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View Full Version : FYI on AFCO radiators



phoenixdawg
03-22-2006, 05:25 PM
Spoke with their customer service to get a quote on a custom radiator for my 68 Camaro conversion. Quote direct fit, dual pass rad 497.00 3 weeks lead time. I figure I can work a Mark VII and Afco set up for about 750.00. Radiator will have both upper and lower Hose connects on same side.

Damn True
03-23-2006, 09:54 AM
Do they have an option for an integrated oil cooler?

capbuster
03-23-2006, 10:33 AM
I was looking at these too. I was also leaning toward the two pass design, but had concerns about the increased pressure required/generated by the two pass design. Is the original 4th gen/LS1 a 2 pass radiator?

Did your quote also include the correct sized inlet and outlet pipe sizes?

phoenixdawg
03-23-2006, 07:13 PM
yes on both accounts, correct inlet sizes and they will also have an option for integrated oil cooler. All though the tech guy suggested using an inline cooler.

I would suspect that if enough are interested we could get a gp on radiators from them.

rocketman
03-23-2006, 10:09 PM
i ran them in my pavement late model years ago,great rad's,never had any problems with them,afco is one of the best palce's to deal with

scogin918
03-24-2006, 04:19 AM
Just make sure they include the steam vent fitting coming off of the block. Ron Davis forgot to do that on mine. We had to weld a new bung on the radiator.

ilovefirstgens
03-25-2006, 10:48 AM
or you could do what i did was to buy the universal double pass 26x19 and have a shop weld some flanges to it... the rad itself was $225 and i havent had the flanges put on yet.

whats the deal with the steam vent fitting?

Steve1968LS2
03-25-2006, 01:33 PM
Spoke with their customer service to get a quote on a custom radiator for my 68 Camaro conversion. Quote direct fit, dual pass rad 497.00 3 weeks lead time. I figure I can work a Mark VII and Afco set up for about 750.00. Radiator will have both upper and lower Hose connects on same side.

Hell yea.. I just got my AFCO LSx radiator yesterday.. they were able to do all the custom options I asked for.. I will try and snap a pic this weekend.

Also, they include polishing in the cost. They will send it to you unpolished but I think the price stays the same. They were also able to include AN style bungs for my overflow and crossover steam hose.

Having both the inlet and outlet on the same side is VERY helpful.. they you just need these hoses. (well you should.. sorta depends on how far back you engine is.

Steve1968LS2
03-25-2006, 01:35 PM
or you could do what i did was to buy the universal double pass 26x19 and have a shop weld some flanges to it... the rad itself was $225 and i havent had the flanges put on yet.

whats the deal with the steam vent fitting?

They will add a bung for it.. BUT.. I have a better idea. I simply had Meziere put a fitting in the top of the water pump so the hose goes from the crossover tube directly back into the water pump.. The hose will only be a few inches long that way and should make for a cleaner engine bay. My '69 had the hose run to the drivers side of the radiator.

CarlC
03-25-2006, 01:38 PM
I'd suggest using the in-tank cooler design. If for no other reason, it makes packaging significantly easier than an inline type.

If you are planning on spending some quality time on a road coarse a cooler will make your time at the track much more enjoyable.

My C&R dual is in the $450-500 range. It a pretty serious piece. Add on $100 for brackets and welding, $150 for a Mark VIII fan, and $125 for a DC conroller. In August at Buttonwillow, with ambient temps of 104*, it never broke 185*. Asthetically it's not 100%, but functionally it's hard to beat.

You may also want to consider an oil temperature thermostat. CV has a really nice one. Check the archives for some great discussion on this topic.

ilovefirstgens
03-25-2006, 05:08 PM
They will add a bung for it.. BUT.. I have a better idea. I simply had Meziere put a fitting in the top of the water pump so the hose goes from the crossover tube directly back into the water pump.. The hose will only be a few inches long that way and should make for a cleaner engine bay. My '69 had the hose run to the drivers side of the radiator.

I am just gonna use the ls6 rear plugs for all four of the coolant ports so thats one less thing to worry about.

As for the hoses i may just be going crazy but i remember people saying that the hose from the top of the rad goes to the lower port on the engine and vise versa. I may be wrong but it seems that on steves setup it is top to top and bottom to bottom...

And i never realised that my rad fittings and those on the engin are different size, any thoughts on how to fix it, or should i just wing it?

Steve1968LS2
03-26-2006, 10:02 AM
I am just gonna use the ls6 rear plugs for all four of the coolant ports so thats one less thing to worry about.

As for the hoses i may just be going crazy but i remember people saying that the hose from the top of the rad goes to the lower port on the engine and vise versa. I may be wrong but it seems that on steves setup it is top to top and bottom to bottom...

And i never realised that my rad fittings and those on the engin are different size, any thoughts on how to fix it, or should i just wing it?

Bad idea.. that cross over pipe is there for a reason. If you don't use it you could have HOT POCKETS where the coolant won't circulate and cause you mucho problemos..

It's top to top and bottom to bottom.. the other way would work I guess but just be goofy.. lol

ilovefirstgens
03-26-2006, 09:08 PM
Bad idea.. that cross over pipe is there for a reason. If you don't use it you could have HOT POCKETS where the coolant won't circulate and cause you mucho problemos..

It's top to top and bottom to bottom.. the other way would work I guess but just be goofy.. lol

I'd love to hear if anyone has had a real case of this, im sure it has however i am curious how its okay to block off the rears with the ls6 style yet the fronts still have to be vented.... and the issue with the rad is that its reverse flow so the coolant would go in on the bottom and up then out, and some people seemed to think that adversely affected the cooling, im sure if your engine survives like that ill be fine.

Okay done with the thread hijack!

67RScamaroVette
03-26-2006, 10:03 PM
Ilovefirstgens-
It'd be easier to fill that way, wouldn't it? Just fill the radiator up, loosen the top hose to relieve pressure, and crank the engine until it flows? And what do you mean by welding "flanges" to the universal radiator? do you mean aluminum "angle iron" to mount it? Is it a summit style deal?

ilovefirstgens
03-26-2006, 10:53 PM
haha back to the thread hyjack, though im using an afco rad so it applies to the title.

I measured and ordered a universal rad, however they did not have pics just diagrams of the sixe however the mounting flanges are on top and bottom and look like crap. so yes essentially alum angle iron, probably just some sheet put on a brake it is alum afterall.

shanekennedy
10-03-2006, 04:41 PM
or you could do what i did was to buy the universal double pass 26x19 and have a shop weld some flanges to it... the rad itself was $225 and i havent had the flanges put on yet.

whats the deal with the steam vent fitting?

how is your universal double pass working out?