70 chevelle g-machine

[Crazy Horse]

Ok Fellow Pro-Touring friends...I jumped the gun and bought this semi rolling project. I was gonna wait a few months but this opportunity came alone and it was too good to pass (it was an abandon project at the Shop where they do some work on my race cars).
It's a shame that the Chassis and engine (454) have been refreshed and powder coated since I won't be using them (they will be on the for sale section as soon as I inspect them).
The car has most of its moldings, brand new front and rear bumper, new windows, a new dash and boxes of new stuff that I have not been through yet.
I will order an RS SP3C Chassis and a maybe a Mast 600 Road & Track ASAP and start from there. Latter down the road I plan on a TKO 600 or maybe a T56 Magnum. (I say maybe on the Mast because the guys at the shop have a brand new LSA 6.2...decisions, decisions).
Since the car is not mini tubed and the floor panel is brand new, do you guys think an 18x11 back and 18x9.5 front wheel and tire would work?
Thanks for your input and I will keep you posted!
Alex

[Bobbywracing]

For Most of the Gm G body chevelle cars I’m pretty sure a 9” wheel with 5.25-6” backspacing is the widest wheel , with a low profile tire. It’s one thing if your suspension is jacked up in the rear, but the scene now is lowered road touring.

[raustinss]

Yes you can fit some beefy wheels and tires under those A bodies , do a search on here. Theres been more than enough posts asking about it

[Crazy Horse]

Yes you can fit some beefy wheels and tires under those A bodies , do a search on here. Theres been more than enough posts asking about it

Thanks!

I found one thread with a stock chassis and with stock body running 18x11 and 315/30 with no issues.

I will order my RS Chassis with 58" track and leave the floor as is. Do not think I will run wider than that.

[Crazy Horse]

I decided on this new LSA my builder found in a friends Shop!
I started a thread on the LSA Section...have lots of questions (harness, computer, cams, pulley, tune, etc.) Promise I will do my research before but I think my best bet will be to find a very nice Shop in Texas with Dyno and Tuning Expertise to do the work for us (once the build is finished).
Very excited for the engine and because I got a great deal on it!!!

[csouth]

I decided on this new LSA my builder found in a friends Shop!
I started a thread on the LSA Section...have lots of questions (harness, computer, cams, pulley, tune, etc.) Promise I will do my research before but I think my best bet will be to find a very nice Shop in Texas with Dyno and Tuning Expertise to do the work for us (once the build is finished).
Very excited for the engine and because I got a great deal on it!!!

Damn they took all of the accessories off of the motor. Stay away from systems that put the charger and accessories on the same belt. LSX innovations setup can handle high HP and is proven. Going back to the factory setup is also an option.

[Crazy Horse]

Damn they took all of the accessories off of the motor. Stay away from systems that put the charger and accessories on the same belt. LSX innovations setup can handle high HP and is proven. Going back to the factory setup is also an option.


Yep, not decided what I'll be doing...probably go back to stock minus cats, then down the road go to stage II (cams, pulley, etc). Once the engine is really broken in. Really new on this, so while the car is built I have a few months to study and do research. (and learn from you guys)

[Crazy Horse]

Ok guys, so my build is in a bit of a hold waiting for the new Chassis.
I told my Body Shop guy to start the body restoration with the old chassis but he tells me that in order to get all the gaps correct he needs the new Chassis (that will take at least a couple of months more to get here).
He says that a 50 year old chassis would most definitely be crooked by now and that if he measures with the old one and then install the new one, a few mm here and there can become almost an inch elsewhere.
Is he correct???
I have seen a lot of builds that do not measure with the new chassis and then just install. :dunno:
Any input would be appreciated...

[raustinss]

Well your body man should be able to measure the stock frame and check to see if it's within factory specs

[Crazy Horse]

Well your body man should be able to measure the stock frame and check to see if it's within factory specs
Good idea!
I will try to find those specs.
Thanks

[Vimes]

I've found it best to not make someone do something they don't want to do, if you want a good job done. Doing so means more time and expense later on if it turns out he's right, not to mention that he'll need to match your car to a non-standard custom frame. If your body guy doesn't want to work on it until the new chassis comes in, trust his judgement not only on his assessment of the job, but on his assessment of his own abilities. I know how much it sucks suffering a setback on a project, but better to wait on the new one to come in if your body guy doesn't want to work on your car without it.

[Schwartz Performance]

Ok guys, so my build is in a bit of a hold waiting for the new Chassis.
I told my Body Shop guy to start the body restoration with the old chassis but he tells me that in order to get all the gaps correct he needs the new Chassis (that will take at least a couple of months more to get here).
He says that a 50 year old chassis would most definitely be crooked by now and that if he measures with the old one and then install the new one, a few mm here and there can become almost an inch elsewhere.
Is he correct???
I have seen a lot of builds that do not measure with the new chassis and then just install. :dunno:
Any input would be appreciated...

It’s best to use the new chassis to do all the final work on. He should be able to do a good bit of bodywork though, just not the final gaps and such.

-Dale

[Crazy Horse]

I've found it best to not make someone do something they don't want to do, if you want a good job done. Doing so means more time and expense later on if it turns out he's right, not to mention that he'll need to match your car to a non-standard custom frame. If your body guy doesn't want to work on it until the new chassis comes in, trust his judgement not only on his assessment of the job, but on his assessment of his own abilities. I know how much it sucks suffering a setback on a project, but better to wait on the new one to come in if your body guy doesn't want to work on your car without it.
Excellent Point!
Two more months of waiting time :smoke:

- - - Updated - - -


It’s best to use the new chassis to do all the final work on. He should be able to do a good bit of bodywork though, just not the final gaps and such.

-Dale
Thanks Dale!
Very Cool

[Crazy Horse]

Oops!..Now that escaleted quickly!!!

[Vimes]

Holy crap, was that guy with the sander on autopilot? He done sanded the body CLEAN OFF!

[Crazy Horse]

Holy crap, was that guy with the sander on autopilot? He done sanded the body CLEAN OFF!
Or probably high...lol

I did tell him that we where going to enter a few "concours"...hehe

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm surprised he's grinding with a Lambo that close!