Stock fuel line to LS fuel rail help

[DarkoNova]

Hi guys,

What's the easiest way to mate the stock line along the chassis to the fuel rail on the engine?

I have a 69 Nova with 3/8" lines and an L92 engine.

There's a shop somewhat local that can do custom hydraulic lines, I was just hoping to be able to buy something off the shelf.

Fuel system is going to be returnless with a Corvette regulator, if that matters.

Thanks!

[68conv455]

Try Earl's vapor guard line. The holley website recommends it for connecting their fuel pump module with the standard line.
On the engine side, it can again be used to connect to a -6AN to fuel rail adapter.

[Motobrewmaster]

You can cut the stock line near the end where the original fuel pump would have been mounted. Use some AN fittings and a flaring tool for your hard line connection. Then make a flexible line to your fuel rail. I used coated SS braided line, which I made up myself. It is easy, just take your time. The adapters for AN to the stock fuel rail are available. Note: locktite the adapter fitting if the screw on retainer type (recommended), it CAN loosen up and blow off...ask me how I know.....

Going from the original fuel pump location hard line is good because that is next to the motor mount. There is very little movement at that location compared to the engine. This allows the flex line to move less in relationship to the fuel rail. Note: I flipped my fuel rail so it fed from the passenger side like the original hard fuel line.

[streetk14]

198290Here’s what mine looks like as of right now. Not sure if I’ll leave it like this, but it should be ok. It’s a quick connect AN-6 adaptor to Earl’s Vapor Guard hose. I use OEM style crimp clamps on the Vapor Guard hose. I ran my Holley Sniper EFI using the stock metal fuel line and this hose where needed. No issues at all.

[79 Camaro]

If you have that hydraulic shop close I bet they have 3/8" steel line compression fittings with -6 adapters. In lieu of that I would bite the bullet and run new -6 line up the right side of the car. You will need some -6 line to use the C5 FFR.
All of your -6 fitting need to be the type that has the locking nut to make sure the line can't come off fuel line nipples.

[streetk14]

What type of fittings are you guys referring to that can come loose or blow off? Just want to make sure that’s not what I have.

[CarlC]

Hey Andy,

The internal plastic clip retainer is like that used on older OEM quick connections.

Later aftermarket versions use a "U" nut to retain the adapter to the fuel rail connection.

Jimi Day had one of the plastic clip versions come off during a One Lap of America event. When it did, the fuel line pointed right at the headers. It was raining that night so that may have helped, but way too close for comfort. It's not the plastic clip, as they have been used a bazilloin cars. I believe it's a problem with the fitting geometry.

See here, the first and second parts: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapter-fittings/specialty-fuel-injected.shtml

[streetk14]

198322

Thanks, Carl. This is what I have. To my eye, this looks a lot more like the OEM C6 line than the Russell parts in your link. Thoughts? Spraying fuel all over my engine bay (or worse) isn’t a nice thought.

[CarlC]

That type is fine Andy, but with a possible caveat.

If your fitting also has the internal clip that requires a special tool to "unhook", it may be difficult to use in some applications. The nipple on many fuel modules is quite short, so much so that there's no room to get a removal tool in there. Hence, the OEM's have gone to a positive locking plastic fitting on the pumps that require no tools to unhook.

[srode]

Try Earl's vapor guard line. The holley website recommends it for connecting their fuel pump module with the standard line.
On the engine side, it can again be used to connect to a -6AN to fuel rail adapter.Not saying Earls isn't a good choice, but since it's one of the Holley brands, I would be shocked if they didn't recommend it.

[ryeguy2006a]

My suggestion would be to take the stock 3/8" line to a shop that has a hydraulic flare tool and have them add a GM quick connect end to it. Then you can run Nylon lines from the hardline to the fuel rail. I just picked one up recently for $200 bucks on eBay since I've wanted one for years.

Left is the one I flared with my kit, and the right side is the one that I got years ago from Dorman already flared.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/03/51848278116_72e09b64f5_b-1.jpg

And here's the kit I got. Mastercool 72475.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/03/51848928095_9d792c0af7_b-1.jpg

[68Formula]

198322This is what I have. To my eye, this looks a lot more like the OEM C6 line

Appears to have the steel fingers and it has the clip as a redundancy. You should be able to feel it (and possibly hear it) "click" into place. And it's okay to push past that point (by hand) until you feel it reach a hard stop. Give it a light tug as if you were removing it without a tool and it should feel secure. Then attach the extra clip.

[streetk14]

That type is fine Andy, but with a possible caveat.

If your fitting also has the internal clip that requires a special tool to "unhook", it may be difficult to use in some applications. The nipple on many fuel modules is quite short, so much so that there's no room to get a removal tool in there. Hence, the OEM's have gone to a positive locking plastic fitting on the pumps that require no tools to unhook.

Thanks, Carl. I’m just using it to connect to my fuel rail. No issues with length or access to unlock it. Just wanted to make sure people weren’t seeing this type blow off.

[streetk14]

My suggestion would be to take the stock 3/8" line to a shop that has a hydraulic flare tool and have them add a GM quick connect end to it. Then you can run Nylon lines from the hardline to the fuel rail. I just picked one up recently for $200 bucks on eBay since I've wanted one for years.

Left is the one I flared with my kit, and the right side is the one that I got years ago from Dorman already flared.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/03/51848278116_72e09b64f5_b-1.jpg

And here's the kit I got. Mastercool 72475.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/03/51848928095_9d792c0af7_b-1.jpg


Now, that’s a pretty cool solution. I’m not sure nylon line is any safer than the Vapor Guard hose I’m using to connect to my rail, but a stainless braided line like what GM uses on the C6 Corvette would be awesome. Not sure it’s long enough, but it has the GM quick connects on both ends, looks nice, and will hold up to any abuse or heat it encounters.

[andrewb70]

You can flare the stock fuel line and add an AN union, then use an adapter at the rail that was posted above.


https://youtu.be/46hFmkTGGV8

Andrew

[streetk14]

Does typical braided AN like still have issues with fuel odor? Just thinking of options if I decide to replace the section of Vapor guard hose that I currently have from my fuel filter to the rail.

[andrewb70]

Does typical braided AN like still have issues with fuel odor? Just thinking of options if I decide to replace the section of Vapor guard hose that I currently have from my fuel filter to the rail.

To avoid fuel small, I always use PTFE lined hose.

Andrew

[68Formula]

Does typical braided AN like still have issues with fuel odor? Just thinking of options if I decide to replace the section of Vapor guard hose that I currently have from my fuel filter to the rail.

Braiding is just an aesthetic protective cover. It's what's under the braiding that counts.