Ford 9 inch is 1/2" too narrow.

[k72nova]

Somewhat hypothetical question… is there anything that can be done about a rear end that is too narrow by ¼-1/2”? IE housing end spacer or something like that?

My scenario may be fixed with firmer suspension or raising the rear suspension slightly so this may turn out to be a non-issue but I thought I’d ask the question to get all my option in front of me. The problem I ran into is that I have a driveway that makes my car’s rear suspension articulate to the point that the tire and rim grind against the inside rear wheel well, to the point that I have damage to the wheel lip. I don’t have the exact measurement of how far the wheel would have to be pushed out to fix the issue but my initial assumption is between 1/8-1/4” on either side. I could use a wheel spacer, but I’d rather not do that if I don’t have to. If need be I’d cut the housing ends off and weld on wider ends to fix the problem, but I’d also like to avoid that unless that’s just what needs to happen, but I’m curious if there’s anything available like a housing end spacer that would fix the issue.

I’ve found some spacers for the housing end, and another that’s a bearing spacer to sit inside the housing end, but I don’t know that they’re for this situation and I don’t want to make the assumption that this is something I can do without causing any damage. If that is an option I’ll have to worry about the axles being too narrow but I’m more curious if it’s even an option to add a spacer.
For reference I’m running a Ford 9” with Wilwood Aero4 brakes.

[WOLF1732]

Don't worry about wheel spacers I have seen 2" used per side with no issues. Many race cars adjust their track using spacers from tract to track depending on their setup. Now if you want to look at spacers gone wild look at the ricer folks. Holy cow. I heave been ask to make 4" wide ones before.

[Chad-1stGen]

A wheel spacer is the easiest route. 1/4" spacer is no big deal and as Wolf said some racers use spacer to fine tune track width to make track side setup changes. Though when he referenced 2" I assume he is talking about an adapter and not a spacer.

Otherwise you have to lengthen the axle. It's the only thing that will widen the WMS if you don't want to use a spacer. And if you lengthen the axles you probably have to cut off the ends and put new ones on. Which at that point I'd look into converting it to a full floater. All a lot more work and expense than a good spacer to deal with your driveway situation.

[TheBandit]

I recently installed some 1/4" Baer wheel spacers P/N 2000008 to cure a minor rub on the insides of my tires. I have 1/2" wheel studs that are plenty long and I don't expect any issues. I chose these particular spacers because they are a close fit to the hub and studs, so I don't have to worry about them shifting around or being off-center. Up to about 3/4" you can get spacers that are truly just spacers like this and they work fine as long as you have long enough studs.

176641

If you get in the range of 1"+ then you will be looking at wheel adapters, but from your post it sounds like spacers like this would do the trick for you.

[k72nova]

Great!, Thanks for the information, looks like wheel spacers might be what I use if I can't fix the issue with a little suspension adjustment.

[spacepirate]

Agreed, running a 1/4" spacer on mine too.

[eze_1978]

I had a slight rubbing issue myself on the inside wheel well. I did adjust the rear coil springs to a more firmer ride and it fixed the issue. I was able to make some side to side adjustments and a little massaging with a hammer on the inner wheel well, but I guess it would depend on how far off on your measurement. Better in my opinion to be a little short towards the wheel well and adjust with a spacer than to wide rubbing on the outside fender. If using a spacer you would also just need to make sure the wheel studs you are using are also not too short to safely accept the wheel spacer.

[eze_1978]

I had a slight rubbing issue myself on the inside wheel well. I did adjust the rear coil springs to a more firmer ride and it fixed the issue. I was able to make some side to side adjustments and a little massaging with a hammer on the inner wheel well, but I guess it would depend on how far off on your measurement. Better in my opinion to be a little short towards the wheel well and adjust with a spacer than to wide rubbing on the outside fender. If using a spacer you would also just need to make sure the wheel studs you are using are also not too short to safely accept the wheel spacer.

I do have some 3/8 wheel spacers left over from my stock wheels and tires I can send you if you think you need a little more than a 1/4in. I don’t have any need for them. Let me know I would just ask for shipping cost.
176891

[TheJDMan]

Like others have said, 1/4" spacer is no big deal. I'm running 1/4" spacers on the front wheels and they are simply a non-issue.

[k72nova]

I do have some 3/8 wheel spacers left over from my stock wheels and tires I can send you if you think you need a little more than a 1/4in. I don’t have any need for them. Let me know I would just ask for shipping cost.
176891

I appreciate the offer! I'm about 90% there, I bought the 1/4" Baer wheel spacers P/N 2000008 that TheBandit recommended. I still have a very slight rub but I'm spaced evenly now between the frame rails and outer wheelhouse now, I think the rest of my solution will be minor adjustments to panhard bar, and firming up the rear a little. Thanks for all the information everyone!

[badazz81z28]

Somewhat hypothetical question… is there anything that can be done about a rear end that is too narrow by ¼-1/2”? IE housing end spacer or something like that?

My scenario may be fixed with firmer suspension or raising the rear suspension slightly so this may turn out to be a non-issue but I thought I’d ask the question to get all my option in front of me. The problem I ran into is that I have a driveway that makes my car’s rear suspension articulate to the point that the tire and rim grind against the inside rear wheel well, to the point that I have damage to the wheel lip. I don’t have the exact measurement of how far the wheel would have to be pushed out to fix the issue but my initial assumption is between 1/8-1/4” on either side. I could use a wheel spacer, but I’d rather not do that if I don’t have to. If need be I’d cut the housing ends off and weld on wider ends to fix the problem, but I’d also like to avoid that unless that’s just what needs to happen, but I’m curious if there’s anything available like a housing end spacer that would fix the issue.

I’ve found some spacers for the housing end, and another that’s a bearing spacer to sit inside the housing end, but I don’t know that they’re for this situation and I don’t want to make the assumption that this is something I can do without causing any damage. If that is an option I’ll have to worry about the axles being too narrow but I’m more curious if it’s even an option to add a spacer.
For reference I’m running a Ford 9” with Wilwood Aero4 brakes.


If you havent bought wheels yet, just get the proper off-set to accommodate the rear width. If so, you can always use a think spacer.

[TheBandit]

I appreciate the offer! I'm about 90% there, I bought the 1/4" Baer wheel spacers P/N 2000008 that TheBandit recommended. I still have a very slight rub but I'm spaced evenly now between the frame rails and outer wheelhouse now, I think the rest of my solution will be minor adjustments to panhard bar, and firming up the rear a little. Thanks for all the information everyone!

My understanding is usually need slightly more inside clearance than outside clearance since the tire tends to get closer to the inside in a corner due to body roll and/or camber change,

[Skip Fix]

Bandit whose axles have that long a hub? My Mosers barely stick out of the rotor. Dutchamn made some longer for me so I could still use hubcentric factory wheels. Moser blew me off about making longer pilots.

[astroracer]

Bandit whose axles have that long a hub? My Mosers barely stick out of the rotor. Dutchamn made some longer for me so I could still use hubcentric factory wheels. Moser blew me off about making longer pilots.

Most wheels out there today use the 60 degree conical lug seats. These will automatically center the wheel to the lug pattern. Using a hub-centric wheel isn't that critical with the conical seats. I haven't used hub-centric wheels on any of my builds for years... I just make sure the lug seats are the conical style and roll on down the road. :)
Mark