1971 Corvette: Big Block, EFI, PT Build

[_BQ]

Well, I never intended to have two build threads at the same time, but alas...here we are.

I ran up on a project car that I couldn’t resist. I’m a big Corvette guy and have always been a huge fan of the chrome bumper C3s. I’ve also never owned a big block car, and this project gave me the opportunity to scratch both itches at the same time. So away we go.

The car is a 1971 Corvette coupe, T-Top car. It came well optioned from the factory with PS, PB, AC, and power windows. It was also optioned with the LS5 454 and a TH400 transmission. I’ve verified all the numbers on the car and it is indeed numbers matching. That doesn’t mean just a hell of a lot to me, but it’s pretty cool and it does dictate how I will proceed with the build and keeping some of the original parts I would have otherwise sold or discarded.

The 454 was rebuilt years ago, put on a stand, and never started. It’s .030 over and has a set of 10:1 pistons in it with a small cam and some decent hardware holding it together. The heads are 1970 castings in good shape. Intake mani is stock iron and heavy as a mofo. Exhaust manifolds are original. The carb is a non-original but correct Quadrajet.

I plan to go back through the motor and give it a once over, adding a better cam, new springs, aluminum intake, etc. I’ll also be adding a Holley Sniper EFI setup I had on the shelf from another build. I’ve been really impressed with the Holley Mid Mount accessories I used on my other car, so this car will get a set as well.

The automatic trans is coming out and a Muncie 4-speed is going in. I have a trans ready to go and I just can’t bear to drive a car with an auto trans. Personal preference.

I’ll be doing coilovers on the front and a composite monospring with double adjustable shocks on the rear. The car has disc brakes all around, but I’ll be replacing and upgrading all the lines and rotors, pads, etc. The entire chassis will be blown apart and rebuilt.

The interior will be somewhat stock appearing with upgraded, newer Corvette seats and Dakota Digital gauges. I’ll also probably replace the factory AC with Vintage Air if I can swing the cash.

Here’s the starting point. It’s basically a basket case, but it’s mostly there and the body and frame are in good shape.

(This is not my garage and not my oven)
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This is us leaving to bring it home...holy parts.
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[_BQ]

I had to open up the motor as soon as I got home. I was super worried about it because it’s been sitting for over a decade with no spark plugs installed, and I expected the worst. It was in great shape after all. I’ll still break it down and check it all out. Bigger cam going on, new springs, pushrods, etc. But overall, I was pleasantly surprised.
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[_BQ]

First course of action was to get the body off the frame and to get to work on the chassis rebuild. I’m going to break it all down, sand the frame and paint it with POR-15. Then I’ll go through all the individual components and sand or blast them and repaint them as well, using new bushings to put it all back together.

Here we are pulling the body off:
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Going on a dolly (there’s a brace welded in to support the nose of the car. It’s hard to see. We’ll be adding braces at the rearmost body mount points as well.
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And here’s the chassis:
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Got the chassis home and it’s tear down time.

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[FLYNAVY53]

very cool....in for this build as well!!

If your plan is to go with a transverse mono-leaf in the rear, and "coil overs" up front, I cant recommend Viking Performance enough! Their "semi-coil over" for the front is a really nice, best of both worlds solution. The spring and sock top mount in the factory spring pocket, requiring no modification at all. The bottom is set up just like a traditional coil over, with an adjustable lower spring perch for ride heigh adjustment. It does require either reinforcing the factory lower control arm, or going to a stronger aftermarket arm like Global West. I'm running them on my '64 in the front, with their matching shocks in the rear with the stock leaf. The car rides really nicely but handles significantly better.

[_BQ]

very cool....in for this build as well!!

If your plan is to go with a transverse mono-leaf in the rear, and "coil overs" up front, I cant recommend Viking Performance enough! Their "semi-coil over" for the front is a really nice, best of both worlds solution. The spring and sock top mount in the factory spring pocket, requiring no modification at all. The bottom is set up just like a traditional coil over, with an adjustable lower spring perch for ride heigh adjustment. It does require either reinforcing the factory lower control arm, or going to a stronger aftermarket arm like Global West. I'm running them on my '64 in the front, with their matching shocks in the rear with the stock leaf. The car rides really nicely but handles significantly better.

Viking is exactly what I’m going with. I’m getting the kit for coilovers up front and the smooth body double adjustable shocks for the rear. Same for the ‘64. Thanks for the heads up on reinforcing the control arm.

[F-Body International]

Good stuff!

If you want to get crafty, I think you can bolt on the MPFI Gen 6 454 intake manifold that has the LS style throttle body (‘96-‘00 trucks). That would be interesting to see.

[FLYNAVY53]

Viking is exactly what I’m going with. I’m getting the kit for coilovers up front and the smooth body double adjustable shocks for the rear. Same for the ‘64. Thanks for the heads up on reinforcing the control arm.

Thats the same kit I'm running.....be sure to look at your spring rates for the front as they offer a couple different ones for small vs big block. I'm running the 350's at the "stock to -1.5" ride heigh kit and it works perfectly.

Depending on what type of trailing arms you're running, you may run into some clearance issues in the rear because those double adjustable shocks are so thick. I had to add 1/4 shims on the lower shock mount on both sides to push the shocks inboard slightly so that they weren't rubbing on the trailing arms.

[_BQ]

Good stuff!

If you want to get crafty, I think you can bolt on the MPFI Gen 6 454 intake manifold that has the LS style throttle body (‘96-‘00 trucks). That would be interesting to see.

The plan is to use a Sniper setup I already have to help keep costs down, but that’s a good suggestion. I’ll check it out.

[_BQ]

Thats the same kit I'm running.....be sure to look at your spring rates for the front as they offer a couple different ones for small vs big block. I'm running the 350's at the "stock to -1.5" ride heigh kit and it works perfectly.

Depending on what type of trailing arms you're running, you may run into some clearance issues in the rear because those double adjustable shocks are so thick. I had to add 1/4 shims on the lower shock mount on both sides to push the shocks inboard slightly so that they weren't rubbing on the trailing arms.

Good stuff. They do offer a 450# front spring for big blocks and a 350# front spring for small blocks.

Rear trailing arms are stock. I’ll be on the lookout for clearance issues. Thanks again.

[FLYNAVY53]

Good stuff. They do offer a 450# front spring for big blocks and a 350# front spring for small blocks.

Rear trailing arms are stock. I’ll be on the lookout for clearance issues. Thanks again.

You should be fine then....I only ran into issues because I'm using the Global West trailing arms and the round tubing they use in their arms is wider than the factory pieces.

[_BQ]

Little more work breaking down the chassis today.
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[_BQ]

OK, failure on my part to keep this thread updated. Not a lot of movement here, but a little.

Finished braking down the chassis:
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And started grinding the whole thing down in preparation for coating it with POR15:
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Having the frame blasted would have been much easier and probably more complete, but I’m trying to keep costs down where I can. Ideally, a blast and powdercoat approach would be best, but I gave it a shot with gloss black POR15.

This turned out ok, but I think satin black finish would have resulted in a more even and better appearing coat. Gloss looks good, but imperfections in the coating show like crazy. Not a huge deal since it will be under the car and you’ll only be able to easily see 5-10% of it at any given time anyways.

Here’s the gloss black:
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With the frame fully coated, I’m ready to move on to rebuilding the front end and reinstalling everything. I have a complete front end rebuild kit on the way with new ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, as well as a kit of Viking coilovers for the front and smooth body shocks for the rear. The rear trailing arms are being rebuilt and the diff is being inspected. I hope to be making steady progress on this so I can get going on the body work ASAP.

[FLYNAVY53]

Looking good! I agree satin may have been the way to go, but that still looks good in gloss. I've always been a fan of POR15 over powder coat on anything that isn't a show car because its way easier to touch up if you actually drive it...and generally as durable when applied properly.

Love the Jeep BTW!

[ryeguy2006a]

One trick that I use is paint everything with POR15 and while it's still drying spray it with flat black cheap rattle can paint. It bonds with the POR and gives a nice Satin black finish.

[_BQ]

One trick that I use is paint everything with POR15 and while it's still drying spray it with flat black cheap rattle can paint. It bonds with the POR and gives a nice Satin black finish.

I actually used POR Top Coat spray paint to finish, and it works pretty well, but it’s easy to get overspray on other areas which kind of clouds the gloss finish. Satin wouldn’t have even been noticeable.

[_BQ]

Looking good! I agree satin may have been the way to go, but that still looks good in gloss. I've always been a fan of POR15 over powder coat on anything that isn't a show car because its way easier to touch up if you actually drive it...and generally as durable when applied properly.

Love the Jeep BTW!

Thanks. I’ve got a Vortec 350 to rebuild for that thing.

I also just bought this:
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1962 C10. I seem to have a problem with buying cars. This is my cry for help. LOL

[FLYNAVY53]

If you're looking for someone to tell you to stop, you're barking up the wrong tree my friend. The only thing that prevents me from acquiring more is living in a condo. I desperately want to put the drivetrain from a Subaru WRX under a '63 Falcon...

[_BQ]

Not a huge update, but the front end suspension stuff (and some from the rear) is cleaned up and coated with satin POR-15. Will start installing new front end bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc this weekend. 179008

[_BQ]

Minor update...the front end is loosely back together. Just need the Viking coilovers installed to be ready to bolt things down. All new bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends are in place. The rest of the suspension components were coated with POR-15.

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New brake lines, brake rotors, and other various parts are inbound for the next round of work.

[_BQ]

More progress. Sway bar is in with new end links and the brake lines are roughed in. 179675
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[_BQ]

Front sway bar install finished:
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Rear brake line installed:
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[Vimes]

How well protected will that rear brake line be when it's all together? I get nervous when I see important but delicate parts like brake lines down where an unfortunate rock bounce can break the line open.

[FLYNAVY53]

that brake line is on the back side of the rear crossmember....very unlikely. The front lines are actually more vulnerable, but even that would take a 1 in a million shot

[_BQ]

How well protected will that rear brake line be when it's all together? I get nervous when I see important but delicate parts like brake lines down where an unfortunate rock bounce can break the line open.

Yeah it’s in the factory location. It’s not the greatest, but I’ve never seen an issue with a line being impacted there.