how much power can a stock 350 block handle?

[D1Camaro]

I have a 350 bored 40 over that is making 580 rwhp. I am planning on stepping up the boost from 15lbs to about 22lbs. I know my rotating assembly can handle the extra power, but im not sure about the block. Does anyone know how much a stock 4bolt main block can handle?

[WS6]

have you thought about adding block harder?

[D1Camaro]

Id rather not this car does a lot of street driving and I dont want overheating problems.

[rumblee]

It really depends. Certain older blocks have a higher nickel content making them stronger. Is it a two or 4 bolt block? The block prep will also affect it. I have also heard of using block cement, but only halfway up, and people having good results with that. Basically, there is only one way to find out. Trial and error.

[LowBuckX]

Everything Ive read has said using block cement and hard block up to the bottom of the freeze plugs actually helps in cooling the motor . The bottom half of the block doesnt see as much heat and it also help in keeping the heat out of the oil pan.. (wrong)

****EDIT*****
I just went back and re read the info from David Vizard. He claims you can fill the block 2/3 up with no significant increase in temp. But you will also have a bonus of not Over cooling the oil.

He claims you want 170* water and 200*oil for optimum..

[Lowend]

At 040 over... I'm nervous

[indyjps]

you can check out your casting year and that may help help you figure out the "quality" of the casting, there are also cast in numbers on the block that will help you identify if its a high nickel content block. 010 020 are ussually cast into the block, dont remember what each means anymore.
do you have a stock 4 bolt or a 2 bolt converted to splayed 4 bolt or if you have looked into bottom end girdles. also depends on your compression ratio if your gonna split the cylinder walls.

[D1Camaro]

its a 4 bolt main block out of a 60's vette

[shmoov69]

Should be no problem if you keep it out of detonation and the cyl bores are true with no piston slap (wobble). I see no problem at all with the exception of any fluke deal to screw it all up. IMO

[rocketman]

the block will be fine,its all in the prep work,and the block filler is no biggie i have 1/2 filled(to the freeze plugs) lt-1 block and drive it alot.runs 180 all day in the summer 90-100 dregee temp.i have personally made 900hp on a stock block and lived.

[gt1guy]

The 010 and 020 refer to the nickel and tin content of the block when it was poured. The numbers are located under the timming cover.

Kevin

[D1Camaro]

Thanks for all the info. Ill keep my fingers crossed when it goes on the dyno next month

[BRIAN]

All these years I never heard someone refer to the 010 or 020 as the mix or amount of nickel. I would assume the .020 is stronger?? or??? Good info.

[ItsA68]

I'm pretty sure the nickle and tin numbers will mostly effect the wear characteristics of the bore, and not necessarily the overall strength of the block. need to check the Vizard book...

Personally there's no way I would use a stock block for this app, UNLESS you had the cylinder walls sonic checked for thickness. There are so many variables, and a sonic check is the only good way to know how thick the thrust faces of the cylinders are. Some blocks can go .060 over with no thinness issues, others NONE. Every block is different. I would think the older blocks would be thicker in general, but its not a gurantee. Is the deck plugged? The stock 350 is not a siamesed block, and isn't as strong. If you're already making 580 rwhp, then you probably have a decent part, but I'd say you've been lucky to this point. Why flirt with disaster? Good luck!