AN fittings and braided hose

[kman67rsss]

im looking to build some fuel line for the 67. i was looking at the braided line and an fittings, thing is i have never used either. what do i need to know, and what special things do i need. i know one is a 37 deg flair tool, but what else. are these difficult to work with. how bout cutting the line, tubing cutters? any help would be great. thanks

[Woody]

Here is some general information you might find useful.

http://www.russellperformance.com/automotive/pdf/2002cat/01-14_hose.pdf

I just did a fuel line and I found the braided line fairly easy to work with. Hacksaws are recommended for cutting, but a dremel tool with a disk works well for cutting also.

[andrewb70]

Keep in mind that all hose is not created equal.

Andrew

[Kenova]

I did the fuel lines in my Nova (feed and return) with aluminum lines and A/N fittings. The only places I used braided steel line were locations where I thought I would need some flex.
Buy the fittings and hose from the same manufacturer and spend the money for the best tube cutter you can find. You shouldn't have any problems. I found both the braided line and aluminum tubing very easy to work with.
As an option, you might look at the newer nylon braided lines. I understand it is lighter and more flexable than braided steel. It's something I'll consider next time.
Ken

[Jagarang]

Didn't I read somewhere sometime that braided fuel lines "sweat" and leak fumes/fuel? Something about using them on the front to rear lines connecting the tank to the motor and the like? I'm not sure if the "run" length matters and the like.

[tyler mckee]

to cut braided line go get yourself a big ol' concrete/maronry chisel from your hardware store, grind a nice sharp edge on it. then get yourself a thick chunk of aluminum doesnt need to be big 6"x6" is plenty. then just set your hose on the aluminum and give the chisel a good solid blow with a 5lb sledge, makes a nice clean cut and no more bloody fingers. read this in a magazine a few weeks ago and it works great.

edit: just be careful if you dont have much experience behind the handle of a hammer or a few cut fingers will be the least of your worries:injured:

[rocketrod]

To cut I wrapped the hose tightly with strand tape, then using a 3" cutoff wheel I would cut through the braided sheathing around the entire line then cut through the inner rubber core (low pressure hose).

[CarlC]

Two referance books that will make your plumbing easier to understand:

1) Carrrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing. It's a great, easy to understand, no-nonsense book written by one of the best-ever race car builders.

2) Get an Aeroquip fittings catalog. Read it cover-to-cover five times.

Personally, I like the Aeroquip hose fittings the best.

Do some searches on this site. There is info on hardline tubing as well.

[parsonsj]

Here's an alternative hose cutting alternative:

Wrap with masking tape, cut with metal bandsaw, then remove the frayed stuff with a belt sander by holding the hose at a 90 degree angle to the sanding surface. Remove the masking tape, then assemble.

jp

[kman67rsss]

wow, this was dug up from the past. i actually cut it by wrapping it with electrical tape and hitting in with a grinder and cut off disc. worked pretty good.

[parsonsj]

I used the bandsaw because I was "whittling": taking 1/4" to 1/2" off at a time to get the perfect length.

Anybody got any good tips for measuring the hose length?

jp

[Matt@RFR]

Take a hose end apart. The (insert correct term here) where the hose slides into will have a register in the back of it where the hose will but against. Note that register on the outside of the (correct term).

With the hose end assembled the way it would be after final assembly, put the bare hose end on it's fitting and hand tighten at the correct angle if it's something other than a straight.

Measure between witness marks on hose ends or string hose and mark. You should be able to get within ± 1/16" that way.

[rockdogz]

I went with Aeroquip hose and ends (man, do those ends add up!! $$$).
One thing I would say is don't forget the lube and the inserts for your vise to hold the ends in place. Both highly recommended, if not absolutely necessary in my book.

[Matt@RFR]

I'll second Tom on both counts. Mandatory.

[96Z28SS]

On my last car I had over $1000 in fitting and hose the suff adds up real quick.

I have this real neat tool its a big scissor, I purchased it at Home Depot after I saw what the local race engine shop was using. Just take the hose mark with tape what the length has to be and snip your done. Perfect every time.

I'll post a picture later of the tool.

[yody]

I probably have over $1,000 i hose and fittings
fuel system, which has 2 lines coming from sump on tank, a supply and a return line,
Power steering system with filter and remote resevoir,
oil cooler lines, and more
I used all russell stuff, since you can get it in the endura finish for reasonabe prices. There is a huge differnece between good hose and cheap stuff. THe cheap stuff is such a pain to use. It frays out when you cut it no matter what. If you get any decent hose, it won't fray out. I just use electrical tape and an angle grinder with cut off wheel, works perfect everytime. I just put a papertowel in teh vice, never scratches. Also make sure to use the proper lube

[EFI69Cam]

I learned an awesome trick from a old-timer. Bolt cutters, like the ones you use to cut master locks, with the 24" handles, cut braided hose like nobody's business. I messed with the chop saws and electrical tape, dremels and all that and the bolt cutters work the absolute best.