View Full Version : Ridetech 4 link opinions
Sinnister69
03-22-2022, 05:16 PM
So ive actually had my 4- link for about 11 years now and today i went to mock up my new moser rear housing.
Per the instructions that came with my kit it states to raise the housing to ride height or the equivalent of the shocks at a length of 14-1/2”-15” eye to eye. Check
I made a jig back then out of aluminum square tubing with an eye to eye measurement of 15” dead on
Next upper bar jigs eye to eye 9-1/4” eye to eye. Check
Lower bars set at 24-3/4” eye to eye check
Housing and car level check
Pinion angle was 2-1/2° up but that souldnt be causing my problem or if it even is one
My question is that the upper bar tabs are laying on the axle tube way too towards the back of the car.
When i first installed the 4- link 11 yrs ago i the tabs layed nice on the axle tubes
Any advice or opinions are greatly appreciated
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dontlifttoshift
03-23-2022, 05:12 AM
How did you determine that they are too far back?
If all the links are the correct length AND the axle is is square and centered in the chassis and the wheel opening, you are good to go. I usually tack them and run the whole thing through travel to confirm that it works the way I want it to.
Josh@Ridetech
03-23-2022, 05:35 AM
What hole do you have the lower bar mounted in on the axle bracket? I can't see that from the pictures. It should be in the middle hole to start with (if you have one of the older kits with an adjustable mount).
The tabs do sit a little farther back on the axle tubes, I wouldn't be too worried about that yet but we'll dig into it before you make everything too permanent. I've attached the best picture I can find from the old four link install pics. The 2* to 3* up pinion angle is good. Also, on the shocks, I personally would rather see them closer to the 14.5" mark if possible, that way you have a little more extension travel.
I'd like to see what axle tabs you ordered from us as well for the new housing. Can you send me an email with your name, address, or order information? It's
[email protected].
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Thanks,
Josh
***Edit*** Steve, I've been going through my emails from yesterday and just found yours with the pictures above. I didn't realize you had sent that over so I apologize for that. I do see that your mounts are non-adjustable so ignore that. I'm working on finding the tabs you have as well.
Sinnister69
03-23-2022, 07:57 AM
How did you determine that they are too far back?
If all the links are the correct length AND the axle is is square and centered in the chassis and the wheel opening, you are good to go. I usually tack them and run the whole thing through travel to confirm that it works the way I want it to.
My original rear the tabs sat on top of the axle tubes with the same mock up
Sinnister69
03-23-2022, 08:03 AM
What hole do you have the lower bar mounted in on the axle bracket? I can't see that from the pictures. It should be in the middle hole to start with (if you have one of the older kits with an adjustable mount).
The tabs do sit a little farther back on the axle tubes, I wouldn't be too worried about that yet but we'll dig into it before you make everything too permanent. I've attached the best picture I can find from the old four link install pics. The 2* to 3* up pinion angle is good. Also, on the shocks, I personally would rather see them closer to the 14.5" mark if possible, that way you have a little more extension travel.
I'd like to see what axle tabs you ordered from us as well for the new housing. Can you send me an email with your name, address, or order information? It's
[email protected].
198276
Thanks,
Josh
***Edit*** Steve, I've been going through my emails from yesterday and just found yours with the pictures above. I didn't realize you had sent that over so I apologize for that. I do see that your mounts are non-adjustable so ignore that. I'm working on finding the tabs you have as well.
No problem Josh I know you are really busy so I posted here also.
I will send you an email with my info it has been a few years since i purchased the tabs for my own sake I believe I bough 2 of each size that I found on the site as Im not sure which ones were the correct ones
Sinnister69
03-23-2022, 08:07 AM
Oh i did make a 14-1/2” eye to eye shock jig also i can put that up in place of the 15”
Sinnister69
03-23-2022, 01:18 PM
I put the 14-1/2” shock bar jigs and reset pinion angle to 3° up and it looks a little better but wondering if i have the correct tabs
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Sinnister69
03-25-2022, 05:36 AM
So what is the best way to center the axle?
I’m getting 9-7/8” passenger side from axle flange to a plumb hanging off the quarter panel
And 9-5/8” on drivers side.
As much as i try to push it over it doesnt budge
I also have the new ridetech subframe connectors
Should i loosen that being that it is one piece?
My perfect center number is 9-3/4” both sides
I have heim joint ends
Double heim on upper bars and single heim on lower
Thanks everyone
Josh@Ridetech
03-25-2022, 07:01 AM
So what is the best way to center the axle?
I’m getting 9-7/8” passenger side from axle flange to a plumb hanging off the quarter panel
And 9-5/8” on drivers side.
As much as i try to push it over it doesnt budge
I also have the new ridetech subframe connectors
Should i loosen that being that it is one piece?
My perfect center number is 9-3/4” both sides
I have heim joint ends
Double heim on upper bars and single heim on lower
Thanks everyone
That could be due to a couple things. It could be some difference in the quarter panels from side to side (especially being that you're only an 1/8" off from getting it even from side to side). When the upper arms are in place, it's pretty solid from side to side, there isn't alot of movement at all. You could try loosening the subframe connectors and shifting that front lower mount around, that might give you the little amount that you need too, it's worth a shot!
Sinnister69
03-25-2022, 08:05 AM
That could be due to a couple things. It could be some difference in the quarter panels from side to side (especially being that you're only an 1/8" off from getting it even from side to side). When the upper arms are in place, it's pretty solid from side to side, there isn't alot of movement at all. You could try loosening the subframe connectors and shifting that front lower mount around, that might give you the little amount that you need too, it's worth a shot!
Im gonna try loosening the sfc’s
I also did a measurement from the inner part of the wheel wells to the plumb line to see if i had discrepancies to the qp’s and i got dead on 13” both sides
Doing stuff like this is tough for me because if it isnt dead on accurate i wont stop until it is lol
The first time i put in the 4 link on the original 12 bolt i got it dead center so idk what could be wrong
I can either loosen the lower bar mounts on the axle and sfc’s
I will report back as soon as i can
Sinnister69
03-29-2022, 10:53 AM
I loosened the subframe connectors and got the rear housing within 1/32” but what should i do now? I feel once i tighten the sfc’s it will throw it off
Should i continue with them loose and set my pinion angle and ride height then weld the tabs then tighten the sfc’s
Dont wanna make a mess lol
Steven
Sinnister69
04-07-2022, 06:55 AM
So i got everything perfectly centered from axle flange to plumb hanging from both quarter panels at 5-5/8”
Pinion angle set at 3° up
Ride height at 14-1/2”
And car and rear perfectly level
I did all the shifting while i loosened up the subframe connectors
My fear was that when i tightened the sfc’s it would shift again but good news it did not budge one bit
Gonna fire up the welder tomorrow and weld the tabs on
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TheBandit
04-07-2022, 08:24 AM
Awesome work on the install. Those nut & string plumbobs are such a simple and brilliant idea.
Sinnister69
04-08-2022, 03:33 PM
Got er welded up198862
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