Help: 60-0

[Yenko boy]

Here's my situation Im looking for a brake kit that will get my 60-0 down below 100ft. I have 17inch rims on all four corners so alot of the bigger brake kits are out of my reach. I will road race and auto-x but only minimally I will be doing more high speed competitions then anything else. I have bought a new baer track kit F&R only to find out it wont get me to my goal so there forsale now. I talked to a guy from red devil brakes and he could easily meet my goals only for a 8,040 dollar price tag. There rotors are made from titanium if your wondering about the steep price. So I was thinking about a custom kit but dont know where to start caliper ect. So I need help.

[Damn True]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/01/Anchor-1.jpg

:lmao:

[MoeBawlz]

Keep in mind that the brakes dont stop the car... the tires do... if your brakes are locking up the tires before you come to a complete stop, then not even $15k in brakes will stop you in 100 ft.

But you could figure all this out pretty much mathmatically if you want to take the time to do so. Rather than buying a kit and hoping it does what you want. You may want to ask some people if they have done any 60-0 tests on their cars and what brakes they have on them to do so.

Another thing to consider, the brake pads are what creates the friction to stop your car. you can have KILLER pads and stop on a dime, BUT all that heat may create fade in your braking system.

What im saying is you may be able to find a cheaper kit with a good pad set thatll do the trick for you rather than $8k in brakes.

[LTorres]

Posting what type of car this is might help.....I will gladly post what we would charge for custom work to get the job done!

[Yenko boy]

Sry I have a 69 camaro.

[LTorres]

Keep in mind that the brakes dont stop the car... the tires do... if your brakes are locking up the tires before you come to a complete stop, then not even $15k in brakes will stop you in 100 ft.

But you could figure all this out pretty much mathmatically if you want to take the time to do so. Rather than buying a kit and hoping it does what you want. You may want to ask some people if they have done any 60-0 tests on their cars and what brakes they have on them to do so.

Another thing to consider, the brake pads are what creates the friction to stop your car. you can have KILLER pads and stop on a dime, BUT all that heat may create fade in your braking system.

What im saying is you may be able to find a cheaper kit with a good pad set thatll do the trick for you rather than $8k in brakes.

As much as it pains me to say I agree with MoeBawlz here. Here is a perfect example. We just took on the entire SCCA ASedan class of cars to build a kit that will manage the heat better on the 1LE spindles that they were previously running turned down Vette rotors, Baer hubs and PBR calipers.

They trialed these 2 calipers in Omaha, Nebraska just last weekend at the Motorplex. They ran our recommended Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite with 1.62" pistons and trialed the Billet Superlite 4 which carries staggered 1.88" and 1.75" pistons......a huge difference in clamping force and front brake bias between the two.

2 major factors dictated the results they experienced. First it was below 40 degrees the day they tested (which did not give them the "hot" sticky tires they are used to mid season), second because this class of racers is restricted to 16" by 8" wide wheels the BSL4 was entirely to much braking, no modulation......basically the brakes were either on or off!!! They could lock them up and skid for a mile....not to mention they were running Wilwood "H" compound pads. If they could actually run a wider tire contact patch....no problem. Just be sure when your searching for brakes that the tire's do the stopping!! I could provide you with the biggest most impressive kit for the first Gen to fit your 17's but without decent Co-efficient of friction at the tire contact point your fighting a losing battle.

I can and will however produce pricing for pretty much any dimension of caliper, rotor and pad combination that you want(between my parts and/or Wilwood parts). But when I go to hit the numbers and show results, expect that tires, bias, COG and vehicle weight all play a major role. Knowing what your intentions for rear brakes would also be helpful.

[Damn True]

Hey, let me just say that I am impressed with Laramie. There are damn few vendors who will take the time to ask specific details about an application and most importantly the customers intended use for the car. It would be really easy for him to have replied: "You need [insert most expesive stuff I have here], it's the best system on the market."

But he didn't which leaves the door open to the possibility that the stuff he has may not be the right stuff for what Yenkoboy needs. I respect that, a lot.

Props.

[MoeBawlz]

Absolutely, thats defiantely rare in vendors in most cases, however I seem to see more of that type of behavior here on PT.com which is great. It also goes a long way in showing that you really do know what your talking about and that you really are there to help the individual not your pocket. Which im sure your also looking to do that or else you woudlnt be in buisness for it, but you take care of the customers actual needs which is definately commendable.

[Rick Dorion]

Any tire recommendations for maximum braking?

[LTorres]

Any tire recommendations for maximum braking?

What are we starting from, in other words what do you have to begin with for tire size? I can help by showing plus size dimensions: overall tire and wheel height and section width. I could throw a few out in the 17" diameter but would rather see what we are working from.

Overall diameter will ensure fitment. Section width will determine aspect ratio and improved tire contact patch on the road. With this information calculations can be done here to determine percentage of improvement concerning co-efficient of friction at tire/road contact point.

[Rick Dorion]

There you go being logical! I have 245/50-16's (front) and 255/50-16's (rear). My current braking is the C4 13" setup in the front with hydroboost (using Hawk HP plus pads) and stock drums in the rear. Rims are Vintage Wheel Works 16x8.

[68BNUT]

Dont let me side track anyone but I have Wilwood dynalites on the front of my 68 camaro and they have started squeeking bad when I apply the brakes! I would like to get new pads for them maybe something a little more agressive then what they send you.

Can someone point me in the right direction?
THanks

[MoeBawlz]

well Wilwood has several different pad compounds they make for their brake calipers. They have charts showing the friction coefficient of their pads on their site as well as a catalog showing what pads are availible for what type of caliper. You may want to check there first. but there is also probably other companies that make pads to fit wilwood calipers but youd have to shop around and ask around about friction coefficients.

[LTorres]

Dont let me side track anyone but I have Wilwood dynalites on the front of my 68 camaro and they have started squeeking bad when I apply the brakes! I would like to get new pads for them maybe something a little more agressive then what they send you.

Can someone point me in the right direction?
THanks

When we have complaints in the Wilwood Polymatrix pad line up we offer our customers a choice in Hawk HPS (for street use) or Porterfields Carbon-Kevlar pads for Wilwoods caliper line-up.

The Carbon-Kevlar pads are most noted for their extremely low dust, competitive price, low noise to NO noise, and range of Cf (coefficient of friction) under a large heat range.

BTW most employee's here run the Porterfield Carbon-Kevlar pads (R4S compound). They would run you $75.48 for your Dynalite's through us. You can learn more about Porterfield pads here:

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html

[68BNUT]

I will be pm'ing you in the near future, thanks for the info Ltorres.