1970 GTO Version 3.0 [Archive]

andrewb70

12-18-2020, 11:52 AM

Today I decided to look at some of the new parts in more detail. This is going to turn into the Holley Twelve Days of Christmas.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/18/GTOV3-003.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/18/GTOV3-004.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/18/GTOV3-005.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/18/GTOV3-006.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/18/GTOV3-007.md.jpg

I really like the red valve covers. They are actually more red than the pictures show and I think they will match the color of the car fairly closely. I am not a fan of having everything on the engine be color matched. I think it looks more interesting to detail the engine in such a way that the mechanical functionality is highlighted by the overall design.

The valve covers add a little extra height which will make the engine look a little bigger in the huge engine bay. They also allow the coils to be mounted directly to the valve covers, which eliminates the extra coil mounting brackets.

Andrew

csouth

12-18-2020, 06:50 PM

That's a nice pile of parts.... I know i spied an engine lift plate, so something is going on....lol

64G-lark

12-18-2020, 07:58 PM

Look forward to seeing your upgrades Andrew.

thumper877

12-19-2020, 05:34 AM

Those valve covers would look good on my car hint hint

andrewb70

12-19-2020, 09:00 AM

Those valve covers would look good on my car hint hint

They are on sale :-)

https://www.holley.com/products/accessories/valve_covers/parts/241-113

Andrew

andrewb70

12-19-2020, 09:06 AM

Twelve Days of Holley Christmas continues....

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/19/GTOV3-008.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/19/GTOV3-009.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/19/GTOV3-010.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/19/GTOV3-011.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/19/GTOV3-012.md.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/19/GTOV3-013.md.jpg

This is the Holley 302-3 pan. It has the extra low clearance in the front so that when being installed in a GM A-body the inner tie rods clear the pan. The AutoKraft pan that I used on my LS swap back in 2008 is much thicker in the front and the inner tie rods hit when at full turn. This isn't generally a problem, but it is certainly annoying.

The 302-3 also has the extra clearance for a 4" stroke crank, as well as provisions on both sides for turbo oil drain back. Very cleaver design and beautifully cast and machined.

Andrew

tommycomfort

12-19-2020, 09:07 AM

Excited to follow along! I'm horrible about posting on the forums anymore, but I sure love reading quality posts on them.

andrewb70

12-19-2020, 03:06 PM

Excited to follow along! I'm horrible about posting on the forums anymore, but I sure love reading quality posts on them.

Glad to have you following along Tommy!

Andrew

CarlC

12-19-2020, 11:18 PM

Are there provisions for a trap door system in the pan sump?

When you are ready for gas, I know a guy....... ;-)

andrewb70

12-20-2020, 09:09 AM

Are there provisions for a trap door system in the pan sump?

When you are ready for gas, I know a guy....... ;-)

Carl,

Thanks for the reminder! Holley does offer a very nice baffle kit for the 302-3 pan and I need to add it to the list. And we will definitely discuss fueling needs!

Andrew

andrewb70

12-20-2020, 09:28 AM

On the third day of Christmas my true love brought to me...

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/20/GTOV3-014.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gldy7)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/20/GTOV3-015.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/glCte)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/20/GTOV3-016.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/glUKH)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/20/GTOV3-017.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/glIdR)

This is the Terminator X Max system that will replace the GMPP ECU and harness kit. Given that my business now is tuning Holley EFI systems, it makes sense that I run what I preach.

The Terminator X Max will allow me to retain the DBW and also allow me to implement things like PWM fan control, and any other feature that I want to implement.

I also plan to take my time with the wiring. The Holley harness is ok, but some of the more visible parts are not up to a super clean look. The plan is to make my own injector and coil harness. Making those sub harnesses more like a motorsport harness and fully heat shrinking and labeling them. Some of the sensor branches of the harness may also get the same heat shrink covering. I also plan to integrate the alternator L and S terminals into the main harness.

More to come!

Andrew

Motown 454

12-20-2020, 10:55 AM

Some sweet new parts Andrew, this should turn it up a few notches.

SSLance

12-20-2020, 11:05 AM

Subscribed... Can't wait to view your wiring expertise...

andrewb70

12-20-2020, 12:17 PM

Subscribed... Can't wait to view your wiring expertise...

No pressure...lol

langleylad

12-20-2020, 04:59 PM

That’s an impressive pile of parts there Andrew , did Holley cut you a deal since you are one of their top tuners ? [emoji3]

FLYNAVY53

12-20-2020, 05:37 PM

Looking forward to the updates, especially the wiring as I have plans for a similar "motorsport style" arrangement when the time comes to do the wiring in the Vette.

andrewb70

12-21-2020, 07:47 AM

Looking forward to the updates, especially the wiring as I have plans for a similar "motorsport style" arrangement when the time comes to do the wiring in the Vette.

The harness won't be a full on "motorsports" deal, but more like a "sportsman" style installation. I just want to clean up some of the move visible parts of the harness, so everything looks as tidy as possible.

Continuing our Christmas theme...On the fourth day of Christmas....LOL

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-018.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gl8sw)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-019.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/glWDP)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-020.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gl4Wm)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-021.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gl1EU)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-022.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gleSN)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-023.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gllKk)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/21/GTOV3-024.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/glRGG)

Holley really knocked it out of the park with these Hooker Blackheart, stainless swap headers. These are the full length headers for the GM A-bodies with 1 7/8" primaries. The welds are beautiful, with the tubes fully welded to the inside of the head flange and ground smooth. The tubes are also partially welded on the outside of the head flange for added strength. I'll probably hit these with some acetone and a Scotchbrite pad for a cleaner, slightly brushed look.

My buddy Todd, was the man behind engineering the swap components for Holley and he did an outstanding job. All of the swap components are engineered to work together in order to place the engine as low as possible in the front crossmember. This optimizes the driveline angles, which are a big concern when doing a LS swap on the A-bodies, especially with lowered ride height.

Andrew

CarlC

12-21-2020, 09:01 AM

That's a nice looking set of Headers. On early F-body chassis there usually is insufficient room to have the O2 sensor outboard. Does the A-body have sufficient space for an outboard mount?

andrewb70

12-21-2020, 09:06 AM

That's a nice looking set of Headers. On early F-body chassis there usually is insufficient room to have the O2 sensor outboard. Does the A-body have sufficient space for an outboard mount?

I am pretty sure there is room. I don't exactly recall how things are under the car at the moment. The TerminatorX only has one O2 sensor and that will go in the passenger side. I will also install my trusty FJO NTK in the driver's side header and have that as an input to the ECU.

Andrew

Mr Nick

12-21-2020, 02:07 PM

Is this the car you run the CV driveshaft on? If so, is it still performing to expectations? I'm strongly considering one due to my poor driveline angles and pulsing vibration at highway speeds.

andrewb70

12-21-2020, 02:17 PM

Is this the car you run the CV driveshaft on? If so, is it still performing to expectations? I'm strongly considering one due to my poor driveline angles and pulsing vibration at highway speeds.

It is indeed. Getting the CV shaft made the car very smooth at all speeds. I am using one on the Cougar as well and it is the only style of driveshaft that I will ever use. Give The Driveshaft Shop a call. They will fix you up.

Andrew

Tsaints1115

12-21-2020, 02:34 PM

I will also install my trusty FJO NTK in the driver's side header and have that as an input to the ECU.

Andrew

We're all adults here. You don't have to spell the bad words.

andrewb70

12-21-2020, 02:40 PM

We're all adults here. You don't have to spell the bad words.

Which bad words? LoL

Reckn8

12-21-2020, 02:55 PM

Get the CV drive shaft!! You'll be amazed at the difference.

carbuff

12-21-2020, 08:17 PM

It is indeed. Getting the CV shaft made the car very smooth at all speeds. I am using one on the Cougar as well and it is the only style of driveshaft that I will ever use. Give The Driveshaft Shop a call. They will fix you up.

Andrew

Will you be able to keep everything in a close-enough final position to not have to replace the DS? Or is there more adjustability in the length with the CV? I wouldn't think so, but am curious if the new swap components will move things forward or aft?

andrewb70

12-21-2020, 09:18 PM

Will you be able to keep everything in a close-enough final position to not have to replace the DS? Or is there more adjustability in the length with the CV? I wouldn't think so, but am curious if the new swap components will move things forward or aft?

I will most likely need a different driveshaft because I am also going to switch the transmission.

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

12-21-2020, 10:45 PM

Those headers are sweet! Full SS too

andrewb70

12-22-2020, 10:31 AM

On the fifth day of Christmas, I got jewelry...

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/22/GTOV3-025.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gayf7)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/22/GTOV3-026.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gvZce)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/22/GTOV3-027.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gvGaH)

The Holley fuel rails are super slick. They use a bright dip anodizing process that really makes the rails and the fittings shine.

The AN-6 to rail adapters use an o-ring to seal against the rails. The kit also includes adapter brackets that can be used both on the Gen 3 and Gen 4 intake manifolds and can accommodate various injector heights.

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

12-22-2020, 12:24 PM

Brushed stainless looks awesome especially when they start changing color from the heat

STREETFIGHTER50

12-22-2020, 12:27 PM

Are you sticking with the same trans? What y’all think of that new Tremec TKX?

andrewb70

12-22-2020, 12:31 PM

Are you sticking with the same trans? What y’all think of that new Tremec TKX?

I like it a lot!

Andrew

00fxd

12-22-2020, 12:56 PM

Subscribing :worship:

Nicks67GTO

12-22-2020, 01:23 PM

This thread might bring me back home here. After the photobucket ransom debacle I kind of quit forums. I've got a 70 Chevelle project on deck in a few years and this will all be super useful info. I sure do miss the forum platform.

andrewb70

12-22-2020, 01:29 PM

andrewb70

12-23-2020, 09:46 AM

On the sixth day of Christmas I got fire. I've never used the ceramic boot plug wire, but they seemed like a great addition. The 45° boots should keep the wires away from the header tubes. Fun fact, it seems that David Freiburger was the first to suggest ceramic boot plug wires.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/23/GTOV3-028.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/giZI4)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/23/GTOV3-029.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/giGNn)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/23/GTOV3-030.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/giXx3)

Andrew

andrewb70

12-24-2020, 08:36 AM

On the seventh day of Christmas, we got Johnny.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/24/GTOV3-031.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gixDh)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/24/GTOV3-032.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/giEPP)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/24/GTOV3-033.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/giwBD)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/24/GTOV3-034.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gio8e)

Johnny was brought to the KC Pet Project as a stray. He is a Great Dane Lab mix and is estimated to be about 11 months old. He is currently 50 pounds, but should be about 70 pounds. We are currently fostering him, but that may play out a different way.

Merry Christmas Eve day Everyone!

Andrew

Motown 454

12-24-2020, 10:28 AM

New garage dog??? lol Great company.

SSLance

12-24-2020, 11:28 AM

It looks like he's having a hard time adjusting to the good life... :D

KC Pet Project is an awesome group, thanks for helping them out with Johnny.

rickpaw

12-24-2020, 09:20 PM

Subscribed. And Merry Christmas Andrew

gto406

12-25-2020, 07:44 PM

Parts gathering looking good Andrew! Can’t wait to see progress on GTO 3.0.

Great new friend for helping you out in the garage!

Happy holidays!
BR/Brian.

andrewb70

12-26-2020, 03:37 PM

I hope that everyone had a very Merry Christmas! Ours was uneventful and spending lots of time with Johnny.

The parts collection continues with the Hooker LS swap mounts for GM A-bodies. These are the 1" forward mounts that allow for a little more transmission tunnel clearance. GM A-bodies have notoriously small transmission tunnels which makes fitting modern transmission somewhat of a challenge.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/26/GTOV3-035.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gi5dU)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/26/GTOV3-036.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gi0EN)

The heavy duty, bolt together clam shells are also a nice touch. These are basically 4th gen F-body mounts, the the replacement mounts from Anchor have a tendency to break, as I have found out on the Cougar.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/26/GTOV3-037.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gimOm)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/26/GTOV3-038.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gi9yw)

The mounting system allows for low engine placement in the front crossmember, which really helps with driveline angles, especially if the rear ride height is lowered.

Andrew

dhutton

12-26-2020, 04:09 PM

What transmission will you be running Andrew? DCT?:)

Don

andrewb70

12-26-2020, 07:36 PM

What transmission will you be running Andrew? DCT?:)

Don

Nothing that fancy. I am looking at the new TKX from Bowler.

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

12-26-2020, 09:24 PM

If you go with the TKX tranny would you still need to run the 1” forward mounts?

andrewb70

12-26-2020, 09:27 PM

If you go with the TKX tranny would you still need to run the 1” forward mounts?

Beats me...but that's what I am doing...lol

STREETFIGHTER50

12-26-2020, 09:47 PM

I just remember back in the days all of the aftermarket Foxbody K-Member kits had the 1” engine setback options.

andrewb70

12-27-2020, 07:45 AM

I just remember back in the days all of the aftermarket Foxbody K-Member kits had the 1” engine setback options.

Foxbody Mustangs and even early Mustangs tend to have a bigger transmission tunnel than the GM A-bodies. I had no issues fitting a T56 in my 67 Cougar. The biggest advantage of the forward mounts is that the transmission can be raised up in the back, which is ultimately better for driveline angles in these cars.

Andrew

andrewb70

12-27-2020, 01:57 PM

If there was an overarching theme for the latest round of GTO updates, it would have to be defined by the word "refinement." With the Cougar project I have worked on my plumbing and wiring skills, but both of those things require the proper tools for best results.

So I picked up a flaring tool from Earl's. This tool will perform both 37 and 45 degree flares, both for AN and brake lines.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/27/GTOV3-039.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gijBa)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/27/GTOV3-040.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gintk)

I also picked up the TE Connectivity crimping tool for the terminals that g in the ECU side of the Holley EFI connectors.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/27/GTOV3-041.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gi6JK)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/27/GTOV3-042.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/giQKG)

More parts to come...

Andrew

Motown 454

12-27-2020, 07:17 PM

Those should make the job easier.

ryeguy2006a

12-28-2020, 10:35 AM

Looking great Andrew! Keep the parts coming!!

andrewb70

12-29-2020, 02:50 PM

Another critical piece of the puzzle arrived. This is one of Rick's tanks RestoMod tanks that is designed to use modern fuel pump modules. These are a lower cost alternative to Rick's stainless tanks, but with the same great technology. The tank will be fitted with a 5th Gen Camaro ZL1 pump module, which will provide enough fuel for 750 flywheel horse power, which is way more than I need.

Naturally, a VaporWorx PWM control system will be used to keep the supply of fuel steady, but also not over heat the fuel. Using the ZL1 module will also simplify the plumbing, because there will no longer be a need for an external regulator or fuel filter. On top of that, the ZL1 module comes with a fuel level sensor that can easily be integrated with the Holley EFI system.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/29/GTOV3-043.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gyvZn)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2020/12/29/GTOV3-044.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/gyir3)

I like the gray powder coating on the tank, but I will probably use rattle can bedliner spray for a more stealthy look and protection against rock chips.

Andrew

csouth

12-29-2020, 08:11 PM

andrewb70

12-29-2020, 09:37 PM

Very nice! They messaged me a cpl weeks ago saying they just got stock in. I inquired about them as I was thinking about switching from my Tanks Inc setup.

It would make an excellent upgrade from the Tanks Inc setup.

andrewb70

01-07-2021, 01:05 PM

Slowly, but surely the parts are trickling in.

The perfect compliment to the Rick's RestoMod tank and the ZL1 Camaro pump module is the PWM controller from VaporWorx. The VaporWorx controller is a closed loop controller that will maintain a steady 58psi at the rails, without the need for an external regulator, and a single feed line from the tank to the engine.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/07/GTOV3-045.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pNwHG)

Johnny is also doing great. He has gained 20 pounds in 2 weeks and it getting very comfortable in our house. Maybe a little too comfortable...LOL

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/07/GTOV3-046.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pNoJw)

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

01-07-2021, 01:37 PM

So with the Vaporworx controller you don’t need to run a return line? Also, how much cheaper is the new tank vs. the stainless steel version?

andrewb70

01-07-2021, 01:55 PM

So with the Vaporworx controller you don’t need to run a return line? Also, how much cheaper is the new tank vs. the stainless steel version?

That is correct, regarding the return line. The RestoMod tank was just over $400, directly from Rick's, which is significantly less expensive than their high end stainless tanks.

Andrew

Motown 454

01-07-2021, 03:33 PM

Nice parts Andrew. Johnny sure looks happy to me. That tank will help a lot of guys afford going this route on their projects.

CarlC

01-07-2021, 09:54 PM

No external regulators, return lines, or filters are needed when the fuel module and PWM controller are used. It works very similar to the systems used in todays high horsepower cars. Camaro, Cadillac, Mustangs, Hellcat, Demon, etc. There are no OEM high horsepower return type fuel systems being used by the OEM's.

64G-lark

01-08-2021, 07:50 PM

Lots of nice parts arriving Andrew. When are you going to tell us your plan?

Crazy Horse

01-08-2021, 08:17 PM

Looking Good My Friend!
That CV Shaft sure looks interesting, I will give definitely give them a call.
And my "Paisanos" at Rick's are just Awesome!!!

no_go nico

01-08-2021, 08:51 PM

in for updates

andrewb70

01-09-2021, 07:00 AM

Lots of nice parts arriving Andrew. When are you going to tell us your plan?

Seems like my plans were pretty obvious, given the parts collection...:geek:

As I stated before, the purpose is to update and refine certain aspects of the car. The Holley swap components and the VaporWorx controller are an essential part of that.

I do have some other things that will be upgraded as well, but y'all will just have to wait and see. :drive1:

Andrew

David Sloan

01-10-2021, 04:22 PM

Sweet !
I will be checking in on this ,always enjoy your build threads.

andrewb70

01-12-2021, 07:37 PM

Another piece of the puzzle arrived today.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/12/GTOV3-047.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pS69S)

This is the new Tremec TKX transmission from Bowler. I chose Bowler because the offer great service and Craig comes around the forum to answer transmission related questions, which I really appreciate.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/12/GTOV3-048.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pSn35)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/12/GTOV3-049.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pS7qT)

This is obviously the GM version with a 2.87 1st gear and .68 5th gear. This should make for a great combination with my 3.42 rear gears and 27" tall rear tires. The TKX is a forward step from the TKO and Tremec claims that no transmission tunnel modifications are required for GM A-bodies.

I got mine with the 2" offset shifter, which should make it a little easier to work with my existing shifter hump, which is not stock, but was built to work with the Richmond 6 speed transmission that I currently have.

I am hoping the the modern synchronizer design of this transmission will offer crisp gear changes and improved overall performance.

Andrew

Motown 454

01-12-2021, 08:36 PM

Nice Andrew! Its supposed to be nice transmission.

andrewb70

01-13-2021, 06:00 AM

Nice Andrew! Its supposed to be nice transmission.

I sure hope so!

Andrew

Josh@Ridetech

01-13-2021, 10:46 AM

I sure hope so!

Andrew

If you don't like it, just bring it over to me. :D

STREETFIGHTER50

01-13-2021, 06:26 PM

I love everything I’ve read about that new TKX. Looks very nice too!

joeko23

01-13-2021, 06:27 PM

Nice parts Andrew! Certainly will be a big upgrade.

Motown 454

01-13-2021, 09:26 PM

I just read on Modern Drive Line's site, They say 8,000 RPM shifts. I thought it was 7,500 RPM, either way that's some lofty speed.

andrewb70

01-14-2021, 08:28 AM

The Brown truck delivered another much anticipated item. I will be using the Holley Mid Mount accessory drive system to really set off the engine compartment.

These are stock photos from the Holley website, because pictures of a big box aren't very exciting.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/14/GTOV3-050.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pbmSH)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/14/GTOV3-051.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pb0Ee)

https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo84.JPG

After looking at various installation pictures, I am fairly certain that the air intake tube from my shaker base will need to be modified, because it looks like it will not interfere with the AC compressor. This is all part of the process...

Andrew

Motown 454

01-14-2021, 08:55 AM

That's a nice looking setup, did you go with the black finish?

andrewb70

01-14-2021, 09:02 AM

That's a nice looking setup, did you go with the black finish?

Yes, I did.

Andrew

Motown 454

01-14-2021, 09:20 AM

That's going to be nice. I wish they made a kit for the LSA.

andrewb70

01-14-2021, 09:27 AM

That's going to be nice. I wish they made a kit for the LSA.

I am actually surprised they don't. They have kits for the LT4/5...

Andrew

carbuff

01-14-2021, 09:53 AM

That's going to be nice. I wish they made a kit for the LSA.

What about this one from Wegner?

https://www.wegnerautomotive.com/drive-kits/lsx-drive-kits/supercharged/wak053/

thumper877

01-14-2021, 11:39 AM

I need to sit outside ur house and wait for the ups guy. I could be a porch pirate lol. Nice pile of parts

_BQ

01-14-2021, 08:03 PM

The Holley Mid Mount setup is really, really nice. I could not be more pleased with mine.

andrewb70

01-14-2021, 08:17 PM

The Holley Mid Mount setup is really, really nice. I could not be more pleased with mine.

I'm pretty excited about it. The goal is to have functional AC...finally...after 20 years of being "done" with the build...lol

Andrew

andrewb70

01-17-2021, 07:33 AM

Some of the upgrade parts are rather mundane. I have always had manual brakes on the GTO, but as the goal for the update is to make the car a little more refined and improver driver comfort, I will be adding power, vacuum assisted brakes.

This is the new MC that I purchased from Tobin at Kore3. Tobin has always been selfless in his sharing of information and back in 2008 I ordered the C6 Z06 front brakes from him. This is the 1" bore RHD S10 master cylinder that I plan to mate with a Tuff Stuff 9" dual diaphragm booster and a DSE reduced angle firewall mount.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/17/GTOV3-052.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/phUTH)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/01/17/GTOV3-053.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/phs07)

Andrew

gto406

01-17-2021, 07:51 AM

Seems like my plans were pretty obvious, given the parts collection...:geek:

As I stated before, the purpose is to update and refine certain aspects of the car. The Holley swap components and the VaporWorx controller are an essential part of that.

I do have some other things that will be upgraded as well, but y'all will just have to wait and see. :drive1:

Andrew

Is that PWM controller similar to the Aeromotive controller?

I ask as the Aeromotive in-tank pump on my Bird died (Stealth unit) and I replaced the pump component - I moved from 4bbl Holley carb to Holler Sniper. Spoke with Aeromotive and they indicated pump may have expired due to heat buildup (running a 10 micron Russell filter) pre-Sniper.

Trying to determine how best to ensure the new pump stays alive. Would a PWM or Aeromotive controller in your opinion help?

Running a Tanks Inc., with the pump in-tank. [emoji869]

Cheers,
Brian.

David Sloan

01-17-2021, 08:21 AM

Just wondering what made you want to go to a power brake setup?
I'm at a point in my build of my elcamino that I'm trying to decide to go manual or power.
I also have the C6 vette brakes front and rear, i was originally going with manual but I'm building this as more of a everyday driver.
I like the brakes to be predictable an not touchy like some vacuum or hydyboost systems can be.
Thanks for sharing

andrewb70

01-17-2021, 08:59 AM

Is that PWM controller similar to the Aeromotive controller?

I ask as the Aeromotive in-tank pump on my Bird died (Stealth unit) and I replaced the pump component - I moved from 4bbl Holley carb to Holler Sniper. Spoke with Aeromotive and they indicated pump may have expired due to heat buildup (running a 10 micron Russell filter) pre-Sniper.

Trying to determine how best to ensure the new pump stays alive. Would a PWM or Aeromotive controller in your opinion help?

Running a Tanks Inc., with the pump in-tank. [emoji869]

Cheers,
Brian.

Hi Brian,

Thanks for following along and the question. To be honest, I don't know anything about the Aeromotive controller. Your best bet is to contact Carl at VaporWorx and ask him. I think he is actually following along, so perhaps he will post an answer for you. Also, if you need help tuning the Sniper EFI system, please keep me in mind.

Andrew

Just wondering what made you want to go to a power brake setup?
I'm at a point in my build of my elcamino that I'm trying to decide to go manual or power.
I also have the C6 vette brakes front and rear, i was originally going with manual but I'm building this as more of a everyday driver.
I like the brakes to be predictable an not touchy like some vacuum or hydyboost systems can be.
Thanks for sharing

Hi David,

For the record, I never had issues with the manual brakes. The reason for going with power brakes is to have a nice soft pedal feel and also to provide more pressure to the brakes. I am hoping to increase braking performance, while also reducing pedal effort.

I think the reason for very touchy pedal feel when using power brakes is that the MC is too big. This is a 1" bore MC and should match very well to the C6z06 brakes that I am using.

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

01-17-2021, 11:03 AM

Those Holley accessory drive kits are very nice! I think Holley everything so far is very nice, actually. Wouldn’t the AC system have better clearance with the low mount?

FLYNAVY53

01-17-2021, 01:24 PM

I think the reason for very touchy pedal feel when using power brakes is that the MC is too big. This is a 1" bore MC and should match very well to the C6z06 brakes that I am using.

Andrew

I've also found "touchy" power brakes can be the result of an incorrectly sized vacuum booster for the given system.

The math to calculate how much "boost" is being applied is (vacuum at idle) x (booster diameter) x (number of diaphragms)...not sure what units that gives you.
Wilwood recommends a minimum of 18 inches of vacuum at idle and an 8 inch diameter booster. With a dual diaphragm booster, that gives you 288 units of boost. As you can see, if you go to a 9 inch or larger booster, it would be very easy to end up with more boost than you need and have some very touchy brakes.

Just as an example (of under performing brakes), the brakes on may '72 Suburban always required way more effort than they should have for a given amount of braking. You could stop the truck on a dime, but you had to stand on the pedal. I found that I was only pulling 15 inches of vacuum at idle, and because I had retained the factory 11 inch, SINGLE diaphragm booster, I was only seeing 165 units of boost.

I fixed the problem by swapping to a dual diaphragm 11 inch booster which increased the boost to 330 units. This instantly solved the problem. The pedal effort is right in line with that of my 2016 4Runner, with easy modulation and excellent stopping power in the big truck. I also swapped to some Wilwood "E compound" pads for a little more initial bite.

As you can see, if you're running too big of a booster for your application, you could easily find yourself in the opposite scenario where your brakes are waaayyyy too touchy.

Hope that helps!

CarlC

01-17-2021, 05:29 PM

The Aeromotive PWM controller uses engine RPM (spark) to set the pump speed. It also requires an external return-type regulator.

Unlike true returnless systems, there must be sufficient duty cycle to press open the mechanical regulator (diaphragm + spring) and have return fuel. Basically, since RPM is the control signal, the system must overdrive during idle and cruise since there is no actual demand feedback (pressure sensor), and the pump(s) will run full speed on downshifts ==> no fuel demand + high engine RPM.

When using a mechanically regulated system (return) at 60psi, then switching to returnless PWM, means at least a 50% reduction in power to the pump. The Stealth 340 PWM's quite nicely as well. The basic kit that works with a single Stealth 340 is this, just remove the GM fuel module plug and attach to your hat + follow the Aeromotove instructions for PWM control: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pwzl13b-tm/ For dual pumps, only one Aeromotive bypass hole needed: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pw3bdti267/

There are a bunch of variables, but the RPM controlled systems are not nearly as efficient as fuel pressure feedback/returnless systems. There's lots of info to put you to sleep here: https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/

andrewb70

01-18-2021, 07:50 AM

I've also found "touchy" power brakes can be the result of an incorrectly sized vacuum booster for the given system.

The math to calculate how much "boost" is being applied is (vacuum at idle) x (booster diameter) x (number of diaphragms)...not sure what units that gives you.
Wilwood recommends a minimum of 18 inches of vacuum at idle and an 8 inch diameter booster. With a dual diaphragm booster, that gives you 288 units of boost. As you can see, if you go to a 9 inch or larger booster, it would be very easy to end up with more boost than you need and have some very touchy brakes.

Just as an example (of under performing brakes), the brakes on may '72 Suburban always required way more effort than they should have for a given amount of braking. You could stop the truck on a dime, but you had to stand on the pedal. I found that I was only pulling 15 inches of vacuum at idle, and because I had retained the factory 11 inch, SINGLE diaphragm booster, I was only seeing 165 units of boost.

I fixed the problem by swapping to a dual diaphragm 11 inch booster which increased the boost to 330 units. This instantly solved the problem. The pedal effort is right in line with that of my 2016 4Runner, with easy modulation and excellent stopping power in the big truck. I also swapped to some Wilwood "E compound" pads for a little more initial bite.

As you can see, if you're running too big of a booster for your application, you could easily find yourself in the opposite scenario where your brakes are waaayyyy too touchy.

Hope that helps!

This is excellent information. I plan to use a dual diaphragm 9" booster and my engine vacuum will be about 15in/hg. Hopefully that won't have an over boosted feel.

The Aeromotive PWM controller uses engine RPM (spark) to set the pump speed. It also requires an external return-type regulator.

Unlike true returnless systems, there must be sufficient duty cycle to press open the mechanical regulator (diaphragm + spring) and have return fuel. Basically, since RPM is the control signal, the system must overdrive during idle and cruise since there is no actual demand feedback (pressure sensor), and the pump(s) will run full speed on downshifts ==> no fuel demand + high engine RPM.

When using a mechanically regulated system (return) at 60psi, then switching to returnless PWM, means at least a 50% reduction in power to the pump. The Stealth 340 PWM's quite nicely as well. The basic kit that works with a single Stealth 340 is this, just remove the GM fuel module plug and attach to your hat + follow the Aeromotove instructions for PWM control: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pwzl13b-tm/ For dual pumps, only one Aeromotive bypass hole needed: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pw3bdti267/

There are a bunch of variables, but the RPM controlled systems are not nearly as efficient as fuel pressure feedback/returnless systems. There's lots of info to put you to sleep here: https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/

Thanks for chiming in Carl. I knew you would explain it much better than I could.

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

01-18-2021, 09:48 AM

968ls1

01-18-2021, 10:46 AM

Andrew, also verify your pedal ratio is correct for a boosted application. If you're going from a manual brake system to boosted, and don't change the pedal ratio, you'll have issues. I imagine there are two holes on the factory brake pedal, one for manual and one for boosted, just make sure the master cylinder pushrod is connected to the correct hole.

Same set up I ran on my GTO worked perfectly.

andrewb70

01-18-2021, 01:11 PM

FLYNAVY53

01-18-2021, 01:26 PM

You should be perfect then! With 15" vacuum and the 9 inch booster, I don't think you'll have any issue with "twitchy" brakes. Not sure what calipers you're running, but I cant overstate how happy I am with the Wilwood "E compound" pads as a performance street pad.

Looking forward to the updates!!

BonzoHansen

01-18-2021, 03:23 PM

Loving this thread.

Andrew, what's the part number on that MC?

joeko23

01-18-2021, 05:19 PM

Hey Andrew I have a question about the pedal ratio. So in my 69 Camaro, I also have 2 holes (top) for Manuel and bottom for power brakes. I modified my master booster mount to 3 degrees which is what DSE reduced angle mount is. The question is, shouldn’t we use the upper (Manuel) hole because of the reduced angle? If we use the lower hole, the angle will be different and might hurt the master, no? That’s at least my thinking. I could be wrong.

andrewb70

01-19-2021, 03:30 PM

Loving this thread.

Andrew, what's the part number on that MC?

It is a Raybestos part number: MC390572

Hey Andrew I have a question about the pedal ratio. So in my 69 Camaro, I also have 2 holes (top) for Manuel and bottom for power brakes. I modified my master booster mount to 3 degrees which is what DSE reduced angle mount is. The question is, shouldn’t we use the upper (Manuel) hole because of the reduced angle? If we use the lower hole, the angle will be different and might hurt the master, no? That’s at least my thinking. I could be wrong.

I haven't mocked anything up yet, but I think the angle on the booster is not as critical as the angle on the MC itself. Maybe someone else has some insight into this...

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

01-19-2021, 04:03 PM

as long as the pushrod angle into the booster isn't excessive, resulting in binding or rubbing, you should be fine. it is important to make sure the booster and master cylinder are in alignment. definitely use the appropriate pedal hole for your application or you will have issues.

joeko23

01-19-2021, 04:31 PM

So in this case what would be the appropriate pedal hole? The lower hole (power) or upper hole (Manuel)?

FLYNAVY53

01-19-2021, 04:59 PM

So in this case what would be the appropriate pedal hole? The lower hole (power) or upper hole (Manuel)?

Whichever hole is appropriate for your brake system. If you are running power brakes, and have the rod attached to the manual hole, you're going to find that you have little to no stopping power.

If you're unfamiliar with the difference, I strongly recommend doing a quick google search on "brake pedal ratio". Using the different holes to fix master cylinder alignment issues is going to set you up for a poorly functioning brake system.

I'm unfamiliar with the specifics of the DSE Camaro master cylinder, but given the number of pro touring Cameras on the forum, I imagine someone has found the right combo.

joeko23

01-19-2021, 05:53 PM

I guess your right, you would put it in the power or lower hole to maintain the correct ratio. Since it’s going through a booster and not directly into a master the angle doesn’t matter at that point.

FLYNAVY53

01-19-2021, 06:07 PM

correct...as long as the angle into the booster isn't ridiculous...if I had to guess, the pushrod angle from my pedal into the booster on my C20 is somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-5 degrees....maybe. That being said, given the master cylinder is mounted directly to the booster, that pushrod is perfectly aligned.

OLDFLM

01-20-2021, 06:58 AM

Tsaints1115

01-20-2021, 09:40 AM

I spoke to tech at Wilwood before modifying the mounting brackets on my wagon and was assured that the master cylinder being level is fine.

andrewb70

01-20-2021, 10:38 AM

I spoke to tech at Wilwood before modifying the mounting brackets on my wagon and was assured that the master cylinder being level is fine.

That's very good to hear!

BonzoHansen

01-20-2021, 03:31 PM

Thank you

It is a Raybestos part number: MC390572

Why that one over say a C5 MC? The SAE line fittings? Both at 1" bore with left side outlets.

andrewb70

01-21-2021, 07:25 AM

Thank you

Why that one over say a C5 MC? The SAE line fittings? Both at 1" bore with left side outlets.

Right...The C5 MC has metric bubble flare ports and the S10 has the SAE inverted flare ports.

Andrew

BonzoHansen

01-21-2021, 05:23 PM

Thanks again

andrewb70

02-06-2021, 09:58 AM

The latest round of parts isn't exactly sexy, but I feel like they will offer some incremental improvements.

This is a dual 9" diaphragm booster from Tuff Stuff. It will work great with the S10 MC. I also plan to get the DSE low angle bracket.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/02/06/GTOV3-054.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pM8Cm)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/02/06/GTOV3-055.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pMRZN)

Since my engine started life as a L92, the valley cover didn't have a vent. The truck engine PCV systems get clean air from the driver's side valve covers and dirty air comes out the passenger valve cover. The LS3 valley cover has a great baffle system in the valley cover and and outlet that can be looped right back into the intake.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/02/06/GTOV3-056.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pM1mP)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/02/06/GTOV3-057.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pMehh)

This makes for a very clean installation.

Andrew

eville

02-17-2021, 11:25 PM

andrewb70

02-23-2021, 07:22 PM

If anyone is interested, I put my current engine up for sale:

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/136084-L92-LS3-engine-with-accessories-and-ECU-harness

Andrew

andrewb70

03-05-2021, 12:49 PM

Not much interest in my engine, so it will just probably be a cam swap and call it a day...

Another thing that I plan to do is implement PWM cooling fan control. This is sure easy to do with any Holley EFI system (except Sniper). I can keep my current fans and add a C6 fan controller (probably need two) or I may upgrade the fans to the latest brushless design (I have some Chevy Volt fans that might fit well).

The fan control strategy will also integrate AC and vehicle speed. I have this working on my Cougar already, although without AC integration. Here is a video to see how it works in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUL3XeyIWWY

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

03-05-2021, 12:56 PM

Which cam will you go with?

Motown 454

03-05-2021, 01:01 PM

That's a nice setup Andrew, you can't ask for any better control than that.

David Sloan

03-05-2021, 01:44 PM

Yes sir that is sweet!

andrewb70

03-05-2021, 02:35 PM

Which cam will you go with?

Good question. I like the cam that's in the Cougar. It's the Summit Ghost cam. If I go "off the shelf" it'll be that one.

If I go custom, it'll be ground by Cam Motion.

Andrew

thumper877

03-05-2021, 04:15 PM

Really suprized not more interest in the motor. That is a really good deal. Maybe people hurting because of the covid thing

andrewb70

03-05-2021, 04:17 PM

Really suprized not more interest in the motor. That is a really good deal. Maybe people hurting because of the covid thing

Maybe...hard to say...

Andrew

STREETFIGHTER50

03-05-2021, 10:27 PM

What’s the combo in the Cougar again?

andrewb70

03-05-2021, 10:31 PM

What’s the combo in the Cougar again?

It's a Gen 4 5.3L with a cam. Nothing crazy.

ryeguy2006a

03-08-2021, 09:34 AM

Me too, I'm surprised there isn't more interest in your motor. Have you advertised locally?

andrewb70

03-08-2021, 09:42 AM

Me too, I'm surprised there isn't more interest in your motor. Have you advertised locally?

Nope. And the more I think about it the less I can justify anything more than a cam swap.

130fe

03-08-2021, 12:24 PM

andrewb70

03-08-2021, 01:17 PM

Andrew, is this display one of the Holley ones? What size is it? Thanks!

It's the older 7" Holley dash.

andrewb70

03-17-2021, 08:51 AM

ryeguy2006a

03-17-2021, 08:55 AM

Very nice! I've thought about those too, keep us posted when you get a chance to use them.

thumper877

03-17-2021, 09:04 AM

Yes sir. When we get old any advantage we can get. Those will definitely make it easier

FLYNAVY53

03-17-2021, 09:46 AM

I bought one of those when I started working on my Corvette....by far the best investment I've made with regard to tools. You'll absolutely love it!

andrewb70

03-17-2021, 10:18 AM

Thanks guys. I appreciate the feed back and I'm more excited than ever to get working on it.

FLYNAVY53

03-17-2021, 10:48 AM

Something to keep in mind, that was a little counter intuitive until I thought about it....the car is actually MORE stable with the lift locked out on the higher setting, so dont be hesitant to put it all the way up. Enjoy!!

David Sloan

03-17-2021, 11:01 AM

nice ! We will be waiting on updates on the quick jack!

BonzoHansen

03-17-2021, 03:55 PM

I have a 7000. Here I am after wresting a 4 speed in a 1st gen
186025

STREETFIGHTER50

03-17-2021, 04:40 PM

I’ve been wanting a set of QuickJacks forever now. I’m wondering if the 7000 would work for all our cars. From our 3 little Pontiac Vibes to our Nissan Armada AWD. I’ll definitely buy during the next Costco sale.

Way2qwk4u

03-18-2021, 05:33 AM

Spring is definitely coming, but the weather is still pretty crappy. In the meantime, I opted to make my life a little easier. Working in a small garage will be hard enough, so having some extra help will be good. The thought of trying to get on every corner of the car with a jack sounds painful.

Since I can't have a lift, I decided on these:

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/17/GTOV3-058.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pYxi5)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/17/GTOV3-059.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pYwI4)

This is the 5000 pound extended model. After looking at the dimensions and comparing them to my GTO frame, these seemed to be the right option. They will also work well with my Cougar and the other daily drivers in the fleet.

Andrew

I have the 7000 in 110v. I love em. I have lifted everything I own even the silverado truck. Just always make sure that they are even and that both sides lock in on the safety stops. Not as portable as I thought they are kinda heavy. But if I had not bought them I could not have done the LS swap on my car. Also make sure you keep the vent open on the fluid tank when using them. Got the wall hangers as well and they are nice to help keep them out of the way.

andrewb70

03-18-2021, 05:52 AM

I have the 7000 in 110v. I love em. I have lifted everything I own even the silverado truck. Just always make sure that they are even and that both sides lock in on the safety stops. Not as portable as I thought they are kinda heavy. But if I had not bought them I could not have done the LS swap on my car. Also make sure you keep the vent open on the fluid tank when using them. Got the wall hangers as well and they are nice to help keep them out of the way.

Thanks for the tips! I did order the wall mounts as well.

Andrew

andrewb70

03-28-2021, 03:36 PM

My friend Brian flew in from Chicago on Friday night to help me get the engine and transmission extracted from the GTO. He is a professional diesel generator mechanic and works super fast. He was the one that helped me pull the big block out of the GTO when I did the LS swap back in 2008.

We drove to the storage unit in the morning to bring the car to my house. The weather was supposed to be decent, but it was still a little wet from the previous night's rain.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-060.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/psRNh)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-061.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/psaIm)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-062.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/ps8qD)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-063.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pslwP)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-064.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/psviN)

First order of business is to remove the hood and have it in a relatively secure location. We had a lot of moving blankets left from our move and those came in very handy.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-065.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/psypU)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-066.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUX8G)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-067.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUz3k)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-068.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUGjw)

While Brian was getting all of the little things unbolted and the harness unplugged, I was working on assembling and bleeding the QuickJacks.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-069.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUN9K)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-070.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUhxc)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-071.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUOqa)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-072.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUbNt)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-073.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUuI8)

The QuickJacks work as advertised. Once they were bled and positioned under the GTO frame, all it took was a press of the button and it went up in the air in about 10 seconds. This sure beats jacking up each corner with a floor jack and then positioning jack stands under each corner.

If I had one complaint it would be that getting access under the car in the middle is rather limited. You can only get under it from the front or rear, which makes getting to the transmission a little cumbersome. However, the car is up high enough that if we had 2 low profile rollers, it would be pretty easy to get anywhere under the car. I don't regret the purchase and I think these will be used a lot.

...........

andrewb70

03-28-2021, 03:42 PM

The engine plate was bolted over the valley cover with the supplied longer bolts. This made it a lot easier because the valley cover didn't have to be fully removed.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-074.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pU3in)

With everything unhooked on the bottom, it was time to hook up the hoist and get the engine and transmission out. A big thanks to Ron for lending me the hoist, engine stand, and transmission jack. All three were invaluable.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-075.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUc85)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-076.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUpBS)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-077.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUVj4)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/28/GTOV3-078.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pUH23)

The engine was put on the stand, everything got tidied up, and the GTO was rolled into the garage. The space is pretty tight, but the driveway is huge. The plan is to roll the car out on nice days and just work on it a little bit at a time. Having a lot of working space around the car will minimize the chances of damage, etc...

Andrew

Motown 454

03-28-2021, 03:55 PM

Nice progress Andrew. Your doing some nice upgrades.

thumper877

03-28-2021, 04:06 PM

Sorry I couldn't get over to help you but glad the equipment helped out. Promise I will help you put it back in or with anything you need

Way2qwk4u

03-28-2021, 05:18 PM

Yes I had the same issue. I made up some 6x6 blocks that fit tight in the pockets on the quick jacks. And also got a low profile creeper. Only problem I ever had was my fault and I did not check the locks. Left the car overnight and next morning when I walked in the garage it was all lopsided. Still on the lift but it still scared me. So I will always check them from now on. Glad to see you are making progress.

130fe

03-28-2021, 05:39 PM

Any idea on where you are thinking about mounting the new PCM?

STREETFIGHTER50

03-28-2021, 06:47 PM

Nice work Andrew. Good to see them QuickJacks in action. That driveway is huge!

andrewb70

03-28-2021, 06:53 PM

Nice progress Andrew. Your doing some nice upgrades.

Thanks Wayne!

Sorry I couldn't get over to help you but glad the equipment helped out. Promise I will help you put it back in or with anything you need

Ron,
You have done enough! I really appreciate the equipment loan. Everything worked perfectly!

Yes I had the same issue. I made up some 6x6 blocks that fit tight in the pockets on the quick jacks. And also got a low profile creeper. Only problem I ever had was my fault and I did not check the locks. Left the car overnight and next morning when I walked in the garage it was all lopsided. Still on the lift but it still scared me. So I will always check them from now on. Glad to see you are making progress.

I am sure that I will learn better how to work with them, but so far so good!

Any idea on where you are thinking about mounting the new PCM?

There is a little shelf that was built as part of the structure that holds the Vintage Air AC unit under the dash. I plan to mount the ECU under that little shelf. That's where the e67 ECU is currently located.

Nice work Andrew. Good to see them QuickJacks in action. That driveway is huge!

The driveway was one of the great selling points of the house. The garage is only 21x21, but on any nice day, I can just work outside. The driveway is big and flat, which makes life very easy.

Andrew

ryeguy2006a

03-29-2021, 03:51 AM

Great progress Andrew! You guys work quickly!

joeko23

03-29-2021, 06:59 AM

Andrew, you changing the intake manifold too? Or upgrading to an lsa supercharger?

andrewb70

03-29-2021, 07:02 AM

Andrew, you changing the intake manifold too? Or upgrading to an lsa supercharger?

Keeping the intake and no LSA blower for me.

SSLance

03-29-2021, 08:41 AM

The driveway was one of the great selling points of the house. The garage is only 21x21, but on any nice day, I can just work outside. The driveway is big and flat, which makes life very easy.

Which in KC is about 30 days a year... :hah: :lol:

Nice progress Andrew, should buzz right along now that the heavy lifting part has started.

andrewb70

03-29-2021, 09:15 AM

Which in KC is about 30 days a year... :hah: :lol:

Nice progress Andrew, should buzz right along now that the heavy lifting part has started.

I don't mind the heat. As long as there is no rain, I'm good to go.

Andrew

Peanut1959

03-29-2021, 09:38 AM

andrewb70

03-29-2021, 10:50 AM

SSLance

03-30-2021, 10:17 AM

Andrewb70,
I didn't realize you were so close! I'm in Jefferson City.

I've been thinking about having Tallant's handle the build of my '59 Studebaker Lark. It will be quasi-Pro Touring in style.

Do you know anything about their work? Are there better (and/or more affordable rod shops I should consider in the Show-Me state?
Matt
(Peanut1959)

I am familiar with the Tallants...both Dave and Dan. I lived in the KC area for 35 years but left about 3.5 years ago.

I'm not sure about the more affordable portion of your question, but if I was in KC looking to have a car built, these would be the first three that I'd check out.

This is Dave's (the Dad) shop.

Dave's Hot Rod Shop
Address (https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&sxsrf=ALeKk03KrJ0vD2xonNa3hebHOrEAo30TZQ:161712793 3224&q=dave%27s+auto+body+%26+hot+rod+shop+address&stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAOPgE-LWT9c3LEkvKDEuKdCSzU620s_JT04syczPgzOsElNSilKLixex qqcklqWqFysklpbkKyTlp1QqqClk5JcoFOWnKBRn5BcoQFUCAH vTmVBYAAAA&ludocid=553271539321178200&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiCnoCAz9jvAhWJvp4KHbwmCBIQ6BMwBXoECBIQB w): 513 US-169, Smithville, MO 64089
Phone (https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&sxsrf=ALeKk03KrJ0vD2xonNa3hebHOrEAo30TZQ:161712793 3224&q=dave%27s+auto+body+%26+hot+rod+shop+phone&ludocid=553271539321178200&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiCnoCAz9jvAhWJvp4KHbwmCBIQ6BMwCHoECAYQA g): (816) 532-3600 (https://www.google.com/search?q=dave%27s%20hot%20rod%20shop&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&oq=daves+hot+rod&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j46i10i175i199j0i10i457j0i22i30l 6.7349j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&tbs=lrf:!1m4!1u17!2m2!17m1!1e2!1m4!1u3!2m2!3m1!1e1 !1m4!1u2!2m2!2m1!1e1!1m4!1u16!2m2!16m1!1e1!1m4!1u1 6!2m2!16m1!1e2!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e16!2m1!1e3!2m4!1e17!4 m2!17m1!1e2!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:2&tbm=lcl&sxsrf=ALeKk01Xy_Lp0XcpPtijvpSEjhnWH9c_Ew:161712788 6658&rflfq=1&num=10&rldimm=553271539321178200&lqi=ChNkYXZlJ3MgaG90IHJvZCBzaG9wSLWe8urlgICACFo6Ch NkYXZlJ3MgaG90IHJvZCBzaG9wEAAQARACEAMYABgBGAIYAyIT ZGF2ZSdzIGhvdCByb2Qgc2hvcJIBDmF1dG9fYm9keV9zaG9wqg EMEAEqCCIEc2hvcCgA&ved=2ahUKEwj_8_XpztjvAhXwITQIHWZZCmUQvS4wAnoECAcQY g&rlst=f#)

This is Dan's shop which is the one I assume you know about already.

https://www.tallantshotrods.net/home.html

This is another shop near KC with a great reputation.

Vintage Fabrication LLC

Address (https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&sxsrf=ALeKk01CDssKx2U_p8gcNfTolT2sbBa8HQ:161712802 2757&q=vintage+fabrication+address&stick=H4sIAAAAAAAAAOPgE-LWT9c3LEkpSzMqTtOSzU620s_JT04syczPgzOsElNSilKLixex Spdl5pUkpqcqpCUmFWVCZBWgsgAcpUbwTAAAAA&ludocid=3919994129989811215&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwihk9Sqz9jvAhUXvp4KHcnSBzUQ6BMwBXoECBIQB w): 2419 N Old Atherton Rd, Independence, MO 64058

Hours (https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&sxsrf=ALeKk01CDssKx2U_p8gcNfTolT2sbBa8HQ:161712802 2757&q=vintage+fabrication+hours&ludocid=3919994129989811215&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwihk9Sqz9jvAhUXvp4KHcnSBzUQ6BMwB3oECAQQA g): Open ⋅ Closes 6PM

Phone (https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&sxsrf=ALeKk01CDssKx2U_p8gcNfTolT2sbBa8HQ:161712802 2757&q=vintage+fabrication+phone&ludocid=3919994129989811215&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwihk9Sqz9jvAhUXvp4KHcnSBzUQ6BMwCHoECAUQA g): (816) 796-0748 (https://www.google.com/search?q=vintage+fabrication+llc+independence+mo&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS879US879&tbm=lcl&sxsrf=ALeKk00NtMymY5ecyIcC6-kR4ykePiLc3A%3A1617127931491&ei=-2ljYMO8HdrO0PEP6pyRmAQ&oq=vintage+fabrication&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.0l3j0i22i30k1l7.75879.86198.0.88466.19.12.0 .7.7.0.163.1343.1j10.11.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.18.1387...35i39k1j0i273k1j0i433i131k1j0i433k 1j0i67k1j0i457k1j0i263i457i20k1.0.vohCbVnNGwI#)

andrewb70

03-30-2021, 02:32 PM

The current layout of the dash is functional, but the gauges have a bit of an outdated look.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-082.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCAmE)

So to bring it up todays standards, I decided to replace them with Holley analog CAN gauges.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-079.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCAmE)

Both the speedometer and the tach will be connected to the Terminator X ECU and all data will go over the CAN bus. This makes installation super simple and clean. The fuel gauge will go in place of the FJO wideband gauge. It is a fully programmable gauge and will work well with the OEM sender that is a part of the 5th gen Camaro ZL1 pump module that I plan to use.

I also received the oil pan baffle kit and a line lock kit for when I want to smoke the tires...:-)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-080.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCtbT)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-081.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pC6n5)

Andrew

David Sloan

03-30-2021, 02:40 PM

Getting it done! As far as smoking the tires just put a turbo on it and you can do burnouts rolling 60 / 70 mph! Lol!
Love the updates keep them coming!

andrewb70

03-30-2021, 02:58 PM

Getting it done! As far as smoking the tires just put a turbo on it and you can do burnouts rolling 60 / 70 mph! Lol!
Love the updates keep them coming!

If I wasn't so adamant about seeing the shaker scoop functional, I would take the 5.3L from the Cougar and stick it in the GTO with a turbo and drop the 6.2L into the Cougar....LOL

Andrew

David Sloan

03-30-2021, 06:20 PM

If I wasn't so adamant about seeing the shaker scoop functional, I would take the 5.3L from the Cougar and stick it in the GTO with a turbo and drop the 6.2L into the Cougar....LOL

Andrew
I get it! I wouldn’t want to change the way you are building the GTO. That car is an Icon! I bet we could figure out how to keep the shaker and still add a turbo! 🤔

andrewb70

03-31-2021, 07:40 AM

How does that age old question go?

"How do you eat an elephant?"

We all know, the answer: "One bite at a time."

Yesterday I went to the garage and just started looking around. A project of this size is pretty daunting, but I have to start somewhere. I saw my radiator sitting off to the side and then saw the Chevy Volt fans that I bought last summer at a local JY. So I thought I would see how the two go together.

Here is the set-up I've had on the car for almost 20 years. It is a huge BeCool radiator and dual SPAL fans.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-083.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCYCZ)

The fans attach with nice little brackets that capture the top and bottom of the radiator core.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-084.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCslY)

Once the old fans assembly was removed, I just placed the Volt fans on the core. I always thought I had 12" fans, but looking at the Volt dual 12" fans, it is clear that mine were either 10 or 11 inch fans.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-085.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCkXd)

The bottom of the Volt fans assembly is a little tab that was getting in the way.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-086.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCIoo)

I used a saw I had handy and just cut it off.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-087.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCdYi)

With the tab cut off, the fan assembly looks like it was made for this radiator. The fit is spot on!

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-088.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCCcp)

I proceeded to strip the Volt wiring loom to the bare essentials. You can see here a close-up of the round Yazaki connectors for each fan. Each plug has three terminals. There is a power and ground and a small PWM signal wire.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-089.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCTnR)

The shroud has many bosses where the loom can be secured for a neat installation.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/03/30/GTOV3-090.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pCqL7)

To mount the fan assembly, I am going to weld some tabs at the bottom to capture the lower tangs, and threaded bosses at the top where the fan assembly will bolt to the radiator.

The reason for going with these fans is that they are absolute monsters. Each fan is rated at 300 watts, which I am pretty sure is triple of what the old fans were. The other reason is that these fans are PWM controlled and there is no need for an external controller. The little signal wires will be connected directly to an output from my Holley Terminator X ECU, and I will program the fan speed based on coolant temperature, A/C pressure, and vehicle speed.

The radiator core is 27 3/8" wide and 18" tall, although I have some caps that protect the top and bottom of the core, making the effective available height 17 1/4" tall.

Andrew

Motown 454

03-31-2021, 08:15 AM

They have a lot more coverage, plus the extra power you should have plenty of cooling. Nice find.

Way2qwk4u

03-31-2021, 09:16 AM

ryeguy2006a

03-31-2021, 09:22 AM

Wow, you aren't kidding. Those fans look like they belong with that radiator.

andrewb70

03-31-2021, 10:20 AM

Andrew, What year Volt are these from. Im using a windstar fan. It works but is old school and has high amp draw. Would like to swap to something like this later. How were you planning on tying in to get the ac to control speed?

This one is from a 2015 Volt, but I think the range is 2011-2015.

I plan on installing a AC pressure sensor in my AC system, which will allow me to use it as a variable to determine fan speed.

Andrew

TanMan

03-31-2021, 07:25 PM

andrewb70

03-31-2021, 07:39 PM

I love that you’ve found an OE solution that’s affordable and does exactly what you need. You’ve got me thinking of trying something similar.

I’m curious, will you tie the signal wires together so that both fans are working in unison, driven off of a single Terminator output?

Yes. I am going to use a single output to drive both fans. With variable speed fan control, there is not need to run the fans separately.

Andrew

Peanut1959

04-02-2021, 10:07 AM

Thanks for the input, guys, and sorry to derail the conversation. Back to the build!

raustinss

04-02-2021, 11:52 AM

Andrew , whos or what car did the windshield wiper motor come from , does it park the wipers ? im assuming it has delay as well . certainly looks like a modern motor

andrewb70

04-02-2021, 02:17 PM

Andrew , whos or what car did the windshield wiper motor come from , does it park the wipers ? im assuming it has delay as well . certainly looks like a modern motor

That's a DSE kit from 20 years ago, without a park feature.

raustinss

04-02-2021, 06:38 PM

That's a DSE kit from 20 years ago, without a park feature.

thats what i was guessing and afraid of lol. Thanks

andrewb70

04-04-2021, 05:55 PM

The weather was really nice this weekend, so I decided to mess around with the engine a little bit. Popped the valve covers off just to do a visual inspection. Everything looked really good.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/04/GTOV3-091.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pqbNe)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/04/GTOV3-092.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pqhxD)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/04/GTOV3-093.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pqN97)

Pulled the spark plugs and they all look like this. Also pretty good.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/04/GTOV3-094.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pqz3R)

The counter sunk bolts that hold the engine mount adapter plates to the engine are going to be a problem. I got one loose, but the rest are stuck pretty good. I broke one 3/8" drive 6mm allen wrench in the process.

I am soaking them with some PB Blaster, so I hope that does the trick. If not, might have to add some heat.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/04/GTOV3-095.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pqOPH)

Andrew

David Sloan

04-05-2021, 04:03 AM

Nice update Andrew!
When you get them out, before reassembling put some anti seize on the threads of the bolts but not on the cone/ counter sunk part of the bolt . That will help next time you need to remove them.
If you can’t get them to come out because the Allen rounds out you can weld a nut to the head of the bolt and use a socket.
Keep the updates coming!

andrewb70

04-05-2021, 04:10 AM

David Sloan

04-05-2021, 06:28 AM

Gotcha! The cone is the very reason these type of bolts hold so well with out coming loose. It’s a love / hate relationship.��

droptop73

04-09-2021, 11:11 AM

I've found flathead capscrews can be difficult. If there is room I typically hit the sticky ones with a flat ended punch. It usually shocks them enough to get them loose.

Jeff

andrewb70

04-09-2021, 11:31 AM

I've found flathead capscrews can be difficult. If there is room I typically hit the sticky ones with a flat ended punch. It usually shocks them enough to get them loose.

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for the tip. I actually just tried one of those manual impact drivers, without much luck. Might be time for some heat.

Andrew

andrewb70

04-10-2021, 06:15 PM

Still haven't gotten the bolts out, but haven't really tried. Today was super busy with having to juggle four tuning customers, but I did did get a few more parts.

I have mentioned it before, but part of the goal is to get the AC system fully functioning. It is an older VA Super Gen II system, but I see no reason why it can't work as it should. Another thing that I want to do is fully integrate the AC system with the Holley ECU. Today I received some of the parts to do that.

This is a new drier that I got from BP Automotive. What makes it unique is that it has both a binary switch for the compressor and it has a GM pressure sensor.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/10/GTOV3-096.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p4X8n)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/10/GTOV3-097.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p4Gj8)

The binary switch will work as a safety for the compressor. The AC pressure switch will be an input to the Terminator X and will allow me to integrate AC as part of the cooling fan control.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/10/GTOV3-098.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p4zB3)

I also picked up these pressure sensor connectors from EFI Connection. These connectors are pretty standard for GM and aftermarket 5v pressure transducers. What makes these a little unique is the little lip that is molded at the end of the connector. I plan to modify a lot of the Holley EFI harness and part of the modification will be sealing off the sections of harness for the pressure sensors. These sections of harness will be encapsulated in Raychem Dr25 heat shrink tubing and the connectors will have heat shrink boots on them.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/10/GTOV3-099.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p4OP5)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/10/GTOV3-100.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p4N94)

Andrew

Motown 454

04-11-2021, 06:38 PM

It looks like a nice setup.

David Sloan

04-12-2021, 03:56 PM

Sweet thanks for sharing! I plan on using your build as I get to that point with the Elcamino. I’m sure when I get closer to that part of the build we will be taking more as you will get to tuning on it.

214Chevy

04-13-2021, 05:24 AM

I really like what's going on here...

andrewb70

04-13-2021, 05:32 AM

I really like what's going on here...

Thank you!

andrewb70

04-15-2021, 07:58 AM

Getting a box from Waytek is just as exciting as getting a box from Summit Racing...

I got a bunch of terminals, cable seals, relays, and a few other goodies.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-101.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/peE1m)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-102.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pem3N)

First up is this die set for my Waytek branded crimping tool. This die works on Weatherpack and Metripack (and GT) terminals up to 10 gauge. It crimps the wire and the cable seal in one operation. Can't wait to try it out!

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-103.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/peovD)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-104.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pex7P)

Next up are a couple of my favorite Bussmann panels. These are the dual bus variety. I plan to use one under the dash and add another one in the engine bay for headlights.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-105.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pewph)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-106.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pe05U)

Lastly are these heat shrink bulkhead passthroughs made by TE Connectivity. I plan to use the large one for the ECU harness and the smaller ones for anything else that needs to come through the firewall.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-107.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/peDNG)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/15/GTOV3-108.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pe5qw)

The large one is made for a 2" hole and the smaller ones are for .75" hole.

Andrew

Motown 454

04-15-2021, 09:17 AM

Those look nice, I've never seen anything like that before.

Larry R

04-15-2021, 01:42 PM

Great work and pre-build planning. Subscribed!

Way2qwk4u

04-15-2021, 04:00 PM

I like those bulkhead connections. I will need to come back and clean up my bay when done.

andrewb70

04-15-2021, 05:44 PM

Those look nice, I've never seen anything like that before.

I never have either. I ran across them in the Waytek catalog.

Great work and pre-build planning. Subscribed!

Thanks Larry! Good to have you here.

I like those bulkhead connections. I will need to come back and clean up my bay when done.

The big one seems a little bulky, but I am trim it up a little and I think it will work great.

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

04-18-2021, 01:03 PM

Andrew, are you wiring the entire car from scratch, or are those supplies just for the engine harness?

andrewb70

04-18-2021, 02:24 PM

Andrew, are you wiring the entire car from scratch, or are those supplies just for the engine harness?

Just for engine harness. The chassis wiring is in great shape.

FLYNAVY53

04-18-2021, 02:31 PM

Just for engine harness. The chassis wiring is in great shape.

Gotcha. I'm starting to look at wiring options for my Corvette....wish someone made a Smartwire style PDM that was a little more street car focused. I love the open architecture of the set up but dont know how well it would work for things like brake lights, turn signals, interior lights, radio, etc.

My refurbished Microsoft Surface tablet should be here this week, so I'll shoot you an email when it arrives to discussing getting on your schedule to take a look at the tune on my Suburban.

andrewb70

04-18-2021, 02:49 PM

Gotcha. I'm starting to look at wiring options for my Corvette....wish someone made a Smartwire style PDM that was a little more street car focused. I love the open architecture of the set up but dont know how well it would work for things like brake lights, turn signals, interior lights, radio, etc.

My refurbished Microsoft Surface tablet should be here this week, so I'll shoot you an email when it arrives to discussing getting on your schedule to take a look at the tune on my Suburban.

Sounds like a plan. I have been whispering in Holley's ear about doing a PDM for years.

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

04-18-2021, 03:04 PM

Sounds like a plan. I have been whispering in Holley's ear about doing a PDM for years.

Andrew

Yea, its crazy to me that nobody offers one yet....with all the options from Painless, Advanced, Ron Francis, etc that are all pretty much the same, you'd think someone would be leading the charge on a solid state PDM for street cars and hot rods.

andrewb70

04-19-2021, 02:37 PM

Today was a nice day, so I rolled the GTO out into the driveway and decided to tackle stropping down the rest of the engine. Made a quick trip to the parts store to rent a power steering pulley puller and a balancer puller.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-109.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p8onP)

Got the PS pulley off without any issues, which allowed me to take the alternator bracket off.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-110.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p8rLm)

My 20v Dewalt 1/2" impact gun made quick work of the balancer bolt and I managed to get the balancer off without any drama, although I apparently didn't get any pictures of that.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-111.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p8EmU)

Next it was time to tackle the stuck engine mount adapter plate bolts. I went to my local big box home improvement store and got a torch. Sadly, this did absolutely nothing. There was just too much metal to heat up and the block being aluminum dissipated the heat very quickly.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-112.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p8xhN)

It was time to get serious. I got my angle grinder out and installed a fresh cutoff disk and went to work. The plan was to slot the head of the bolts and also cut through the engine mount adapter plates. Once the cut was made, I used a chisel to split the engine mount plates to relieve the pressure against underside of the bolts. I was still able to use the 6mm allen wrench.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-113.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p8FCw)

This worked like a charm. Rinse and repeat 7 more times.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-114.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p80ZG)

I managed to mostly stay clear of the block, with only a couple of little nicks, but this won't be a problem.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-115.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p89fK)

All the bolts had plenty of anti-seize on them, which I liberally applied 12 years ago to avoid just this scenario.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-116.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p8Dla)

Good riddance!

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/19/GTOV3-117.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/p85ok)

Andrew

raustinss

04-19-2021, 03:11 PM

Were you trying to remove those bolts with hand tools or impact tools ? reason I ask is I went thru 3,4 sockets when I took apart my Z06 calipers

andrewb70

04-19-2021, 06:09 PM

Were you trying to remove those bolts with hand tools or impact tools ? reason I ask is I went thru 3,4 sockets when I took apart my Z06 calipers

I tried not my little Dewalt impact and hand tools. First one I broke was by hand. It's only a 6mm allen, so it can't take a lot.

Andrew

SSLance

04-20-2021, 05:46 AM

Nicely done. I wonder if the heat from the cut off wheel helped break them free as well. Hope you didn't leave anything outside overnight!!

raustinss

04-20-2021, 01:56 PM

I want to think a larger torch with either wax or a pentrating oil and some time to let it cool to allow thermal upset to take place those bolt would have come out, hindsight lol

andrewb70

04-20-2021, 02:13 PM

I want to think a larger torch with either wax or a pentrating oil and some time to let it cool to allow thermal upset to take place those bolt would have come out, hindsight lol

Maybe...but I didn't have any other torch besides the map gas torch that I bought, thinking it would be enough. I am not using those plates again, so they are already in the garbage pile.

protour_chevelle

04-21-2021, 06:23 AM

Does your powersteering pump have the earls fitting?

andrewb70

04-21-2021, 06:39 AM

Does your powersteering pump have the earls fitting?

Yes. The hose clears the pulley by about .100"

protour_chevelle

04-21-2021, 06:51 AM

Yes. The hose clears the pulley by about .100"

Thanks! I was curious if there was another one on the market but I'll pick up the earls unit. Good to know about clearance!

andrewb70

04-21-2021, 07:15 AM

Thanks! I was curious if there was another one on the market but I'll pick up the earls unit. Good to know about clearance!

Many people use the longer fittings, like offered by DSE, but I've not had clearance issues. My hoses were made by a local industrial hydraulic hose company.

andrewb70

04-23-2021, 11:15 AM

What in the world is happening here? :-)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/23/GTOV3-118.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRDQc)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/23/GTOV3-119.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRQW8)

Johnny is very curious...

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/23/GTOV3-120.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pR9Ht)

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

04-23-2021, 03:05 PM

This is going to be fun to watch!

David Sloan

04-24-2021, 03:31 AM

Ok !
Waiting patiently!:)

SSLance

04-25-2021, 09:12 AM

Johnny is so cool...

andrewb70

04-25-2021, 06:28 PM

Today was a pretty productive day in the garage. The big goal was to clear out some stuff out and make better use of the limited space that I have. The first order of business was to get the QuickJacks off the floor. I ordered the wall mounting brackets when I bought the QuickJacks and they worked very well.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-121.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRPUp)

The next step was to clear out the space on the right side of the garage, so the work bench is more accessible without having to move the car out on the driveway.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-122.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRsQd)

Luckily, many of the things in the garage are on casters, so things are easy to move around. The big bench got moved from the left side of the car and the tool box went in its place.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-123.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRU4o)

This gives me fairly decent space on either side of the car, and a nice area to the right, where I can work on the engine and anything else that will come up.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-124.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRTSi)

I then spent some time with some degreaser and cleaned up the block. It turned out pretty well. Tomorrow I will get some acetone and go over the block again.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-125.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRqFY)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-126.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pR4GR)

FedEx also made a delivery today from Summit Racing. I got the Summit "Ghost" cam with some dual valve springs and matching pushrods.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-127.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pRLM7)

I also got a Burgeson 12:1 steering box.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-128.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pReYH)

It was a long day for Johnny. #lifeishard

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/25/GTOV3-129.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pR1Re)

Andrew

Motown 454

04-25-2021, 06:33 PM

Poor Johnny you worked him too hard. Nice pile of parts.

David Sloan

04-26-2021, 04:15 AM

protour_chevelle

04-26-2021, 07:02 AM

Looking good Andrew!
I made it a rule to put everything on wheels,work bench,shelf’s,air compressor, everything.
It makes my space better for doing different things. I also use up as much wall space for storage as possible, things like jack stands that would normally be on the floor in the way.187618187619

I did shelves secured to the wall and a chain to the ceiling for elevated shelving. Best thing I ever did. Gets everything up higher, you gain tons of work space! I totally agree, make it so it hangs on the wall, get it off the ground!

andrewb70

04-26-2021, 07:15 AM

Thanks for the tips!

Larry R

04-26-2021, 02:50 PM

I second your use of casters, even I hav a third stall, I put casters on almost every thing I have
Garage looks good. Larry

Tsaints1115

04-26-2021, 04:46 PM

If anyone does any cabinets I recommend mounting them with cleats. If you need to move them in the future for any changes in the garage you can just empty them and move them and tap them back down. Easy Peasy

andrewb70

04-27-2021, 07:35 AM

Pulled the rockers, push rods and spark plugs in order to proceed with the cam swap.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-130.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pl408)

I also dropped the oil pan so that when I rotate the engine upside down, whatever oil was in the pan didn't start dripping out all over the place.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-131.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/plWuc)

Rotated the crank so that #1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-132.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pl1z3)

The crank and cam gears are dot to dot and the dowel pin is at 3 o'clock.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-133.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/plLTn)

Pulled the oil pump off and the cam gear. Used a long water pump bolt to help pull the cam.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-134.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pl8r4)

LS7 cam on the left, Summit "ghost" cam on the right.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-135.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/plJk5)

Having the engine upside down prevents the lifters from dropping down. Also checked the cam bearings and they looked good.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-136.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/plagT)

Before installing the new cam, I wiped it down with acetone and then lubed it up with motor oil.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-137.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/plv7E)

Cam gear, timing chain, and chain guide installed. With the engine upside down, the dowel is at the 9 o'clock position.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-138.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/plRvS)

Next up is the oil pan installation.

Andrew

andrewb70

04-27-2021, 02:03 PM

I have been taking a ton of pictures along the way, and hopefully y'all won't mind the details.

With the AutoKraft pan, I was able to use a full length (truck style) windage tray. You can see in this picture how the windage tray interferes with the new Holley pickup tube.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-139.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/paDNn)

I took it off for modifications. (more on this later)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-140jpg.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/paQx3)

I also picked up the 302-12 road race baffle kit. Not that I plan to do a lot of racing with this car, but it is always good to have a pan with good oil control.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-141.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pam3t)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-142.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pa09c)

It's a very nice piece with thoughtfully designed trap doors do keep the pickup tube covered with oil as much as possible.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-143.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pa5q8)

Andrew

andrewb70

04-27-2021, 02:34 PM

Holley provided an instruction sheet with the 302-3 oil pan, including a dimensional drawing as to how the windage tray trimming was to be done.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-144.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pafBZ)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-145.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pak9d)

After some quality time with the whizzwheelofdeath, the windage tray was chopped.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-146.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/patjT)

Here you can see how the pickup tube fits snugly in the space created and the flange sits flush against the oil pump.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-147.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/paA8E)

Andrew

andrewb70

04-27-2021, 02:50 PM

Last post of the day, which brings us to the end of the day, yesterday...

With much enthusiasm, I popped the oil pan into place, only to find it was hanging up on something. There is no gasket, obviously, but the gasket is only about 1/8".

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-148.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/paCdp)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-149.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/paUxY)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-150.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pasNi)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/27/GTOV3-151.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/paIPo)

Nothing was jumping out at me, so instead of beating my head against the wall, I went inside the house and had a few bourbons...

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

04-27-2021, 03:01 PM

Bourbon fixes everything....its the real "liquid wrench"

andrewb70

04-28-2021, 01:14 PM

Yesterday morning I tackled the oil pan issue with renewed enthusiasm. I got the big guns out to figure out where exactly the interference was. I stuck some play doh on the 3 likely places and placed the pan on the engine.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-152.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvhEn)

The pick-up tube clearance looks good.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-153.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvus3)

The front of the pick-up tube also looks good.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-154.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvNDt)

Houston, we have a problem.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-155.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvbO8)

Turn out it was #usererror. I didn't trim back the windage tray far enough in this area. So after a few minutes of quality time with the whizzwheelofdeath, I had enough clearance that the pan sat flat against the engine block, even without a oil pan gasket.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-156.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvOWc)

Andrew

rixtrix1

04-28-2021, 04:15 PM

Looks like you've got some really cool upgrades to install!

andrewb70

04-28-2021, 05:52 PM

With the windage tray properly trimmed, the oilpan now sat flat against the block. The addition of the gasket raised it up a little higher, so I was confident that nothing was touching.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-157.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pv2QZ)

Then it was time to focus on the front cover. I purchased some nifty alignment tools when I built the Cougar, which I didn't think I would use again, but they sure came in handy here. I popped the old seal out of the cover and used the alignment tool to center the front cover on the crank.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-158.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvcJT)

With the front cover centered, I used a straight edge to align the cover with the block and snugged up the bolts.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-159.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvpHE)

Now that the front cover was tightened down against the block, I loosely installed a new front seal.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-160.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvVAS)

The alignment tool also serves as the perfect installation tool for the front seal. Using a dead blow hammer, I tapped it in all the way.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-161.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvHK5)

Sorted....

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-162.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvKWd)

Andrew

andrewb70

04-28-2021, 07:39 PM

I used some Permatex Gray to seal the corners of the pan.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-163.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvrEi)

Just a little dab on the corners where the front and rear covers meet the block and the oil pan. With a new Fel-pro oil pan gasket.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-164.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvEGp)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-165.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvoSo)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-166.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvFKR)

Lastly, the turbo oil drain ports were sealed off with the supplied plugs and some Earl's thread sealer.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/04/28/GTOV3-167.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvwsY)

That brings us up to date and wraps up the bottom of the engine. Next time I am out in the garage I plan to flip it over and check which push rods give me the best preload. Then it is time to clean up the intake manifold and start mocking up the engine harness.

Andrew

syborg tt

05-01-2021, 04:30 AM

Wow is all I can say.

Thank you for the detailed post as I learned a bunch.

andrewb70

05-01-2021, 06:06 AM

Wow is all I can say.

Thank you for the detailed post as I learned a bunch.

Hey Marty,

When are we getting your Camaro fired up?

Andrew

andrewb70

05-01-2021, 09:01 AM

Yesterday I sorted out the push rod situation.

I started the check preload on #1 cylinder and things didn't add up, because as I tightened the rocker bolt the valves started to open...hum...:hmm:

Then I remembered that something similar was happening when I did the cam install on the Cougar. A little more digging around and consulting a buddy that knows more about this than I do, and it all started to make sense.

So in fact, when the cam and crank are lined up dot to dot, this is #1 cylinder on the overlap stroke. My buddy confirmed this. Since #1 is on overlap, this means that #6 is on the compression stroke.

Here you can clearly see that the #1 lifters are not on the base circle.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/01/GTOV3-168.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvyUi)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/01/GTOV3-169.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvlLZ)

Here is a comparison between the old 7.400" pushrods on the right and the Summit 7.425" pushrods on the left. The tips appear to be a little smaller on the Summit pushrods, so I think their effective length falls somewhere between 7.400" and 7.425". None of this really matters because what I am after is 1.5 turns from zero lash to full torque spec on the rocker bolts.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/01/GTOV3-170.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvvbd)

I made some marks on the balancer bolt for reference. I really should have done this before I installed the front cover. :hammer:

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/01/GTOV3-171.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvRnE)

In any case, I started with #6, and the Summit Racing 11/32 7.425" pushrods ended up giving me the best preload.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/01/GTOV3-172.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pvimo)

Then I rotated the engine 90 degrees and followed the firing order for all subsequent cylinders. Once I got the technique down for finding zero lash, the preload readings were pretty consistent with 1.5 turns on the intake valves and about 1.6 turns on the exhaust valves.

I am calling that done and sorted.

Andrew

syborg tt

05-02-2021, 08:19 AM

Hey Marty,

When are we getting your Camaro fired up?

Andrew

I’m getting closer and closer ever day. If I wasn’t so anal when it comes to making things look neat and tidy I could have been started weeks ago.

Oh and like you I added a few extra things like the Holley Pro Dash.

andrewb70

05-02-2021, 06:05 PM

I’m getting closer and closer ever day. If I wasn’t so anal when it comes to making things look neat and tidy I could have been started weeks ago.

Oh and like you I added a few extra things like the Holley Pro Dash.

Nice!

Let me know when you're ready to fire it up and I'll make sure that goes smoothly. The base tunes that Holley provides are going to be way too rich.

Andrew

andrewb70

05-02-2021, 06:13 PM

It feels good to be putting stuff back together instead of taking things apart.

This is a new LS3 style valley cover. I really like the internal baffling to keep oil out of the intake.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/02/GTOV3-173.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pizYR)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/02/GTOV3-174.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piXXY)

These are the tall Holley valve covers in red. These will add a touch of color and the red is almost a perfect match to the color of the car.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/02/GTOV3-175.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piZop)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/02/GTOV3-176.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piNl7)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/02/GTOV3-177.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piScH)

Just cleaned up the coils and will probably get some ARP stainless bots for the coils.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/02/GTOV3-178.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pibne)

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

05-03-2021, 02:36 AM

andrewb70

05-03-2021, 06:10 AM

Andrew, FWIW, those hose barb fittings in the Holley valve covers pull right out. The hole is the exact size needed for a 1/8 NPT tap. I tapped the holes in mine, then used 1/8 NPT to -6 fittings in the valve covers. Completely unnecessary, I just hate hose clamps.

Thanks for the tip! One of those will stay capped off and the other will go to the air filter base. It's just a fresh air intake into the crank case, so there isn't a lot of pressure on those hoses. A 3/8" hose fits pretty snug over those nipples, and a clamp is generally not required.

Andrew

FLYNAVY53

05-03-2021, 06:45 AM

yea, completely unnecessary, but I had the fittings so I figured why not...it also allowed me to turn the fitting on the passenger side cover to face aft which cleaned it up a bit.

188042188043188044188045

gto406

05-03-2021, 04:40 PM

Yea, its crazy to me that nobody offers one yet....with all the options from Painless, Advanced, Ron Francis, etc that are all pretty much the same, you'd think someone would be leading the charge on a solid state PDM for street cars and hot rods.

Gents, sorry PDM - unable to decode the acronym? I am fairly certain you don’t mean ‘Passenger Door Module’ [emoji16]

Hopefully, someone can describe what that is.

Love the bulkhead connectors Andrew!

Thanks in advance!
BR/Brian.

FLYNAVY53

05-03-2021, 04:42 PM

Power Distribution Module.....Race Pack Smartwire is a good example if you want to go down the Google rabbit hole, but generally more suited to racing applications.

andrewb70

05-03-2021, 06:40 PM

Ordered a balancer installed tool the other day and it came this morning. So I was able to install the hub of the ATI balancer that comes with the deluxe Holley mid-mount accessory drive kit.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/03/GTOV3-179.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pingS)

Then the balancer ring gets bolted to the hub. The ATI balancer is a really nice piece.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/03/GTOV3-180.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piDa5)

I didn't torque the balancer bolt yet, and I am not exactly sure if it is on all the way. This was as far as it would go with the installer tool. Hopefully it is fully seated.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/03/GTOV3-181.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pi0Zn)

Also got new injector 0-rings...

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/03/GTOV3-182.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pi5r3)

and new intake manifold gaskets. The old ones were in good shape, but I figured it can't hurt.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/03/GTOV3-183.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pi9f4)

The intake manifold cleaned up nicely...

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/03/GTOV3-184.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pi66T)

Andrew

andrewb70

05-04-2021, 08:55 AM

This is the lube that I like to use for injector o-rings.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-185.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piWuD)

Also received some ARP stainless header bolts.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-186.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piCg7)

Added an Earl's fuel rail adapter. I like this style because it has metal retaining tabs inside and a secondary retention clip.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-187.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piqee)

Looks like Holley revised their injector harness and they are now adding heat shrink labels on the cylinders.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-188.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piT7H)

I played around with different routing for the injector harness and I like something like this, on the inside of the rail. I have some different P clamps coming to secure the harness to the studs that hold the fuel rail.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-189.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pisaR)

I didn't like how the injectors had about 4 inched of exposed wire, so I used some Tessa harness tape to protect them a little more. Plus this makes the wires blend in.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-190.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pi45h)

The coil harness will be retained by the little clips on the rails. I have an assortment of those clips on the way.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/04/GTOV3-191.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/piLTP)

Andrew

David Sloan

05-04-2021, 10:33 AM

Nice Updates!
The wiring is looking good!

ryeguy2006a

05-04-2021, 11:34 AM

Very clean. Nice work Andrew. Those heat shrink labels on the injectors is a nice touch.

andrewb70

05-04-2021, 11:57 AM

Very clean. Nice work Andrew. Those heat shrink labels on the injectors is a nice touch.

That's all stock Holley harness. I don't know when they started doing that.

I need to lay the whole harness on the engine and figure out the rest. The MAP sensor lead has to go to the front...cam sensor to the front...I also need to add the AC compressor and alternator lead into the harness.

Andrew

Jonathonar89

05-04-2021, 04:51 PM

Nice work. I’d love to come check out the car in person one day. You’re in Wisconsin if I recall? I’m just over the border in Illinois.

andrewb70

05-04-2021, 05:23 PM

Nice work. I’d love to come check out the car in person one day. You’re in Wisconsin if I recall? I’m just over the border in Illinois.

I am in the Kansas City area. You're still welcome to come for a visit :-)

Andrew

Jonathonar89

05-05-2021, 06:50 PM

I am in the Kansas City area. You're still welcome to come for a visit :-)

Andrew

That’s a cruise for me haha! My friend in the military was driving to my area on the weekends for the past few months. 7-8hr but he would do it to be with family and friends. He just moved to a different location so no more of that.

andrewb70

05-06-2021, 07:17 AM

I have been making slow progress with the wiring. Mostly looking at things and planning things. The goal is to make the wiring as tidy as possible, while still being accessible for service. I also don't want any wires to be randomly hanging off the engine, so everything that goes to the engine must come through the EFI harness.

This is the hexapus (if that is not a word, it should be) on the driver's side of the Terminator X harness. It extends forward and contains the CTS, cam sensor, TPS, IAC, fuel pressure, and MAT sensor plugs. CTS, MAT, and cam sensors are workable. The TPS and IAC need to be eliminated, and the fuel pressure needs to be stripped out and moved all the way to the rear of the engine. I also need to add the connector for the alternator for the L and S terminals, and route them all the way through into the passenger compartment.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-192.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyndN)

Recently, I was looking through the Delphi (Aptive) catalog and I spotted a few little items that I had never really paid much attention to.

This is a typical Metripack 150 connector. This particular one is for the cam sensor. The white clip is called a TPA (terminal position assurance).

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-193.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyttG)

The part pictured below is also a TPA, but it is called a conduit TPA. It serves the same function as a regular TPA, but it has an added enclosure to protect the exposed wires after they exit the connector. I am going to use 4:1 heat shrink tubing to completely seal off some of the more sensitive connectors.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-194.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyj2w)

This is the MAP sensor, also with the conduit TPA.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-196.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyA8k)

There is a lot happening on the passenger side in terms of wiring. There are the injectors and the coils, and also the shielded cable for the DBW throttle body and three wires for the MAP sensor. I am waiting on some supplies to arrive before I get things fully sorted here.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-195.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/py6iU)

I also mocked up the Holley mid-mount main casting. This is the bracket that holds all of the accessories in place. I wanted to see what kind of room I have for routing parts of the harness.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-197.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyfBK)

There is a nice path and clearance for the cam sensor.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-198.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyIPt)

I also mocked up the shaker scoop assembly. Of course with it in place, the wiring is barely visible, but I know it will be good, even if it is not clearly visible.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-199.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pysOc)

The last area of concern is the clearance between the intake tube and the AC compressor. I think it will be a tight fit, based on the pictures of a fully assembled mid-mount. If there is interference, I will deal with that later.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/06/GTOV3-200.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/pyk9a)

That's all for now.

Andrew

Larry R

05-06-2021, 09:35 AM

Looking good, Andrew

Way2qwk4u

05-06-2021, 09:36 AM

Looking good.

Peanut1959

05-06-2021, 02:36 PM

Great updates with lots of photos and detailed explanations. Well done!

FLYNAVY53

05-06-2021, 03:10 PM

Is it relatively easy to swap out the conduit TPA without de-pinning the connector?

lsx70

05-06-2021, 04:22 PM

Looks great! I love the intake/air cleaner combination

andrewb70

05-06-2021, 05:18 PM

Looking good, Andrew

Looking good.

Great updates with lots of photos and detailed explanations. Well done!

Is it relatively easy to swap out the conduit TPA without de-pinning the connector?

Looks great! I love the intake/air cleaner combination

Thanks everyone!

The conduit TPA just slips in place just like a regular TPA. You don't have to take the terminals out.

Andrew

andrewb70

05-08-2021, 07:15 PM

Before making any cuts to the harness, I needed to establish its best position relative to the engine. Since the hole for the harness is offset to the driver's side slightly, it made sense that the harness needs to come from that direction.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-209.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2GjUo)

The determining factor was also the crank sensor lead, which I really don't want to modify, because it is a shielded cable. I also used a bolt/stud that I had left over from doing the Cougar. I used a P clamp on it to keep the knock sensor out of the way of the headers.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-208.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2G7Fd)

I unwrapped the driver's side hexapus. The TPS and the IAC are not needed, but I may repurpose two of them for the alternator L and S terminals.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-201.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2G0R5)

Summit Racing had some Deutsche connectors and terminals in stock. These are going to replace the coil harness connectors and the injector connector. There will be an ODD and EVEN injector connector and a ODD and EVEN coil connector.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-202.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2GDQT)

I also decided that I was going to build my own injector harness. The Holley one was OK, but I can make it better.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-203.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2GFM3)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-204.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2G9VS)

I played around with different routing paths.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-205.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2GmA4)

Ultimately I decided that the injectors should run along with the coil sub harness.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-206.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2GQ4E)

It's all a bit of a mess still, but this is the basic layout. The fuel rails have little tabs on them with holes, which are designed to hold harness clips. I bought an assortment of harness clips, which you can see on the rails.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/08/GTOV3-207.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2G6bZ)

Andrew

andrewb70

05-12-2021, 09:14 AM

This is my current thinking to tuck away the coil and the injector connectors. There is enough room at the back of the heads to attach little brackets and hang the connectors there. This will tuck them out of sight, but also make them fairly accessible for service. I have more parts on the way from wirecare.com to make it all work.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-210.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2DwT5)

I mocked up the alternator, just to see how it fits and see how the wiring for it has to be routed. The alternator need two wires, and instead of adding wires to the harness, I will repurpose two of the unused IAC wires.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-211.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2DEzS)

I also mocked up the AC compressor, which needs to have a wire added for it. I am hesitant to use one of the other IAC wires, because they are 20 gauge and that may not be enough for the compressor.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-212.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2DFrT)

I also mocked up some P-clamps to hold the DBW and the MAP sensor wires. I am still debating if I like this or not. I also have some small nylon P-clamps which I might try in that location.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-213.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2Dr04)

I also picked up a 5th Gen Camaro starter. I like it because it has mounting tabs for a heat shield and uses a plug for the solenoid, instead of a ring terminal. The starter wire will run along with the crank sensor wire.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-214.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2Dou3)

I also got a couple of Rife sensors for the coolant and air temps. These are supposed to be faster reacting than regular sensors.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-215.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2D0vZ)

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-216.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2DmkE)

Rife is owned by The Brake Man brakes, and I saw they have a very cleverly designed line lock solenoid. It accepts both SAE double flare connections or AN-3, and also comes with a tidy Deutsche connector.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2021/05/12/GTOV3-217.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/2D9gd)

My buddy Tom is flying in from Alabama this weekend and our big project is to bolt on all of the Ridetech components. Wish us luck!

Andrew