View Full Version : Panhard Bar for 67 Camaro

09-28-2004, 12:22 PM
Has anyone fabbed one? Any pics? Is there a setup I can buy? I'm looking to buy or fab a panhard bar setup for a multi-leaf rear, but don't know the first place to start looking for the materials-steel and rod thicknesses, joint size/type, etc. Also, can the mounting bracketry be made out of aluminum to save weight or would it have to be so thick that the weight savings would be negligible? Pics of my car are coming!!!

09-28-2004, 08:26 PM
First of all welcome to the site. You can look in the cars section and under 68 Camaro look for Tony Rose. His car has a PHB in it. Also, www.pro-touring.com/water will have some pics of the Mule and its PHB. Further, you can go to www.detroitspeed.com and under projects there is a 68 Firebird with a PHB. All of these designs are close in design. The poblem you will have with those designs is that they all use the DSE upper crossmember for frame mount location.

The bracket material should be steel, if only for the reason of you can not weld steel to alum.

Now for the one question someone will ask. Why do you want to put a PHB on a car with leafs? I know to help in lateral axle location, but is it really needed in this aplication? The leafs will do real good job without the need for the PHB. I am not saying do not do it, just if you need it. If you want to do it, hey it is your car and build it the way you want to.

09-29-2004, 11:59 AM
Thanks for the welcome and the links. When I get pics scanned of my Camaro, I'll post a formal hello to all.
I would love to do a four link or four bar setup (there seems to be a difference on Art Morrison's site) in my car, but lack of garage space and $$$ dictate that I try to optimize my stock rear suspension. After doing a TPI engine and T5 swap I'll have to drive the car daily and get saving for a down payment on a house- WITH A GARAGE! I'm already in a bind for finding a place to do the swap. What is a ballpark figure for the lowest cost of converting to a four link or four bar rear when I'm ready? Would I be better off piecing it together by buying rods and ends separately and fabbing the mounts or by purchasing a kit? Since I noticed two different kinds of four ____ suspensions, which one (if either) is the right design? I also noticed the the upper bars on the mule were not directly above the bottoms. Why? I'd like to start doing my homework now so I can get this car done with minimal headaches and wasted $$$.
I figure I'll do the car in phases. 1) engine / tranny swap and drive as is. 2) Disc brake conversion- drive. 3) Rear suspension work- drive. 4) Front suspension work- drive. 5) Cage and possibly lowering the body to make the floor pan flush w/ the bottom of the front subframe. 6) Paint and interior.

This is a great site!

09-29-2004, 08:34 PM
Wow John do you have some questions. :seizure: Where to start and I will try to keep it as brief as I can and not write tons on suspension geometry. Well what I know at least. Also, I hope others who know much more about suspensions will chime in and correct me if I am incorrect. There really is no "right" design. A four link would be the better of the two choice you have given for a PT car. Now those are not the only choices. There is a member of this board that is in the design stages of a three link kit for the self installer. I do not know any more than that.

Lets start with the cost. Now I do not know directly, but I have heard anywhere from 3k to 8k depending on if you need a new rear end or not. Obvoiusly if you do not need a new rear then it is on the cheaper side. Eveything being relative of coarse. So depending on you fabrication skills it will be much cheaper to do it on your own. I will more than likely do my own three bar and I started with very little knowlege on fabrication.

Now for the Mule's bars. Without getting into Mark Stielows head, I would say they are staggard in plan view to help reduce bind in roll. Also, packaging may have been an issue. If I am wrong please someone correct me.

Doing your car is phases is a great idea. It will give you goals to strive for. One thing though, I would change the order of 3 and 4. You can get a marked improvment with the front suspension. More smiles for the buck. Well maybe not the buck, but the time at lease. That is just my opinion. On number 5, I am not sure what you mean by lowering the floor pan. If you mean using lower sub-frame busings, than they are out there. One thing though you may run into transmision clearance issues using them. They are not a bad thing, just be careful.

One thing I did not see is the sub-frame connectors. They are one of the best bang for the buck for handling. They really will stiffen up the whole cassis. I hope that was not to long.