Catch Can Routing....

[69camarokid]

Hi Friends!

I recently installed a Mighty Mouse Catch can on my LS3 crate engine in my 69 Camaro.
The directions sent with the Catch Can were not the clearest so I was hoping one of you who knows more than me would let me know if I have routed this correctly.

Are my inlet and exits routed correctly? For the top outlet, the directions gave no idea of where to route the should go. As I understand this outlet is for during road racing (which I am hoping to get into more and more often) allowing oil to outflow if the oil overheats. Im trying to find the best outlet for the tubing attached to this outlet so if the oil does overflow, where should I have it let out? Any thoughts/ideas are appreciated. Thanks!

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[dhutton]

Why are you using unmetered air on the clean side instead of connecting it to the intake tube between the MAF and throttle body? At least that’s what I think I see.

Don

[CarlC]

I agree with Don. Is that small filter your clean air side of the system? If so, instead of the filter it should be connected to a port past the MAF but before the throttle blade.

Also, the threaded fitting on the top of the canister likely should be plugged or else it's just a big vacuum leak.

Then there's this: "allowing oil to outflow if the oil overheats." Can you please clarify this point?

[dhutton]

I agree with Don. Is that small filter your clean air side of the system? If so, instead of the filter it should be connected to a port past the MAF but before the throttle blade.

Also, the threaded fitting on the top of the canister likely should be plugged or else it's just a big vacuum leak.

Then there's this: "allowing oil to outflow if the oil overheats." Can you please clarify this point?

I think that top port has a built in check valve for boosted applications.

Don

[CarlC]

Okay, makes sense for a blow-through application, but if a MAF is used it may still cause issues.

[dhutton]

Okay, makes sense for a blow-through application, but if a MAF is used it may still cause issues.
I spent some time on the Mighty Mouse website recently and came away with more questions and few answers. Difficult to understand how they work and how to install their catch cans. At least for me it was...

Don

[John McIntire]

The whole thing confuses me too.

Can anyone point us to a site or article that lays out the proper plumbing of a catch can?

[69camarokid]

I spent some time on the Mighty Mouse website recently and came away with more questions and few answers. Difficult to understand how they work and how to install their catch cans. At least for me it was...

Don

Thank goodness, I thought I was crazy. I could not find any solid info on how to install their catch can if it has the third inlet on top for their "road racing": version of their catch can. All of the diagrams are for a two valve system and I could find no info.

[69camarokid]

I have sent a request for additional info into mighty mouse themselves and will post up what I learn once they get back to me.
Thanks guys.

[69camarokid]

I agree with Don. Is that small filter your clean air side of the system? If so, instead of the filter it should be connected to a port past the MAF but before the throttle blade.

Also, the threaded fitting on the top of the canister likely should be plugged or else it's just a big vacuum leak.

Then there's this: "allowing oil to outflow if the oil overheats." Can you please clarify this point?

To the best of my understanding (which is very very little), there is no air port on my intake system. Ive looked all over and found nothing between my MAF and throttle body. Perhaps this is because this LS3 is a crate engine and not the ones in a modern car?

For the top fitting I could find absolutely no info from Mighty Mouse and almost nothing online about where it is supposed to go to. The only thing I could find was a video of a guy installing this same catch can on a C6 Z06 and he said the top fitting was to be attached to tubing leading to anywhere under the car and that then said something about how if the "oil boils" or something like that then the catch can would release the oil from the top to get it out of the engine.
... personally, I have no freaking clue.
Any thoughts?

[69camarokid]

Correction. This video I found (only one so far for install) says the top is a "check valve" that will open of pressure is too great and spew out oil. The guy in the video is saying to run a hose from this check valve to under the car, or somewhere out of the way to let oil release should the the pressure build to great while you are racing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dygmLF0wsY

[dhutton]

To the best of my understanding (which is very very little), there is no air port on my intake system. Ive looked all over and found nothing between my MAF and throttle body. Perhaps this is because this LS3 is a crate engine and not the ones in a modern car?

For the top fitting I could find absolutely no info from Mighty Mouse and almost nothing online about where it is supposed to go to. The only thing I could find was a video of a guy installing this same catch can on a C6 Z06 and he said the top fitting was to be attached to tubing leading to anywhere under the car and that then said something about how if the "oil boils" or something like that then the catch can would release the oil from the top to get it out of the engine.
... personally, I have no freaking clue.
Any thoughts?

You have to drill a hole in your intake tube and add the fitting to connect the hose. The GMPP crate instructions are very clear on this point.

Don

[69camarokid]

You have to drill a hole in your intake tube and add the fitting to connect the hose. The GMPP crate instructions are very clear on this point.

Don

I'll look back through the instructions that (I believe) I have. I had a shop install the engine and do the swap, but Im pretty sure they gave me the GMPP instructional packet. Do you happen to know, once I drill into, and attach a hose, the intake tubing, where that new tube is supposed to run and attach to?

[TheBandit]

First drill a hole into the intake tube somewhere between the MAF sensor and the throttle body. Judging by your photo, you may have to drill this hole into the elbow going into the throttle body. Next, install a hose fitting into this hole, for example you could use a Spectre 8711 or get a weld-in bung. Finally connect hose between the valve cover and the fitting, replacing the small air filter you have currently. This will ensure any air drawn through the PCV system is accounted for by the MAF sensor instead of acting like a vacuum leak.

[dhutton]

I'll look back through the instructions that (I believe) I have. I had a shop install the engine and do the swap, but Im pretty sure they gave me the GMPP instructional packet. Do you happen to know, once I drill into, and attach a hose, the intake tubing, where that new tube is supposed to run and attach to?
It attaches to the fitting on the passenger side valve cover where it appears you have installed a filter.

Don

[69camarokid]

Thakns for the detailed info Clint and Don. Ill get on that and get it installed this weekend.

I've taken the car for a quick 20 mile jaunt with the new catch can and that thing Hisses like a mother****er!
I looked around online and some people seem to say this is regualr while others say our catch can should be pretty quiet.

What I did notice, and confused me is that there is a little twisty knob on the bottom of the catch can, to let the oil out. I currently have it closed all the way.
Yet, when I put a finger over it while the engine is running (and I have that annoying hissing noise) it completely cuts out the hissing noise. I thought the
bottom was supposed to be the drain, making me very confused as to how/why it is sucking in air?

My tiny brain is very confused.
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[TheBandit]

The hissing is a vacuum leak indicating the drain is not closed off. The image seems to show just a hose barb with no sort of drain valve / petcock valve. You will need to either cap that during normal use or replace it with a petcock valve so it can be kept closed until you are ready to drain it.

[69camarokid]

The hissing is a vacuum leak indicating the drain is not closed off. The image seems to show just a hose barb with no sort of drain valve / petcock valve. You will need to either cap that during normal use or replace it with a petcock valve so it can be kept closed until you are ready to drain it.

I am a fool. I didnt pay enough attention to the pic I posted. My can has the petcock style valve on the bottom, not a hose barb.

What I found is that if when the petcock valve its opposite of what you think it should be. If you spin it til its tight, it is actually open. When you spin it til its as loose as possible, the valve is actually closed. screwing it completely in the opposite direction took care of my hissing noise! Yah!

[icemanrd19]

Lol. It’s a. Ice catch can though isn’t it? Luckily you didn’t drive like that and drip oil

[69camarokid]

Does anyone have a good idea of where to route the overflow tubing to? It says route it out of the engine bay and away for the exhaust so it doesnt cause a fire, but doesnt really specify where to run the tubing to.

Any ideas?

[Gmachine1911]

I’m having a hard time with the idea that they expect you to just route any oil overflow to the ground somewhere, or track surface if that’s where it happens to be, and hope for the best. I’m no engineer but I’ve never heard of any such thing on a PCV catch can. I read thru their instructions for “LS Mild” and “LS Wild” and didn’t see any reference to letting it drain on the ground. I think you need to call MM and have them walk you thru your specific application via phone.

[icemanrd19]

Screw it in to the side of the frame. Leave about 6” of free play. When you need to drain it get a cup, open the valve , drain it, and then close valve. Takes all of 1 min to do.

[dhutton]

Pretty sure he is referring to a hose out the top of his Race catch can and not the bottom drain hose. Its not a great choice for a catch can imho. Should have gone with the PCV version with a filter on top....

This thread and these catch cans are confusing as hell thanks to their lousy website.... ��

Don

[69camarokid]

Pretty sure he is referring to a hose out the top of his Race catch can and not the bottom drain hose. Its not a great choice for a catch can imho. Should have gone with the PCV version with a filter on top....

This thread and these catch cans are confusing as hell thanks to their lousy website.... ��

Don

You are correct. I am talking about the top of the catch can. The website and the instructions give absolutely no indication as to where to top can tubing is to be routed..... yarg!

[CarlC]

Want an OE quality separator that has an automatic drain valve? Provent 200 + drain valve if the return line is above the oil level. These are far more sophisticated than a can full of steel/brass wool.

https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/kataloge/kataloge-wartungsanleitungen-mann%2Bhummel/kurbelgehauseentlueftung/ProVent_en.pdf

[TheBandit]

Those look awesome Carl. Thanks for the info. Do you have one installed on your car?

[John McIntire]

Where do you purchase those from Carl?

Maybe you could also tell us or sketch out a schematic with the proper plumbing for one on a NA LS?

Thanks!

[CarlC]

Those look awesome Carl. Thanks for the info. Do you have one installed on your car?

Yep, and you're welcome to take a look.

[CarlC]

The Provent 200 is very easy to install. The top port is the inlet, the lower side the outlet, and the bottom is the drain.

The drain line runs to the oil sump. If the drain port on the pan is below the oil level then no vacuum check valve is needed. If the drain port is above the oil level as it is on the ATS/Speedtech pan in the Camaro, then the Mann-Hummel vacuum valve is needed. The drain port on the Provent 200 is subject to PCV vacuum, so once the engine starts the valve closes, creating a closed system. Once vacuum is released, so is the valve, and any oil accumulated drains to the pan.

I purchased it a decade ago from a Porsche online store. This place has pretty good prices for filters, maybe they have the whole unit. https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/ I suggest getting an extra filter since they are not something the local parts store is likely to have.

The other nice thing is that Mann Hummel is global company dealing with major manufacturers. They have real data and instructions, like these: https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/kataloge/kataloge-wartungsanleitungen-mann%2Bhummel/kurbelgehauseentlueftung/ProVent_en.pdf

On a similar topic, I've had good luck with this part as well. http://mewagner.com/

[John McIntire]

How about a kindergarten level explanation of how to route hoses and return lines from valve covers to valley covers to intake plumbing.
About the only thing that's clear is the oil drain back :rotfl:

[dhutton]

Fresh air hose from intake tube (between MAF and throttle body) to valve cover. Catch can input to valley cover. Catch can out to throttle body. Pretty simple...

Don

[CarlC]

Some LS engines, like mine, do not have a valley cover engine outlet. The LS6 in the Camaro has an engine exit on the opposite side valve cover.

In any case, as Don notes:

1) Fresh air from after the filter and after the MAF (if the engine has one) but before the throttle blade routed to a valve cover inlet, typically on the passenger side.
2) Dirty air engine outlet to the PV200 inlet. Dirty air can be from the valley cover, drivers side valve cover, etc.
3) PV200 outlet to engine vacuum (after the throttle blade.)