'67 Corvette Coupe build thread, Hereford AZ

[Vjjack03]

I started this car back in 2016 and even posted a short note in the introduction area of the forum, but never any details. However, I decided to go back and re-create a build thread to capture some key points and then pick up from here as I finalize the project (based on inspiration from a couple other guys' C2 projects). I live in Hereford AZ. Bought the car stock and started working on it in right away. I had the car painted and had decided to simply hot rod it with existing frame. Through a series of "issues" and frustrations, I changed focus and determined that I would rather go with a custom frame and some other modifications. Also, the initial paint work I initially had was sub-standard. So, some costly and painful problems led me to making it a "RestoMod" with a "Pro-Touring" theme. In this thread I will capture as much as I can, and provide details. Even though I lost a bunch of pictures along the way (laptop gone bad), I will show as much as I can.
Some details about the car. It is a 1967 Corvette Coupe that was originally a 350HP 327 with AC. It was yellow from the factory. My modifications, which were (all but paint) done by me in my garage shop are:
-SRIII frame with C6 Corvette Suspension
-ZL1 Camaro rear end, 3:73 gears
-Viking Coil overs
-GM Performance 376/480
-TREMEC TKO 600
-ABS Electric Brake Booster
-2013 Z06 Brakes
-Vintage AC
-Dewitts LS radiator
-Some other stuff
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Car as purchased.
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Original engine.
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SRIII frame, initial construction.
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SRIII frame final with suspension, tank and lines.
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Body with initial paint job....looks good in pictures, but had issues in person. Decided to go ahead with re-build and fix paint later.
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Frame at home in garage.
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Shot of front suspension area, C6 A-arms.
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How I put the body on the frame using my 4-post lift.
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Body on frame.

[FLYNAVY53]

Excited for the updates....I enjoy seeing the variances in how different people modify these cars. I thought long and hard about the SRIII frame but always planned on keeping the small wheel and tire package for that vintage race look on my car and decided that sinking all that money into a nice frame with C6 suspension would be a waste if I wasn't running adequate rubber.

[Vjjack03]

FlyNavy,
Thanks. I started this thread because I had been thinking about it and at your prompting. I was editing while you sent your reply. So go back and take a look if you would like. I will add more over the next few days until I get to where I am now. I did loose a lot of photos of the process.

[Vjjack03]

Here are some more progress pictures:
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Cut the entire rear area out to add the wider wheel wells. I did something I haven't seen anyone else do. I welded in a metal sub-structure out of 1/2 square tube, under the fiberglass for a little extra assurance. It turned out very good.
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Fiberglass panels all glued in. I used SEM panel Bond adhesive.
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Here's the underside, you can see the metal sub-structure. I used Rapter liner under the car and inside the car at the back (prior to Dynamat).
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Inside the car final with Raptor Liner.

[Vjjack03]

Some more old progress pictures:
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Shot under hood showing frame.
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Interior wiring...used American Autowire modified series wire kit. I highly recommend it.
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American Autowire fuse box and bulkhead.
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Classic Instruments Auto-cross gauge cluster. Never going to do 200 mph or rev to 10k, but like the thought of it.
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And here's where the LS ECM is located.

[Vjjack03]

I also wanted the retro wheel and tire package look, but opted for a lot of tire and wheel and each corner. I now have 2013 Grand Sport wheels with Michellen Pilot Sports. 18x265 up front and 19x325 at back. If I can afford it, I will put a Schott retro looking wheel on it and end state.

[FLYNAVY53]

I was gonna say, those Grand Sport wheels actually look really good on the car, something I would not have anticipated. Those Schotts would look sweet though! Due to the uncertainty as to future availability of the Avon CR6ZZ, I may step up to a 17 eventually, but would keep them at 7 inches and 225/55/17 all the way around.

[67rox]

Wow gorgeous frame and build. What type of body mount bushings did you use?

[Vjjack03]

Pretty sure I used these...in black.
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.4102?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhfipBhCqARIsAH9msbmITRSgqTe00 6azw6gxdEYPIigAIRpphzkmSnuQZOGAfiB7DG_cOJcaAvoCEAL w_wcB

[Vjjack03]

More pictures of the frame.
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Sides of the frame rails (rocker area) are triangulated tube. Front rack is "Flaming River" "Road race rack"...rear end is ZL1 Camaro.

[67rox]

Stunning that frame and its set up is the nicest I have seen in a longtime.

[Vjjack03]

Mike at SRIII has been building these for years. He can do a C4 or C6/7 suspension. C4 would be to avoid cutting the fender wells. But its really a pretty straight forward process. I used a lot of SMC panel adhesive and the two part adhesive gun. That stuff is no joke and won't separate. I know Roadster Shops makes a good chassis, but I believe the heavy wall triangulated tube on rockers and then other supports gussets and reinforcements make this frame very strong. Mikes been building cars for years and SRIII corvette chassis for more than 10+. He will have it TIG welded for a price (mind is MIG). Anyway, the chassis is very ridged and I found zero problems with it. The only issue is the outwardly hub centric C6 hubs don't allow for any dish or "lip" on the rims. I currently have 18" x 19" C6 GS rims. I am eventually going to go with ones like the Schott wheels and probably change to 18" on the rear and try a 40 series back there to get some more sidewall look.

[Vjjack03]

Here are some more pictures of progress (belated):
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Engine bay before LS. Satin rattle can black (Dupli color low gloss black engine paint). To the right you can see the ABC electric brake master. (there motor is below, inside fender) The system builds booster pressure via an electric motor and reservoir. It works great and brakes and good as my wife's 2020 X5.
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376/480 GM crate motor. Has the GM hot cam. It is actually rated around 495HP and with headers and tune more like a little over 500.

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Motor as it came (except did have box around top).
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In car with Holley mid-mount front runner.
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This picture is of the electric brake booster motor and wiring...off to the right you can see my Bowler clutch master mount that is on the frame to avoid flex on the fiberglass fire wall (when using hydraulic clutch). A person could use a manual clutch or reinforce the firewall....
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Bowler set up by itself, when installed. (sorry picture is side ways)
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Just a picture of the motor in and steering column to rack tube with joint. I actually trimmed the firewall pass through some to straighten the steering wheel away from the factory off-set. If you sit in one of these cars with the steering wheel directly in front of you, you'll see that the wheel is a little canted (to right). I didn't like that so I modified the pass through bracket and squared the wheel with the driver (if someone is interested I can post picture and some info on what changed).

[FLYNAVY53]

would you post the info on squaring the steering wheel? I'm messing with that right now as I design seat brackets for my car. I noticed that as it sits, the steering wheel centerline is 3/4" off from the centerline of the seat mounting holes in the floor. So before I offset my seats 3/4 of an inch towards the centerline, Id like to make sure the steering column is square. I'm also going to be going to a custom length column from Ididit for a number of reasons.

[Vjjack03]

FlyNavy,
I don't have some of my initial info on what I did to center the wheel, but I think I can explain it and I have some simple grahics that might help. The goal is to square the steering wheel to the driver, if possible. I am not sure if you can do it without aftermarket rack and pinion though (maybe the angle is the way it is because of the factory steering geometry). Anyway, I corrected the issue by moving the hole and mounting plate where the column goes through the firewall over to the right (from driver's view) by 3/4". Where the column bolts under the dash remains the same as factory, so the movement to the right at the firewall actually shifts the wheel inward to driver on right (looking at the wheel)....hard to describe but I think my simple graphics can explain. You will have to elongate the firewall hole, and cut and reweld the support plate to move the center mount area over 3/4" (and I suggest using a 67 support plate). So see the attachments and let me know how confusing it is....
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Factory 1967 firewall column support.

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My attempt to explain how I modified the support to use existing holes but shift the center of the support over so it will align the steering wheel flush to driver.
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Simple graphic about to show intent.
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Best picture I have of the final. I sprayed wrinkle type paint on the modified support.

[FLYNAVY53]

that's extremely helpful, thanks!!

[Vjjack03]

It you start with the column bolted loosely at the dash and eyeball the angle, then you'll know if only moving it 3/4" will work. So widening the hole to the left (from drivers seat) should start you towards squaring the steering wheel to the driver. Using the larger steering column support and modifying it was how I did it. But you could make a new metal part and weld just weld the center to it (or they have some aftermarket ones). Moving it over though, you obviously will have to ensure your steering shaft angle still works right and isn't impeded. With my Flaming River Rack and their column it worked out.

Also in the interior part of the firewall, I cut some fiberglass panel I had to cover the hole I enlarged and glued it in with SMC panel bond (you need the two part adhesive applicator gun for that). Then I covered the repair from the inside with Dynamat. It will have carpet over it at end state anyway. Buy the way, once you have the steering wheel square as you sit, it will just feel better. Lastly, I think Flaming River sent me a plastic dash column support, the part you see just at the bottom of the column. I decided not to use it. I wanted to re-use the factory metal on instead, so I went to Ace and got some large O-rings, found two that would fit around the column and squeeze into the factory support. It worked good. Filled up the gap and allowed me to use that factory piece. If you do do this, (move the column and put in new a new one), I would be interested to see how you personally do it.

[FLYNAVY53]

Thanks very much...this all tracks with my experience. When I drove my car cross-country, I found that I was never entirely comfortable, and felt like I was slouching towards the center of the car. This would explain that.

This will also fix the steering shaft alignment issue I currently have with my Borgeson steering box. At the moment, the factory steering shaft doesnt have the bottom bearing installed so that the end of the shaft had adequate side to side play to mate with the box. This was always intended as a temporary solution until I could come up with a permanent fix...which you have now provided.

[Vjjack03]

Here's the Flaming River Steering Column...as you can see this was for a 67 with the crush zone shaft. I think you can get GM columns in different lengths which also might help with steering angles. A note, if you don't like the billet aluminum tilt and signal stalks, use your factory ones....I did and I think the factory stuff looks better than the dated billet stuff. Also, the plastic part I mentioned is just under the enlarged part of the column by where the wires exit...it comes plastic but you can use the original metal part if you'd rather, but it requires some work. You'll see when you get to that point.

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[67rox]

Sweet Build

[FLYNAVY53]

perfect, thanks. I'm planning to go with a custom length Ididit column. The plan is for the column to extend only as far as the end of the column support. That will provide the most real estate to use two u-joints and a very short shaft between the column and the steering box.

[Vjjack03]

So, here's some photos of the exhaust. I had a local TIG welder/fabricator make the headers and exhaust system. He started with a flange with 1 7/8 ports and did the whole thing in stainless. Made a cone like front area from 2 3/4" to 3" to resemble race car exhaust from the 60s. It has a baffle in the exhaust to quiet it some, but still pretty loud. It will also burn your legs....210220
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[FLYNAVY53]

thats one of the best LS swap side exhaust systems I've seen. well done!

[67rox]

Really nice exhaust! I keep forgetting to ask you do you think your LS with a traditional 4150 intake with throttle body like the set up Edelbrock has with the Pro Flow 4 fit underneath a small block hood?

[Vjjack03]

67Rox,
Hmmm, that's something I cannot answer. I do not know if it will fit. As you know the only thing you can do is get the height measurements and see how that stacks up against the stock stuff. You could ask that question in the C2 section of Corvette Forum and someone might know....

[Vjjack03]

I wanted to add something regarding the seats I put in the car. These are Recaro E21 like seats; I did a lot of research in effort to find the right sears. FlyNavy, I think I even got some thoughts from your thread on this. I considered a lot of options, but kept thinking how much I like the seats in 80's BMWs back when I was in German, specifically Nurenburg back in 85-88 (Army). I remember how different they felt compared to American cars of the era, and how unique I thought they would be in a C2. So, after researching, I found a fellow in Germany (German Ebay) who pulls them out of salvaged cars and reupholsters them. It was easy to make them fit in my C2, just used a 1/2" by 1" rectangular bar and adapted them to the factory seat rails. Due the construction of the Recaros, they actually hold you in and even sit you a good 2" lower in the seated position. If you were to get them relatively new in the US, I think they would be Recaro LS/LX seats.
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Seats as the came shipped from Germany. The fellow reupholsters them. Thread was white, so I died it black, but it keeps fading some. I will die it again (with marker) another time, later. I was going to change the diamond pattern but ended up liking it. I want to add the pattern to the door panels just to make the interior a little custom. By the way, if these fit in a C2, they would likely fit into other old cars....Camaros, Chevelles, etc...
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Picture of the simple rectangular bar I used to adapt seats to factory seat rails.
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More seat set up pictures.
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Same here.
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I did weld (plug weld) a small plate on top of the factory seat rail mounts because the holes were "wallowed out". From the top it looks better (not shown).
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Seat before I used die marker to change the thread from light color to black. The die marker pen works, but it requires a few applications. As a matter of fact, I still need to do it one more time before it will be dark enough. I will finish the interior soon, and re-die it then.
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Seats in car.
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Another angle.

[FLYNAVY53]

Yea, I LOVE those seats in your car. I contacted the same guy in Germany, but at the time, he didnt have anything in stock or on the horizon. I ended up going with the Cobra Stuttgart seats, which are a close knockoff. They were very high quality but I found after my cross country drive, they weren't supportive enough for me in the thigh area....mostly because my legs are so long with the seats mounted directly to the floor. I had them reupholstered and they're now in my 80-series and they're great because of the more upright seating position. I've got a set of carbon Tillett B8 seats that will be going in my Corvette once I finish up the transmission.

[Vjjack03]

A couple more belated progress pictures.
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Here's how the the "drive by wire" pedal was mounted. I had to make a fiberglass flat area and use a piece of metal to get the thing in the right position.
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Another picture.
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Transmission, TKO600
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Tunnel insulation.
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Shifter with boot.
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Had to have a special CV joint on both ends of drive shaft, due to bad drive shaft angle. Dual CV Joints eliminate chance of vibration. Its not for everyone but due to the differential placement, this was a good solution. Rear end if from a modern ZL1 Camaro. Its gigantic.
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Very small drive shaft but vendor says good for 1000 hp. You can see the funky spacer on the rear-end side. It all looks different but works very well.

[Vjjack03]

Here are a couple of the front spoiler/air dam I made from a 68-69 Camaro front spoiler.
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Wrapped it with 3M carbon fiber wrap...looked pretty good. However, I have since had it "body worked" and painted satin black.
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Cut and glued together seams (my adhesive of choice is the 2 part SMC Panel Bond)
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I used flat already made fiberglass from the rear floor I cut out (modifying fender wells) as a backer behind the ABS like plastic spoiler for stiffness.
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My attempt to explain what I did.

[FLYNAVY53]

Love the spoiler. I kicked around the same idea a while ago and settled on the Dynamic Corvettes front spoiler, though it's been sitting in my parts pile for over 2 years now. Mostly because I cant settle on whether I'm going to keep the bumpers on the car or not, and that will impact whether the spoiler needs to be modified or not to be mounted.

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[Vjjack03]

FlyNavy, I like the Dynamic Corvettes' front spoiler. It would be a good choice. I have though about getting a mold made of mine....or making one myself. If I did that, it would be interesting to see if other folks would want it. Even some of the purist types seem to like them. I had my front bumper holes filled, so no front bumpers for now...maybe that will change later. I did have my rear bumpers chromed recently. Picked them up last week. $450 each.

[Vjjack03]

Now getting this up to date...the car is in final "paint fix" now. Well, actually the paint is mostly fixed, so its going for final interior. I need a custom carpet for the back where I put in the wider fender wells, so it will be in interior next week. Here's some pictures of the paint though...
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[Vjjack03]

Ok, really the situation as the car sits right now....having the fabricator/TIG welder put in a removable roll/safety (seat belt harness) bar....our own idea using connector bungs like that on off road cars.
I will post pictures of the final next week.

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[NASTY-LSX]

Wow, talk about nasty, its amazing!! I love the seats.

[67rox]

Super cool build do you have any pics of the mounting locations for the roll bar? Seats are perfect I really want to copy those.

[Vjjack03]

67Rox, The roll bar is from Rhoads Race cars, it was made to fit a stock frame, but modified to fit my custom SRIII frame (c6 suspension). We also used off road connectors to make it partly removable.
The seats are awesome for a "Pro Touring car. Simple adjustable and very snug. They are Recaro seats similiar to the kind in late 70s or early 80s BMWs. You can find very similar ones on the internet for sell, Recaro LSX seats....new vesions could be Recaro Specialists. They are great but not cheap.
I will post pictures of the final roll bar soon.

[Vjjack03]

Final Roll Bar...well almost...before I filled in with fiberglass. which I don't have pictures of. Took car today to upholster-er....should come back nearly ready to drive....Its main hoop top and down bars are removable....just 'cause. Main reason for roll bar was/is to hold 5 point harnesses...
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[FLYNAVY53]

looks great! I assume with the modern seats with headrests and the aft leaning hoop, theres enough clearance/protection to not worry about bouncing your head off the hoop in an accident?

[Vjjack03]

FlyNavy....my redneck calculations indicate the roll bar and seat belt harness will not interfere with the seat and "head rests" at all...so we'll see. Intent is to be able to wear a helmet too.. Once the interior is in, I will post pictures with the seats.

[FLYNAVY53]

cool!

[Vjjack03]

A few more things related to the timeline of getting this junk together.210530
Put a small door in the back for access to fuel pump and sender, if required later.
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Another angle.
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Detroit Speed Wiper Motor installed.
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This might be interesting to some...and I could have detailed it better. Using the Holley coil covering valve covers. I had to make 8 small adapters to get the coils in the proper positions for the spark plug wires to come out of the center of the holes. This was to be able to use the coils that came from GM Performance. If you use MSD you won't have to do this...or and older version of GM's coils. Anyway, making these little adapter is what worked for me.
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Another picture of the same.
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Final valve covers.

[FLYNAVY53]

I love how much the Detroit Speed wiper motor cleans up the firewall. I'm planning on using that, and their headlight motors when I eventually rewire my car

[Vjjack03]

You know regarding the wiper motor, some folks put a panel over it, but I think the smaller motor is clean and functional just like it is.
I have the headlight motors in too. All of it is pretty good. I don't what what harness you are planning, but American Autowire makes a great harness. Mine is their Update Series which includes modern fuses and more circuits for added things like electric fuel pump, fan, LS interface. I had never completely wired a car and I thought is was very good.

[FLYNAVY53]

I agree....never been a fan of beauty covers. I prefer cleanly mounted/wired and accessible. Ive used both Painless and American Auto Wire before. For this build, I'm contemplating using a solid state Power Distribution Module either from Hardwired Electronics or ECU masters and building my own harness from scratch...we'll see.

[Vjjack03]

Interior put in this week by local upholster in Chandler Arizona. Jeremy J.

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[FLYNAVY53]

very clean!