69 Camaro Restomod Suspension Questions

[2BFAST]

Not sure where to start with this, but I'll start with my setup.

Iron block H/C 6 liter LS, soon to be LSA this fall. 4L60E

Front:
Stock SB coil springs (new)
G Comp 2" lowering spindles
90/10 Calvert Racing Shocks
All other steering and suspension stock

Rear:
Stock multi leafs
Steel 2" lowering blocks
Calvert Racing 9 way adjustable shocks (relocated inboard and behind axle)
Cal Tracs

Here is my question. My main focus was traction and going in a straight line. Basically drag racing and straight-line street fun. It for sure sees more street than track. I researched 90/10 shocks and read some guys said its sketchy AF and some guys are like iv ran them for years with no issues. And I will say, its definitely different. But im having bump steer issues. Its not often, but it will do it going slightly downhill with a small dip at the bottom and when it does it always darts to the right. have never got it to do it any other time or anything over 45 mph. Going down the highway its never done it, just bumpy windy two lane.

I know X and F body A-arms arent the best for geometry. And im not afraid to swap to the tubular variety but dont want to if I dont have to and especially still have bump steer.

So, my questions are this:

Can the 90/10's cause bump steer?
Could it be the factory A arms because its lowered? (it drives straight as a string)
Should I swap to single adjustable front shocks and ditch the 90/10s? (stiffer on the street, softer on the strip/race)

[punkin]

I had 90/10's on my car for years. It was mostly driven to the track and back and to a car show now and then. Also removed the sway bar. It was ok for limited use street driving but out on a country road where there were dips and bumps you really needed to pay attention. Similarly on compound radius turns or on-ramps/off-ramps, pay attention! Now that single and double adjustable shocks are getting more affordable, I personally wouldn't use 90/10s on the street. If I were building a race only car maybe but even then, there's little or no adjustability...there are much better options out there these days.

If you've lowered the car, remember that the shocks need to be ordered with the correct length for ride height. Full extension and compression have to be known to get the right length shock. Depending on how much you've lowered the car, is there a chance you're reaching the end of shock travel? In any case, what you've described is very familiar to me...going around a long sweeping turn and a bump in the road will upset things in a hurry. Rolling hilly 2-lanes similarly sketchy.

Personally, I would look at some double adjustables...a lot more tunability and safer if applied/adjusted correctly.

[David Pozzi]

Check out your Idler Arm. Pry up on it and see if there is play. Take a look at your bump stops. If you bottom on the bump stops very hard, the car can jerk to one side. Full dive will generate a lot of toe-out due to bump steer. Get some .5" taller outer tie rod ends from Proforged or Howe.
I've seen some Camaros with large diameter shocks fitted and the body can hit where it sticks up into the subframe. I've seen a Camaro sitting tilted because the shock got jammed up & stuck. Just something to check on if your shocks are large diameter.