Anyone here an expert with gear setup in 9 in rear ends?

[Zachalanche]

I cant take any more whining, but enough about my kid, lets talk about my car......I've had this on-cruise whine at 50+ mph since I got this car on the road. under heavy load, and under coast its quiet. so I pulled my rear diff apart to see what's going on. Seems like maybe I'm running on the end of the ring teeth too much? I'm wondering if I should shim the pinion out a little further, and push the ring gear closer to the pinion. Somebody set me straight here.
191967191966191965191968

Cheers.

[dhutton]

All the setup in the world will likely not fix it. You could try GearFX gears but I’ve seen complaints about them too.

There’s a bunch of threads about this.

Don

[Zachalanche]

All the setup in the world will likely not fix it. You could try GearFX gears but I’ve seen complaints about them too.

There’s a bunch of threads about this.

Don


are you saying that the gear set is just going to be noisy, and I haven't done the setup poorly enough to cause issue? Its Motive Gear BTW.

[dhutton]

are you saying that the gear set is just going to be noisy, and I haven't done the setup poorly enough to cause issue? Its Motive Gear BTW.
Pretty much. This is a problem with just about all 9” gears. GearFX claims to have better quieter gears. Some guys are going to a Ford 8.8” rear with OEM gears to get a quiet set of gears. John Parsons has quite a lot of experience with this. Maybe he will chime in.

Stielow gave up on 9” rear ends due to the whine.

Don

[Zachalanche]

Pretty much. This is a problem with just about all 9” gears. GearFX claims to have better quieter gears. Some guys are going to a Ford 8.8” rear with OEM gears to get a quiet set of gears. John Parsons has quite a lot of experience with this. Maybe he will chime in.

Stielow gave up on 9” rear ends due to the whine.

Don


I do have an oem set of gears i could swap in.

I wish someone would build a 3rd member that used the 8.8 stuff but bolted into a 9in housing. the 9 in design is so parasitic.

[dhutton]

Don’t take my word alone for all this. Send John Parsons a PM. Icemanrd also has a lot of experience with noisy gears.

Don

[TanMan]

Just my personal experience with a newly built Ford 9” with 3.50 gears, Eaton TrueTrac, and set up by Quick Performance. It’s perfectly quiet under load, cruise, coast, and no leaks.

I beat it up pretty good at autocross events and drive all the way to and from. All I did was join the center section to the housing, install the axles, and followed their break-in procedure. I highly recommend Quick Performance; great customer service.

[130fe]

I have also had the noisy gear experience with a QP unit, switching to a GearFX unit. Bought one with REM polishing and Dyno’d. Hoping to drive the car in the next month. Hey Don, where did you see problems with the GearFX stuff?

[Rick Dorion]

Anyone have experience with John's Industries?

[dhutton]

I have also had the noisy gear experience with a QP unit, switching to a GearFX unit. Bought one with REM polishing and Dyno’d. Hoping to drive the car in the next month. Hey Don, where did you see problems with the GearFX stuff?
I think I read it over on the other forum but I’m not positive.

Don

[Zachalanche]

I dug out an old R&P that i had (same ratio of 3.70:1), and there are some significant differences in the ring gear. the ford gear is a little smaller than 9" and the motive gear is a little bigger than 9". the Pinions appear to be the same dimensionally, but the ring gear has longer teeth. I'm not sure if this is at all related to the issues i am having, but I found it interesting. What's even more interesting, is the old ford gear set doesn't seem to show as much wear, the mileage is unknown on the old ford set, but i would assume its more than the 150 miles I have on the Motive gear set. it almost seems like there is some sliding going on between teeth rather than rolling. The oils came out looking like the paint on a bass boat...ok maybe not that bad, but i wonder if this is excessive for break in.

Also thanks to everyone for your input. and advice on different shops, but I really want to solve this one for the sake of my own knowledge, and I'm cheap. Sooo, If anyone is good at reading gear patterns I'm all ears. I thing i might be able to find some pics with the yellow grease from when i set up the rear end initially too.

191978191979191980191981

[Zachalanche]

Here are the pictures i took during the initial build. looks like i might have been on the upper end on backlash. I think.010-.012 is spec, and i have heard, some go with .008 on high performance applications due to growth at high temperatures.

191982191983191984191985

[79 Camaro]

I used John's on my 67 Nova and it was very quiet.

[Zachalanche]

Update, As found backlash measured at .018-.019. so that seems like a red flag. No signs of the adjuster nuts moving, or the caps being loose. based on my old picture it looks like i was around .012-.013 when i built this diff. So, over the course of 150 miles the backlash has increased .005-.007. maybe I didn't have enough load on the adjuster nuts and the backlash increased as everything settled into place, or there has been enough wear to create the increased backlash.

Question is, can i just reset the lash, recheck the mesh pattern, and be on my way? or will these gears forever whine.

I have read a lot of different things, but it sounds like factory gears should be .010-.016, and aftermarket should be .007-.010. since these are aftermarket, i currently have double the prescribed backlash.


Funny thing is that in my younger / dumber days I have set backlash just by feel, no noise no issue. Probably just luck. or maybe there was enough rubber in the suspension to keep me from hearing the noise.

[Zachalanche]

I tried reducing backlash to and the pattern went way toe, on the drive side. so I moved the pinion back (adding shims on a 9"), and readjusted backlash to .08, and I'm now having a hard time getting any kind of a pattern in the yellow grease. and the Coast side is on the toe of the tooth.

[Zachalanche]

This is the best pattern I can get. the gear seems to be worn in a way where the pattern doesn't show up on the center of the tooth, rather an outline shows up. I know this is common if you just spin the gears, but I am applying as much counter force as I can to press the teeth together. right now I have a .006 shim on the pinion, and .009 backlash. The coast side (concave) of the teeth might be a little toe heavy, but the drive side (convex) is confusing, there's a contact line where the tip of the pinion gear tooth lands, and contact on the end of the ring tooth. both extend across most of the tooth and wear is heavier toward the toe. It seems like i am close to where things need to be, but the pattern is weird due to existing wear. I could relax the backlash a little and still be much tighter than before. I'm trying to decide if I think I can wear this gear back into shape and have it be quiet....at least quiet enough for a loud car. or do I start trying to set up the old gears.
192017192018192019

[parsonsj]

I know others have had occasional luck with 9" setups that run "quiet", but I never have. I've spoken and corresponded with many others over the years, including some of the manufacturers, and I've concluded that it's just not part of the engineering criteria for the aftermarket. Factory gears are "triple-lapped" whereas most aftermarket sets are "single-lapped". I admit I've not used any of the new "double-lapped" sets coming on the market in the past couple of years, so they might be better.

In any case, if you want OEM noise levels, I'd use a Ford 8.8 setup. It's nearly as strong, has less parasitic loss, and can be had with 3" axle tubes, 31 spline axles, and any differential you can name. The best bit is that Ford Motorsports still manufactures and sells R&P kits. You can even find new housings if you look for them.

[andrewb70]

I had this on order with Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ugr-s007

The order was cancelled and now it shows as unavailable. I don't know if US Gear decided not to make these, but supposedly they were going to use a different manufacturing process that made the gears quiet.

My Cougar had a OEM 4.30 gear set in it and it was dead quiet.

Andrew

[BBPanel]

Towards the end of this article a section titled "Gear Ratio Selection and Tooth Combinations" - don't know how valid it is but at least its a methodical way at looking at it:
https://www.diyford.com/ford-axle-ring-pinion-assembly-guide/

[Zachalanche]

Towards the end of this article a section titled "Gear Ratio Selection and Tooth Combinations" - don't know how valid it is but at least its a methodical way at looking at it:
https://www.diyford.com/ford-axle-ring-pinion-assembly-guide/


thanks for the link, very informative. interesting that the aftermarket 3.70s are reported to be noisy despite it being a hunting ratio. Maybe I need to move to 3.89s if I end up having to buy another set.

the info about gear break in was good too. Foolishly, the first thing I did was get the car dyno tuned, this was back when the car had no glass, doors, fenders, etc. so the current gear set didn't see any break in miles. I wonder if I have damaged gears that would have otherwise been quiet had they seen some easy driving first. there does seem to be a lot of wear (for 150 miles) , and a lot of metal in the oil. I don't know how much of that is expected during break in.

[Zachalanche]

I know others have had occasional luck with 9" setups that run "quiet", but I never have. I've spoken and corresponded with many others over the years, including some of the manufacturers, and I've concluded that it's just not part of the engineering criteria for the aftermarket. Factory gears are "triple-lapped" whereas most aftermarket sets are "single-lapped". I admit I've not used any of the new "double-lapped" sets coming on the market in the past couple of years, so they might be better.

In any case, if you want OEM noise levels, I'd use a Ford 8.8 setup. It's nearly as strong, has less parasitic loss, and can be had with 3" axle tubes, 31 spline axles, and any differential you can name. The best bit is that Ford Motorsports still manufactures and sells R&P kits. You can even find new housings if you look for them.

Thanks for the info. If I had to do this over again I would probably go with the 8.8 for the weight savings and decrease in parasitic loss, although I have a 2012 boss 302 with an 8.8 that has a little whine to it as well. The dealer replaced the ring gear and pinion and all bearings under warranty twice, and there was no improvement. Its not terrible, but it is in a car that has a ton of rubber isolation, I would imagine it would be a bit worse if the rear suspension was all heim joints (like my mach 1). I could go to the effort of swapping the axle, which would require a bit of fabrication work and a different torque arm and watts link mount making it relatively expensive, but it seems to me that there is risk that there won't be an improvement in noise.

This build has sacrificed most comforts for the sake of performance, so, some noise is tolerable.....actually a lot of noise is tolerable, but the volume and frequency of this gear whine i currently have is enough that I can't stand to drive the car at all.



I had this on order with Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ugr-s007

The order was cancelled and now it shows as unavailable. I don't know if US Gear decided not to make these, but supposedly they were going to use a different manufacturing process that made the gears quiet.

My Cougar had a OEM 4.30 gear set in it and it was dead quiet.

Andrew


Its starting to sound like I should give the old oem gears a try.

[thumper877]

Just get a louder stereo :)

[Zachalanche]

Just get a louder stereo :)


like this?
AlphaBass Headset with OFFROAD Cable – Rugged Radios (https://www.ruggedradios.com/collections/prerunner-headsets-helmet-kits-earbuds/products/alphabass-headset-with-offroad-cable)

[Vimes]

Don't know if this will help, but...

https://johnsindustries.com/quiet-zone.htm

I've never used them, no opinion, but they claim to be whisper-quiet.

[Zachalanche]

Don't know if this will help, but...

https://johnsindustries.com/quiet-zone.htm

I've never used them, no opinion, but they claim to be whisper-quiet.


interesting. thanks for the link.

[Hydratech®]

I have been running Ford 9" rear ends in most everything I have ever put part breaking power into. They have been a love / hate relationship, but I have never broken one no matter what obnoxious abuse I have put one through - that's the love part. Having said that, I too am very sensitive to gear noise, and have had to retune all of my 9's over and over to get them to tone down - what worked on one didn't work on the other, and patterns right on the money were sometimes the noisiest (!) While it took diving back into the "chunk" many times, I finally managed to tune each one eventually in sort of like a blind man. If I went too far in one direction, it got noisy. If I went back in the other direction, it got quieter. I would chase down the quietest settings I could muster, calling whine under acceleration good, but zero tolerance for whining while on the highway - the NVH tuning and retuning was always the hate part...

If I saw that amount of metal coming out of my diff, I would flip out - that's a LOT of large flake. Enough to damage all of the bearings exposed to gear oil (everything in the center section). I would call that a fail, replacing the gear set along with all of the bearings and races, then flushing the wee out of the housing endlessly until every last bit of flake was definitely out whatever it took. One thing I always did was to polish all of the teeth on a new gear set on my 6" bench grinder with a soft wire wheel installed to smooth off the majority of the rough dark gear out of the box teeth. My theory on that was to remove that initial amount of surface harshness that was inevitably going to wear off during a first run, immediately shedding particulate into the gear oil. Saving that teaspoon of initial crud wearing off into the diff always seemed to help get the gears quieter with less back and forth tuning. It also resulted in finding only a little bit of grey pasty fine particulate on the magnetic fill and drain plugs after gently running the gears in a 100 +/- miles. I have also always done this with all flat tappet cams I have ever installed, never wiping a lobe out.

Now I come to what really helped me the most:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/red-58204

This shockproof thick formula has micro pulverized plastic in suspension of the fluid. This was always my secret weapon to get a "9" to run quieter and cooler. There is one catch though, as it layers everything with a super slippery layer of Teflon type coating - great for bearings and gears, but, well, not so good on limited slip clutch type posi units, absolutely not good with the Auburn cone type posi units. This stuff will turn a limited slip diff into an occasional one wheel squeal until it takes in a bite to lock in the posi actions. To combat this, I switched over to locker style rear ends - a bit crabby and less elegant than a silky smooth limited slip, but immune to the effects of having a gear lube that was too slippery. Checking your diff fluid was weird, looking like PeptoBismol on your fill / drain plug.

Flash forward, and now the real solution has come to market:

https://www.usgear.com/products/ring-and-pinion/ford-9-3-70-stealth-lightning-series

https://www.usgear.com/about/super-finishing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KeRdswkeiI


Mind you, they aren't cheap:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-09f370-isf

This has been the quietest 9" 3.70 gear I have ever run - what they could only dream of years ago. New car NVH, no break in required, not ultra sensitive to heel / toe, just fantastic. It only took 50 years to get it right, but FINALLY a quiet 9" is possible - hooray!

Hope this helps?

:Alchy:

[Zachalanche]

I have been running Ford 9" rear ends in most everything I have ever put part breaking power into. They have been a love / hate relationship, but I have never broken one no matter what obnoxious abuse I have put one through - that's the love part. Having said that, I too am very sensitive to gear noise, and have had to retune all of my 9's over and over to get them to tone down - what worked on one didn't work on the other, and patterns right on the money were sometimes the noisiest (!) While it took diving back into the "chunk" many times, I finally managed to tune each one eventually in sort of like a blind man. If I went too far in one direction, it got noisy. If I went back in the other direction, it got quieter. I would chase down the quietest settings I could muster, calling whine under acceleration good, but zero tolerance for whining while on the highway - the NVH tuning and retuning was always the hate part...

If I saw that amount of metal coming out of my diff, I would flip out - that's a LOT of large flake. Enough to damage all of the bearings exposed to gear oil (everything in the center section). I would call that a fail, replacing the gear set along with all of the bearings and races, then flushing the wee out of the housing endlessly until every last bit of flake was definitely out whatever it took. One thing I always did was to polish all of the teeth on a new gear set on my 6" bench grinder with a soft wire wheel installed to smooth off the majority of the rough dark gear out of the box teeth. My theory on that was to remove that initial amount of surface harshness that was inevitably going to wear off during a first run, immediately shedding particulate into the gear oil. Saving that teaspoon of initial crud wearing off into the diff always seemed to help get the gears quieter with less back and forth tuning. It also resulted in finding only a little bit of grey pasty fine particulate on the magnetic fill and drain plugs after gently running the gears in a 100 +/- miles. I have also always done this with all flat tappet cams I have ever installed, never wiping a lobe out.

Now I come to what really helped me the most:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/red-58204

This shockproof thick formula has micro pulverized plastic in suspension of the fluid. This was always my secret weapon to get a "9" to run quieter and cooler. There is one catch though, as it layers everything with a super slippery layer of Teflon type coating - great for bearings and gears, but, well, not so good on limited slip clutch type posi units, absolutely not good with the Auburn cone type posi units. This stuff will turn a limited slip diff into an occasional one wheel squeal until it takes in a bite to lock in the posi actions. To combat this, I switched over to locker style rear ends - a bit crabby and less elegant than a silky smooth limited slip, but immune to the effects of having a gear lube that was too slippery. Checking your diff fluid was weird, looking like PeptoBismol on your fill / drain plug.

Flash forward, and now the real solution has come to market:

https://www.usgear.com/products/ring-and-pinion/ford-9-3-70-stealth-lightning-series

https://www.usgear.com/about/super-finishing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KeRdswkeiI


Mind you, they aren't cheap:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-09f370-isf

This has been the quietest 9" 3.70 gear I have ever run - what they could only dream of years ago. New car NVH, no break in required, not ultra sensitive to heel / toe, just fantastic. It only took 50 years to get it right, but FINALLY a quiet 9" is possible - hooray!

Hope this helps?

:Alchy:

thankyou for the detailed response. definitely some good info in there. Although, I'm not thrilled that you've indicated that I have scrapped a set of new gears and bearings....but I had a feeling that was what was going on when i drained the oil.

[Zachalanche]

suppose I was to spring for one of these super quiet US stealth gearsets? should I go to a 3.89:1 since the 3.70 is a common "whiny" ratio?

also closer inspection of bearing races has revealed some debris related damage. Argg!.

[BBPanel]

.....Now I come to what really helped me the most: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/red-58204

This shockproof thick formula has micro pulverized plastic in suspension of the fluid. This was always my secret weapon to get a "9" to run quieter and cooler.....To combat this, I switched over to locker style rear ends - a bit crabby and less elegant than a silky smooth limited slip, but immune to the effects of having a gear lube that was too slippery. Checking your diff fluid was weird, looking like PeptoBismol on your fill / drain plug.

Flash forward, and now the real solution has come to market:...................

So you don't use the 58204 fluid anymore, even with lightning gears and a locker?

[MonzaRacer]

Ok , from an old Ford trained tech. I read the old manuals on Ford 8"&9" and because of the design they do make a whine or howl of sorts. It's by design those supposedly quiet factory gears generally are weaker and have different tooth configuration. Ie different tooth count.
Performance gears ,generally, do an awesome job with minimal noise.
On the stock side the manual stated lighter cars would make less noise, higher weight may "sing more" and was stated to test looser or tighter backlash, additives and gear oil weights. Right in training book.
Easiest way to keep 9" quiet is touse the center sections that run 12 bolt GM gears. I believe it's Strange who makes those.
Honestly, my buddy has 5 sec 1/8th mile drag car that has had 12 bolt since built. Alston Pro Gas chassis, VFN body, 380sbc/glide.
He was even 2011 div 3 champ.
He started out running hard block filled 355 production block, Hapco prepped oem steel crank, Indy Cylinder head ported Dart/World Products iron heads and lots of compression. Fresh out of garage started 6.05 et on 12 bolt rear. It was built in early 90s.
Finally settled into mid/high 5s till bad crank trigger pushed out front half of crank, and bent some rods.
The 380 is Bowtie CNC, Crower crank and rods, SRP pistons and Browns ported Brodix heads. 700+ HP and maximum grip.
9in whine, I have had great luck with Shaefers (https://www.schaefferoil.com/gear-oils-lubricants.html) lubricants.
Old friend turned me on to them for specialized issues.
Honestly after having built several rearends I simply follow gear makers break in procedure and and have used Shell lubricants as they are generally available everywhere. And had little issue.
If your still getting too .much noise try the Shaefers, if. It acceptable swap to the 12 bolt geared center section.

[Zachalanche]

Ok , from an old Ford trained tech. I read the old manuals on Ford 8"&9" and because of the design they do make a whine or howl of sorts. It's by design those supposedly quiet factory gears generally are weaker and have different tooth configuration. Ie different tooth count.
Performance gears ,generally, do an awesome job with minimal noise.
On the stock side the manual stated lighter cars would make less noise, higher weight may "sing more" and was stated to test looser or tighter backlash, additives and gear oil weights. Right in training book.
Easiest way to keep 9" quiet is touse the center sections that run 12 bolt GM gears. I believe it's Strange who makes those.
Honestly, my buddy has 5 sec 1/8th mile drag car that has had 12 bolt since built. Alston Pro Gas chassis, VFN body, 380sbc/glide.
He was even 2011 div 3 champ.
He started out running hard block filled 355 production block, Hapco prepped oem steel crank, Indy Cylinder head ported Dart/World Products iron heads and lots of compression. Fresh out of garage started 6.05 et on 12 bolt rear. It was built in early 90s.
Finally settled into mid/high 5s till bad crank trigger pushed out front half of crank, and bent some rods.
The 380 is Bowtie CNC, Crower crank and rods, SRP pistons and Browns ported Brodix heads. 700+ HP and maximum grip.
9in whine, I have had great luck with Shaefers (https://www.schaefferoil.com/gear-oils-lubricants.html) lubricants.
Old friend turned me on to them for specialized issues.
Honestly after having built several rearends I simply follow gear makers break in procedure and and have used Shell lubricants as they are generally available everywhere. And had little issue.
If your still getting too .much noise try the Shaefers, if. It acceptable swap to the 12 bolt geared center section.


I'm thinking I should have been better about performing break in. but instead I went straight to dyno tuning, and I think that set a bad wear pattern in motion. I think the measurable increase in backlash.....and the metal content in the oil over 150 miles is evidence of that.

I cant use the 12 bolt center section because my torque arm bolts to the pinion support. unfortunately, the way my rear suspension is set up, I don't have a lot of options for swapping axles, or center sections without doing a lot of fabrication.

[Vimes]

Easiest way to keep 9" quiet is touse the center sections that run 12 bolt GM gears. I believe it's Strange who makes those.
Honestly, my buddy has 5 sec 1/8th mile drag car that has had 12 bolt since built. Alston Pro Gas chassis, VFN body, 380sbc/glide.


I checked into that setup when I was planning a 3-link on my truck, due to the GM gearing requiring less power to run than the 9 inch. Strange recommends their GM 12 bolt gear conversion for the 9 inch for very lightweight cars, something like the 2000lb range, and said it was designed specifically for drag racers.

[214Chevy]

I'm just gonna have to have noisy car rolling down the road then. I've spent enough money on my rear end...housing, gears, True-Trac, etc. I invested in the REM, polished gears from Gear FX to hopefully offset the noise. If not, oh well, I'm gonna deal with the whining noise cuz I'm not spending any more money. :crying::crying:

[chicane67]

Sooo... the long and the short of it...

USGear is, and has been, in the process of building a *new manufacturing facility and their primary role was aftermarket gearsets, including the Lightening/Stealth series gears. I have even heard stories from others in the industry that USGear has gone out of business, but have since quelled that story as being untrue. And now, COVID has put its nasty little hands into the time line and we wait & see. We *might see production some time in the middle of next summer. I sure hope so. They are my all time favorite gearsets to use across the Big Three (next would be Precision, only because they purchased USGear's old manufacturing equipment way back in the early 90's)... but for now, its only stock on hand. I would even use a standard USGearset over pretty much all of the others because of manufacturing processes, quality control issues and the metallurgy used by USGear.


Most OEM 9" and 8.8" gearset (including Ford Motorsport) made in the 80's, 90's and early 2000's were made by USGear. So that should tell you something. Anyway... be on the look out for middle of 2022 for an update on that.



I had this on order with Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ugr-s007

The order was cancelled and now it shows as unavailable. I don't know if US Gear decided not to make these, but supposedly they were going to use a different manufacturing process that made the gears quiet.

My Cougar had a OEM 4.30 gear set in it and it was dead quiet.

Andrew

[chicane67]

I will second the reply. Those gears are toast. No matter what you do now, they wont recover.

By the look of the pictures, it was set up too deep from the get go and possibly the lash was too tight initially and they got cooked upon break-in. You have to watch the temperature when doing these kind of things. I giggle... GearFX is doing what we were doing 30 years ago and now offering the processes as a 'service'. It's nice to see someone paying attention to those details in the industry as an up front process.

See post to Andrew for my reply... but I didn't have issues with any particular ratio, for 30+ years... so take that article with a grain of salt. It all comes down to paint wipe, proper bearing pre-load and back lash. Meaning: mechanical experience wins. But... I wouldn't say no to a USGear gearset (or Precision) if I had the option out of all others out there... well, except for maybe Visteon gears.

I will also second the advisement on Schaffers, straight weight 140wt, #209 Red with the suspended moly... as well as their assembly lubricant. I have never had an oil related failure with Schaffers in 30+ years. Their assembly lube is so good that I had a customer (back in the mid 90's) do his 9" break in... without oil... and I actually reused the bearings when I put in another gearset. So no, don't skimp on doing it right the first time.

Last but not least is the break in cycle. New everything- drive the car for 20-30 minutes of constant speed (freeway driving) and then stop and let it cool overnight. Do this 5-6 times before you even think about putting load into/onto it... or hammering it, or hitting up the dyno, or drag racing it, or cone killing... etc etc.

The problem with so many gearsets now-a-days is the big talk (and changes that effect all of this) are about face hobbing, 2 cut, 3 cut, 5 cut... and most, if not all problems being associated with overseas manufacturing and metallurgy problems.



thankyou for the detailed response. definitely some good info in there. Although, I'm not thrilled that you've indicated that I have scrapped a set of new gears and bearings....but I had a feeling that was what was going on when i drained the oil.

[Zachalanche]

thanks chicane67

now that I think about it, this may be the first car i've ever built that was capable of doing this kind of damage. the only other re-gears I have done were in my 89 ranger which couldn't pull your hat off, and my 67 fairlane which has some performance, but probably less than half the power of my mustang. For both vehicles, I paid little attention to break in, but typical driving for those vehicles was pretty close to break in conditions. The mustang on the other hand - Straight to the dyno. I guess in hindsight that wasn't the best decision.

[toddz69]

Update on the US Gear ring and pinion sets mentioned in several posts here - I called Johns Industries last week and the gearsets are still unavailable and they had no idea if/when they would be available again - even though they still promote them on their website.

Another thing that confused me was that they answered the phone as "Gear FX" when I called. At first I thought I had the wrong number and had to clarify who I was talking to. The person I talked to didn't really give me any information other than "Yes, you called John's Industries and I answered the phone as Gear FX". With all the consolidations/buyouts in the industry these days, perhaps Gear FX bought John's, but I couldn't find any evidence of it anywhere online.

[andrewb70]

I don't know John's, but Gear FX was owned by Kyle Trucker. I'm pretty sure Gear FX was sold to Holley when they bought DSE.

Andrew

[Alwhite00]

I have 10k on my Quick Performance 9" in my 67 Chevelle (3:50) and it is quiet. I have no idea what gearset he uses but in my case it is perfect.

[cpd004]

Did you ever get this resolved?

I have a 9" and didn't know that they were these noise issues until I began reading on how to quiet it down.

[cpd004]

Called John's today just get a bit of info. The gearset they use for the quietest center is made by Euroricambi. They appear to be an Italian company. Not much at all on them out there doing a google search.

Is anyone hear familiar with this company and/or their gearsets?

[Vogelsong]

DSE is selling an 8.8 center section for the 9" Ford housing.

[Alponcho]

DSE is selling an 8.8 center section for the 9" Ford housing.

Anyone have experience with one of these?

It looks like GearFX has been acquired by Moser (from Holley) and there's nothing on Moser's website about these deals. Just wondering whether they're still being manufactured or whether DSE is selling from existing inventory?

[dontlifttoshift]

DSE kept that part, they have always been a DSE product, not GearFX.

I did one with a 3.70 and it was silent. I have more in the works but only that one is running.

[83hurstguy]

We are putting an FN988 in our Nova wagon - probably 2 years away from being out though. It's a nice part, and for a small fee, DSE will test run/break it in for you. I figure when you're buying something for a long term project car, knowing that something actually works before waiting two years is worth a couple hundred bucks.

The other cool part about the FN988 is that you can put on an S197 mustang yoke and use a double CV driveshaft. Since DSE uses a solid pinion spacer, it's not a big deal to change out like it would be if you had a crush sleeve.