which heads?

[justanova]

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/350%20chevy%20engine.html

I am building a long rod 350 like the one in the link. 400 block, 327 crank, comp hyd roller 215/215 @ .050 and 500/500 lift. 10.5/11.0:1 comp. maybe a bigger cam but I dont want to kill low end power. I am looking for 400/400 hp/tq with a power band from around 2000-6000rpm's.

I have been looking at cyl heads and have my choices narrowed down and I am looking for suggestions/recommendations.

1. afr 195 with 2.05/160 valves
2. brodix race rite 180cc or 200cc with 2.02/160 valves
3. dart pro 1 180cc or 200 cc with 2.02/1.60 valves

I will be coating the pistons and combustion chambers/valves/exhaust ports.

I will also be using a weiand stealth intake because I have one laying around.

[rocketman]

i am brodix fan,but the afrs are good to,i run afrs on my 396 lt-1

[SStrokerAce]

Well before you go coating everything... maximize what you have. $1000 in coating is better spent on head and intake porting.... and well ditching that Wieand Stealth intake.

FWIW I have a long rod motor in the shop too.... but I would do a 4.155 x 3.50/3.48 stroke and get more cubes rather than just have a 350. A 377 is a much better deal.

My personal motor is a 4.075 x 3.50 with a 6.250 rod. 215cc Brodix T1 Weld Tech heads, Super Vic intake and some cam to it. Spins to 7,000K easy, has 12+" of vacuum at idle and 600hp, oh yeah and runs on pump gas.

Your lift is not enough at all to make the most power out of the setup AND I would twist the motor to 6500-7000rpm with good parts in it.

Bret

[justanova]

Well before you go coating everything... maximize what you have. $1000 in coating is better spent on head and intake porting.... and well ditching that Wieand Stealth intake.

FWIW I have a long rod motor in the shop too.... but I would do a 4.155 x 3.50/3.48 stroke and get more cubes rather than just have a 350. A 377 is a much better deal.

My personal motor is a 4.075 x 3.50 with a 6.250 rod. 215cc Brodix T1 Weld Tech heads, Super Vic intake and some cam to it. Spins to 7,000K easy, has 12+" of vacuum at idle and 600hp, oh yeah and runs on pump gas.

Your lift is not enough at all to make the most power out of the setup AND I would twist the motor to 6500-7000rpm with good parts in it.

Bret

well, I have already acumulated the parts for the rotating assy. so I think I'm just gonna build the 350, but I agree the extra cubes would be nice. plus my dad has always wanted to build this combo ever since reading that article. While your combo sounds pretty nice, I don't know if it would fit my application correctly,

This engine will be going into my dads daily driven 66 chevy pickup that will probably see some light towing(lawnmower) but mostly just cruising. He also lives in rural Iowa so 91/92 octane gas isn't readily available but 89 is.

I am not looking for a max effort so I dont know if porting is really necessary, maybe just port match to the gaskets. The coatings were just a thought but probably not necessary. Not using the stealth isn't a big deal, I just figured since I have it it might fit the intended use better than a single plane. As far as cam goes I wouldn't mind going bigger but I just don't want to give up too much low end.

So given the limitations set by what I already have and the intende use of this engine, what are your recommendations regarding cam/heads/intake?

Thanks for your input so far, from reading your posts in the past you seem to know what your talking about and I am looking forward to your suggestions.

[SStrokerAce]

Applicaton helps a ton!

Sounds like a truck motor, which I'm going to build for my work truck.

I like that cam for that then, just go to a 1.6 rocker.

If it's low RPM then the smaller heads ported would do the trick. Or even a Vortec GM head, the bowtie versions would even work right out of the box.

PN 25534421, come with springs for that and 1.6's (they say .530" max lift but you can get away with the .003" extra lift since it will never see that anyways in dynamic conditions) The head also bolts up to any intake!

I like the Air Gap intakes, they are just hard to beat in that RPM range.

BTW Clevite has a BEARING not spacer that fits a 2.45" journal (350) crank in a 2.65" (400) block

Bret

[justanova]

If it's low RPM then the smaller heads ported would do the trick.

so the dart or brodix 180's with some port work? Who would you recommend for porting, and what should that cost?

thanks for your help so far.

Brett Collins

[justanova]

how about these heads?

http://sites.reachtheworld.tv/waterNew/default.asp?T=505238&DID=1225

anyone have any experience with these yet?