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navyflyer72
03-05-2006, 05:57 AM
I was just jumpering teh underdrive pulley pins on my DC controller to give a constant 10% minimum current, when I started the engine the fan did not turn at all, (may be the way I have the DC Controller wired, however the BIG problem I noticed was that my upper radiator hose was being collapsed, as if there was a blockage or something and the walls of the hose were being collapsed. I shut down the engine and checked the radiator fluid level and it was about 3 inches below the cap level (the engine was cold). So I filled the radiator to full and I wanted to see if anyone knew why this might happen before I start the engine again. Problem is I have to leave for a 4 hour trip in this car in about 5 hours, so I am in need of some seriously fast assistance. Thanks.

-George

79_EFI_Z
03-05-2006, 03:43 PM
if it was collapsed right at start up it could be that maybe there was a vacuum in the system after the car cooled last time u ran it? and the air in the system contracted?

gmachinz
03-08-2006, 02:41 PM
George, exactly how do you have the controller wired? There shouldn't be any confusion but I'd like to know and see if I can help you out. -Jabin

engine
03-08-2006, 08:01 PM
From the DC website:


Underdrive

If underdrive pulleys are installed and the vehicle is prone to overheating at idle, a jumper is provided (13,14) to render a 10 % minimum current to the fan whenever the ignition is on in order to aid in convection flow. The ignition input wire must be connected to use this feature.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif



what temperature are you seeing? Do you have any other jumpers installed? What temp does the fan turn on?

Dust87ss
03-09-2006, 09:08 AM
Do you have the IGN wire hooked up to the controller or only the BATT wires?

navyflyer72
04-01-2006, 09:44 PM
i have the DC controller wired as shown above, except I have the power wire going to a battery junction block (battery was relocated to trunk) and I have the ground to a chassis ground, and I have the surge protector installed across the positive-negitive terminals of the DC controller. I think I may have found the problem but need help with the solution. You see I have a Be Cool radiator (for manual trans) and a catch can that is not vented. As soon as I start the engine the top radiator hose collapses, if I shut off the engine the hose remains collapsed, when I open the radiator the hose returns to normal. I think I need a vent somewhere in the system, most likely in the catch can, but how do I do that, there is only a petcock on the bottom of the catch can for draining it, but no vent. Any ideas would be appreciated.

-George

gmachinz
04-04-2006, 07:51 PM
Hopefully you do not have your main charge lead for the battery also hooked up on that junction-anything approaching 14V can damage the controller. Stay at 12.40 or lower on the +12V battery lead for the controller. -Jabin

Charley Lillard
04-05-2006, 05:56 AM
Sounds like your thermostat is still closed.

navyflyer72
05-15-2006, 04:16 PM
I swapped engines due to a ring sealing issue, put a GM Perf crate motor in her (very little HP, but this is my daily driver currently and I need her reliable through the summer), so she has the 350/290 motor, with a cam swap, edelbrock air gap and Demon 650 and she is running great. I drilled a smaill 1/8" hole in the top of the overflow and all of a sudden she runs right at 180 even in traffic. Understand that this is with both jumpers on the DC controller, but I am still a bit impressed with the performance. Can't wait to see how it performs in the heat of the summer with the a/c going... I figure she may go up a bit, but will survive the summer. After that I am getting a piece of crap to take to work. Put too much into the Camaro right now to even buy a piece of crap, so I have no choice but to drive her. It's a sin, I have a crappy ($120) fitted cover and no garage and she stays out in the thunderstorms and rain and every other act of nature, got no choice though. Thanks for all the advice guys.

-George