03 Dakota ext cab

[Vimes]

Finally, after two years of trying to find a shop to do the initial work to my truck, my project has begun! Putting this in under Projects instead of Trucks, since when this is done it'll be more of a 2-seater sports car with a huge trunk than a pickup truck. I won't bore you with pictures of every bolt being removed, I'll just put in pics at milestones and in places where I want to detail something.

Initial pictures - truck is in my shop, before I began (aside from pulling the battery and starting on the air intake) working on it. I will be pulling the engine, transmission, tailgate and interior preparing this for the suspension shop. I wish I'd have had the skill set needed to do the suspension on my own, but I can't weld and want to make sure this is done right the first time. Better to pay a shop that does custom jobs for a living than try and figure it out as I go.


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[Vimes]

Found the weight ticket I had done when I first bought the truck. No junk in the truck, no driver, full tank of fuel. That's a 58/42 forward weight bias, requiring a 320lb shift to get it to 50/50. Course, I have no idea how it'll end since the iron V6 is being replaced with an aluminum V8, stuff's being moved around, removed, lightened, ect.
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Engine and trans are out.
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This was something I really liked about the truck - The removable rad support. It made getting the engine and trans out VERY easy.
Now you see it,
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Now you don't.
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[Vimes]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/04/tenor-1.gif

Stopped by the shop that is going to be doing the work. Shop's so backed up you can't park in his parking lot. This is both good and bad. The good is he does good work, but the bad is he pushed me back again and now can't give me a firm start date! All I know is I'm in line, but I don't know when he'll be ready to start. Looking at the work he has does, and seeing what he does to stand behind his work, I really don't want to go anywhere else.

Since the suspension is being delayed, I have other work I'll be doing, then I'll see if there is anything I can go ahead and start on that doesn't depend on the suspension being done. There's not that much I can do along those lines, since my order of work is suspension, drivetrain, bodywork, paint, interior. Sucks, but what can you do?

[Vimes]

Not much of an update. Builder is now saying 2 months. Probably for the best, as I'm going to get a little ticker tuning next week and will be on blood thinners for a month after. After that, I'll just be pulling bits off the truck making more room to work under there. I have, at least, stumbled across a way to get a 5x4.5 wheel pattern using 2013 Mustang GT brake parts. That and a set of 2 inch drop lower control arms will get the front just about where I want it, so I'm not totally out to sea on this.

Probably be a month or two before I make a new update. Meanwhile, I'll be hanging my head in shame, watching the rest of you pick up new projects, tear them down, put them back together, drive them, sell them and do it all again while I sit here waiting on a shop just because I can't weld. :crying: Eventually I may decide I've had enough and go learn how, because I've been learning watching some of you build frames from scratch.

[Vimes]

Minor update - ticker tuning went off without a hitch, and without the expected blood thinners. So, I've been able to remove more unneeded stuff from the truck, and it's just a rolling shell now. I still need to pull the front bumper, but beyond that it's ready for the shop.

I've also decided to get a Vintage Air unit for this thing. I had a Vintage Air unit for a project some 25 years or so ago that was never used, and I've been discussing it with them. I sent the old unit back, and amazingly enough they gave me a fairly large credit for it. Next week I'll be finishing that deal with them in the form of a GEN II super H/C/D unit. It's much smaller than the factory HVAC unit, and about half the weight. Damn that huge factory box was heavy! I haven't decided which control unit I'll use yet but I'm thinking their small, thin 4 knob job will do the trick. That will also let me put a much larger stereo unit in the dash since I'll be able to use the existing control unit's space for the stereo. The new unit will have the same number of outlets for the dash that I have, and two outlets instead of one for the defrost, so it'll be more than adequate. Since I'm also going to add insulation, the smaller unit should still be strong enough to freeze me out in the summer and roast me alive in winter. Once this deal is complete I'll be posting something in the vendor area on how well they've done for me with this swap. I'm also gonna have a lot of holes to get welded up, but I think that's something I might be able to handle on my own since it won't be structural.

[Vimes]

Got the word today, I can bring the truck to the shop next week. Finished stripping it down for the job last week. I am thrilled with this new development. It's been over 2 years in coming. Hopefully, once the suspension is done the rest of it will be fairly quick. I know MY part of it will move along fairly quickly.

[Vimes]

Truck at home.

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Truck at shop.

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Been trying to get to this state for over 2 and a half years now.

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That little 4cyl truck pulled that load almost 200 miles like a trooper, and got 15MPG doing it. Normally gets 21MPG.

[Vimes]

Discussed the project with the shop doing the work. Changed it up, now they are doing a full 2x4 frame and I'll be putting a Corvette IRS suspension under it, front and back. I like this because it means the truck can be aligned as though it were a Corvette, and all suspension related parts will basically be from the same car so roadside repairs won't be an issue. The only non-stock part will be using coilovers in place of the monoleaf spring.

It does mean I have to figure something else out on wheels though, since it's highly unlikely the Torq Thrust wheels I wanted to use will work anymore. They have a Corvette version of the Torq Thrust, but it weighs about 40lbs per wheel where the non-Corvette version in the same size comes in at 19lbs per wheel. I'm also going to run 20x10s now, to make it easier to find wheels that will fit under there. What makes this hard is I don't like complicated wheels, and that's almost all you can find in a 20 inch.

Later on down the road, when EVs stalk the earth and gasoline is hard to find, an IRS will make it easier to convert the truck to an EV. If this never happens, it'll still be an IRS suspension.

[Vimes]

Picked up a cheap set of Corvette wheels for the shop to use. New wheels, but cheaper than used ones off Fleabay. Probably Chinese knock-offs, but they'll work as shop wheels. I may even keep them around for use from December to March every year, although I doubt I'll be driving this much in the winter. 31lbs a wheel, so when the truck is done and painted I'll be looking for a lighter wheel more suited to the truck.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/06/CorvetteC5DeepDishWheelblack_main2__5427-1.jpg?c=2



https://www.bbwheelsonline.com/oe-wheels-rims-cv05-chevy-replica-oem-corvette-c5-wheels-rims-18x9-5-5x4-75-5x120-65-black-w-machined-lip-54mm-CV05-D18095-5475-54BM/##

[Vimes]

New tires came in today. Got the cheapest tires I could find in the correct size, Atlas Force UHP P275/40R18. Since they're just going to be used to roll it around various shops, paint booths, ect, and never actually driven on, I didn't want to put any more into them than I had to. 587 bucks delivered to my door, but still cheaper than used tires on the web where they seem to think a 300 dollar tire with 2mm left to the wear band is worth 280 bucks. Used tire shops near me didn't have the correct size in a set of 4. I really didn't want to waste a good set of tires on shop use, especially these days when tires are hard to find in stock. I'll get them to the shop in the next week or two, then they can get the frame measurements started and I can get the suspension parts ordered. And, as it is a truck, I don't have to worry about the tires being the exact correct size. No matter what, I'll have a minimum of an inch of leeway all the way around with the wheels/tires I'm using.

Strange, when you wait 2 years or more just to get a shop to say "bring it in", updating every once a week feels like time is flying.

[wfo guy]

What's the shop's time estimate?

[Vimes]

They haven't given me one yet. The plan of attack is, they get my wheels and tires this week as I taking them down Tuesday. From there they get the truck measured for the frame. Once the frame measurements are done, I order the suspension parts and get them modified depending on how wide the frame rails are under the bed. Mainly it's the cradle width for the rear end that this is important for. Dobberton's site said that if the cradle has to be narrowed I need the C5 cradle, if it doesn't need to be narrowed I can use the C6 cradle which I'd prefer. I'll get the suspension parts in, get the cradle to Dobberton and order the adapters, then the shop puts it all together. Barring any unforseen problems I'd say 3-4 months in all before I'm trailering my truck back home.

[Vimes]

Wheels are at the shop. Plan was laid out. While I was there I found out that the car that is in front of mine had an issue that they have to fix before they can get mine in. Don't know the details, but it'll take 2-3 weeks to resolve that problem. Since it'll be easier to do with the frame off, they're also going to install stainless brake lines on the frame. We'll also be ditching the fiberglass transverse leaf springs the Corvette uses for coilovers. And, the rear cross span on the frame will be doubled up so as to act as a rear bumper since I'm putting a roll pan and trailer hitch back there.

[dhutton]

Interesting that you chose to delete the transverse leafs. I’ll take the ride of those leaf springs over a Coilover any day. I retained them on my Dobbertin build. Lots of options with base, Z51 and Z06 springs plus adjustable ride height.

Don

[Vimes]

Heh heh, the whole point of this exercise was to get rid of the leaf springs. I didn't want to put any back in. Dobberton also recommends removing them if the rear cradle has to be narrowed and I'm pretty certain it'll be required.

[dhutton]

Heh heh, the whole point of this exercise was to get rid of the leaf springs. I didn't want to put any back in. Dobberton also recommends removing them if the rear cradle has to be narrowed and I'm pretty certain it'll be required.
Makes sense. I used full width front and rear cradles. Retained everything but the stock shocks which don’t work with the Dobbertin adapters. Used Ridetech shocks.

Don

[ryeguy2006a]

Just looked up the Dobbertin Adapters. That is really neat. Had no idea those existed.

[Vimes]

Makes sense. I used full width front and rear cradles. Retained everything but the stock shocks which don’t work with the Dobbertin adapters. Used Ridetech shocks.

Don

I'll most likely go with the Ridetech coilovers since that's what he built them to run with.


Just looked up the Dobbertin Adapters. That is really neat. Had no idea those existed.

Yeah, and I'm glad he's making them. Gonna be a truck saver if they succeed in getting rid of gasoline before my time on the merry-go-round is up.

[Vimes]

Minor update - truck is still pending the previous project, no timeline now. Delay is because they found a mess at the end which they are making right, caused by the shop that had that car before them. Irritating to be delayed yet again, but I'd rather another delay when the delay is due to the shop won't let substandard work out the door regardless of the cause.

Anyway, in my Vintage Air attaboy thread I said I'd post pictures and weights. There is a considerable size difference between the factory unit and the VA unit, which frees up a considerable amount of room under the dash. I'm hoping there will be enough to build a small soundproofed box for the fan motor that also has an air filter attached. The factory setup worked well enough but it was LOUD on max airflow. I'd like the airflow but not the racket. Not only that, but the factory box had holes through the firewall all over the place which I can now close up and condense to a much smaller area. If it's feasable, I also want to make little hatches that will allow me to replace the heater core and AC evaporator without pulling the dash and unit out down the road. My 75 year old arse will appreciate my 50 year old arse doing the extra work today :).

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There is also the weight savings of about 10lbs between the two, +/- crappy old scale inaccuracy. Not much, of course, but when you knock back 5lbs here and 10lbs there, eventually you knock back a noticeable amount of weight. I don't know how much I'll actually get it down though, since I'll be adding crap like soundproofing and whatnot. The truck weighed 4000lbs when I started, I'll be happy if I maintain that weight by swapping dead weight out for useful stuff.

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[ryeguy2006a]

Wow, that's a huge difference!

[dontlifttoshift]

That noise on max isn't going to be less with the Vintage Air unit.

You do not replace a heater core or evaporator, you replace the whole unit. The case is glued together around the core. The heater and evaporator cores are one unit on a Gen II system.

[Vimes]

That noise on max isn't going to be less with the Vintage Air unit.

You do not replace a heater core or evaporator, you replace the whole unit. The case is glued together around the core. The heater and evaporator cores are one unit on a Gen II system.

There's room for improvement on sound control, I think I'll be able to do something there. But thanks for telling me the unit itself is not serviceable. I'll concentrate instead on making it easier to remove as a unit. But with any luck it'll never go bad. I already intended to attach grounding wires to the heater core and AC evaporator, since the main problem with these guys is galvanic corrosion pinholing them.

[Vimes]

Ugh, more delays. Shop lost another mechanic so I'm delayed again. Disheartening.

[Vimes]

An update, such as it is - still waiting. The shop is now down 2 mechanics, and the owner is doing basic repair work and putting projects such as mine on the slow boil. When I stopped in to check, he had just pulled a bad piston out of a Ford pickup, and it sounded like it messed the block up. The only good news is the one in front of mine, a late 70s Malibu which had to have the frame replaced, is getting close to being finished. My truck is already there, so once it's done he can roll mine right on in and get started. No idea if it will happen this year or not, the good part of that being there's only a month left in this year. :crying:

In the meantime, I've been knocking out home projects. Busy busy busy, but the more I knock out the less the wife can complain about, and the less time I have to be upset about not being able to work on my truck.

[Vimes]

Ugh. Finally got a measurement for the rear wheel track, so I can start ordering suspension parts. I was one month away from deciding that this would never happen. 60 inches wheel face to wheel face, so now it's off to Dobberton's to get the part-y started.

[jaybee]

Happy to see an update. Sometimes it does feel like there's no hope for a project.

[Vimes]

Happy to see an update. Sometimes it does feel like there's no hope for a project.

You ain't kidding. I was going to pull the plug next month and find something that didn't require depending on a shop if I didn't have SOME sort of progress.

I ordered the Dobberton adapters, should be in next week. I'll probably need to wait till the suspension is together and the truck is home before working out the rear diff. My preference is going to be an 8 speed auto with the Corvette transmission, but if it comes to it I can use a Camaro drivetrain from the trans back.

[Vimes]

I finally feel like the ball is actually rolling here now. Top picture are the new Dobberton front adapters, bottom is the rear. They came in a few days ago but I wasn't able to open the boxes for pics until today. I still need to order an oil pan and a front and rear C5 suspension, then my part will be done until my chassis guy gets the frame built and turns it into a rolling chassis with the Corvette bits. Unfortunately Dobberton isn't modifying cradles right now, not sure why, but my chassis guy said he can handle modding the cradles.

While he gets the chassis done, I'll get the 4.8L I'm using as an initial engine ready for him to use as a mock-up. The 4.8L will be around until the end, after which I'll put something a bit more potent in.

[Vimes]

New suspension is on its way, courtesy fleabay. 2003 Corvette front and rear, off the same car. Should be in next week.

[ryeguy2006a]

Wow, those are really cool pieces! Should make for a really great handling truck!

[Vimes]

My 2003 Corvette front and rear suspension arrived, sitting on my shop floor. I'll break it down over the next week to take to the frame shop, and I'll have a few parts off it for sale soon. This feels surreal, after waiting almost 3 years for this I'm finally seeing some movement. Just hoping there are no more delays on the frame shop side.

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[Vimes]

I removed the stuff from the suspension that I won't be using. Once I get the parts prepped I'll put them in the for sale area. The stuff I'm using, along with the Dobberton adapters, was dropped off by the shop today. Still no scheduled start date, as they are still having manpower issues.

[Vimes]

Here I sit all broken hearted,
Bought my parts but the shop hasn't started.

Unbelievable how hard it is to find a shop willing to work. I've been getting a lot of excuses on why they can't start, and no actual work has been done. But, we're down to next week, next week, next week. So, next week I'm going to see what the new excuse is, and tell them that if they haven't started by the first of August that I'm taking the truck back and finding someone else. The shop owner is a buddy of my brother's which is why I've been so patient, but 2 years is 2 long.

If anyone has any suggestions on someone else in Oklahoma preferably that does outstanding work and actually wants to take on work, I'd appreciate being pointed in their direction. I've been speaking to shops in the area but they either won't return calls after I stop in to discuss with them, or don't want the job unless I hire them to do a turn-key project. Turn-key is a problem for me as I want to do the work myself as much as possible. I'd do the frame myself but I don't have the skills and equipment necessary to build one that is safe and reliable. Perhaps if I was planning to build several I'd be willing to put in the time and effort but at my age and for a one-off project I'm just not interested in taking that on.

In other news, my daughter thoughtfully involved my Colorado in an accident although it was not her fault. She was driving on a 4 lane city street when someone at a side street making a left turn pulled in front of her. Nobody was hurt, front corner to front corner contact, but the truck was totaled. What was amazing was the insurance company gave me 8 grand for a truck I had all of 4 grand in, used for a farm beater and owned for 4 years. The replacement is a 2005 Dakota 2WD that's far more comfortable to drive than the Colorado was. I put a complete new front suspension under it this week as all 4 ball joints were gone and the rack had a bad seal leak so overall I came out ahead on the accident. I think the 4cyl Colorado was faster than this 6cyl Dakota, but I've not had a chance to fiddle around with the Dakota yet.

[ryeguy2006a]

That's a huge bummer... Sorry to hear your troubles. You are way more patient than I am. If it were me, I'd get the truck back and buy a chop saw. With those suspension adapters, you really only need a square frame at the right width to mount them to. Good luck finding a qualified shop.

[dhutton]

As someone who has used the Dobbertin adapters I can say that it is a whole lot easier if you keep the stock Corvette track width. Are you sure you need to reduce the track width? How does the Dakota track width compare to the Corvette track width?

Don

[Vimes]

ryeguy2006a, my welding skills aren't good enough for frame work. Wish they were.


As someone who has used the Dobbertin adapters I can say that it is a whole lot easier if you keep the stock Corvette track width. Are you sure you need to reduce the track width? How does the Dakota track width compare to the Corvette track width?

Don

Now you have me wondering. According to the web the Corvette has a 62.0 front/62.1 rear track width and the Dakota has a 61.4 front/62.4 rear track. We measured the truck at the shop and based on the Dobberton site information the cradles need to be narrowed several inches. But now I think I'm going to discuss this with the guy that has it now because if we don't actually need to narrow the cradles he may be more willing to get started. The whole cradle narrowing may be why he doesn't want to start it.

Another shop that did a wonderful job with another member's car said they could do it without the adapters, mounting the points directly to the frame. I'm now in line at that shop as well, but they said several months before they can start.

That's a sharp truck, and is pretty much what I want to do with my truck.

Dobberton info:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/CORVETTE20IRS20SPECIFICATIONS2020REAR-1.jpg

[dhutton]

Do you have the dimensions of the Dakota frame?

Don

[dhutton]

Frame dimensions. :)

Don

[Vimes]

Neat, and I appreciate it. But yes, I have a full set of paper shop manuals for the truck including the body/frame repair book. By the time I get done with this truck, IF I ever get done with it, most of the manuals will be useless. I'll build a new set as I go. :twothumbs

[Vimes]

Short update - the frame shop now has a full complement of mechanics for their repair side, so now the race side is starting to get caught up. Still no start date but hopefully soon.

Perhaps the delay was a blessing in disguise though. I've worked out a transmission solution thanks to the efforts of other board members. I still want a rear mount transmission so the extra time will let me figure that out, but the current plan is an 8HP transmission with a Turbolamik standalone controller. If I can't get this to work rear mount, then Turbolamik also makes an 8HP to LS/LT adapter. I've also settled on shooting for 600HP, which will give me a quick, fun to drive truck without being too much of a handful. I don't need to have to be the fastest guy around.

[Vimes]

This project is still going on, but I don't want to jinx anything with an update beyond this. I did want to post up a picture of what I envision though. This is a stolen picture of a random Dakota that I manipulated in Paint to an approximation of what I want to do. And it is a rough approximation, as Paint is a horribly inaccurate way of altering pictures. I've already got a crewcab bed cut down to match the profile of the cab I have instead of the profile of a crewcab. Going with the crewcab bed knocks off 14 inches of truck, and hopefully around 100lbs of weight when the shorter frame is taken into account. It also gives it more of a balanced look vs a longer bed. It's not like I'll be using it as a truck when it's done.

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[Vimes]

Checked with the shop yesterday. They finally finished the last project that was in front of mine, and will be getting started on my job now. I went down and went over the particulars, and they're going to start getting the stuff together. I have a couple of questions though.

Will 2x3 square tubing suffice? The truck will essentially be a Corvette with a bed and not used for hauling loads. In fact, I'm probably going to be boxing the tailgate in (found a place that makes carbon fiber tailgates) so it doesn't open and will have a bed cover on making the bed into a trunk. And, offroading is not a thing for me. I'm interested in the lighter weight but not at the expense of being durable.

And, does anyone have a source for chromium steel square tubing? So far I'm only finding 1 inch by 2 inch, which obviously won't cut the mustard. I'd like to find a source for 2x3 and 2x4 chromium steel, suitable for use in a frame.

[dhutton]

Dobbertin adapters need 2x4 tube. I don’t think anyone uses chrome moly for frames. Check with Mike at Cornfield Customs.

Auto weld guys are worthless. Mike is a better bet.

These guys also bend frame rails. https://sschassisworx.com/about-us

I’m sure Donny has some info too. @dontlifttoshift

Don

[ryeguy2006a]

Congrats! Look forward to seeing some updates.

[wfo guy]

I'm using 2x6 and shrunk down to 2x4 for front and rear clips if needed. I would not use anything smaller than 2x4 .187 for main rails with what you are describing. Torsional stiffness is necessary for suspension to work properly.

[Vimes]

dhutton - He's going to mount the suspension direct so the Dobberton adapters aren't needed anymore. I bought them hoping to make it easier on a shop to get the job done but I'll be happy to save the weight. They will be in the For Sale section here in a bit.

Bummer on the no chrome moly bit. I was hoping that chrome moly's strength would let me get away with smaller main tubes. The shop is going to check with their supplier, but if it's not possible I'll probably just go with the mild steel 2x4s. And I'll discuss getting tubes custom bent with him as well. A mandrel bent tube would be lighter than cut tubing with welded plates on the side. Appreciate the recommendation for tube benders, edited my last post to remove the one I found.

wfo guy - thanks. I doubt I'll go 2x6 due to weight, but I'll forget using the 2x3s then.

[dontlifttoshift]

How tall is the stock Dakota frame? Are you adding some other structure that will negate the need for the beam strength of the taller main rails?

[Vimes]

That I don't know and the shop is about 200 miles away. Looking at internet pictures of Dakota frames, it looks like it's boxed in the engine area up to the transmission crossmember, then goes to C channel from there back. I'd say it's 6 inches at least in the C channel area.

There won't be a cage, but there will be cross members and other reinforcement.

I THINK this is a picture of the same frame, but not my actual one.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/P8250745resize-1.jpg

[dontlifttoshift]

Thanks, that is about what I figured. There is no way I would use less than 2x6.

A car gets a large portion of its beam and torsional strength from the body and roof. That's why early convertibles had extra bracing, or crossmembers, or bigger rockers, etc. to try and hold them together and on a 2 post lift you still can't open the door sometimes. All the crossmembers in the world won't make a 2x4 rail have the same beam strength as 2x6.

[Vimes]

Thanks, I'll discuss it with them, although there are several shops selling C10 frames that are 2x4 steel. The C10 will be roughly the same wheelbase and weight as mine so I may still go with the 2x4.

https://scottshotrods.com/81-87-square-body-c10-truck-chassis/ shows a C10 frame using 2x4 .120 for the main rails.

Edit - This has been preying upon my mind so I've done further research into this. I used to have a 79 GMC halfton, which I used to carry stuff in and I know I had more than a ton in the back more than once. The 73-80 Chevy full size trucks use 6 inch C-channel frames. Dodge D10s from the same era use 5.5 inch C-channel. It looks like they use 3/16 steel for this.

Tensile strength for the Chevy frames is 39,000 PSI, using carbon steel. They don't make it easy to find, but from what it looks like 2x4 0.120 cold steel has a tensile strength of 87,000 PSI. I'm confident that 2x4 will be plenty for this project, particularly since I'll be lightening up what I can and the bed will not be used to carry heavy loads; I'm even considering carpeting it.




I'm not going to carpet it.

[ryeguy2006a]

I have no skin in the game, but I'd be listening to the experts here and go with the 2x6" frame rails. I'd think the extra weight could be offset by weight reduction in other areas. I'd go bigger since it's not something that you'd want to redo down the road.

[dontlifttoshift]

I would never use Scotts hot rods as an example of how to do anything.

It's your project, do what you want, but 2x4 rails will be a mistake. There is zero upside to underbuilding this part of the frame.

2x4x.120 is 4.75 pounds per foot
2x6x.120 is 6.46 pounds per foot

You are talking about saving 50 pounds of weight at the very most in the best possible spot to carry some extra weight and giving up half of the rigidity.

It is 100% not about carrying loads and 100% about rigidity. Take a 10' length of 2x4 with jack stands on either end and stand on it and measure the deflection. No imagine that driving down the road. The second "wave" you feel in the truck after every bump is that 2x4 flexing. It'll never fail, as you noted, but it will never drive right.

[Vimes]

You guys are making a compelling argument. Thoughts on 2x6 main rails and 2x4 at the axles? I've also seen 3x4 steel, would this have the same deflection problem as 2x4s? I'm already looking at every possible pound in other areas, and have been eating a lot more salad lately. :crying:

[dontlifttoshift]

2x6 main rails and 2x4 at the axles?

That's they way to do it.


RE: 3x4 you have to increase section height to get a meaningful increase in beam strength. That is also why extra crossmembers really don't help but a roll cage helps significantly.

[Vimes]

OK, you've convinced me. I asked the guy doing the work to use 2x6 0.120 for the main beams and 2x4 0.120 over the axles. Appreciate it. Not sure where I'll save the extra weight from, but I would rather carry a little extra weight where it's meaningful. But, the factory frame weighs 542lbs according to Dodge and the new frame will be 13 inches shorter due to my using a crewcab bed behind an ext cab.

[Vimes]

Finally, some progress :seizure:! Although, not what I really wanted to see but I'll cover that. These pictures are just a quick mock-up, nothing is welded (just tacked for now) and nothing is placed correctly yet as they needed my input before doing more.

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First up, the stock frame is actually 2x4 under the cab, not 2x6 as I thought. And, it's actually a 2x4 C-channel with a very crappily welded box on it. You can see the stock frame in the background of pic 3. At the back of the cab it transitions to a 2x5 C-channel for the underbed portion and Dodge rated it to haul about 1800lbs in the bed. Based on this, we decided that going 2x4 box for the entire frame will be sufficient. I did ask him about hitting bumps and having the cab hit the bed, but he'd confident that this will not be an issue. The truck won't ever be used to haul a load, so this should not be a problem anyway. When this is done the tailgate will no longer open, and it will have a bed cover which will effectively make the bed into a 5ft by 5ft by 2ft trunk.

Now then, for the problem and it's one I don't really get. The truck's front track is 61.4 in, Corvette 61.9 in. The truck's rear track is 62.4 in, Corvette 62.0 in. But, the Corvette cradle has the front tires sticking out too far, like by 3 inches too far.
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Both the front and the rear cradles will need to be narrowed by about 6 inches to get the tires inside the fenderwells, and I'm going to have to modify the fenderwells to make room for 10 inch wheels. Not entirely unexpected. I'll also have to flare the fenders a bit to make room for turning the tires up front. This also means I need to source a shorter steering rack. The Corvette steering rack is 27 inches to the A-arm pivot points and I'll need to come up with a 23 inch steering rack now. He'll be discussing this with his fabricator about the possibility of just doing away with the front cradle, but thinks they will have to just use the narrowed ones. I told him to use his discretion on whether or not the front cradle is needed, or if they think it would be better to fabricate something for this.

Based on the wheel tracks I had been hoping that the Corvette suspension would put the wheels where the stock Dakota wheels were, and I could flare the fenders and use wheels with more of a dish. Now I have to find a wheel I find acceptable that fits a Corvette, and there aren't many of those.

Another issue looks like the steering will need to have a mult-link linkage. The picture shows that the steering linkage would have fit perfectly next to the framerail, almost a straight shot, but if it's moved in 3 inches the linkage will run into the frame. But this will be the fabricator's problem. He's pretty good though, so I don't expect this to be much of a problem. 215256

I had thought about using an Aston Martin 8HP90 transaxle and doing a torque tube, but after looking this over I'm just going to do a normal engine mounted transmission. The engine is going to have to ride a bit high on this, but there will be room for it. I'm also prepared to have to clearance the trans tunnel all the way to the back of the cab. For now I'm going to plan on an LS engine with an 8HP transmission. The GM 8 speed doesn't have any aftermarket support, and has problems but the 8HP does have aftermarket support. I'm also running my second vehicle with the 8HP and it's as perfect a transmission as I've ever encountered. Since I'm doing a front trans, I'll have to locate a rear differential now.

But, I'm a happy camper. My project has finally started.

[Vimes]

I found the track widths on the Corvette at the sites below, but internet information is only as accurate as what gets keyed in:

https://www.edmunds.com/chevrolet/corvette/2003/features-specs/
https://corvettestory.com/specs/2003-Corvette-specs-options.php

The Dakota specs came from:
https://www.edmunds.com/dodge/dakota/2003/features-specs/

I would expect that the same site providing information on two different vehicles would at least be consistent in where they're taking the measurements, but perhaps not. The wheel track is supposed to be taken at the wheel mounting surface.

The wheels I'm using (just for the build process) are a set of OE Wheels CV05 in 18x9.5, for a C5 Corvette. Thought they were 18x10s. The offset is 2.12in, backspace 7.38in.

Edit - removed old information.

The shop just called back, and we have a definitive answer now. The Corvette, as you say, measures 71 inches outside to outside on the tires. They took the same measurements and had the same read. The Dakota measures 71.5 inches (whew) outside to outside. Therefore, we'll be running with it like it is. The fenders will be quite a bit closer to the tires with the new suspension, so they will likely need some clearancing/flaring work when I get the truck back. That'll be a helluvalot easier to do than narrowing everything then trying to make all the other stuff fit.

I did briefly consider going ahead with narrowing it up and having room for the wheels (I'm a fan of the old styles) I want, but I don't want to deal with the problems that would cause over an appearance thing. It makes far more sense to keep the suspension stock and supported, and change the wheel appearance. My main thing is functionality, durability and performance, not looks. There are Corvette wheels I find acceptable, just not quite the look I wanted. I'll probably wind up with a 5 spoke mag similar to the wheels I'm using for the build.

What I really wanted, no real specs, but almost 50lbs according to US Mags:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/accc214248f334db106e64cc9dad0a35afcf1f11-1.jpg

What I was going to go with, 18x10, 5.74in backspace, 20.29lb:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/vn6152a1pngpngquality80fitboundsheightwi-1.jpg

[wfo guy]

That appears to be a Gen 2 compac. I have had several of them. In the summer, you need to run the fan on high or it will freeze over even at lower demands. I have made several trips with these units and after around 75 miles, the evaporator will freeze at low or medium speeds. If all you do is short trips, you won't have this problem. This is only an ac problem. I have visited with the Vintage Air techs on several occasions and have found out that is a downside of Gen 2 units. If you have space, you might consider a Gen 4 unit. I have a 2000 Dakota RT and the blend doors have lost their sealing sponges. I have yet to find a source for those parts. I may do what you are doing but I will look at the larger units to see if that's a good fit. I'm sure the waiting is tough for you. I hope somebody get's in gear to get your truck moving forward. Best wishes on your project. :)

[ryeguy2006a]

Great update!! Looks like a fun project. I'd like to build a frame someday.

[dontlifttoshift]

The wheel track is supposed to be taken at the wheel mounting surface.



Track width is traditionally measured from the center of one tire to the center of the other tire. As you have learned, that really isn't useful information unless you know wheel sizes and offsets. At that point you can math your way into the measurements that matter.

[Vimes]

That appears to be a Gen 2 compac. I have had several of them. In the summer, you need to run the fan on high or it will freeze over even at lower demands. I have made several trips with these units and after around 75 miles, the evaporator will freeze at low or medium speeds. If all you do is short trips, you won't have this problem. This is only an ac problem. I have visited with the Vintage Air techs on several occasions and have found out that is a downside of Gen 2 units. If you have space, you might consider a Gen 4 unit. I have a 2000 Dakota RT and the blend doors have lost their sealing sponges. I have yet to find a source for those parts. I may do what you are doing but I will look at the larger units to see if that's a good fit. I'm sure the waiting is tough for you. I hope somebody get's in gear to get your truck moving forward. Best wishes on your project. :)

On the sealing foam, you'll likely have to find a sheet of something similar and make your own. Amazon has some promising products, search "open cell foam weatherstrip sheet". A little tacking spray will hold it all together.

My unit is actually a Vintage Air 61005-VUX-A Vintage Air Gen-II Super Cooler. It has 4 dash vents, not 3, plus the defrost vents. I appreciate the warning on the Compac, it's actually what I traded in to get the Super back in 2021. I'd actually bought the Compac for an El Camino project about 25 years ago and never used it. It sat in the attic, forgotten, until this project came along. Have you heard anything about the Super unit having similar problems?

When the truck comes back and I get to installing the air I'll be working out a way to use air filters, and thanks to other advice on this board I will be installing it in a way to make it easy to remove for repairs. I had to replace the evaporator on my 2005 Dodge, after I worked on the air I discovered it had a pinhole leak, and that was a mess - required removing the steering wheel and the entire dash.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/72561005VUZA_L_b72d40b0083a44a5bc064449f-1.jpg


Track width is traditionally measured from the center of one tire to the center of the other tire. As you have learned, that really isn't useful information unless you know wheel sizes and offsets. At that point you can math your way into the measurements that matter.

Yeah, that was a whoopsie. :hmm: But, at least we figured it out before something was cut. :lmao:

[dontlifttoshift]

All the GENII units have that problem. Getting the capillary tube installed properly goes a long way in preventing freeze up. As noted earlier, turn the temperature warmer instead of turning down the fan speed. The only fool proof way is to hide the thermostat that controls the compressor and set it so it can't blow colder than about 42* under any circumstance.

The GENIV/V units are light years ahead of the GENII and I put them in everything I can.

[Vimes]

Thanks, I'll think about the Gen2 vs Gen5. A lot will depend upon how much room is behind the dash when the time comes. I plan on an aftermarket dash for it, most likely one of these two.

https://www.fiberwerx.com/collections/mid-size-dashes/products/fiberwerx-mid-size-oem-replacement-dash
https://www.fiberwerx.com/collections/mid-size-dashes/products/mid-size-navi-dash?variant=11631156559919

[Vimes]

All the GENII units have that problem. Getting the capillary tube installed properly goes a long way in preventing freeze up. As noted earlier, turn the temperature warmer instead of turning down the fan speed. The only fool proof way is to hide the thermostat that controls the compressor and set it so it can't blow colder than about 42* under any circumstance.

The GENIV/V units are light years ahead of the GENII and I put them in everything I can.

I believe I have found a generic solution to any HVAC system freezing up.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1249544712473/Honeywell-FPC-Product-Info.pdf

This is a simple switch that opens at 36F, then closes at 46F and it goes inline with the compressor relay wire. The Honeywell Trol-A-Temp Freeze Protection Control, Model FPC is 50-80 bucks, but it may be available for less, and there may be other brands.

I'm going to go with my Gen2 unit mainly because I've already got one sitting on a shelf in my garage. Plus, it's a couple of inches narrower than the Gen4/5 units I looked at of the same capacity so it'll tuck into the firewall closer. But, I do like the 3 button switch on the Gen4/5, and would go with it if I didn't already have a 2 on the shelf along with a plan to deal with the freeze-ups.

EDIT - I ordered one of these switches tonight. When it comes in I'll test it with a multimeter and an ice cube.

[dontlifttoshift]

You are going to hate that 10 degree swing in vent temperature.

The unit already has a temperature control switch, and it is adjustable. Get the capillary tube installed properly and it will all be fine as long as you never turn it below freezing.

[Vimes]

You are going to hate that 10 degree swing in vent temperature.

The unit already has a temperature control switch, and it is adjustable. Get the capillary tube installed properly and it will all be fine as long as you never turn it below freezing.

I plan on installing the capillary tube when the time comes, this will be like a hard limit switch on it that is inline with the thermostat wiring to the compressor. I can't count on being the only one who drives this, although for the first few years I will be. The temp swing was the tightest I was able to find and I wanted a way to protect the evaporator against freeze-ups. I'd rather the temp from the vents vary than the evaporator freeze up and not blow cold air at all or worse, be damaged. But, that's a worry for a long time from now.

================================================== =======================

In other news, I stopped by the shop today. Work progressed, but is currently stopped until I bring them a rear differential. They need the differential so they can figure out where to put the cross members in, and they may have to raise the tunnel to make it all fit. No pictures, not much has changed beyond making a few mounts and getting the rear rails extended out.

[Vimes]

Gen5 Camaro SS rear diff enroute. 3.27 rear ratio, should work well with my tire size.

edit - delivered to the shop. Probably won't be any real action until next year.

[Vimes]

A small change to my project - I found a takeout 392 with an 8HP transmission from a 2018 Challenger. The place selling it specializes in modern takeouts for older projects. It comes with the engine, trans, wiring, ECM, shifter, pedals, steering column and fuel tank. When I figured out the cost to go LS and piece it all together vs buying this, I couldn't say no. This will probably run me half to a third when adapters, aftermarket controllers and the rest are added in, then there's making it all happy to work together which never was guaranteed. This way, it already works together. The shop will make the correct mounting points and cross members, I get a driveshaft made and it's a done deal.

I don't like that I'm swapping an aluminum block for iron, but then I won't need the extra weight a turbo would add so I guess it'll be close to a wash. And, I can always pick up a rather pricey aluminum block later if it's a problem. I'll just need to find about 100 to 150HP to reach my target power level and that should be achievable with headers, a cam and a tune. I'm also retaining the MDS system. I've had two vehicles with that system on it and, as long as the oil is kept changed, it seems to work pretty well.

Interesting bit of math - CdA is an aerodynamic efficiency measurement that uses Cd and frontal area. The lower the number, the better, and is why just Cd is not the be-all and end all of it. A large vehicle with a low Cd will be less aerodynamic than a small vehicle with a higher Cd. My truck originally had a CdA of 9.73173775. I calculate that after changes, the new CdA will be 7.3582425. The Challenger that my drivetrain is originating from had a CdA of 8.556781042. Further, the Challenger weighed in at around 4300lbs while I'm expecting no more than 4000lbs and will be shooting for 3500lbs. The Challenger had a rated highway mileage of 25mpg, so with the correct parts and a tune I might actually hit my 30MPG steady state highway cruising goal. This last paragraph is, of course, all based on internet research. The proof will be actual results when I eventually get this on the road, but for now I'm hopeful.

[Vimes]

Went to the shop today. It was a mixed bag.

First the good - the engine arrived and it was as promised. It was on a pallet with a wooden frame around it. I'm glad I had it shipped straight there instead of to my house as I normally might. The engine was set up to run on the pallet and even had fuel in the tank. So, engine, transmission, exhaust up to the back of the trans, ECM, wiring harness (felt like 40lbs of wire) steering column, start button, shifter, and both pedals with sensors. It was a very complete swap kit. I bought it from Cleveland Parts & Perfomance, and the donor was a 2018 Challenger with 27,000 miles on it. Cost was about 14K and a bit shipped. Considering I was looking at just an engine running more than this, I couldn't pass it up even though it's an iron block so extra weight. This will save a ton of money and frustration even if I wind up having to rebuild it.

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Instrument cluster, wrapped up. I didn't want to remove it just yet.
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The rear is going to work fine, and is still a work in progress. This is the 2013 Camaro SS IRS differential. Unfortunately, the fuel tank plan isn't going to work. I wanted to do a saddle tank in front of the rear diff, but the frame rails and all will be in the way. I'll probably be putting it behind the rear diff, unless I come up with something after I get the truck back.
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Everything is still tacked up front because they ran into a problem, which I'll deal with next. But, it's looking like I will just need a 2 inch flare on the fenders. That will be decided later though, as the tires that are on there now are 275/40R18 and I think they're 18x9, while I will almost certainly be running 285/40R18s on 18x10s. 216202

My vision is coming together. I can see the bed on it, and it's looking like I'd hoped it will. The bed is just about the same length as the hood area. The distance from the cab for the front and rear wheels is about the same, and the overhangs will be about the same. It looks like it'll sit low, but it's being built to sit several inches off the ground. I don't want to screw around with having to creep over speed bumps, or try to get in and out of something that sits on the ground.
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Now for the problem, and I'm hoping for some advice. The front cradle is not going to work, and is a huge oversight on my part. The problem is that the Corvette wheels are so far forward that the engine sits behind them. The harmonic balancer is like an inch behind the steering rack. On my truck, the engine sits centered on the wheels. In order to put the engine in the same position that the Corvette engine is, the engine would come into the cabin 18 inches - think full size van with a doghouse over the engine. If they mount the engine where it has to go, the valve covers will be outside of the hood. There is only 16 inches from the steering rack to the firewall.
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The two ideas we have at the moment are:

- Build lower control arm mounts out of tubular steel and use the existing Corvette parts. They would install a cross member to replace the cradle. This would likely require spindles with steering arms that hang down lower, which are available.

- Use a Mustang II style front suspension. I'm not in favor of this one as it means chunky heavy steel parts, unless there's a way to use the Corvette parts from the hub out.

If anyone has any ideas on how to solve this problem I'd appreciate the direction even if we ultimately do not go that way.

[dontlifttoshift]

IF the crossmember and the rack are the only issues, leave everything else in place, build new crossmember after locating the engine and use the fox or SN95 rack that everyone uses with a dropped steering arm of your design or someone elses.

I would use this opportunity to narrow up the trackwidth in the front and you really should do the same in the rear. High offset wheels work in the front because the tie rod is close to vertical center with the hub. When you drop that down wheel clearance gets tighter and tighter.

[ryeguy2006a]

Looks like you are making some great progress! Love the update. I don't have any advise for the engine situation, but the shop seems to know what they are doing so a custom crossmember may be the way to go. Hopefully they could still use the stock control arms so it could save you some money but still mount to the chassis. Maybe between that and relocating the steering rack it will give enough space.

[wfo guy]

My 1st thought is to go back to c4 suspension. Flat Out Eng. is one supplier of crossmembers. However, progressive automotive makes a kit for c6 also. If you were to make a rear sump oil pan and raise the engine above the crossmember is an option. I don't like a raised center of gravity which I'm sure you don't either.

[Vimes]

Thanks for the suggestions. I sent them on to the builder. In addition, he's got a 2013 Charger coming into his repair side tomorrow. He's going to wander around underneath it with a tape measure while it's on the lift to see if the subframe might be adaptable. Currently however, my favored plan is the C5 control arms with the custom cross member.

Unfortunately, the measurements took into account using a rear sump.

On narrowing the track, I don't want to do that unless that's the only way this works. I kinda like the idea of a wide body conversion.

[dhutton]

I would take a look at the Detroit Speed universal front clip. I used one on my 57 Buick wagon. It’s a nice piece. No Limit Engineering has a front clip too. They are narrower track widths, around 60”.

Also curious why you can’t just raise the engine and push it forward. I have C5 cradles and suspension etc in my 56 Cameo and the engine sits very low in the engine bay. Lots of room to go higher. Have you ruled out using a rear sump oil pan.216216

[Vimes]

I would take a look at the Detroit Speed universal front clip. I used one on my 57 Buick wagon. It’s a nice piece. No Limit Engineering has a front clip too. They are narrower track widths, around 60”.

Also curious why you can’t just raise the engine and push it forward. I have C5 cradles and suspension etc in my 56 Cameo and the engine sits very low in the engine bay. Lots of room to go higher. Have you ruled out using a rear sump oil pan.216216

I'll take a look at them, thanks.

We were looking at it with the idea of using a rear sump oil pan. It also looks like you had more room in front of the firewall to work with than I do. Stock, the Dakota can handle a V8 but it puts the center of the engine just ahead of the front wheels. Your Cameo (and those are nice looking trucks) has more room to work with from the wheel centerline to the firewall. My firewall is practically at the wheel well opening.

He also just reported back that the Charger stuff won't work.

[dhutton]

I guess I should correct myself. The WMS of the DSE universal front clip is 60”, not the track width. Sorry.

[Vimes]

No worries.

I also forgot to mention, putting the engine where it should reside in relation to the firewall puts the front of the engine well past the front of the steering rack. I also asked about raising the body in relation to the frame. The rockers will already be 7 inches off the ground at ride height so raising the body in relation is not going to be an option. At this point, the only way I can see to use the Corvette cradle will be to stretch the fenders, and move the wheels forward.

[Vimes]

Update: The front cradle roadblock has been broken. The front cradle won't be used. He's going to do a custom K member, and this will let the engine go where it normally would if I were just doing an engine swap. Front vs rear oil sump is still up in the air although he thinks we can keep the factory front sump. Going with the K member means we can move the rack lower, and it will be between the K member and the oil pan. To correct bump steer, he'll be cutting the steer arms off the spindles and will make a set to bolt on. He's made them before so it's not uncharted territory.

[Vimes]

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Tiny update - cradle is out, K-member is tacked in. They are waiting on more steel for this now as they decided that it needed a larger diameter DOM tube for the LCA mounts. They said this one would work and would be plenty strong enough, but with the larger tube the alignment adjusters will fit better. While it's a lot cleaner looking under there than the Vette cradle was, they said it'll weigh about the same as the cradle. I was hoping it would be lighter, but in some areas stronger is better. This is one of them.

Sadly, one of the spots that I won't be saving money is the fuel tank. I was hoping the Challenger saddle tank might fit up in there but nope, no go. If I were to try a saddle tank in the space available I MIGHT manage a 2 gallon tank with one gallon on each side of the driveshaft. I'll have to figure something else out instead now and that can't happen until the truck comes home.

[Vimes]

Minor update - the larger tube K-member is being built. I like the larger diameter piping even if it is going to add weight. The original piping looked a little small, this looks more correct. Didn't bother with pics. Moving right along, just not very quickly.

[ryeguy2006a]

Glad to hear the project is progressing! We always love pictures though. :)

[Vimes]

Small update - the former Camaro SS rear diff now has mounts that are tacked in and ready to be welded. I had thought about doing a Dodge unit just to keep it "in the family" but those only come with 3.08s (auto) or 3.92s (stick) and what I need is more like 3.23 to 3.45 depending on what I wind up going with for tire diameter. This one is a 3.23 The welder is on vacation so no action right now. There will also be some reinforcements added that are ready to be installed but not in the pictures.

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[Vimes]

A more substantial update - the shop made some decent progress on it over the last week or so. The new K-member has been fabbed up but not permanent yet as they will need to rejigger it a bit to accommodate the engine. While the weight is important, I'm liking the larger tubing they used for it over the initial attempt. The shop said the smaller tubing would have worked fine for handing the weight and power, but the larger tubing is easier to mount the suspension to. I don't mind extra weight for actual benefit, and I see this as a benefit.

They're ordering a set of aftermarket engine mounts, as the factory used these giant fluid filled can things. They said they could use the factory ones if I really wanted but it would not be very tidy looking and, of course, adds all that weight. I checked, and the factory mounts are like 10-15lbs to a side vs about 4lbs to a side for the aftermarket mounts. They'll also need to fab up a cross member for the transmission, then they can do the floorpan mods as the whole thing will be sitting up a bit higher into the truck than the factory setup.

The guy doing the work said it shouldn't be too much longer before they'll be ready for powder coating. I'll be having it done in something durable, not pretty, as this is going to be a daily driver when it's done and not a show queen. 'm pretty happy with how it's coming along, just wish it had come along a couple of years sooner.

Silver lining though, I've pretty much worked out exactly what I want to do with it once it's back home.

[Vimes]

Having problems getting pics to load today.
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[ryeguy2006a]

Really cool update! Looks like there should be plenty of room now.

[Vimes]

Minor update - picked up a fiberglass bed cover today. These things are impossible to find for my truck. I've been looking for months for one of these things. No pics right now, it's really nothing to look at right now. If you have a newer truck and want a hard cover, get it while you can since they seem to stop making them after X number of years.

The plan is to make some modifications to it because it's not quite what I want, then use it to make molds and make one that is what I want. I'm planning on making it out of carbon fiber for weight, not appearance, so it should be quite a bit lighter than that chopped fiberglass one is. It'll also be a permanent mount, not a bed rail thing. I'll probably try using a set of hood hinges to get a little more lift out of it than you get with a normal bed cover. Making something like this will be a new adventure for me, but won't start until I have the truck back in my own shop. If it works out, I might try making other parts for it. This will be a year or two down the road though.

[Vimes]

Minor update. Progress is slow, but continuing. The shop has had to direct more manpower to the repair side due to workload and not people not wanting to work for a change. The welder said he'd have it sitting on its wheels inside a week if he could be left alone with it. Probably just as well as I'm working my property pretty hard right now. It's getting to be too crowded where I live so I'm working on getting ready to sell my house and move deeper out into the sticks.

Anyway, I'm a lot happier with the heavier bars up front. Similar reinforcement will be going in the back.

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[Vimes]

I have a substantial update this time - the truck is sitting on its tires! There's still more work to be done, but they're finally making some real progress. Once they finish it up, everything gets pulled off and the frame will be cleaned up and powdercoated. The powdercoating will be for durability, not show, because this truck will be driven hard.

It's also looking exactly like I expected it to, although it is a little lower than I expected it to be. I specced 4-5 inches of clearance underneath for speed bumps. If need be I can fiddle with it when it's closer to completion to get it up a bit higher. The missing bed makes the rear look stubby, but with the bed and the front clip on it'll be balanced - more or less 5ft length for the bed, 5ft for the cab and 5ft for the front. The front clip/bed length being close to equal is what makes the short wide such an attractive truck, and I'm getting this with the extended cab I need with my height.

This should also show exacly why the Corvette front cradle would not work. It's more clear now how close the front wheels are to the cab, and how low down the cab is in relation. The fabricated cross member lets the engine sit in line with the front wheels like it's supposed to.

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[ryeguy2006a]

Huge congrats!! Will they be adding anymore bracing between the lower control arms?

[dhutton]

Huge congrats!! Will they be adding anymore bracing between the lower control arms?
I was thinking the same thing. It looks like a lightweight drag racing setup currently. But then again I am not a mechanical engineer. :)

[Vimes]

Yes, more bracing will be going in. The shop has been doing both dedicated drag frames and street frames for years, and the round tubing they're using on mine is almost twice as large in diameter as the drag setups. I told them that this will be a daily driver, that I will occasionally track at a pro-touring event although I'll just do that with it once. I'll also be hitting a drag strip with it just to get times - I don't expect it to be a great drag racer, but ya still gotta have that time slip.

Despite the jump in progress, this is far from done. The engine and transmission will need to be installed to see where additional bracing needs to go. The transmission tunnel will likely have to be cut out all the way to the rear wall of the cab to make room for the driveshaft as the engine and trans will be sitting higher inside the cab than the factory stuff. Once the cross members are figured out, he'll start adding some triangulation bracing.

Of course, I definitely appreciate the criticisms and advice. I'd rather hear them now than after it's done even if I ultimately decide to go against them, like the 2x4 vs 2x6 debate. I was won over on 2x6 until I saw 2x5 C-channel on the factory frame, with a cargo capacity of 2400lbs :).