416velle
11-28-2022, 05:00 PM
Where EXACTLY is roll center determined when a panhard bar is used? Lot of conflicting information out there.
I've done a TON of research on this topic and can vaguely answer it myself, but I wanted to get some info from some nerds out there who may steer me in a better direction than what I believe to be the case.
I've seen 3 different answers to this: the mount point on the axle (makes the least sense because no factory cars mount a panhard in the middle of the axle apart from spring cars maybe), the center of the bar REGARDLESS OF MOUNT POINTS (kind of makes sense for a bar mounted equi-distant from frame to axle center and center to axle mount, more or less idiot proof too),
And finally the one that makes the most sense is where the bar intersects the centerline of the vehicle. Speedtech uses this strategy in their torque arm setups, the panhard bar isn't completely centered in the car (axle mount is not directly under the frame on the pass side)
I figure the axle-centerline intersection makes the most sense in a theoretical setup where the bar is level at ride height.
I built a 3 link/watts link for my 69 chevelle, after copious amounts of pondering I will be cutting it out and using a panhard bar setup. Because weight, simplicity, exhaust out the rear bumper of the car, less wearing parts.
Ill post pictures of the watts; it won't work WELL for autocross. My geometry is baaaad.
Note to self fellas, a tape measure and bubble level isn't quite enough to back-half a car.
Theres never enough time to do it right once but always enough to do it twice. I wager the second rendition is always better than the first, regardless of what you're building or how much $ you're throwing away from the first try.
I've done a TON of research on this topic and can vaguely answer it myself, but I wanted to get some info from some nerds out there who may steer me in a better direction than what I believe to be the case.
I've seen 3 different answers to this: the mount point on the axle (makes the least sense because no factory cars mount a panhard in the middle of the axle apart from spring cars maybe), the center of the bar REGARDLESS OF MOUNT POINTS (kind of makes sense for a bar mounted equi-distant from frame to axle center and center to axle mount, more or less idiot proof too),
And finally the one that makes the most sense is where the bar intersects the centerline of the vehicle. Speedtech uses this strategy in their torque arm setups, the panhard bar isn't completely centered in the car (axle mount is not directly under the frame on the pass side)
I figure the axle-centerline intersection makes the most sense in a theoretical setup where the bar is level at ride height.
I built a 3 link/watts link for my 69 chevelle, after copious amounts of pondering I will be cutting it out and using a panhard bar setup. Because weight, simplicity, exhaust out the rear bumper of the car, less wearing parts.
Ill post pictures of the watts; it won't work WELL for autocross. My geometry is baaaad.
Note to self fellas, a tape measure and bubble level isn't quite enough to back-half a car.
Theres never enough time to do it right once but always enough to do it twice. I wager the second rendition is always better than the first, regardless of what you're building or how much $ you're throwing away from the first try.