1971 Cutlass Suspension Planning from Scratch.

[ImaBadMan]

I'd really appreciate some guidance on what to do and when. This car is my first a-body, will be a daily driver, and just an exercise in learning and doing fab work for the fun of it. This is the first time I have dug this deep into a car as I have this stripped to a bare frame and have the body and parts out being dipped. I'd like to get all the welding and paint done by the time the body makes it back in five weeks. For the front suspension I'd like to put in coilovers and weld in a diy upper shock mount. I have a set of generic tubular a arms that I plan on cutting out the lower spring pocket and put in a lower shock mount. My question is what height to make the shock mounts particularly when I only have the frame to work from. I was thinking that there would be a standard coilover height I could go off of and then nail down the shock and spring specs as the project gets more defined. The engine is a olds 455 with iron heads, c5 corvette brakes, and that's about all I've solidified so far. I'm sure I will need more info to narrow this down, so what more info can I give you guys?

[astroracer]

Get a kit. No cutting needed and the shocks should bolt into the stock upper and lower mounts.
Here is a kit from Aldan but there are others out there just google it. :)
https://aldanamerican.com/gm-a-body-coilover-kits/?swoof=1&pa_vehicle-make=oldsmobile&pa_vehicle-model=cutlass&pa_vehicle-year=1971&pa_coilover-kit-position=front&pa_vehicle-specific=coilover-kit
Mark

[raustinss]

my 2 cents , not sure id want to do that with a factory arm. I do recall reading about the stress that a spring puts on the arm per sq inch vs that of a coilover .

[csouth]

With the frame off, I'd do something like the Speedtech Chicane or UMI front weld in coilover mount. Once you do that, you could assemble the front with your modified arm and measure for a true coilover setup.

https://www.umiperformance.com/home/product/1964-1972-gm-a-body-front-coil-over-conversion-brackets-weld-in/

[DreKoushRanada]

I just went with the Ridetech level 2 coilover kit for my 1970 Cutlass. Any questions specific to the build. Feel free to ask any questions about my build.

[jetmech442]

my 2 cents , not sure id want to do that with a factory arm. I do recall reading about the stress that a spring puts on the arm per sq inch vs that of a coilover .

I'm with Raustinss here. I know you said you have a generic tubular arm, but please make sure whatever you put in there is Robust AF for those coilovers. Maybe something like the ridetech strong arms.

For me, the same things that make a good protouring car generally make a good daily driver. The things that made my 69 cutlass waaay better to drive was the addition of caster(about 5+ degrees), correcting the bump steer, a grand jeep Cherokee quick ratio steering box, and some good shocks(I used Varishock non adjustable at the time). oh, and disc brakes but you already have vette stuff so you should be great there.


Caster came from adjustable SPC arms in front. (With stock geometry arms(tubular or not) that will move the wheel rearward in the opening and depending on the body may look not quite right, lowers that move the BJ forward will correct that). I prefer the adjustable ones instead of tubular because you'll find some differences side to side from tolerances and years of twist.


Bumps steer came from tall lower ball joints from Howe. I see people using Proforge also. This will give you about an inch drop. A tall upper BJ will correct the camber curve so when you get into a turn the wheels camber properly(stock they amber opposite).


The GJC steering box makes a big difference. An even bigger difference is a re-valved Lee box with with a matched pump. I have only ever heard good things from Lee stuff, even after he stepped back from actually doing the work, the guys that continue his business seem to have continued the quality. I would do this myself but I'm too doggone stubborn trying to get the electric assist to work.

I've done much much more to the car than the above, but I wanted to keep my suggestions focused on what would make a good daily driver.Hope this helps, good to see another olds will be back on the road. Post some pics when you get some time. GL.

[JustJohn]

Comparison of the generic control arms to US made:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/134567-Global-West-vs-the-Chinese-copies?highlight=