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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2024
      Location
      Ohio, USA
      Posts
      4
      Country Flag: United States

      Why did my new suspension lower my Cutlass?

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      I have a 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass S that over the last few weeks, I replaced the front suspension and now the front end sits significantly lower, and I cannot for the life of me understand why. Top is before, bottom is after. I re-used the stock lower control arms, but installed new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and ProForged ball joints. I re-used the stock spindles. I even re-used the EXACT same coil springs (I just sanded off the surface rust and painted them). I used Summit Racing tubular upper control arms and ProForged 1/2” tall upper ball joints. I installed a UMI bump steer kit too. QA1 Stocker Star single adjustable shocks were installed. Lastly, I put in the CPP high clearance 1-1/4” sway bar and UMI frame brace kit. The tires are 285/40R18 front and rear on 18x9.5 wheels with 5.75” backspacing (I did not change anything with the wheels or tires). The only other changes from the before (top) to after (bottom) photos is I took out a heavy subwoofer box that held two 12’s. Please explain to me how the front end dropped over an inch, even though I’m using the SAME springs and LCAs? Others on FB said it’s because I installed the tubular UCAs, but I don’t see how they or the tall ball joints can affect ride height.

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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Location
      Oregon coast
      Posts
      255
      Country Flag: United States
      Could be one of two things. The springs could be clocked differently, or when they were installed the first time they were partially sitting on the lip inside the spring pocket that locates the spring. When I was swapping springs they go caught on that lip and it made about 1/2” of difference.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,127
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by boss_hoss View Post
      Could be one of two things. The springs could be clocked differently, or when they were installed the first time they were partially sitting on the lip inside the spring pocket that locates the spring. When I was swapping springs they go caught on that lip and it made about 1/2” of difference.
      This sounds like a very plausible explanation.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
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      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      39
      Country Flag: United States
      I was under the understanding that taller lower ball joints lower the ride height. The way I think of it, let's say the lower control arm is in the exact same position as before, but the taller lower ball joint has now raised the spindle pin higher than it would have been with the original length ball joint. But I'm no expert.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2024
      Location
      Ohio, USA
      Posts
      4
      Country Flag: United States
      Thank you Boss Hoss, I never considered that. I did make sure the spring was clocked right when I installed it, but I never looked at where they were when I removed them.

      2ABodies - a few others said they thought it was the tubular uppers, but I still don’t see how. The upper ball joint is the tall one. The extra 1/2” space is between the spindle and the ball joint, which raises the outer end of the UCA up. Since the spring goes between the pocket in the LCA and the frame, I just don’t see how it could change ride height. I could be wrong, but I’d love to hear someone’s explanation. I think the above explanation of the spring clocking being off before I took it apart makes sense.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,869
      Country Flag: United States
      The old rubber control arm bushings can hold the car a little higher because they are in bind by design. Especially if the upper control arms were tightened with the wheels off the ground and not at ride height. The new ones have bushings that freely rotate so they have no effect on ride height.
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2002
      Location
      Crockett, Texas
      Posts
      568
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you driven the car yet with this configuration?
      Don 67 Camaro RS/SS Texas

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      274
      Country Flag: United States
      dhutton has a very good point. The factory assembly manual says to torque the control arm bushings with the full weight of the car on the suspension. Most DIY mechanics don't know to do this and torque the control arm bolts while the car is on jack stands with the suspension at full droop. It could be the previous parts where assembled incorrectly binding the rubber bushings and creating additional lift. The spring clocking suggestion is also spot on. Years ago I had the reverse situation, my suspension was higher after the rebuild, because springs were not clocked in the lower control arms properly. I was able to get back to the correct ride height once I rotated the springs to the correct position.

      Rodney
      Rodney Meyers
      72 Olds 442 Rest-mod clone

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2024
      Location
      Ohio, USA
      Posts
      4
      Country Flag: United States
      I think you’re right! I definitely remember trying to articulate the upper arms after removing the spindles. I remember that they were all the way down in their relaxed position, and I was surprised how difficult they were to move up. I wasn’t able to move the UCA with one hand. Thank you! I went back to see the video and they’re all the way down unloaded.




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