Fitting the oil pan in a 64-67 GM A-body

[GTO Jack]

Well its winter so back at it. I am trying to figure out where the engine should sit. Anyone with a 64-67 GM A-body using the Holly stuff, can you tell me where this point of the oil pan I have circled sets in relation to the frame. Or any other measurement front to back I can use to verify if I need to go forward or back. With the frame mounts set in the back position [engine closer to firewall] this corner of the pan is almost touching the frame. With the flex of the mounts it could touch. Its only a issue on the passenger side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

[Hotwire]

What Holley pan is that?

What mounts are you running?

While doing mock up you need to have the weight of the car on the a-arms or as near to it as possible. If you have the jackstands back at the door hinges you will be getting inaccurate data as the frame flexes like crazy.

[GTO Jack]

What Holley pan is that?

What mounts are you running?

While doing mock up you need to have the weight of the car on the a-arms or as near to it as possible. If you have the jackstands back at the door hinges you will be getting inaccurate data as the frame flexes like crazy.

I have the frame resting on 4 jack stands all under the completed suspension. The pan is a 302-2. The frame mounts are mounted in the back position but I would like to move forward 1 inch to aid in fitting a large L680 trans. The engine mounts are a newer UMI product, I will post pic's. I noted that I started with the GM muscle car pan. Yes I know they hang low. With that pan and the mounts 1in forward it fit, the indentation in the bottom of the pan was directly over the center link, but it was close, and as soon as the center link turned either direction the upward curve in the center link would hit the pan. I wonder if these mounts are to high, allowing the engine to sit low?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

[Alwhite00]

You bought the knockoff 302-2 Heres mine in my 67, yours doesn't look like this. Get the Holley.

204079

[Alwhite00]

Here is the Holley vs the knockoff. Unfortunately you tried to save $200 but it will cost you $200

204080

204081

[GTO Jack]

Back to my original question. I am looking for some reference points front to back and height. once I know where it should be I can get there. Thanks.

[Alwhite00]

I can give you references on where mine is mounted but it will not help if the pans are not the same. You will probably just have to move it wherever you can get it to fit but it doesn't look like it is going to be able to move forward with that pan unless you raise it up a bunch.

[GTO Jack]

I can give you references on where mine is mounted but it will not help if the pans are not the same. You will probably just have to move it wherever you can get it to fit but it doesn't look like it is going to be able to move forward with that pan unless you raise it up a bunch.

I want to put it where it should be. In the pic its touching the cross member but when the engine is at 3.5deg tilt for the driveline it does not touch but is very close. It won't take much to notch the pan or the frame.

[GTO Jack]

So what is the correct part number for my 1in forward application? 302-1, 302-2 or 302-3?

[GTO Jack]

You bought the knockoff 302-2 Heres mine in my 67, yours doesn't look like this. Get the Holley.

204079

You say you are using this pan with 1 inch set back. Holley claims it can also be used 1 inch forward. I don't see an extra inch
between that pan and the cross member.

[Jk918]

He's also doesn't have the holley mounts, what pan does UMI recommend? Based on that picture you have to move the engine back

[GTO Jack]

He's also doesn't have the holley mounts, what pan does UMI recommend? Based on that picture you have to move the engine back

The UMI mounts are on the engine side only. They are just a different version of the clam shell mount and are in the stock location.
The frame side is the Holley frame mount for 1 inch forward. That leads me to think I would be 1 inch forward from his pic. I guess its time to buy the 302-2
and see what happens.

[Alwhite00]

I'm using generic 1" setback mounts, I did this about 7years ago before the Holley swap stuff was available. The 302-2 pan was available. I have no reference of the original bellhousing was as there was no drivetrain when I got my car but they were advertised as 1" setback but I have a lot of room at the firewall so I'm not exactly sure. I don't think the OP has the Holley oil pan though .

[Alwhite00]

What is the length of your sump area from the rear of the pan? I can measure mine and see if it would help you out.

[Alwhite00]

My sump is just under 10". Here are a few more pictures. Don't mind the mess, I drive this bitch.

204106

[GTO Jack]

My sump is just under 10". Here are a few more pictures. Don't mind the mess, I drive this bitch.

204106

Mine is just under 10 inches as well. The pan kick outs at the side are the deal breaker. I cut those corners out and now I can hold the pan as close as yours to the frame, even closer. That's going to be my plan B. I got out the KY and ordered the Holley 302-2. We will see if it works with my 1 inch forward mounts when it gets here. Thanks for the pic's.

[WesB]

All,
Hope this helps.
Improved Racing has a table with photos and deminsions of the LS oil pans. I can’t get a link to work.
Look on their home page down toward the bottom.
I’ve been in oil pan frustration land also.
R/
Wes

[Z06vet]

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_power/engine_and_transmission_mounts/ls_engine_mounts/parts/VK090175

Except for the pan, (if you're using the 302-2) Non of the parts you parts look like this holley kit. Based on their kits I just read about, the engine position is based on the trans you are going to use. I have used Holley's clamshell style kits on many F body's, and a C10. All fit perfectly using their corresponding pan, headers or manifolds, trans crossmember, etc. I have not done an A body yet, so I don't have any hands on time with that swap. I do know that after over 20 LSx swaps, I have found that mixing and matching creates many headaches.

[Hotwire]

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_power/engine_and_transmission_mounts/ls_engine_mounts/parts/VK090175

Except for the pan, (if you're using the 302-2) Non of the parts you parts look like this holley kit. Based on their kits I just read about, the engine position is based on the trans you are going to use. I have used Holley's clamshell style kits on many F body's, and a C10. All fit perfectly using their corresponding pan, headers or manifolds, trans crossmember, etc. I have not done an A body yet, so I don't have any hands on time with that swap. I do know that after over 20 LSx swaps, I have found that mixing and matching creates many headaches.

Looks like he's already invested in engine mounts and trying to figure out how to make them work. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/139049-New-64-67-GM-A-body-LS-Frame-Mounts

[GTO Jack]

Looks like he's already invested in engine mounts and trying to figure out how to make them work. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/139049-New-64-67-GM-A-body-LS-Frame-Mounts

The engine mounts work perfect now that I have a measurement from Alwhite00. I now can verify based on that 10" where about the engine should be. The frame mounts are right where they should be. In the forward position the Holley pan is 1/4" from the corners of the car frame. The UMI motor mounts put the hole in the same position as the clamshell mounts. The frame mount and motor mount work together perfect, snug fit with the exact same size hole for a M12 bolt. No adapter plates needed, looks right. The only issue was the kick outs on the pan hit the frame.

[GTO Jack]

Well I made the mistake of deciding to keep the Holley pan. What a POS this China crap is. When I bolted in the oil pick up, the support bracket was an inch from the stud. So now I need to start bending. After a few hours of bending a bit at a time it was on. Now I find the pick up touched the bottom of the pan. A few hours more bending and I have about a 1/4" gap from screen to pan. I hope that's enough. That pick up tube was on and off so many times the rubber O ring was getting loose. Hope that still works. Finally I get to put the pan on. Nope. When I put the pan bolts in loose, the pan sticks past the back of the block, a big no no. So off comes the pan, remove the baffle and ream all the holes. Lock tite the baffle again, put the pan on and its done, I hope. It still sticks past the block about a 1/32" but its the best I can do with it. Well worth $500 when even GM can sell a pan for under $200. I will scrap this car before I ever put another Holley part on it again.

[Z06vet]

I've recently had some similar issues with a knock off $200 pan. But all the holley brand pans I have used in the past have been very good. Sounds like you had a bad one, I hate **** like that. .250 should be fine, I have set several there over the years.

[GTO Jack]

I've recently had some similar issues with a knock off $200 pan. But all the holley brand pans I have used in the past have been very good. Sounds like you had a bad one, I hate **** like that. .250 should be fine, I have set several there over the years.

That's funny because the kockoff fit perfect if I notch it or move it to the standard position. Oil tube even fit good. My only worry now is after putting the pan on and off so many times, I started to hurry and on the last install, I lost one pan bolt. I pulled the pan off again and looked, but I hope I just kicked it and have not found it yet. Good thing I have extras.