79camaroUK
09-16-2025, 12:02 PM
Hello,
Currently in the middle of restoration on a 78 T-top Firebird and figured now that the frame rail is exposed from cutting out the rusty area of floor, it seems an opportunity to add in a tube.
I wonder if this would make any difference?
A little more info:
Frame rails are solid, they had some rust on the inside, but as you can see it's mostly cleaned up and the outside of the rail for most parts still has factory paint. There's probably about 90% wall thickness remaining.
In getting this far, I realised the frame is reinforced internally at the large bend that goes down behind the passenger seat. My thinking is to connect tube between this reinforced section and the leaf spring bushing housing. You can see in the images some random tube I placed in for illustration.
It could be welded in a few sections along the length of the frame rail too.
Event better would be have a tube run from the leaf spring bushing housing, past the reinforced area and down to the torque box. Effectively tying in three points. I am replacing the torque boxes so that section is completely cut out. With the torque box connecting to the rockers, this would be a nice way to tie together the rear of the frame to the rocker (I'll start a new thread on rocker reinforcing as currently I can slide a large tube in there given it's accessible right now).
Would there be much benefit to the idea??
Being a T-top car I'll take any reinforcements. I have entertained the idea of a regular loop roll bar, triangulated with bars into the trunk. This could be an alternative or supplemental... I'd guess the roll bar loop setup would benefit from effectively have a whole length of tube running from its mounting points.
I'm thinking the benefits are that it restores any potentially lost integrity from some of the rust. It would also make any potential frame issues (rust) much easier to deal with, as it's just a skin at that point. Makes it feel like it would be more solid all around.
Thanks!
Picture 1: Frame rails as is
Picture 2: Where the tube would end into the reinforced section
Picture 3: Where the tube would end into the leaf spring housing (would notch the tube)
Picture 4: The reinforced section of the frame that Picture 2 would tie into. Could probably get about 2inches of weld without further cutting. That's something to consider too, there will be a limit on how much weld can be added.
If possible the reinforced section would be mid point, if possible and worth it to get a full length of tube through and to the torque box.
Alternatively, could use a separate piece for torque box up to rear of seat area where the reinforcement goes to. That would create a gap in the tubing, but it's much easier to do. But maybe not as strong. But maybe the extra strength from adding two sections, is already strong enough. Not as ideal as a full length though.
218415218416218417218418
Currently in the middle of restoration on a 78 T-top Firebird and figured now that the frame rail is exposed from cutting out the rusty area of floor, it seems an opportunity to add in a tube.
I wonder if this would make any difference?
A little more info:
Frame rails are solid, they had some rust on the inside, but as you can see it's mostly cleaned up and the outside of the rail for most parts still has factory paint. There's probably about 90% wall thickness remaining.
In getting this far, I realised the frame is reinforced internally at the large bend that goes down behind the passenger seat. My thinking is to connect tube between this reinforced section and the leaf spring bushing housing. You can see in the images some random tube I placed in for illustration.
It could be welded in a few sections along the length of the frame rail too.
Event better would be have a tube run from the leaf spring bushing housing, past the reinforced area and down to the torque box. Effectively tying in three points. I am replacing the torque boxes so that section is completely cut out. With the torque box connecting to the rockers, this would be a nice way to tie together the rear of the frame to the rocker (I'll start a new thread on rocker reinforcing as currently I can slide a large tube in there given it's accessible right now).
Would there be much benefit to the idea??
Being a T-top car I'll take any reinforcements. I have entertained the idea of a regular loop roll bar, triangulated with bars into the trunk. This could be an alternative or supplemental... I'd guess the roll bar loop setup would benefit from effectively have a whole length of tube running from its mounting points.
I'm thinking the benefits are that it restores any potentially lost integrity from some of the rust. It would also make any potential frame issues (rust) much easier to deal with, as it's just a skin at that point. Makes it feel like it would be more solid all around.
Thanks!
Picture 1: Frame rails as is
Picture 2: Where the tube would end into the reinforced section
Picture 3: Where the tube would end into the leaf spring housing (would notch the tube)
Picture 4: The reinforced section of the frame that Picture 2 would tie into. Could probably get about 2inches of weld without further cutting. That's something to consider too, there will be a limit on how much weld can be added.
If possible the reinforced section would be mid point, if possible and worth it to get a full length of tube through and to the torque box.
Alternatively, could use a separate piece for torque box up to rear of seat area where the reinforcement goes to. That would create a gap in the tubing, but it's much easier to do. But maybe not as strong. But maybe the extra strength from adding two sections, is already strong enough. Not as ideal as a full length though.
218415218416218417218418