Fuel line recommendations...

[roguegeek]

Got a second-gen Camaro with full Speedtech Extreme suspension, LS427/570, T56, Rick's Tanks Restomod with ZL1 fuel pump, and VaporWorx PressureWorx ZL1/Universal PWM Fuel Module Controller (https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pwzl13b-tm/). Gotta work out fuel lines. I spent some time on the phone with Carl from VaporWorx, which turned out to be an invaluable call, and he gave me some great recommendations. I'm just looking to get the hive mind's feedback as well. I was recommended hard lines all through the middle with flexible lines on the front and back. I spoke with Speedtech as well and they do complete flexible lines through a lot of their cars. Some of the vendors I was recommended were Fragola, Goodridge, Classic Tube, and Pegasus.

At this point, the only thing I know is I'm using AN6 lines. I like the idea of bending my own hard lines, but I also like the idea of an easy install with flexible lines. I need to figure out if I'm doing flexible lines entirely or a combination of flexible and hard lines. What are you guys doing out there? Which products are you using for your tubes and fittings? What else do I need to take into consideration? Any and all feedback is very much welcomed.

Thank you!

[Jonathonar89]

I’m in the same spot as you. I actually just ordered my fuel system from Rodney at Suspension Geek this week. Although he’s a suspension business, he is also a Holley dealer.

I ended up going 3/8” aluminum line which is equivalent to 6AN.

[dhutton]

I use 3/8 nicopp hardline. For the flex I use Holley Vaporguard hose and fittings. Not a fan of Teflon lined braided hose.

Don

[roguegeek]

I use 3/8 nicopp hardline. For the flex I use Holley Vaporguard hose and fittings. Not a fan of Teflon lined braided hose.

Don
I’ll look into nicopp as an option. Teflon-lined braided hoses have been a consistent recommendation, if I was to go flexible. Why aren’t you a fan?

[roguegeek]

I’m in the same spot as you. I actually just ordered my fuel system from Rodney at Suspension Geek this week. Although he’s a suspension business, he is also a Holley dealer.

I ended up going 3/8” aluminum line which is equivalent to 6AN.
Was it a pre-bent kit with fittings or was it more of a raw materials thing and you’re bending your own?

[dhutton]

I’ll put Nicopp on the list to check out. Teflon-lined braided hoses have been a consistent recommendation, if I was to go flexible. Why aren’t you a fan?
Its stiff and kinks easily and I don’t care for the look. Vaporguard has a nice OEM look and black fittings. It’s also easy to assemble.

Don

[parsonsj]

It's stiff and kinks easily and I don’t care for the lookThis stuff? It's anything but stiff :) :

185818

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnKeCBhDPARIsAFDTLTJVoeBJ1P-g_iNy5WSUv8J3SW6sGKyPwErrizUCvGwajx_d9CdSEjkaAomSE ALw_wcB

[joeko23]

I used nicopp 3/8” line along the frame front to back. Then used the vaporguard hose and their fittings to connect to the hardline. Nicopp is pretty easy to use and it’s cheap. I got 25’ from Amazon for $50. I would recommend since it’s your first time making lines (like me) is to order some 3/16” nicopp line to make a template. The 3/16” line is dirt cheap on Amazon I’m talking under $20!

The reason I recommend making a template is because I ran my line then didn’t like it so I bent it back, ruined it so instead of spending $50 mistake your at $20. Also the 3/16” line is much smaller so it’s way easier to work with. In the end you’ll have a great template for the 3/8” line. I used about 10’ of the 3/8” line for fuel.

The rest I’m using to run trans fluid to the radiator/cooler. For trans fluid cooler lines I’m also using the same 3/8” nicopp lines along the frame rails then using the Mr. Gasket push on hose with their fittings for connecting from trans to hardline then hardline to radiator.

[dhutton]

This stuff? It's anything but stiff :) :

185818

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnKeCBhDPARIsAFDTLTJVoeBJ1P-g_iNy5WSUv8J3SW6sGKyPwErrizUCvGwajx_d9CdSEjkaAomSE ALw_wcB

Touché..... A little pricey for the likes of me. I’ll stick with the Vaporguard.

Don

[Tsaints1115]

Flex front to rear on my Cougar.

[Lonnies Performance]

I would be careful with the aluminum line... most is not rated for the 58psi rated fuel pressure.

Also 3/8" is marginally small. I would use -8 line.

My vote is stainless braided Teflon. Easy to route, indefinite life span, impervious to chemicals & will never rust.

[Jonathonar89]

I would be careful with the aluminum line... most is not rated for the 58psi rated fuel pressure.

Also 3/8" is marginally small. I would use -8 line.

My vote is stainless braided Teflon. Easy to route, indefinite life span, impervious to chemicals & will never rust.

Earl’s low-pressure aluminum lines are rated to 100psi and not that expensive.

[Jonathonar89]

Was it a pre-bent kit with fittings or was it more of a raw materials thing and you’re bending your own?

Making my own bends.

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hardline/aluminum_tubing/parts/120034ERL

[roguegeek]

I used nicopp 3/8” line along the frame front to back. Then used the vaporguard hose and their fittings to connect to the hardline. Nicopp is pretty easy to use and it’s cheap. I got 25’ from Amazon for $50. I would recommend since it’s your first time making lines (like me) is to order some 3/16” nicopp line to make a template. The 3/16” line is dirt cheap on Amazon I’m talking under $20!
I really like the idea of bending all of my lines. If I decide to that, I really like this idea of building a template from smaller/cheaper material first. Looks like a cheap way to gain hands on experience.

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Flex front to rear on my Cougar.
Which lines and fittings did you use?

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My vote is stainless braided Teflon. Easy to route, indefinite life span, impervious to chemicals & will never rust.
Any particular brand for the lines and fittings?

[roguegeek]

Question on hard lines. There's seems to be a handful of popular materials out there. Steel, stainless-steel, aluminum, nicopp. Other than the obvious strength differences between them, why would one be preferred over the other? Do any of them have certain fuel restrictions?

[grease]

I bought a classic tube 3/8” metal fuel line and used tube to AN adapters to push lock hose for my connections at the tank and engine. Worked great! The only bend I had to make was in the engine compartment. I bent the line at the stock frame rail connection to route up behind the engine,to better conceal the line.

[andrewb70]

Question on hard lines. There's seems to be a handful of popular materials out there. Steel, stainless-steel, aluminum, nicopp. Other than the obvious strength differences between them, why would one be preferred over the other? Do any of them have certain fuel restrictions?

I wouldn't use aluminum with any fuel that contains ethanol. I like NiCopp because it is easy to bend and flare and is non-corrosive. I also like how looks.

Andrew

[slimjim]

Has anyone considered running the PTFE line for hotrodfuelhose? looks like an easy option

[Tsaints1115]

Which lines and fittings did you use?



Russell ProFlex and Russell and Earl's fittings.

[parsonsj]

Steel, stainless-steel, aluminum, nicopp. Other than the obvious strength differences between them, why would one be preferred over the other? Do any of them have certain fuel restrictions?I've used all those materials. All will work fine.


I prefer nicopp: it's easy to work, and bends and flares easily. It comes in rolls, so you have to work a bit to make the straight sections "straight". Still, I don't use anything else anymore.
Aluminum comes in several alloys and stiffness, from the completely annealed rolls you get from Summit/Jegs to the very stiff sticks you can get from McMaster-Carr. I've had success with all of them, and prefer to start with the straight versions.
Steel rusts, so you need to paint it or coat it after it's been bent to shape.
Stainless looks nice but is a real bitch to flare, and often cracks at the flares when used for brake lines. It tends to seep through flares in general too.

[roguegeek]

I wouldn't use aluminum with any fuel that contains ethanol. I like NiCopp because it is easy to bend and flare and is non-corrosive. I also like how looks.

Andrew

I've used all those materials. All will work fine.


I prefer nicopp: it's easy to work, and bends and flares easily. It comes in rolls, so you have to work a bit to make the straight sections "straight". Still, I don't use anything else anymore.
Aluminum comes in several alloys and stiffness, from the completely annealed rolls you get from Summit/Jegs to the very stiff sticks you can get from McMaster-Carr. I've had success with all of them, and prefer to start with the straight versions.
Steel rusts, so you need to paint it or coat it after it's been bent to shape.
Stainless looks nice but is a real bitch to flare, and often cracks at the flares when used for brake lines. It tends to seep through flares in general too.

Very nice comparison here. Thank you.

With hard tubing, do you have to considering linings or is that not a thing with hard tubing? Is it all just bare material?

[andrewb70]

It's just bare metal.

[anguilla1980]

Has anyone considered running the PTFE line for hotrodfuelhose? looks like an easy option

I have, found it to be nearly identical to the Holley stuff. Sometimes they have some good discount codes that make it worth it.

[BonzoHansen]

With aluminum, or even ni-comp, do you guys use rockguard or such to protect it?

[andrewb70]

With aluminum, or even ni-comp, do you guys use rockguard or such to protect it?

I don't, but it's probably not a bad idea.

[dhutton]

With aluminum, or even ni-comp, do you guys use rockguard or such to protect it?
I have used rock guard in the same locations as the factory.

Don

[roguegeek]

Picked up 20' of nicopp from Amazon. Cheap. Smaller than I'll eventually use, so easier to bend. Was less than $20. Did so just to practice and start seeing if I could build a template for around the car. Could use some help on tools. I'm ok spending money on good tools if I'm going to get use out of them forever. What tube benders and flaring tools are you guys using?

[andrewb70]

Picked up 20' of nicopp from Amazon. Cheap. Smaller than I'll eventually use, so easier to bend. Was less than $20. Did so just to practice and start seeing if I could build a template for around the car. Could use some help on tools. I'm ok spending money on good tools if I'm going to get use out of them forever. What tube benders and flaring tools are you guys using?

I just got an Earl's flaring tool. I believe the same kind is sold by various companies. Mine has dies for both 37 degree AN single flares and 45 degree SAE double flares. Pretty excited about using it.

Andrew

[joeko23]

This is what I got. Different companies make this type of tool but they all look the same and perform the same. Like I said before. It was my first time making brake lines and fuel lines and I have zero leaks. The way this tool is designed there’s no if’s ands or buts about the flares, you flare it once and it’s perfect every time. The other cheap tools you can crank on the handle maybe a little more or maybe you didn’t crank it enough etc. also this one has the dyes for 45 double fare and 37 single and bubble. It’s the only flare tool you’ll ever need.

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Professional-herramienta-escupa-fuego-grados/dp/B01HOXT84Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=37%20flare%20tool&language=en_US&qid=1615643513&sprefix=37%20flare%20tool&sr=8-4

For tubing benders I used this. The nicopp is very easy to bend and most bends you’ll actually be making by hand because they will be soft bends. But in case you need a tight radius 90 or 180 you’ll definitely need the tool.

https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender-Degrees-Bending-Aluminum/dp/B07S8DQBNL/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=tubing+bender&qid=1615643864&sprefix=tubing+&sr=8-6

For rock guards I just put it on all the brake lines and fuel lines. It’s cheap and can’t hurt right? I got the stainless versions. Here’s links

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01IRQXJDS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=brake+line+rock+guard+3%2F16&qid=1615644297&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01N59WJ96/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=brake+line+rock+guard+3%2F8+stainless&qid=1615644379&sr=8-3

Here’s the clamps I bought for brake lines and fuel lines. If your going to use the rock guard then upsize the clamps from 3/16 to 1/4 and from 3/8 to 1/2.

https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainless-Cushioned-Insulated-Installation/dp/B01IT43WTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=lokman%2Bclamps&qid=1615644583&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

I try to get EVERYTHING from Amazon that way if I don’t like it or doesn’t fit or doesn’t function or feel/looks poor quality I can return it no questions asked for free!

[slimjim]

I try to get EVERYTHING from Amazon that way if I don’t like it or doesn’t fit or doesn’t function or feel/looks poor quality I can return it no questions asked for free!

I try to do the same as much as possible. I wish they stocked more

[andrewb70]

I have also used the Rigid 377 (https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbnhyUGx4cXlfQndyUGFtMUZTVkdrZH l6dnRwd3xBQ3Jtc0tuNXVuOC00SEFBN2NvSE9xc1hUbmYtLUhL ZGJGT0E4dUh6SWtobUs1cVB3YjE1RGhzZlhDc0huaHB2amNGME 0taDJHWURZQ2hDODF0dmxRTDRGa1VsUU1fTGdGeEN5dkpoT1Ju b3J5azhFLXYwS0txTQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F3ewXcps) 37 degree flaring tool and it works great.

Andrew

[anguilla1980]

Ditto, I have the Ridgid tool for both 45 and 37 degree.

[roguegeek]

I just got an Earl's flaring tool. I believe the same kind is sold by various companies. Mine has dies for both 37 degree AN single flares and 45 degree SAE double flares. Pretty excited about using it.

Andrew
That certainly looks like a nice tool, but man, that price. Buy once, cry once, right?

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This is what I got. Different companies make this type of tool but they all look the same and perform the same. Like I said before. It was my first time making brake lines and fuel lines and I have zero leaks. The way this tool is designed there’s no if’s ands or buts about the flares, you flare it once and it’s perfect every time. The other cheap tools you can crank on the handle maybe a little more or maybe you didn’t crank it enough etc. also this one has the dyes for 45 double fare and 37 single and bubble. It’s the only flare tool you’ll ever need.

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Professional-herramienta-escupa-fuego-grados/dp/B01HOXT84Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=37%20flare%20tool&language=en_US&qid=1615643513&sprefix=37%20flare%20tool&sr=8-4

For tubing benders I used this. The nicopp is very easy to bend and most bends you’ll actually be making by hand because they will be soft bends. But in case you need a tight radius 90 or 180 you’ll definitely need the tool.

https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender-Degrees-Bending-Aluminum/dp/B07S8DQBNL/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=tubing+bender&qid=1615643864&sprefix=tubing+&sr=8-6

For rock guards I just put it on all the brake lines and fuel lines. It’s cheap and can’t hurt right? I got the stainless versions. Here’s links

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01IRQXJDS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=brake+line+rock+guard+3%2F16&qid=1615644297&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01N59WJ96/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=brake+line+rock+guard+3%2F8+stainless&qid=1615644379&sr=8-3

Here’s the clamps I bought for brake lines and fuel lines. If your going to use the rock guard then upsize the clamps from 3/16 to 1/4 and from 3/8 to 1/2.

https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainless-Cushioned-Insulated-Installation/dp/B01IT43WTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=lokman%2Bclamps&qid=1615644583&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

I try to get EVERYTHING from Amazon that way if I don’t like it or doesn’t fit or doesn’t function or feel/looks poor quality I can return it no questions asked for free!
These are all super helpful. Yeah, I definitely like to try to get what I can from Amazon. The flaring tool's price is a lot easier on the wallet over the Earl's.

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I have also used the Rigid 377 (https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbnhyUGx4cXlfQndyUGFtMUZTVkdrZH l6dnRwd3xBQ3Jtc0tuNXVuOC00SEFBN2NvSE9xc1hUbmYtLUhL ZGJGT0E4dUh6SWtobUs1cVB3YjE1RGhzZlhDc0huaHB2amNGME 0taDJHWURZQ2hDODF0dmxRTDRGa1VsUU1fTGdGeEN5dkpoT1Ju b3J5azhFLXYwS0txTQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F3ewXcps) 37 degree flaring tool and it works great.

Andrew
Looks like a nice tool that will do the job. Price is good too. I'm weighing this vs the TGR listed above. The TGR could be overkill since I don't think I'll be using 45 degree flares anywhere, although I could be wrong about that.

[roguegeek]

Any more suggestions out there for benders and tube cutters? I got a recommendation for the Imperial Tools tube benders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007J9FWSA/). I'll probably grab that and the basic Ridgid tube cutter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDGNCU/) there isn't something drastically better I should be grabbing.

[andrewb70]

All of your brakes will be 45 SAE double flares.

[roguegeek]

All of your brakes will be 45 SAE double flares.
Ok, well that makes the value of those tools immediate go up for me. Thank you for pointing this out.

[roguegeek]

Ordered the TGR Flaring Tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOXT84Y), Imperial Tool Tube Bender (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007J9FWSA), and Ridgid Tube Cutter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDGNCU). Thanks for help on this.

[joeko23]

You’ll love the TGR flare tool. Like I said your flares will be 100% and leak free! If you don’t like it return it after you use it. LOL

[roguegeek]

Gonna ask an off-topic question here just to see if I can save myself (and all of you) from yet another post of mine. I'm playing with the routing of the fuel lines right now. Obviously, there's places where I must use fitments, but is it good practice to try and make single longer hard tube going from back to front or is it actually good to use some fitments here and there? Maybe where there's tighter turns that the bending tool can't make? I guess I'm looking for overall good practices to use when mocking up these lines.

[Jonathonar89]

I wouldn't use aluminum with any fuel that contains ethanol. I like NiCopp because it is easy to bend and flare and is non-corrosive. I also like how looks.

Andrew


There's a lot of conflicting information on this if you poke your head around with Ethanol. Some people say it's the worst corrosive thing ever and others swear by it with no claimed issues at all.

For those who may be worried about ethanol, brands like Lucas and Sta-Bil offer fuel treatment/conditioner and stabilizers for storage.

[dhutton]

Gonna ask an off-topic question here just to see if I can save myself (and all of you) from yet another post of mine. I'm playing with the routing of the fuel lines right now. Obviously, there's places where I must use fitments, but is it good practice to try and make single longer hard tube going from back to front or is it actually good to use some fitments here and there? Maybe where there's tighter turns that the bending tool can't make? I guess I'm looking for overall good practices to use when mocking up these lines.
Generally speaking your bends are too tight if you are adding fittings to make them. I use one continuous length with no bends tighter than I can make with my tubing bender. Tight bends can cause a pressure drop.

Don

[JohnUlaszek]

There's a lot of conflicting information on this if you poke your head around with Ethanol. Some people say it's the worst corrosive thing ever and others swear by it with no claimed issues at all.

For those who may be worried about ethanol, brands like Lucas and Sta-Bil offer fuel treatment/conditioner and stabilizers for storage.

There’s a reason new cars are no longer equipped with aluminum fuel rails.

[Lonnies Performance]

And they typically come with nylon/plastic fuel lines instead of metal.

[Jonathonar89]

There’s a reason new cars are no longer equipped with aluminum fuel rails.

This can be said about many things such as manufacturers switching to DBW, decline of manual transmission vehicles and now eliminating gasoline engines from production.

[roguegeek]

Generally speaking your bends are too tight if you are adding fittings to make them. I use one continuous length with no bends tighter than I can make with my tubing bender. Tight bends can cause a pressure drop.

Don
Gotcha. This makes sense.

[roguegeek]

I’m guessing that since people have been doing this forever, there’s a generally accepted route from the back to the front on these cars? Like all fuel line run up the driver’s side or something like that? Again, I’m just trying to make sure I’m using common practices.

[Jonathonar89]

I’m guessing that since people have been doing this forever, there’s a generally accepted route from the back to the front on these cars? Like all fuel line run up the driver’s side or something like that? Again, I’m just trying to make sure I’m using common practices.


Follow the factory line routing. Hard line on the body/frame....soft line between gas tank to body, body to frame and frame to engine.

- - - Updated - - -


I’m guessing that since people have been doing this forever, there’s a generally accepted route from the back to the front on these cars? Like all fuel line run up the driver’s side or something like that? Again, I’m just trying to make sure I’m using common practices.


Follow the factory line routing. Hard line on the body/frame....soft line between gas tank to body, body to frame and frame to engine.

[roguegeek]

Follow the factory line routing. Hard line on the body/frame....soft line between gas tank to body, body to frame and frame to engine.

Ok. This helps. Everything down there has been stripped off, so I’ll have to go digging around for a diagram that shows where it all sat before. Thanks.

[roguegeek]

Follow the factory line routing. Hard line on the body/frame....soft line between gas tank to body, body to frame and frame to engine.
Ok. So some quick searches and I was able to find the factory routing (https://nastyz28.com/tech/e-fuelsys.jpg). Seems simple enough. At some point, I would need to route the line to the driver's side to access the fuel rail on the LS427 as opposed to the original carb access from the passenger side. When/where do people usually make that deviation from the factory route?

[dhutton]

Ok. So some quick searches and I was able to find the factory routing (https://nastyz28.com/tech/e-fuelsys.jpg). Seems simple enough. At some point, I would need to route the line to the driver's side to access the fuel rail on the LS427 as opposed to the original carb access from the passenger side. When/where do people usually make that deviation from the factory route?
Most factory fuel rails can be flipped to put the inlet on the passenger side.

Don

[andrewb70]

Most factory fuel rails can be flipped to put the inlet on the passenger side.

Don

This would be true for his engine.

Andrew

[Motobrewmaster]

I ran 3/8" NiCopp hard line following the OEM routing up the Pass side up to the motor mount. Flex lines from tank to hard line and from engine mount area to flipped fuel rail. Note: My engine compartment is busy due to being a dry sump setup.

[roguegeek]

Most factory fuel rails can be flipped to put the inlet on the passenger side.

Don

This would be true for his engine.

Andrew
Don, Andrew, thanks again for the clarification. So I'm gathering most run the fuel lines up the factory route and do flip their rails? This would be a common setup?

[roguegeek]

I ran 3/8" NiCopp hard line following the OEM routing up the Pass side up to the motor mount. Flex lines from tank to hard line and from engine mount area to flipped fuel rail. Note: My engine compartment is busy due to being a dry sump setup.
This description and included visual is super helpful. Thank you, kindly!

[andrewb70]

Don, Andrew, thanks again for the clarification. So I'm gathering most run the fuel lines up the factory route and do flip their rails? This would be a common setup?

People do whatever makes sense for their particular build. The feed line on my GTO is on the passenger side. I used a pre-bent 1/2" line that I got from one of the popular companies. I don't remember which, since it was 20 years ago.

The hard line terminates in the front, about where the firewall starts. From there I run a PTFE hose and AN fittings up to the rail, which is flipped on my engine. You will need an adapter on the fuel rail for the AN fitting.

This one works well and doesn't require any special tools:
https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/fuel_system_components/fuel_rail_adapters_and_hose_ends/parts/751166ERL

This one is more robust and has a secondary retainer clip (which I like), but needs a GM quick disconnect tool (available anywhere):
https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/adapters/carburetor_-_power_steering_-_fuel_pump_-_fuel_injection_adapters/quick_connects/parts/AT991966ERL


Andrew

[joeko23]

Here’s how I ran my lines for a 69 Camaro pics are rear to front. I haven’t done the flex lines yet.

186026186027186028

[roguegeek]

Here’s how I ran my lines for a 69 Camaro pics are rear to front. I haven’t done the flex lines yet.
That looks good. I'm hoping mine come out that nice. So where your hardline has ended on the firewall, you're going to come straight up with the flex line and connect to your fuel rail coming from the back? Or you're going to keep going forward from the hard line and go up towards your fuel rail?

[roguegeek]

People do whatever makes sense for their particular build. The feed line on my GTO is on the passenger side. I used a pre-bent 1/2" line that I got from one of the popular companies. I don't remember which, since it was 20 years ago.

The hard line terminates in the front, about where the firewall starts. From there I run a PTFE hose and AN fittings up to the rail, which is flipped on my engine. You will need an adapter on the fuel rail for the AN fitting.
This is helpful. It has me thinking how far I should take the hardline in the front. My initial thought was to take it anywhere it's touching the body all the way up to the top of the firewall, but now I'm thinking terminating towards the bottom of the firewall will leave me more flexibility to re-route should I ever do some sort of major reconfiguration of the engine bay (like a dry sump or something).

[joeko23]

It wasn’t very hard and you can see it’s just some soft bends. I only used the tool to make one 90 bend when turning from frame rail to firewall. Also the stone guard really makes it look perfect because it conceals the fact that the hard line is not 100% straight. I don’t have a tube straightener and honestly you don’t need it as can be seen by the pics. The nicopp line comes in a roll. I just put the roll on the floor and push it straight against the floor. Comes out pretty straight.

Yes I plan to route the flex line to the rear passenger side fuel rail. I think there’s maybe 18” of flex line at the front and maybe 12” at the rear. Should look nice and it’s pretty well hidden.

[andrewb70]

Another thing that you want to plan for is how you will mount the fuel pressure transducer. Here is the fitting that I used with the Cougar:

https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/167.jpg

You don't want to mount that fitting on the rail (or on the engine) because the sensors are fairly susceptible to vibrations and mounting them on the engine shortens the life of the sensor.

Here is how I terminated the fuel line in the engine compartment:

https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/386.jpg

Then the fitting above attached to the fuel like at the fender and a flex line goes to the fuel rail.

I was going through my Cougar build to find these pictures, and as I was going through, I saw many posts that I think will benefit you. You should read the whole build:

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/109464-1967-Cougar-build-(over-700-pictures-and-videos)

There are almost 1000 pictures posted.

Andrew

[Motobrewmaster]

One thing to keep in mind is how much flex you allow for in the connection from hard line to the fuel rail of the engine. This is the reason I located mine near the engine mount area. The reason I choose this is that this is the pivot point of the engine and does not move much in this area. The angular movement will be less from there to the fuel rail. This is why the original fuel lines ran to this area for the flex connection to the original location of the fuel pump. My car is a dry sump setup and there was room for me to locate it in that area.

That said I am not running A/C which typically is located in the same area. Bottom line (sorry for the pun) is to consider how much flex, heat and accessibility you have. Weigh these parameters and make the best combination that works for your situation. It is all part of the build and all the little things add together in the end.

Cheers, Steve

[joeko23]

Andrew, he said he ordered the VaporWorx PWM kit, for that kit, it requires the fuel pressure sensor to be mounted as close to the fuel pump as possible. Like in this pic from VaporWorx.186049

[andrewb70]

Yes, but it is still a good idea to monitor fuel pressure close to the fuel rail, since he is planning on Holley EFI.

[joeko23]

Oh I see. Sorry bout that. You right!

[roguegeek]

I'm pretty happy with the template I've been mocking up with the 1/4" nicopp. Easier that I thought it would be. Just a couple more decisions to make and I think I can start making the actual 3/8" line. Question on line protection. Is there any disadvantage to using some sort of rock guard? Can anyone point me to a decent one, preferably on Amazon? Also, can anyone point me towards line mounts that would work with bare 3/8" hard tube and rock guarded 3/8" hard tube? Everything I'm finding doesn't seem to have rubber dampeners on them and I'm guessing going without would be bad news. I'm really trying to put a lot of effort towards cutting out any rattles or creeks.

[dhutton]

I'm pretty happy with the template I've been mocking up with the 1/4" nicopp. Easier that I thought it would be. Just a couple more decisions to make and I think I can start making the actual 3/8" line. Question on line protection. Is there any disadvantage to using some sort of rock guard? Can anyone point me to a decent one, preferably on Amazon? Also, can anyone point me towards line mounts that would work with bare 3/8" hard tube and rock guarded 3/8" hard tube? Everything I'm finding doesn't seem to have rubber dampeners on them and I'm guessing going without would be bad news. I'm really trying to put a lot of effort towards cutting out any rattles or creeks.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01N59WJ96/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=Stainless+rock+guard&qid=1616276065&sr=8-23

Don

[roguegeek]

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01N59WJ96/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=Stainless+rock+guard&qid=1616276065&sr=8-23

Don
Perfect. Thank you.

[joeko23]

Get the 1/2” for 3/8” line with rock guard.

https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainless-Cushioned-Insulated-Installation/dp/B01IT43WTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=lokman%2Bclamps&qid=1615644583&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

[roguegeek]

Get the 1/2” for 3/8” line with rock guard.

https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainless-Cushioned-Insulated-Installation/dp/B01IT43WTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=lokman%2Bclamps&qid=1615644583&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1
Sweet. Thank you very much. Should fit it pretty snug then?