would be really nice 9is to see some picks of your pitman arms location and tie rods adjustment . my e mail is
[email protected] yes the arm was on straight as it has a cut groove in them all from factory
i would go with a tunable 4 link rear suspension, keep the angle of the top bars very shallow or even parallel to move your moment center forward, doing this will shock the tires less when you put the hammer down. Start with the links parallel and keep moving the top links down a notch until the tires are over powered. Also you can pre load a tire to make that bad boy go in a straight line when the tires break loose. Never settle for less power. Good engineering is what will make your car drive well not less power. You could get the same results from a 3 link or trailing arm suspension as well. It is harder to tune the moment center with Leaf springs, and traction bars on leafs are detrimental to lateral traction. ALL of these suspension systems have pro's and cons the trick is to hi light the good things about your suspension and try to tune the bad things out enough so they are livable.
Wildron
03-26-2006, 05:53 PM
:3gears: i think we need to see some video.so we can evaluate your problems correctly.
chicane67
03-26-2006, 05:58 PM
It is harder to tune the moment center with Leaf springs, and traction bars on leafs are detrimental to lateral traction. ALL of these suspension systems have pro's and cons the trick is to hi light the good things about your suspension and try to tune the bad things out enough so they are livable.
....Unless you know how to build leaf springs. A spring can be built to nail the IC without using traction bars.
I do however agree that the pros and cons need to be thoughtout and first put your attention to the bad things that can be adjusted. From there, it is all about compromise.
copo69
03-26-2006, 07:28 PM
rob m now your talkin my language do you have a specific sysetm in mind maybe a web site ? that i can look at . ? and wild ron as soon as the rains stop i will get some video but for now here are some spec,s to chew on. gm race prep block worked by dave riolo racing engines cnc indexed . calies4.250 stroke crank carillo h beam rods srp pistons 4.500 bore 1.25 domes hellfire rings. isky solid roller 736 int 714 exh 262/268@50 red zone tallk body lifters fe spec . dart pro 1 335 cnc heads 230 intake 1.80 exh cnc matched dominator dart clover intake blended by dave riolo all the way through . 1050 dominator from pro systems built by patrick. comp 9000 mallory promaster coil hyfire iv box turbo 400 3500/3800 sthal built at smi -shift management incorperated 12 bolt with bolt in axles from moser eaton carrier with 410 gears total compression is 10.85.1 lemons step tube headers custom made for my set up with saginaw box 2 1/8 into 2 5/8 then into a 4 inch collector reduced into 3 1/2 pipe into delta flows. and yes when the rains stop the videos will start ..
gsxrken
03-26-2006, 08:25 PM
Just a thought on your carrier... perhaps you can check the breakaway torque specs on the drivers side wheel. If the unit is not functioning properly, any wheelspin may be lopsided and point you towards the curbs.
Watch out, by the way. Things can get expensive in a half a heartbeat with a tail-happy car.
chicane67
03-26-2006, 08:40 PM
Here is a list of threads that deal with this specific subject, and platform:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14943&highlight=lateral+dynamics
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=203
http://https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208
http://https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220&highlight=lateral+dynamics+link
540' chevelle
03-27-2006, 09:56 PM
Hey same problem I have a 540 in a Chevelle with a t400 and 355 gears and a bigger tire 295 and my car does the same. To much power and not a big enough tire. You should mini tub and get a much bigger tire like 335. What stall converter are you using?
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