GMPP Fuse Box and AWW Harness Power Connections in 69 Camaro

[jorgezee1]

Hello,

I am starting the layout for rewiring my 69 camaro with a LS3 GMPP Connect and Cruise and a AWW update harness.

Configuration Notes: LS3/T56, GMPP Harness, AWW update harness, Battery will remain up front, GMPP Junction box will be installed on the inner fender near battery.

I have a question and looking for recommendations for main power to the AWW harness from the GMPP fuse box vs the Starter.

AWW instruction would like you to connect the Alternator power wire to the Starter lug and the Engine bulkhead connector to the same lug. Both of these have fusible links.

The GMPP box has 3 lugs for power. a side post and two top post labeled A and B.

In the GMPP instruction I will be going directly from the battery to the GMPP box with a 8 gauge wire and I will use the side terminal in the GMPP box.

Could I just use the two other lugs as a junction point for the AWW harness and omit the Starter junction? I would like to get your opinion or what others have done.

[dhutton]

Hello,

I am starting the layout for rewiring my 69 camaro with a LS3 GMPP Connect and Cruise and a AWW update harness.

Configuration Notes: LS3/T56, GMPP Harness, AWW update harness, Battery will remain up front, GMPP Junction box will be installed on the inner fender near battery.

I have a question and looking for recommendations for main power to the AWW harness from the GMPP fuse box vs the Starter.

AWW instruction would like you to connect the Alternator power wire to the Starter lug and the Engine bulkhead connector to the same lug. Both of these have fusible links.

The GMPP box has 3 lugs for power. a side post and two top post labeled A and B.

In the GMPP instruction I will be going directly from the battery to the GMPP box with a 8 gauge wire and I will use the side terminal in the GMPP box.

Could I just use the two other lugs as a junction point for the AWW harness and omit the Starter junction? I would like to get your opinion or what others have done.
I would not do that. Keep potentially noisy circuits away from the GMPP power. Also the current rating of those GMPP studs is likely not specified.

Don

[jorgezee1]

Don,

Thanks for the feedback! Would you recommend I just follow the AAW diagram and leave teh Alt and bulkhead connector to the LS3 starter lug? Or is there a better method?

[jorgezee1]

I have a spare 98 Chevy C1500 engine harness with fuse box and it appears to be identical to my GMPP box from the connect and cruise. These boxes have quite a few rather large gauge wires. The box seems it would house a fair amount of circuits. I am just try to see if I can use this huge GMPP box for other things. I will note that the 98 truck harness does not have anything connected to the two lugs only the side post lug going directly to the battery. The 98 truck Alternator also just goes directly to the battery.

Would it work if I did the following.

ALT to BAT ( 6 gauge)
BAT to GMPP Box (8 Gauge)
Use a 50AMP ACC 1 Fuse from the GMPP box to power the bulkhead connector (10 Gauge stock AAW wire)

Would this still introduce noise and not be correct?

[badazz81z28]

I kept mine separate...I have a heavy gauge wire coming from the battery that is spliced into each harnesses main power feed. Which is all spliced together with the alternator. My battery is in the trunk, so they are not directly connected to the battery per-se. The lugs on the GMPP box are more for fused power for the fans...not your vehicle harness.

[dhutton]

Don,

Thanks for the feedback! Would you recommend I just follow the AAW diagram and leave teh Alt and bulkhead connector to the LS3 starter lug? Or is there a better method?
Yes I would follow the instructions.

Don

[jorgezee1]

I kept mine separate...I have a heavy gauge wire coming from the battery that is spliced into each harnesses main power feed. Which is all spliced together with the alternator. My battery is in the trunk, so they are not directly connected to the battery per-se. The lugs on the GMPP box are more for fused power for the fans...not your vehicle harness.

Did you add fuses in between the each power feed and the battery or is it direct?

OK, I guess I have to stop trying to use the GMPP box for anything but the LS3 engine swap and fans as it seems like it may not handle the power or cause issues.

I guess I should state what I am trying to solve or not really solve but clean up.

I was trying to eliminate the amount of power cables directly to the battery or to the starter lug and utilize what I thought was a power distribution box (GMPP box) like what the was done on the older Vortec equipped truck/vans (basically try to copy my C1500 pickup engine harness power wires).

Seems like I need to make a side post battery terminal with extra wires or a Junction box next to the battery to accept the main bulkhead harness, GMPP box, ALT and than just have the main starter wire direct.

[jorgezee1]

Here is a picture of the 98 Truck box, basically exactly the same.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1772-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/myNqhVB)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1779-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/QQywdDg)

I would like to place the GMPP box near the Battery if possible. Not as cool as hiding everything, but I really just want everything easily accessible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1777-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/vVmnmcw)

[jorgezee1]

Yes I would follow the instructions.

Don


Thanks Don, I think now I am just trying to think there was a better way.
It also seems like the AAW updated their instructions as well. The have a new version ("Second Design") of the 500686 Camaro harness that does not go direct to the starter.

I have the 1st version that goes to the starter but after googling this I found they have a revised setup going to a fuse block with 6 GA wires instead of going to the starter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/5006861969ChevyCamaroClassicUpdateKitFir-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/c1WnZfP)

Adding Download links:

1st Design:
https://smhttp-ssl-87263.nexcesscdn.net/media/productattachments/files/500686_1969_Chevy_Camaro_Classic_Update_Kit_First_ Design_1_1.pdf

2nd Design:
https://smhttp-ssl-87263.nexcesscdn.net/media/productattachments/files/500686_69_Chevy_Camaro_Classic_Update_Second_Desig n_1_1.pdf

[dhutton]

Those two layouts are essentially the same imho. One is just fused versus fusible links. The newer system also enables higher current.

Don

[jorgezee1]

Those two layouts are essentially the same imho. One is just fused versus fusible links. The newer system also enables higher current.

Don

Thanks Don.

I prefer the revised setup. My goal was to take the cables away from being installed on the starter. This will actually do that. I also need to figure out if I should up the wire from the Holley Alternator. I was thinking 6ga, but maybe 4ga would be better? The AAW kit uses a 8ga. Seems like most builds are using larger gauge wire for the Alternator.

I guess I’m referring to what may be called the Big 3 upgrade.

[dhutton]

Alternator wire should size should be based on alternator capacity. It never hurts to go too big.

Don

[badazz81z28]

Did you add fuses in between the each power feed and the battery or is it direct?

OK, I guess I have to stop trying to use the GMPP box for anything but the LS3 engine swap and fans as it seems like it may not handle the power or cause issues.

I guess I should state what I am trying to solve or not really solve but clean up.

I was trying to eliminate the amount of power cables directly to the battery or to the starter lug and utilize what I thought was a power distribution box (GMPP box) like what the was done on the older Vortec equipped truck/vans (basically try to copy my C1500 pickup engine harness power wires).

Seems like I need to make a side post battery terminal with extra wires or a Junction box next to the battery to accept the main bulkhead harness, GMPP box, ALT and than just have the main starter wire direct.

The cable that feed both harnesses fused. I think it's a 150amp fuse. Here a sketch.181721

[jorgezee1]

Guys is it recommended practice to put the battery in the trunk? I know this is becoming more OEM practice and Hot Rodder’s that want to lose front nose weight.

Is there any other benefit aside from weight savings? It seems to do so we would add a lot more wires and complexity.
I’m just trying to understand if it makes sense for me to do the change now while I’m trying to figure out how to wire the car. The car is not being tracked, nor going to drive it to its limits. I just want to cruise around my home and work and enjoy it.

[badazz81z28]

Guys is it recommended practice to put the battery in the trunk? I know this is becoming more OEM practice and Hot Rodder’s that want to lose front nose weight.

Is there any other benefit aside from weight savings? It seems to do so we would add a lot more wires and complexity.
I’m just trying to understand if it makes sense for me to do the change now while I’m trying to figure out how to wire the car. The car is not being tracked, nor going to drive it to its limits. I just want to cruise around my home and work and enjoy it.


People do move the battery to the trunk to help with weight distribution and in some cases a necessity for space. Me personally, my battery is in the trunk for space. My oil tank is located where the battery was. There was really no other place to put it that would accommodate the length and girth of it. My intake and filter is on the driver side...so the battery had to go somewhere. I would have left it in the engine bay if I could have.

[jorgezee1]

Thank you for your input and help guys!

I believe I have a better idea of how to wire the power side of the system. I hope to be able to use some spare parts I have laying around for this configuration.

Battery will remain in the stock location.
Optima 34/78 Yellow top
I will be using a GM Starter Cable from a LQ based truck. Likely I will shorten it. I like the red box as a another option for power distribution if needed, but I can omit it of it becomes to cluttered.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1795-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/kgdNc4D)

The cable has a red power box installed on it. I will tap into this and use it to feed the GMPP box. I bought a set Megafuse holders on ebay off a Jaguar JX8.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/JaguarXJ8RearTrunkTerminalFuseBoxMegafus-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/qYj2ny6)

Battery directly to the starter
Starter to MegaFuse
Alternator will connect to 175 AMP Megafuse.
AAW Harness with 175 AMP Megafuse.
GMPP to Red Bat box via - Direct, MegaFuse or Fuseable link?

Here is an Example:

This example only has one megafuse, but I would have two.
The Battery cable is a single cable going to the starter with a box crimped in the center of it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1797JPGandGMPPFuseBoxandAWWHarnessPow-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/VMr08Vd)

Placement will be something like this in the Camaro:
All the existing AC lines, heater lines and overflow will not be there. I will be rerouting them.
I do have a Vintage air kit, but still debating if I should just use the OE AC since everything functions and already is converted to R134.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1808-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/tZ2gDNN)


Any feedback on this setup?

[dhutton]

That should be fine imho.

Don

[jorgezee1]

Don, what would be considered a noisy circuit?

I would like to use the GMPP box to power my Headlight relays. I am trying to understand what should not go into the GMPP box.


I modified the GMPP box a bit and added the PCM of NC fan control and AC bump. I took apart my spare truck harness and used some of the connectors to add some circuits.
I would like to use this to power the Horn relay and headlight relays, but I will wait for experts to chime in.

The PCM of NC kit is really nice and straight forward to install. I ran into a issue with one of their cables crimped with the wrong terminal. I called them and they are sending me a correct wire. For now I modified the one I had to verify the relays and everything was working.

Unmodified GMPP box

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://ibb.co/2MNNKps)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1810-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/k8BfSHq)

PCM of NC kit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1815-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/N1PgBrb)

Wrong connector

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1824-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZxkYZk6)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1821-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/mqHm2Xm)

Modified GMPP Box with added circuits

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1818-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/48WHHnG)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1819-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/3ykT6sr)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1829-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/w0KnNCC)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1839-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/bmSHZTk)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1832-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/XjWZ4xh)

PCM of NC references:

https://www.pcmofnc.com/product/gmpp-harness-electric-fan-kit-3/

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/127277-GMPP-Harness-with-Vintage-Air-and-Dual-Electric-Fans

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/77649-icemanrd19-67-camaro/page12

[dhutton]

Should be ok but honestly I don’t connect anything to the ECM power that doesn’t need to be there. One of those risk/benefit analysis things...

Don

[andrewb70]

Link for PCM of NC?

Andrew

[badazz81z28]

Do you have a source for the pins? I would like to buy some....

[dhutton]

Link for PCM of NC?

Andrew
https://www.pcmofnc.com/product-category/ls-powered-hot-rod/cooling-system-19/

Don

[jorgezee1]

Thanks Don, I will be cautious on what I run off of this box. Headlight relays and horn relays are the last two item in the engine side I need to get power to.

I think I am just about ready to close everything up. I just finished running the RLO wire. Power from the GMPP box and another wire to the ECU connector.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://ibb.co/HDbchGn)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://ibb.co/WVDN6k8)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://ibb.co/MnwKBBv)

Used this thread as a reference: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/131892-GMPP-E67-PCM-Reverse-Lockout-Wiring

I think last is how do I run the fuel pump wire to the tank. Should I run the wire back through the AAW bulkhead connector through the inside car or do I run the cable underneath the car following the fuel line?

[jorgezee1]

Do you have a source for the pins? I would like to buy some....

I do not have any part numbers for the pins. I can ask PCM of NC if they would share the part numbers with me.

As for adding circuits. I dissembled an old truck harness I had laying around and reused the per-terminated pins. I have some spare wires I am not using, you are welcome to them if you like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://ibb.co/9bYytqK)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1850-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/w70GcdM)

The pins with wings are used as the fused leads and the other without the wings are connectors for the relay. Aside from the wings that help keep the connector locked into place by the plastic box inserts, there are two tabs that extend to the tip of the connector. If you file down/cut the two tabs on the side they can be used on the fused leads as well. They will seat and lock into place in the box. That was my temp fix until I get the new wire from PCM of NC.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1852-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/TLYSRfV)

[jorgezee1]

badazz81z28 I also have a e38 2012 Camaro LS3/tr6060 harness I stripped to get the RLO wiring and ecu pin. I just reverse feed the ECU wire with per-terminated pin into the loom and soldered the connection between the ECU wire and RLO wire.

If you or anyone needs some per-terminated ecu wires I can snip them as long as possible for you.
Crimping new wires with terminals is the best way, I just used what I have laying around in storage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (https://ibb.co/wKKKQfd)

[jorgezee1]

If anyone is interested in how the Trucks ran power using the GMPP box here are a couple factory harness diagrams.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1781-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/6NVNFkz)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1788-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/Vxq2vt3)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1789-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/mTSFKrF)

[ween]

Here: https://www.powerandsignal.com/docs/DCS%20Global%20Catalog.pdf
Pages 315, 316, 329. 315 for relays and mini fuses, 316 for maxi fuses, 329 for components of PDC,
as well as which terminals fit where. Not all part numbers shown are available, they maybe superceded, or NLA.

[badazz81z28]

As for the fuel pump, I use the fuel pump wire on the GMPP to operate a relay for the PWM controller in the trunk (relay and PWM in trunk). Since the battery is in the truck I use a 12ga wire to provide power to the ZL1 module to ensure full voltage. The wire in the GMPP is too small and will be too long to properly power a fuel pump.

[andrewb70]

As for the fuel pump, I use the fuel pump wire on the GMPP to operate a relay for the PWM controller in the trunk (relay and PWM in trunk). Since the battery is in the truck I use a 12ga wire to provide power to the ZL1 module to ensure full voltage. The wire in the GMPP is too small and will be too long to properly power a fuel pump.

I do the same and have a relay in the trunk that gets power from the battery, which is also in the trunk.

[jorgezee1]

As for the fuel pump, I use the fuel pump wire on the GMPP to operate a relay for the PWM controller in the trunk (relay and PWM in trunk). Since the battery is in the truck I use a 12ga wire to provide power to the ZL1 module to ensure full voltage. The wire in the GMPP is too small and will be too long to properly power a fuel pump.


I do the same and have a relay in the trunk that gets power from the battery, which is also in the trunk.



Ok, Sounds like I would need to run two wires. A heavier gauge power wire (10ga or 8ga?) and the grey wire out of the GMPP box which I believe is also 10ga but it steps down to 12ga when looking at what feeds the relay in the GMPP box.

I should run two wire through the AAW bulk head (if possible). Use the grey wire as the relay trigger wire and the new power wire to feed power to the trunk relay, sound right?

Any issue with running a relay with a relay? The GMPP box will energize the boxed relay output wire that will trigger the second relay?

I will research what you mean by PWM controller for the fuel pump. Does this get controlled by the ECU? Is there a thread I should reference? I will also search for it.

I am using a older SS tank from Ricks. It has a bolt in fuel pump and not the newer style ones he sells. I was debating on buying the newer OE style looking tank, but since I already have the SS tank I decided to just stick with it. Woudl I be able to use the PWM controller with this setup or does it require a newer bucket style fuel pump?

Tank I am using: https://www.jegs.com/i/Ricks-Hot-Rod-Shop/781/3091/10002/-1

[jorgezee1]

Here: https://www.powerandsignal.com/docs/DCS%20Global%20Catalog.pdf
Pages 315, 316, 329. 315 for relays and mini fuses, 316 for maxi fuses, 329 for components of PDC,
as well as which terminals fit where. Not all part numbers shown are available, they maybe superceded, or NLA.

Thanks for the link! Awesome find!

[andrewb70]

Thanks for the link! Awesome find!

You can source all of those parts from Mouser.

[jorgezee1]

So... Vaporworx will be giving me gas now....

Had a nice chat with Carl and I ordered a new tank and will be using his PWM FP kit with a ZL1 Fuel pump.

I just realized I have a few more circuits to think about.

Vintage Air Power wire and I need to work on the reverse lights, which I think is in the AAW bulkhead connector, but just need to fish it through the GMPP trans breakout harness.

I was debating on install the VA kit, but I will likely just do it. I really did not want to pull the fender..... that was my only big hesitation. My plan was to lift the body off the chassis to swap the motor, but now I might have to remove the front end.


Here is a diagram I received from PCM of NC let me know what you think? "Splice here" is where the PCM of NC AC bump wire will go.
Power seems to use a Circuit breaker, so I am thinking of tapping into the red box from the battery cable.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/Inbox745jzautoworksgmailcomGmail-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/hyJSNSS)

[jorgezee1]

badazz81z28,

I called Mark at PCM of NC about the fused terminals. He said they normally do not sell them directly, but he offered to do a one time sale if I needed some. I bought 30 of the fuse box winged terminals. If you would like a few when I get them I can send you some. I did not get a part number.

[2yellow69]

https://www.pcmofnc.com/product/trailblazer-v8-three-relay-ls1-dual-fan-conversion-kit-3/

This is the setup I used on my daughters Nova with FiTech fuel injecton on a 5.3 and on my Camaro using a PSI harness/GM computer on a 6.0. Works beautifully, is simple to install, and is made specifically for the fan setup I used on both cars (98-02 Camaro factory fans).

[CarlC]

.......some light, but informative, reading.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/134163-New-Variable-Speed-PWM-Cooling-Fan-Controller-from-PSM

[CarlC]

So... Vaporworx will be giving me gas now....

Had a nice chat with Carl and I ordered a new tank and will be using his PWM FP kit with a ZL1 Fuel pump.

I just realized I have a few more circuits to think about.

Vintage Air Power wire and I need to work on the reverse lights, which I think is in the AAW bulkhead connector, but just need to fish it through the GMPP trans breakout harness.

I was debating on install the VA kit, but I will likely just do it. I really did not want to pull the fender..... that was my only big hesitation. My plan was to lift the body off the chassis to swap the motor, but now I might have to remove the front end.


Here is a diagram I received from PCM of NC let me know what you think? "Splice here" is where the PCM of NC AC bump wire will go.
Power seems to use a Circuit breaker, so I am thinking of tapping into the red box from the battery cable.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/Inbox745jzautoworksgmailcomGmail-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/hyJSNSS)

Thanks for coming by the other day! I hope the ride through the canyon and farmlands was okay.

If you have any questions along the way with the fuel or fan controller please let me know.

[jorgezee1]

Thanks for coming by the other day! I hope the ride through the canyon and farmlands was okay.

If you have any questions along the way with the fuel or fan controller please let me know.

Carl! Thanks for the all the help you have already provided! It was worth the trip to pick your brain on my setup, lol. Looking forward to installing PWM and new fuel pump setup.


I am really excited about getting everything ready for the swap. Just need to finish sorting out a few more circuits and I will fire the engine up and start checking for leaks/ect. Than I will think about final wiring and component placement. i will start a separate thread to document the swap process.

[jorgezee1]

Update on the PCM of NC kit issue I ran into.

Issue: The Orange "Y" power split for the relays uses a different pin than the relay socket. The pin will not properly seat, there are two tangs at the top of the terminal that prevent it from seating, it also does not have the wing that helps lock it in place once the plastic lock insert is reinstalled.

Per Mark PCM of NC the pins should be the same and there maybe variations in the boxes. I found that the pin is in fact different on my box. What I have in my GMPP box requires the winged terminal for the fused side of the wire. This also matches what my 98 Chevy Vortec harness box has.

Here is a picture:

Left is the PCM of NC terminal. Right is the Stock GM truck terminal and my GMPP harness terminal. The very top of the left terminal (PCMofNC terminal) shows the tangs that prevent the pin from locking into place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1824-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZxkYZk6)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1852-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/TLYSRfV)

This is the Y cable that comes in the kit:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/IMG1821-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/mqHm2Xm)

You can use the terminal, but you have to remove the tangs in order for it to seat properly. For those that installed the kit; It would be interesting to know how many of you ran into into this issue?


Also reported on another forum:

https://www.trifive.com/threads/twin-fan-control-with-e67-controller.170572/page-2

[CarlC]

Also, for those using a VaporWorx PWM, it is highly suggested to NOT use a relay to feed the controller. The controller is basically a high-speed relay. PWM can also be very hard on relays.

[icemanrd19]

I’ve installed 4 of those PCM of nc kits. Never once had a issue other than a variation of a pin location.

[jorgezee1]

I’ve installed 4 of those PCM of nc kits. Never once had a issue other than a variation of a pin location.

Yup, That also what Mark mentioned. He said a change on how the pin locks could have been made in the box. By the way Customer service is really great!

What's interesting is the Pin I need is identical to that of the truck harness. My box just uses the terminal without the tangs and the wing to properly seat. You can physically install the pin from the PCM of NC and it sits snug, but it does not "click" or seat all the way into place. If I use the pin as shown in the pictures without the tangs it easily installs and it properly seats into place.

My fix was to cut the two tangs off the PCMofNC terminal and it "clicked" in to place. Without removing the tangs I could easily pull the wire out without needing a de-pinning tool. In my case, without modifying the pin vibration could easily work it loose over time.

I wanted to point this out for others in case someone else runs into this issue. My GMPP kit has a manufacturing date of January 2020. Maybe there is a revision or I have a unicorn GMPP box, that just happens to match the truck box I have, lol.


As a side note;
Although I already installed this kit, I will end up using the Vaporworx PWM controller for the fans and fuel pump.
Nothing wrong with the PCM of NC kit. In fact I feel it is a very nice kit with everything you need to install it on the car and customer service is fantastic.

I ended up taking a trip out to visit Carl for the PWM fuel pump controller and had a chance to play with the fan controller as well. I ended up getting both from him. Since I installed the PCM of NC kit, I will just re purpose the relays. I have not had a chance to fully think through this, so I will report back once I have a better idea of how this will now get wired.

[jorgezee1]

Giving an update to this thread: I had to take a break on this but now I am back on track to finishing this swap. Motor is in and I have been working on the interior wiring and now getting to the final stretch for power wiring and battery mounting.

I ended up moving the battery to the back and after reading the 1000's of threads about wiring a trunk mount battery I am regretting it already. Seems we have many ways to go about it and I think I narrowed it down to 2 ways for me.

Option 1:( MAD Electric variation )
1/0 Starter cable
Battery to Ford Solenoid
Ford Solenoid to passthrough on firewall
passthrough to Starter lug

8ga Charge cable
Battery to 175amp fuse
175 amp fuse to power cutoff
power cutoff to firewall passthrough
passthrough to Alt (2x 8ga or 4ga)
and
Fused link for AAW and Fused link for GMPP ( Fused link = Maxi fuse or Mega Fuse )

Option 2:
Battery to Fuse/Breaker
Breaker to passthrough on firewall
passthrough to starter lug
firewall passthrough
passthrough to Alt (2x 8ga or 4ga)
and
Fused link for AAW and Fused link for GMPP ( Fused link = Maxi fuse or Mega Fuse )

The difference is removing the Ford relay and running just 1 live 1/0 cable, but I would add a big 300amp fuse or reset-able breaker.

My concerns are the GMPP box and "noisy power" as Don has mentioned earlier. It seems that putting the GMPP box on the firewall passthrough with the alternator could cause potential issues. Should I consider running another wire to the trunk just for the GMPP box?

I have it currently laid out and for the most part the 1/0 cable is in and the 8 Gauge. They are run through the cabin and connected to the pass through terminals. I am still trying to figure out which way to go and the more I read the more I get indecisive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/IMG5320-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/TYtLJgv)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/IMG5319-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/MncpWZR)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/IMG5321-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZYgNp4b)

[dhutton]

I take my lead from the OEMs. Fifth and sixth gen Camaros have trunk mounted batteries and they don’t use a solenoid. Just another part to fail imho….

Don

[jorgezee1]

I take my lead from the OEMs. Fifth and sixth gen Camaros have trunk mounted batteries and they don’t use a solenoid. Just another part to fail imho….

Don

Hi Don,

Thanks for the response. I have read a few posts where you mention this. I am leaning to this setup as well, but I think my main concern is the GMPP power to the same lug as the Alternator. Since I have the 8GA wire already ran should I just leave the alternator and AAW main power wire on the 8 GA to the battery and run the GMPP box off the 1/0 starter wire to the battery?

[dhutton]

Hi Don,

Thanks for the response. I have read a few posts where you mention this. I am leaning to this setup as well, but I think my main concern is the GMPP power to the same lug as the Alternator. Since I have the 8GA wire already ran should I just leave the alternator and AAW main power wire on the 8 GA to the battery and run the GMPP box off the 1/0 starter wire to the battery?
So you ran 1/0 and 8 gauge from the battery to the front? I think either way is fine.

Don

[jorgezee1]

So you ran 1/0 and 8 gauge from the battery to the front? I think either way is fine.

Don

Don,

Yes, I have already ran both cables from the trunk to the front firewall and have two pass through terminals. One is on the bottom next to the VA drain hose and the other is on the firewall near the back of the passenger side coil packs.
The trunk side of the wiring are still not terminated, so I guess I am looking to get help and lock down a solution. My concerns really revolves around the ECU and GMPP harness that wants to run direct to the battery. I am not sure if I put the GMPP power wire with the Alternator wire, I will introduce noise or AC ripple or anything else that could cause an electric issue in future with the ECU.

[dhutton]

Don,

Yes, I have already ran both cables from the trunk to the front firewall and have two pass through terminals. One is on the bottom next to the VA drain hose and the other is on the firewall near the back of the passenger side coil packs.
The trunk side of the wiring are still not terminated, so I guess I am looking to get help and lock down a solution. My concerns really revolves around the ECU and GMPP harness that wants to run direct to the battery. I am not sure if I put the GMPP power wire with the Alternator wire, I will introduce noise or AC ripple or anything else that could cause an electric issue in future with the ECU.
Ok then attach the GMPP to the 1/0 cable. Should be fine.

Or attach the alternator to the 1/0 cable and everything else to the 8 wire. :)

Don

[dhutton]

If you have electric fans connect them to the 1/0 cable.

Don

[jorgezee1]

Ok then attach the GMPP to the 1/0 cable. Should be fine.

Or attach the alternator to the 1/0 cable and everything else to the 8 wire. :)

Don

Don,

Thank you for all the help and contributions you make on this and various other forums! It really is great to have a community of people and professionals we can ask and get help with our projects.