Roached '72 Javelin Build for 24 Hours of Lemons!

[Bulletpruf]

So, I picked up a fugly - but solid - '72 Javelin roller (no engine/trans) a week ago. I wasn't in the market for another project, but I think it will make the perfect 24 Hours of Lemons project so I pulled the trigger. Anyway, it was originally a 304/automatic car. Other than the MIA drivetrain bits, it's reasonably complete.

It has power steering, power brakes (4 wheel drums) that will be upgraded to 4 wheel disk brakes.

The rear diff is an AMC 20, likely with 2.87 or 3.15 gears, and the dreaded two-piece axles. I've got some scar tissue with these; I drove a '79 CJ7 with a 360 and spun a few of these axles on a few spirited off-road excursions.

The body is remarkably solid; the fenders and quarters are damn near perfect. There's a bit of rust around the trunk lip and some spots in the floors that will need to be patched, but that's about it.

I've been stripping it down to get it ready to get a cage installed and I need to start thinking about a drivetrain, too. The easy button is to keep it AMC, so I'm inclined to pick up a complete AMC 360 (easy to find and inexpensive) and mate it to the close ratio T-10 that I was saving for my '71 Javelin.

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[Bulletpruf]

Disassembly is just about complete - interior is out except for the steering column, front crossmember is out (it was bent to he11), fuel tank is out, etc.

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Rear suspension won't need much at all besides new shocks and some leaf spring bushings, and front suspension should be about the same - once I replace the crossmember, it will need new shocks, bushings, ball joints, etc. I plan to box the lower control arms, but that's about all of the fab work needed.

[jaybee]

That's pretty crusty, but plenty there to make a fun Lemons car!

[Bulletpruf]

Picked up a set of polyurethane bushings for the car - supposed to have everything to do the front and rear suspension. They're black, so I'm hoping it won't be super obvious that they're not OEM stuff.

Picked up a used - but very nice - engine crossmember. It's the one in front. When you look at them at the right angle, you can see how bent the original one is.

Got the upper control arms and springs out today.

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[Bulletpruf]

Strut rods and swaybar are out. Removed ball joints from upper and lower control arms. Lower control arms are blasted and painted with weld-through primer; need to weld a plate on the bottom to box them. Wire wheeled, blasted, and painted the replacement engine crossmember.

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Spent a few hours this morning helping out my buddy Lee with his Lemons car. It's a Dodge Omni, but apparently these are based on the VW Rabbit/Golf platform. It has a 16V engine and it's apparently pretty quick.

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[Dave Pratt]

Oh hell ya! An old buddy of mine had one in high school back in the very early 80's that we use to roll in.Great memories.Have fun with the build...

[Bulletpruf]

Oh hell ya! An old buddy of mine had one in high school back in the very early 80's that we use to roll in.Great memories.Have fun with the build...

Ditto. A buddy of mine had one in high school in Slidell, LA, in the mid 1980's.

[Bulletpruf]

Trying to get some blasting/wire wheeling and painting done on suspension bits before I start work in the morning. Tedious work, but I hate putting rusty and grimy parts back on a car, and there's often damage hiding under the grease and grime.

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[carter_eng_fab]

I love the masking tape paint job on the Omni! And following along on the Javelin, such a neat car.

[Bulletpruf]

I love the masking tape paint job on the Omni! And following along on the Javelin, such a neat car.

Yeah, the masking tape "paint" is pretty cool.

Agree with you on the Javelin; once I saw it, I knew it was the perfect Lemons car.

Thanks

[Bulletpruf]

Getting tired of blasting and painting suspension bits, but I'm almost done. Goal for this weekend will be to get the front suspension back together or close to it.

Torn on whether I should cage it myself or take it to a shop in Houston that's done over 100 Lemons cars, but at this point, I'm leaning towards doing it myself. The shop in Houston wants $5k to do the cage, and I would probably have them patch the floor, mount the seats, handle the harnesses, etc, so I'm guessing it would be $6k or more to do all that. It's also 3 hours to Houston if you drive 75 and don't hit any traffic, so I'm thinking 9 hours total driving slow'ish + picking up and dropping off the trailer (30 minutes each way) loading and unloading the car, etc. Then the question is why should I spend $6,000 + 18 hours when I could do it myself for $1,000 (highly regarded kit from Rollcage Components)? And I'd have an excuse to buy more tools, too.

[Bulletpruf]

Good day yesterday.

First order of business was to install the freshly painted engine crossmember; this is the replacement for the one that was bent. Anyway, it wouldn't fit; the bolt holes were about 1/4" to 1/2" too far to the inside. Makes sense, because the old crossmember was badly bent, so the subframe must have moved a bit. A bit of persuasion with the porta-power got things back in the right spot and the crossmember fits just fine, now.

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Once the crossmember was in, I noticed that the inner tie rod was almost touching the crossmember. Looked at my '71 Javelin to see if it was supposed to be like that, and it's definitely not. Then I realized the drag link had been whacked, too, and it was bent. More used parts to source; these aren't reproduced.

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My buddy Scott got the fenders off, and as expected, the troughs under the fenders were completely full of acorns, dirt, varmint poop, etc. Got some video before we cleaned it up, but no pics.

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My buddy Lee stopped by and he started working on cleaning out the original gas tank and then did some disassembly on the 360 that I sourced for the car. 360 looks pretty nice so far, but we didn't yank the heads to check for a ridge yet.

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[Bulletpruf]

Today was interesting.

I went to a buddy's house to scrounge for AMC parts. He has a 40' x 80' shop that's full of 2 seater AMX's, several Machines, old race cars, etc. He gave me a center link to replace the one that was bent, and I told him that I was also looking for 4 speed pedals, clutch linkage, some clean lower control arms, and a T-10 shifter (the AMC T-10 shifter is different than the Chevy version and no longer available). He made a phone call and located everything that I was looking for, but I was waiting on pictures and prices.

In the meantime, I went back to the shop, and figured I might was well dig through the stuff that I have on the shelf for my '71 Javelin stalled road race project. I was working on it in earnest until we left for a tour in Korea (followed by Italy) in 2013, so I've kind of forgotten what I have for it. Anyway, after digging through some boxes, I found a set of 4 speed pedals, some clean lower control arms, a T-10 shifter, some custom upper control arms that I thought were missing in action. All of this stuff will be repurposed for the '72.

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[Bulletpruf]

Lots of progress on the Javelin since last update. We removed the door glass (have to remove it or keep it rolled down for racing) and quarter window glass and all the associated mechanisms and lost a fair bit of weight.


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Still piecing together the steering - tie rods, center link, idler, idler bracket, etc. It will all be new. Everything between the idler arm bracket (used) and steering box (used) will be new. Not all of this stuff is easy to find, but I think I have everything either on hand or on the way.

Decided to swap steering boxes from the '71, which had a manual steering box, to the '72, which had a power steering box. Not sure if it will be a good idea to run a manual box while racing, but we should be fine once we're moving, and I like the idea of losing some weight, complexity, and not having to worry about puking p/s fluid on the track from an overheated pump.

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Lower control arms are boxed, and roller bearings are going to replace the bushing where it bolts to the front crossmember. My buddy Lee is taking on that job because his welding and fab skills are better than mine.

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Upper control arm and spring are in on the passenger side. You can see the fabbed brake caliper bracket in the pic.

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[jaybee]

I know this doesn't apply to a Lemons application, but I have a question about the spherical inner control arm bearings. Can these be sealed adequately to use on the street without excessive wear?

[Bulletpruf]

I know this doesn't apply to a Lemons application, but I have a question about the spherical inner control arm bearings. Can these be sealed adequately to use on the street without excessive wear?

This is my first time using them, but I don't see why you couldn't use RTV or something similar to seal the open area on each side.

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Spent a bunch of time in the shop this weekend, but didn't make nearly as much progress on the car as I wanted to.

Spent Saturday morning helping my buddy Lee with his Plymouth Horizon Lemons car. They're fairly competitive in Class C and they have a 16V VW 4 banger under the hood.

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Had to disassemble a spare 302 for my '69 Bronco so I could harvest the crank, rods, and pistons, just in case I need them. Then we unloaded and I partially disassembled the spare 360 that my buddy picked up in Houston.

The spare 360 was supposed to rotate, but I wouldn't rotate for me. Pulled the heads off and there was light rust on the cylinder walls. I didn't pull the oil pan, but there's water in the oil or vice versa, so I'm guessing I just need to soak the cylinders in Marvel Mystery Oil to free things up.

From left to right below, the first one is the 360 that does turn over fine; was said to have been running, but burning oil. The good engine for the '69 Bronco is in the middle. On the right is the 360 that's currently stuck.

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The heads on the first 360 I bought are casting 502 - these are dogleg heads with bridged rockers and 60cc or so chambers.

The heads on the latest 360 I bought are casting 090 - dogleg heads, 60cc chambers, but not bridged rockers.

Both sets will work fine for a mild build.

[Bulletpruf]

Front suspension and brakes are together on the driver's side.

Wheel/tire combo won't work on this car but I knew that already. These are the 17 x 9 wheels with 275 40 series tires and they hit the coil spring mount. No big deal; these are from my '71, and that's getting coil-overs, so they'll work on it.

What should work - 17 x 8.5 or 17 x 9 with 4.5" backspacing and 255 or 265 series tires.

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[Bulletpruf]

All new steering bits are in. Everything is new except for the center link (NLA new) and the idler arm bracket (also NLA new).

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Did a minor disassemble and clean on the steering box, and threw on a new rag joint while I was at it. Special steer box lube should be here this week, along with the seals and a new gasket.

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Car was missing the passenger side lower fender brace so I sourced a used one. My buddy Will did some spot weld drilling, bodywork, and welding this weekend and now we're ready to wreck it and destroy all the nice work he did.

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[68Formula]

What's the benefit of the special power steering lube?

[Bulletpruf]

What's the benefit of the special power steering lube?

Well, it's actually a manual box, so these are typically packed with some sort of semi-liquid grease. I've seen recommendations to mix gear oil and grease, but there's no need to mix this stuff with anything.

[Bulletpruf]

Lots of progress this weekend.

New teammate has a bunch of AMC parts including a freshly machined 360 that he has agreed to assemble for the car. Won't be anything special -- dished pistons (9:1 or so), good dogleg heads (090's), mild flat tappet hydraulic cam. Only trick piece will be the oil pan - widened sump with trap doors to keep the oil near the pickup. He has an AMC-powered dragster that runs 7.90's in the quarter - it's an alcohol injected 401 based stroker. Anyway, I think he's the right guy to assemble the 360 for the car.

Got the front suspension assembled on the driver's side.

All the steering components are in place. All new except for the Pitman arm, steering box, and center link.

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Area around the trunk lip had some cancer, but nothing worth patching, so we wire wheeled it and hit it with POR-15. We hit it with a top coat after this pic was taken.

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Front windshield channel was the same - few spots of cancer, but nothing that needed patching so it got POR-15 as well.

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Dug out a dollop of Bondo in the A pillar on the passenger side and found some ugliness underneath. That's structural so it will get a patch.

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Wire wheeled the floors and didn't find any major surprises.

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[Bulletpruf]

First video is up - here's the link -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3JW4Z0J4Po&t=1s

[Bulletpruf]

Working on patching the floors. Fairly tedious work.

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More pics.

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[Bulletpruf]

Still need to screw the patches to the floors, do some final tweaking, plug weld, then weld the perimeter, then finish off with some seam sealer.

[Bulletpruf]

Got two floor pans in this weekend. Fairly time consuming, even when the pans fit fairly well.

The passenger rear took the full patch. It's all welded in, seam sealed, and painted.

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On the driver's front, we didn't use the entire patch. It also took a fair bit of work to get it to fit; there was a contour on the trans tunnel that wasn't matched in the patch so I had to form it.

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Also sourced a T10 transmission case to replace a busted one.

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Fenders are back on, too, along with the front valence. Beat dents out of all of them before reinstalling.

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[Bulletpruf]

Driver's side rear floor patch is in. Still need to grind down the welds a bit and paint it.

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The passenger front inner rocker is a bit Swiss-cheesy, so it needs a patch. I took the remnants of the driver's front floor patch panel (we only used about 2/3 of it) to make the inner rocker patch. It was flanged, bent, and ribbed, so it took a bit of work to get it flat. Once it was flat, I threw it on the 2' HF mini-brake. Worked fine. Still needs to be screwed down and welded but that'll have to wait until I get back from Montana in a week.

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[Bulletpruf]

Got back from vacation in Montana last night. Spent the day today on the road chasing parts. Drove 3+ hours to Houston to pick up a close ratio T10 trans; seller is an AMC guy who races Lemons, and he threw in a pair of 245/40/17 tires that still have a bit of life left.

From there, I drove 3+ hours to Pleasanton (south of San Antonio) to pick up a set of 17x8 Mustang wheels.

Then drove an hour to the shop to unload the stuff.

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[Bulletpruf]

Wilwood brake kit for the rear showed up; more good parts to put on a bad car...

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[Bulletpruf]

Work continues. We're making progress, but the fabrication and welding is a time suck, and we're only able to work on the car on the weekends. At least I had plenty of help; there were four of us in the shop on Saturday and three of us on Sunday.

Will and I played with fiberglass and resin; had to repair the big crack in the free spoiler that my buddy Andrew gave me. With some trimming and grinding and a coat of semi-gloss black, it'll be ready to go.

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Will got to use my Clecos and a rivet gun to attach patch that Scotty whipped up for the firewall.

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Lee welded the last floor pan patch in, along with the patch for the inner rocker on that side. Now he's working on getting the seat brackets mounted and harness mounts created and/or braced.

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[Bulletpruf]

More progress this weekend. Lee got the seat brackets welded into place. Still a bit of work left to do to finish them.

I got the subframe connector brackets welded to the floors.

I blasted the 17x8 Mustang wheels and painted them black.

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Decklid and spoiler are done. Took quite a bit of fiberglass mat/resin, and finished off with bondo. Spoiler and decklid were both black, but I stripped about 17 layers of paint off the decklid and got down to the original paint, which is a copper color, so not too far off the faded brown of the car. I hit the spoiler with some reddish brown primer, which isn't a 100% match the decklid or car, but if you're squinting at it from about 100' away, it'll be pretty close.

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Tires are on the way - Hankook RS-4 in 245/40/17.

[Bulletpruf]

More progress this weekend.

Got the wheels and tires on and looks like I'm tight on clearance on the front wheels. Had to use 1" spacers to keep the coil spring mount from rubbing the inside top of the sidewall. Not sure if I'm going to stick with these wheels or source some that have negative offset.

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Mounted the decklid with the rear spoiler as well. Looks a lot better; these cars look silly without a rear spoiler.

Sitting kind of high now, but there's no drivetrain, fuel, etc.

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Also painted some of the underside - floor patches were bare metal.

And then I did some precision bodywork... I'll finish up the patch tomorrow with some rivets and JB Weld.

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[Bulletpruf]

Bodywork is all done - pop rivets and JB Weld for the win!

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[Bulletpruf]

Front tow hook is done and bumper is now somewhat straighter (read: I beat it with a BFH until I got tired) and reinstalled.

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Two captive nuts for the driver's side bumper bracket bolts broke free inside the frame rail (well, it's a unibody, so maybe frame rail isn't the correct term), so I cut the bolt heads off with a Sawzall and then drilled through the frame so I could put a bolt on it. Metal was kind of thin in that area so I drilled two holes in some 1/4" flat bar and used that instead of some big washers.

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Started on the cage yesterday. My buddy Lee bent up some nice spreader plates and we got the boxes for the main hoop tacked into place.

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Then it was time for the rear tow hook. Pulled off the bumper and rear valence and found a good spot to mount it to the rear frame rail/unibody structure just behind the leaf spring shackle. Took my Speedway Engineering tow hook, sliced it and diced it and drilled a few holes in it so I could plug weld it and then welded it in place. Either my welding is getting better or I have more tolerance for sh*tty welding, because I didn't do much grinding when I was done. I still need to poke a hole in my rear valance for the tow hook to fit through and I need to paint it red, too.

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[Bulletpruf]

Main hoop and halo are tacked into place.

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[Bulletpruf]

Progress continues, but not at warp speed because of work and family obligations.

Dash bar is tacked into place. Diagonal needs final fitting.

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[Bulletpruf]

Diagonal finished, tacked into place, then I cut/ground the tack welds holding the cage to the boxes. Then cut/ground the tack welds holding the boxes to the floor, and dropped the cage down. Now we can get at spots on top of the cage that need welded.

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[Bulletpruf]

I was out of town last weekend, but managed to get back after it today. My buddy Lee fully the top of the cage, and then I painted most of it with roll cage paint. From there, we put the cage up on the boxes, and Lee welded the boxes to the floors, and then he welded the cage to the boxes. Took a bit of persuasion to get the cage back in place once the top was welded, but ratchet straps and a porta-power made quick work of that.


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[chunger]

Ditto. A buddy of mine had one in high school in Slidell, LA, in the mid 1980's.

Huh, small world. I was in high school in Slidell in the mid 80's. Can't recall the car, but it was a while ago...

[Bulletpruf]

Huh, small world. I was in high school in Slidell in the mid 80's. Can't recall the car, but it was a while ago...

No kidding? I'm PJP class of '86.

[Bulletpruf]

More progress.

Dash bar was crooked so I cut the tack welds on the passenger side, leveled it out, and re-welded.

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Working on getting the harness bar in place behind the driver's seat; still needs to come up a few inches.

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There needs to be 2" clearance from the top of the tallest driver's helmet to the top of the roll cage. I think we'll be fine, but it will be close.

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[Bulletpruf]

Went to MSR Houston for the Lemons race several weeks ago. I was on the crew for my buddy Lee's team, Event Horizon. Lee and his friends are former Top Fuel mechanics, engine builders, and fabricators, so the car is dialed in fairly well.

Our trusty steed is a 1980 Plymouth Horizon. The early Horizons came with VW drivetrains and that's what this has - a junkyard 16 valve VW engine and a 5 speed trans. Engine is a stocker, straight from a junkyard, but they're building a healthy 16V engine for it.

Car ran great all weekend. We were in first place most of Saturday, but Sunday we had issues with back end of the car wanting to switch places with the front end, alternator not charging sufficiently, so we had to pit for a tire change and a fresh battery. We ended up in second place in Class C to a very nice Subaru wagon that had been built by a high-end fab shop. Had we been in the faster Class B, we would have finished in second place there as well.

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[Bulletpruf]

I got tired of working on the cage, so I decided it was time to work on the engine. It's going to be a low-buck AMC 360 build.

The heads are 1970 model 291C; they are coveted because they have the good dogleg port exhaust and the small combustion chambers.

Once disassembled, they look good. Someone has rebuilt them at some point, because the valves have normal keepers (i.e., not 4 groove), and the valve job looks fresh. However, they're not completely flat; one is warped .0025" and the other is warped .004", which is the outer limit of tolerance of .001" per cylinder. The plan is to do a redneck surface in the shop.

I magnafluxed one head and dynafluxed the other one. No cracks found.

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[Bulletpruf]

And now I'm working on the short block. It's the one on the left in this picture and appears to be a stock 2bbl 360 out of a 1974 model full size Jeep. I think I paid $250 for it, complete with accessories, carburetor, and exhaust manifolds, which is a super deal, and it was allegedly running but it smoked.

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The heads that came off this engine are 502's that have the funky bridged rockers and they're really not great for a performance build. They're for sale locally for $100, but no takers yet.

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The short block appears to be original and unmolested, which is great. It has dished cast pistons, of course, but standard bore with almost zero ridge. A buddy who is a hardcore AMC guy claims the lack of a ridge is because AMC used high-nickel blocks. Not sure if that's why, but I was able to get the pistons out without using my ridge reamer tool.

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Once I got it disassembled, I took the bare block outside and spent an hour or two cleaning it with scrapers, wire wheels, and brake cleaner. Then I popped the core plugs out and hit the block with a pressure washer. Bores don't have any crosshatch, but they do look very nice. I also need to check the taper on the bores with a dial bore gauge and hit them with a 240 grit dingleball hone. The crank is std/std and just needs a little touchup with some 1,000 grit and a shoestring. The pistons will get cleaned up and will get some new rings. Still need to check the deck to see if it's warped and I need to magnaflux the block, too, but I'm not expecting any major surprises there. Also need to remove the oil galley plugs and clean the oil galleys. Need to knock out the cam bearings, too; they've seen better days.

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[Bulletpruf]

More progress on the cage.

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And more progress on the engine.

Block continues to impress me. Taper in the bores is only .0005" max and max out of round is only .001".

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Also installed the extra oil line in the valley; these engines need some help with the oiling system.

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[Bulletpruf]

Working on block prep today.

Started off by magnafluxing it. No cracks.

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Then I spent a few minutes deburring it. Nothing elaborate; just removing sharp edges here and there.

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Then I honed the cylinders with a 240 grit ball hone on my drill. Used honing oil, went 50 strokes per cylinder and about 2 strokes per second.

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Left a nice crosshatch. That's just oil and debris left in the cylinder; I hadn't cleaned it out all the way yet.

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Then I cleaned out every single threaded hole in the block with the appropriate size brass bore brush and brake cleaner.

Next step was to clean the decks up a bit. They're very straight, but smooth in places and I wanted to give the surface something for the gasket to adhere to. Used a 9 x 12 x 2 granite surface block with a sheet of 80 grit attached.

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When all that was done, I cleaned and bagged the block. Tomorrow I need to reinstall galley plugs, install brass core plugs, install cam bearings, and see if I can get the crank cleaned up a bit some some shoestring and 1,000 grit paper.

[Bulletpruf]

Freeze plugs are in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG2D1vppVy0&t=2s

Found a divot in my crank that won't clean up at .040" so I harvested the crank from my spare 360.

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It was stuck, of course, and I broke off the crank bolt in the crank trying to turn it over. It was fun getting that out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8X_hA9hJCY&t=16s

[Bulletpruf]

Cam bearings are in. Video link below in case anyone is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfzuXIGBQ2w

[Bulletpruf]

Crank from the spare 360 cleaned up at .010" / .010".

The machine shop didn't touch up the chamfers in the crank so I did it myself.

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And just to make sure I didn't have any rough edges, I hit all the journals with some shoestring powered 1,000 grit wet/dry.

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Crank is in; all main bearings are at .002".

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Endplay is just a tad tight at .002". Should be .003" - .008" but I'm not going to lose sleep over a thousandth.

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Using Hasting rings; the gaps on the second rings were all at .018" so I filed them until I got .022" - .023." Top rings were all at .018" so I left them as-is.

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Some of the rods and pistons are in; rod bearings are at .015."

Had hoped to install the cam before the crank and rods, but the CNC cam grinder at Bullet Cams was down for maintenance, so it's still a few weeks out.

[Bulletpruf]

Got the good T10 close ratio trans torn down, cleaned, and halfway done with reassembly.

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Got the not-so-good T10 close ratio trans torn down and inspected. Might end up being a parts trans; a few of the gears are hammered, and not sure I'll be able to find replacements.

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I need to pull my other T10 off the shelf and remind myself exactly what it is. If it's a close ratio and it looks good inside, I need to resist the urge to rebuild it and just keep it as the backup trans.

[Bulletpruf]

One close ratio trans is rebuilt. One more to go.

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[Bulletpruf]

Second close ratio T-10 is done.

Heads are back from the machine shop, but there was an issue with valve stem tip to valve lock clearance. It was only about .020" and that's not enough. I ended up ordering some .050" offset locks to bring the retainer down and now I have .070" clearance, which is fine.

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Cam showed up last week, so I got it installed, along with the Rollmaster timing chain.

Heads went on and I torqued them to 110 ft/lbs. Started out at 30 ft/lbs and went in 15 lb increments.

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Decided to splurge on an aftermarket Bulltear timing cover and oil pump; hopefully that will arrive this week and I can get it on this weekend.

I also need to splurge on an oil pan; likely going with Aviaid, assuming the lead time isn't too long. If it is, I'll go with another Armando pan; that's what I have on my 401 for my '71.

I'm running custom Smith Brothers pushrods with the restricted orifice; I got impatient and ordered these weeks ago (i.e., before I mocked anything up). If they're the wrong size, I'll get another set ordered.