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CarlC
07-02-2022, 11:41 PM
Going back to One Lap of America 2018, after our day in St. Louis doing drag racing, something did not seem the same with the clutch. It seemed to work fine, but occasionally it was difficult to shift into reverse. It did not get worse, and since the engine must be removed to get the T56 Magnum/bellhousing out, I just let ‘er ride with the understanding that the pilot bearing was a likely suspect.


Fast forward to the Goodguys Hall of Fame Road Tour last September. Hauling a$$ through Texas late at night, go to downshift, and the clutch is ineffective. Get the car to the side of the road, shut down the engine, and pump the clutch a few times. The clutch is working again, but for sure the pilot bearing has been lunched. The car made it home, another 800+ miles, while babying the transmission.


So, what was supposed to be a pilot bearing change turned into a complete drivetrain refresh and upgrade.


Exhaust:


Before tearing into the driveline, one of the big ticket items that needed to be addressed is the exhaust system. It had became progressively louder, and after 21hrs almost continuously driving from Ft. Worth to Los Angeles, annoying. The car has seen many different setups, and unfortunately, failures. The system that was most recently in the car contained the following:




Stainless Works 1-3/4” long tube headers (repaired in late 2018 due to tube-to-head-flange cracking)
Flowmaster 3” ball/socket.
3” flex joints
Exhaust hanger support from the transmission mount
Magnaflow “X” pipe
3” pipes to 18” x 9” Magnaflow mufflers.
3” tailpipes exiting behind the rear tires.
All ceramic coated




The prior system had a 3” Dr. Gas “X” pipe, 3” tubes into reducers that fed 18” x 9” Magnaflow mufflers. No ceramic coatings.


To my disappointment, each of these failed, IMO, miserably. The Dr. Gas part cracked, as did the Magnaflow X-pipe. The back caps of both sets of mufflers cracked most of the way around the perimeter weld and were missing nearly all of the noise absorption material.


Both muffler aft end caps have cracks most of the way around:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/02/Crack.jpg


X-Pipe has an axial crack on both sides. There are flex joints ahead of the X and it is supported by the rubber hanger.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/02/Crack-2.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVGr4)


It's not known how much packing was originally there, but it seems pretty light with lots of open perforations. The prior set of Magnaflows were the same way when they came out:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/02/20220216_153110.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVXk5)


Time for something new.


With the understanding that supercharging is just hard on things, and that the OEM’s have spent billions on exhaust systems that have to survive extended warranty times, I turned to a few folks way smarter than I and with really good data on said topics and came up with a plan to address not just the noise, but also the associated NVH and hydrocarbons that go along with it. Oh, and all while maintaining performance.


The new setup:




LS7 Z28 1-3/4” tubular tri-Y shorty headers, including the OEM heat shields.
All four catalytic converters from a 1k mile 2021 ZL1. I'll trust OEM validated 650hp rated parts vs. anything in the aftermarket.
2-1/2" flex joints
2-1/2” stainless exhaust, HD H-pipe, feeding big 18” x 9” stainless steel mufflers.
Full tailpipes exiting out under the rear bumper.




With said headers in hand (thanks to a fellow member who had a new take-off set available), test fitment on the passenger side could not have been any easier. It dropped in from the top without issue, the heat shields bolted on, and stock ACDELCO spark plug wires and aluminum shields went on just like OEM.


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/02/20220618_112231.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVZvS)


The drivers side did need a bit of persuasion. Several sections near the steering box needed to be slightly adjusted in a hydraulic press. It took about an hour to get sufficient clearance for the tubes, but not all of the heat shields were going to fit. The top portion is fine, but the lower part had to be sectioned into two pieces. The heat shields are so effective that at full temperature I can place the back of my finger 1/4" away with complete comfort.


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20211211_145230.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVS1Z)


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220618_112243.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVhud)


Since the LT4 that the cats came from have a different flange size and location, hacking began in earnest to make all four line up, clear the floor, bellhousing, crossmember, etc. Since the LT4 has a dedicated primary cat support structure that attaches to the driveline, I tried to mimic that by adding supports from the large tabs on the sides of the T56 Magnum. The idea is to relieve bending stresses caused by unsupported lengths of heavy components (cats). Here’s what the nearly finished system looks like:


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220202_170046.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVu5o)


LH and RH sides.


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220228_101033.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MV3Ti)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220228_101026.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVVwp)


To help protect the starter an OEM LS3 starter heat shield was modified and bolted to the aluminum starter mounting plate. The heat shield is made the same way the exhaust shields are, and for the price are less expensive than many aftermarket offerings. The had to have significant "adjustments" to make work but are completely hidden from top viewing.


There’s lots of rubber hangers in the system, along with commonality of flanges. Since I’m not trusting the mufflers to last forever, they have been set up so that they can be easily removed and replaced. When the time comes, each will have a fixture made so that the mufflers and flanges can be built on the bench and easily installed.


Speaking of mufflers, after much investigation, it was decided to use parts made by AP Exhaust. Though not well known in the aftermarket world we play in, they are huge in the standard replacement world, and look remarkably similar to those used by well-known high-performance aftermarket suppliers. Best of all, $37 each from Rockauto: AP / EASTERN XS125


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220228_101114.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVckR)


The common flanges used, except for the manifold/collector flange, were used to make work on the car easier. It meant increasing the size of the holes in the manifold and collector flanges to 1/2". So, lot's of new common length bolts were ordered from McMaster Carr. Skipping ahead a bit, after taking the car out for the first time with the new exhaust, after stopping an letting the car sit for a few minutes, there was a loud PING and the jingling of hardware hitting the ground. Here's the culprit from the manfold/collector flange:


https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220210_203438.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVgv7)


I was hopeful that the inclusion was just an anomaly, but after several more heat cycles another bolt failed, and it too had the same inclusion problem. All the bolts had to be changed to a different type to avoid getting another bad batch. Whenever somebody states you must use Grade 8 bolts for chassis work, I'd much rather choose a G5 from Aircraft Spruce than rely on these from what should be a decent supplier.


Driving impressions:


This is an apples and oranges comparison. Think Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Plus it can be difficult to be objective. Loud exhaust systems can have a placebo affect. If it sounds loud, it must be fast. If it's quiet, it must be holding back lots of power.


The new version does have a nice mellow exhaust tone at idle, but during cruise and acceleration it is a quantum leap quieter combined with a large reduction in NVH. Think of a modern OEM supercharged car with a stock-ish exhaust. Now I can hear the supercharger whine.


Changing the exhaust has become a good, but challenging, exercise. Good because of the noise and smell reduction, but loud exhaust systems mask other noises. Little noises not heard before now become the task of the day.


From a performance perspective, a back-to-back dynamometer test was not done. My seat-of-the-pants / known traction limits under acceleration/etc. tells me it’s still silly fast. Since it's so much quieter, I have to be careful when applying lots of power since the speedometer is racing upward at a furious pace.


Overall, the change is so far to the good that another set of new LS7 manifolds was purchased, and I’m on the hunt for another set of cats, all for spares/future projects.


Up next: Gears, clutch, and transmission alignment.

CarlC
07-04-2022, 08:37 AM
ep, the pilot bearing was destroyed, so the transmission needed to have some repairs done. Anaheim Gear performed the needed shaft repair by making a sleeve for the pilot bearing surface vs. a whole new shaft. New synchros, blocker rings, pads, etc. and she's like new again.

But, why did the pilot bearing fail? When this engine went in the block was a new GM part along with the bellhousing. Should be good, right? I was so wrong.....

Using the new Bowler T56 alignment plate, measurements were taken to determine the radial and angular/axial misalignment. For radial, 0.005" Total Indicated Runout is considered okay, and 0.002" on the axial for driver cars, 0.001" TIR for high-RPM cars. So the radial is measuring the runout on the bore of the hole, the axial is the measurement on the face of the plate.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220418_170317.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVmwU)

Though the radial runout was within tolerance, the axial was 0.011". Yep, that's what took out the bearing, and I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.

So, how to fix the axial misalignment? The traditional way is to use shims that mount between the engine block and bellhousing. But I can't seen to do things the easy way......

My friend Jeff was nice enough to let me spend the better part of a day using his mill to machine the face of the bellhousing to get it within tolerance. It took five setups to get it right, one heavy pass to get somewhat close, then multiple passes taking just a 0.001" - 0.002" and then checking on the engine. It's under 0.001" now without shims, but it was a PITA to get there. The cross-bar in the setup shown in the photo below was removed as even just a small amount of clamping force caused enough part deflection to create a wavy surface at those locations.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220331_185111.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVxqm)

Lesson? Always check the transmission alignment even on new OEM parts.

Clutch:

I'd show a photo of the removed LS7 disk and pressure plate, but instead show just one boring flywheel photo showing the 45k+ mile LS2 flywheel. It's still in good condition, and for how well it works, feels, and the price point, it's a great bargain for many LS builds.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/04/20220308_173152.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MV5iG)

Differential:

The housing was checked for straightness by Speedway Engineering, and a local shop checked the posi unit and replaced the bearings. The C7 bearing hubs appear to be in good condition and were re-used by bolting them back up to the MillerBuilt housing ends. The MillerBuilt parts have been excellent and have cured all of the pad knockback issues the car had experienced prior. Plus, all four corners run a common C7 hub which makes spares a lot easier to deal with.

Being super fortunate, a new set of mid-1980's vintage 12-bolt 3.42:1 gears were still in possession of a forum member that no longer needs them. With the poor state of gear manufacturing for our older builds, these things are worth their weight in gold. They were sent to GearFX for REM finishing and came out beautiful:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220314_145910.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVw5P)
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/03/20220314_145944.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MV0Iw)

andrewb70
07-05-2022, 08:31 AM
Good stuff Carl!!!

Andrew

Martin71RS
07-09-2022, 01:00 PM
Lots of work....never done on these old cars. It will be nice when all these things are fixed again :-)

rocketrod
07-09-2022, 04:05 PM
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing!

68Formula
07-09-2022, 06:46 PM
So cool to see OEM parts adapted.

CarlC
07-09-2022, 11:01 PM
Thanks gentlemen. She's been a 40 year work in progress.

The seats were purchased in 2015 as a floor model set that were being discontinued. Similar to the prior set, the red fabric faded badly on the sides next to the windows. Though the fabric felt great and held me in the seat well, just looking at it got them dirty. I swear the fabric has a magic dirt, grease, etc. magnet. Along with that the shoulder belt rubbed on the seat and the hokey velcro protector needed an upgrade.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/09/20210226_1729531.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVa8e)

To this. Marine grade vinyl so they are easy to clean with a fabric houndstooth-like insert to make the sweaty drives not so bad. The shop also made removable shoulder belt protectors.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/09/20220618_112632.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MVyDh)

CarlC
07-09-2022, 11:16 PM
Motor mounts. In particular, polyurethane motor mounts. They cause me great annoyance and displeasure.

Mock up an exhaust system that has really tight spaces/alignment, oil line routing, etc., only to find that it completely collapsed:
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220305_100318.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McZOm)

The poly has squeezed out enough that it covered one of the mounting bolts. The poly is super tough and would not easily cut. The bolt head had to be cut out.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220318_161123.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/MczEN)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220306_100732.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McGPP)

The headers were Stainless Works (well routed, stainless has less heat rejection) and ceramic coated. Grrrrrrrr......

Unfortunately, nobody makes a heavy duty rubber mount that is the same height as the Energy Suspension part. Next time I'll make my own using a later model rubber mount or try the Holley parts.

Motor mounts are now a maintenance item. I'll build a heat shield as well, but if the poly mounts are so susceptible, the shield should be supplied with the part.

CarlC
07-09-2022, 11:45 PM
While the engine is out/apart we might as well do some upgrades!

A new Cam Motion camshaft went in: Intake Duration 222* @ 0.050", Exhaust 234* @ 0.050", 0.586" lift for both lobes, 121LSA. With that, a new set of PAC 1219 beehive springs were needed.

Since the valvetrain had always had some sewing machine ticking, a Comp Cams trunnion bearing kit was ordered to see if that helped with noise reduction and to better support the heavier PAC springs. Nothing against Comp Cams as everyone makes mistakes, and they did fix the problem right away, but here's a perfect example of why parts should be inspected upon receiving and dealt with right away. The bolt hole should be in the middle.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220222_223749.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McNdU)

CarlC
07-09-2022, 11:55 PM
Superchargers Online rebuilt the supercharger, cleaned the injectors, and added these super nice Griptec pulleys.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/278835692_4980501582035375_7137244283576110083_n.m d.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McOyw)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220421_224450.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McbKG)

Working with Magnuson back in the early 2000's on the carbon fiber driveshaft was a fun project. The older steel shaft design would hit a natural frequency at higher engine speeds and deflect/bend. The ATP CF shaft fixed that problem.

CarlC
07-10-2022, 12:10 AM
So my co-driver Jon decided that he did not like the old throttle cable bracket and decided to tackle the project. I had held off doing it knowing it's a PITA do do right since it's not just the bracket but the cable and end attachments.

After four 3D printed versions for fitment tests, the final aluminum version uses a V-groove bearing for a cable guide. The bracket nests such that when rotated against the supercharger housing the cable lines up with the throttle body bellcrank. The cable sheath is a AN3 PTFE lined brake hose with a stainless braid and outer black covering. The foam pad came from a late model Jeep cable and adds protection and a bit of OEM appearance. From a time/effort standpoint it's probably the most expensive pound-for-pound bracket on the car, but it is super smooth.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220524_131802.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McHDt)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220524_131810.md.jpg (https://hostmyjunk.com/image/McuJK)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2022/07/10/20220618_112212.jpg

Jk918
07-10-2022, 04:28 AM
Hi Carl, if possible would like the details on how you incorporated the 3pt harness into the role cage, or it at least appears that way. Appreciate you sharing your project.

CarlC
07-10-2022, 09:03 PM
Pretty simple to mount the three-points. The retractors are mounted to the bar at the base, and the shoulder pivot as seen in the photos. In both cases long nuts were welded into the tube secure the retractor and and shoulder pivot.

68Formula
08-04-2022, 06:17 AM
Sorry Carl, additional questions on the cage/seat belts. The cage looks to follow the lines really well, was it custom-made or can it be purchased by a vendor? And the 3 points, did you have order something for a specific application for the retrofit? Thanks.

TheBandit
08-04-2022, 08:08 AM
Awesome to see these updates Carl! A couple years ago I went to much quieter mufflers and I know just what you mean about all the little sounds coming out that used to be masked by the louder exhaust. I'm sure the cats quiet things down considerably with bonus points for emissions reduction. Do you have any issues with heat coming through the firewall/floorpan above the cats? I recall they can get hot.

ryeguy2006a
08-04-2022, 10:13 AM
Great upgrades Carl!! Just like Clint, I did the same and swapped out to a quieter muffler and added tail pipes and it was amazing how many more squeaks and rattles you hear. But the supercharger whine is a way better trade off to hear instead.

SPLATT71MC
08-04-2022, 04:25 PM
I really like your build, I got to see it at Griot's Garage a couple weeks ago.

CarlC
08-11-2022, 03:01 AM
The roll bar is an off the shelf part that I tweaked to align with the f/r window seal. It attaches with brackets to the OEM shoulder belt mounting point. Since my boys used to ride in the back seat a full set of aft bars was out, so it mimics the early GT500 setup.

Since the LS7 manifolds are shorty's it means the primary cat is mostly forward of the firewall so heat is not an issue. The secondary cats are right under the floorboards. But, in the OEM installation there is a heat shield that is normally down that was flipped up. There is also a single sticky side reflective insulation attached to the floorboard. Zero issues after 3500mi on the Goodguys Road Tour last month.

The next trick is to try and wedge an OEM air filter housing into the engine bay. That should bring noise levels down even further with no power loss. There's a reason why modern cars get so big.

CarlC
08-11-2022, 03:04 AM
I really like your build, I got to see it at Griot's Garage a couple weeks ago.






Thanks for the kind words.

She was kinda grimy that day. We spent no time cleaning that day or the next knowing we had an 18hr banzai run starting the next afternoon to get back to Los Angeles.

CarlC
08-11-2022, 03:10 AM
They are just generic belts. The main thing was to have the inside attachment have the easy button release and the sleeves that make the belt stiff. That way the buckle pokes out between the console and seat cushion.

SPLATT71MC
08-11-2022, 06:45 PM
Thanks for the kind words.

She was kinda grimy that day. We spent no time cleaning that day or the next knowing we had an 18hr banzai run starting the next afternoon to get back to Los Angeles.

I think yours was cleaner than the T-bucket from Ohio.

CarlC
08-12-2022, 12:11 PM
I think yours was cleaner than the T-bucket from Ohio.

The 70's+ year_old couple with the T-bucket have driven that thing 470,000+ miles. Their stories of driving in the ice and snow are downright scary. They are my car heros.

SPLATT71MC
08-12-2022, 05:26 PM
The 70's+ year_old couple with the T-bucket have driven that thing 470,000+ miles. Their stories of driving in the ice and snow are downright scary. They are my car heros.

That's a lot of miles in something that has less creature comforts than some motorcycles.