Pontiac 2nd gen fuel system questions

[70Uglybird]

Had a stalled project that I'm moving on again. Picked up most of these parts awhile ago and just wanted to put the setup out there and had some questions. I am pretty good and throwing stuff together but am pretty novice on tips and tricks. This is my first non "bolt on" Fuel system.

Car is a 1973 firebird with an 455, SD ported heads and stump puller Roller cam, ported torqer II etc etc. Builder says 600+ I'm guessing in 500's more likely.

Fuel system is:

Resto mod tank
5th gen camaro Fuel module
Vaporworx regulator modifification
3/8 NiCop line
TBD PTFE from tank to hardline, and from hardline to terminator fuel rail.
II much vent


Now for my stupid questions!

1- On the PTFE line any rule of them on lengths from hardline? Do I do hardline up and over axle, then a really short soft line? How far do I do the hardline into engine bay? Any examples of second gen setups or pics anyone has?

2. I'd like to do prebuilt ptfe lines from Pegasus or Fragola, are there any strategies for measuring and determining which ends to install? I was thinking of building it with hard line for reference but I'm guessing there is easier way?

3. Suggestions for the vent? I was expecting an AN fitting on the resto mod tank but only have barbs. Again any examples out there that are good to follow?

4. Sending unit, I have programmable Speed hut fuel gauge. Can I use the 5th get module sending unit? if yes how do I block off? If no any suggestions?

5. The adaptor connector I got two years ago I'm guessing should be replaced by the new one vaporworx has? I got it from vaporworx but it looks different when I go to site.

Thanks upfront for any suggestions here or calling me out for missing something\doing something wrong! Looking forward to getting this thing off the lift after two years!!!

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[ULTM8Z]

For the fuel line, I've been running PTFE braided line from tank to fuel rail since about 2011-ish. No problems whatsoever.

[70Uglybird]

For the fuel line, I've been running PTFE braided line from tank to fuel rail since about 2011-ish. No problems whatsoever.


That is an option I was wondering about. Seems like a good choice with only 2 connections instead of 4. I will see thr NiCo line is pretty awesome to work with!

If cost is the only reason I would just go one line front to back.

[OLDFLM]

[QUOTE=70Uglybird;1335105]

1- On the PTFE line any rule of them on lengths from hardline? Do I do hardline up and over axle, then a really short soft line? How far do I do the hardline into engine bay? Any examples of second gen setups or pics anyone has?

We used "In-line Tube" pre-bent 3/8" stainless hard lines on mine and connected the PTFE lengths to each end of that... just have to flare the hardline for the AN adapters.

2. I'd like to do prebuilt ptfe lines from Pegasus or Fragola, are there any strategies for measuring and determining which ends to install? I was thinking of building it with hard line for reference but I'm guessing there is easier way?

I was going to use Fragola (LanceSS has it on his Monte SS) but ended up going with Goodridge 910 for the PTFE lines... you can do the AN connections yourself and cut the PTFE to length.

3. Suggestions for the vent? I was expecting an AN fitting on the resto mod tank but only have barbs. Again any examples out there that are good to follow?

If you still have the stock "stand pipe" behind the back seat, use that like I did. The 2 corner vents on the tank go to it and then the vapor condenses and returns to the tank. There's a vent line (driver's side) on the stand pipe that you can put a K&N filter on. If you still want to just use the II Much canister, use the 2 corner vents on the tank into a "T" fitting and run that to the II Much Canisters. Cap the center return on the tank.

4. Sending unit, I have programmable Speed hut fuel gauge. Can I use the 5th get module sending unit? if yes how do I block off? If no any suggestions?

Call Rick's Tanks... they have a block off plate for the sending unit hole on your restomod tank. Does your GM fuel module have the float and sending unit on it? If so, you should be all set.

5. The adaptor connector I got two years ago I'm guessing should be replaced by the new one vaporworx has? I got it from vaporworx but it looks different when I go to site.

Call Carl at VaporWorx to make sure it's the fitting you need. But you should be okay based on the picture you posted.

[QUOTE]

Hope this helps!

[cpd004]

Ty, did you use a short flex line there to mate the front and back line or did you have them make a one piece?

[OLDFLM]

We used a short piece of PTFE to mate the two lines there like the factory did.

[70Uglybird]

Thanks for the info! I'll call ricks tomorrow. The float is on the module. If you have anymore pics of the fuel lines over axle and engine bay would love to see them!! I think we have similar setups.

[OLDFLM]

Very similar setups... Rick's Restomod Tank (15021) with corner pickups (PN: 32002), Vaporworx Gen4 Fuel Pressure Regulator (58psi), fuel module plug components and Carls' GM 3/8" Quick-Connect to Male -6AN Adapter, an ACDELCO #MU1959 Fuel Module that includes the fuel level float and sending unit, and hopefully this little gem helps some others too... an AUTEX100 100psi Fuel pressure sensor that's only $27.39 on Amazon and works great with the Holley ECU versus Holley's $134 sender (554-102).

All the credit for the clean installation and wiring of my Terminator EFI goes to John Parsons! Way beyond my "left-loosey" skill set... JP is much better with the "righty-tighty" than I am!

My front hard line ends on the outside of the passenger subframe rail (first pic above next to the body mount) and we ran an -6AN flex line from there along the botton of the firewall, up the back of the motor, to the rear fuel rail of the Holley Terminator TBI and just plugged the front fuel rail. The GM Fuel Module contains the fuel pressure regulator and filter so it really helps to clean up the looks of things under the hood around the TBI.

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The rear hard line follows the factory line path down the passenger side but takes a 90* off the rear passenger frame rail right above the rear axle. (Pic of the 90* -6AN fitting above above next to the hoses for the vapor/standpipe)

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Here's a picture of that hard line finished and covered in heat shield (for tailpipe heat) to the 90* fitting, along with the fuel pressure sensor and the soft PFTE -6AN line that goes above the axle to the VaporWorx fitting on the fuel module.

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If you go with the In-Line Tube (SPFF7201) 2-piece stainless 3/8" fuel lines you'll want to flip the front line end-to-end as that seems to work better and then terminate/flare the end at the firewall. You can see in this pic where JP hadn't yet cut the firewall end of the line and put the bend in it to kick it up ~45* to the bracket/fitting on the frame rail near the body mount. We also added the "rock guard" spring from In-line tube to the hard line.

[spazegun2213]

From my research it looks like the 5th gen fuel pump with the level sensor is a 33-240 ohm level sensor. I haven't tested it so I'm not 100% sure. If your gauge is programmable to that range, it should be pretty easy, but you'd have to check.

[70Uglybird]

Awesome pics Ty! I will check out that sender and maybe see if it works with the ricks tank T fitting!

Space that is perfect and the factory default setting for speed hut programmable gauges!!

[70Uglybird]

Ty did you get the brackets at Ricks tanks too. I see the ushaped with the button heads I was going to pick up a pack of those for 3/8s But did see the to terminal brackets and like your pressure sensor setup too!

[OLDFLM]

The Grabber Clamps are from Ricks. https://rickstanks.com/product/grabber-clamps/

John Parsons made the gorgeous L-shaped brackets at the front and rear of the car and are a nice solid location/transition from the hardline to the PTFE flex!

177825

The pressure sensor is $32 on Amazon: "AUTEX100" works great with the Holley ECU and saves you $100... it just goes into a -6AN fuel pressure adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Transducer-Sender-Sensor-Stainless/dp/B00NIK9E10/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2JYVMEM7OQ40H&keywords=100+psi+pressure+sensor&qid=1577661603&sprefix=100+psi+pressure+sensor%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-4

Another cost saver that was passed to me by LanceSS that works great is the BULGIN PX0441/2M00 cable that plugs into the USB for laptop tuning:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK2A6DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Josh@Ridetech]

The Grabber Clamps are from Ricks. https://rickstanks.com/product/grabber-clamps/

John Parsons made the gorgeous L-shaped brackets at the front and rear of the car and are a nice solid location/transition from the hardline to the PTFE flex!

177825

The pressure sensor is $32 on Amazon: "AUTEX100" works great with the Holley ECU and saves you $100... it just goes into a -6AN fuel pressure adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Transducer-Sender-Sensor-Stainless/dp/B00NIK9E10/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2JYVMEM7OQ40H&keywords=100+psi+pressure+sensor&qid=1577661603&sprefix=100+psi+pressure+sensor%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-4

Another cost saver that was passed to me by LanceSS that works great is the BULGIN PX0441/2M00 cable that plugs into the USB for laptop tuning:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK2A6DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That bracket is very clean!

[70Uglybird]

Yep I think John should make some more!

[andrewb70]

I am not a fan of the 90 degree drill through fittings. Each one of those adds as much resistance as adding 12 feet of fuel line to the fuel system. That said, I do have one in my fuel system.

Andrew