Stronger wheel studs needed?

[NovaSF]

Just finished the Nova project and finally got around to putting on some decent tires (nitto 555Rs). Might be over thinking this but wondering What are the limits of the stock (7/16-20 dorman) wheel studs? Do I need stronger ones?


Car has an LS3 (440 whp/400 wtq) TKO 600, 8.5 10 bolt 3.91s and 1/4 wheel spacers. The current studs are plenty long.


Thanks!

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Studs will be the least of your worries. I suspect the 10bolt will come apart before the studs do!

[NovaSF]

Noooooooo (I hope not). The 8.5 inch 10 bolt gets a bad rap and is stronger than most think. Had the Eaton posi rebuilt and stronger axles put in. Car is a street car, will probably only see a prepped drag strip once or twice in its life.

[CTK]

It’s pretty easy to drill or have someone drill them for bigger studs for peace of mind. Though you’d find they are engineered to match the size of the axles, bearing etc.

[raustinss]

It's not the 10 bolt the messes the bed ... it's the small c clip axles

[JustJohn]

Having lost a wheel...1/2" studs all around.

[Zspoiler]

I have a 1979 Z-28 Pro Touring carwith a 500 Hp 377 small block chevy .It has an Super T-10 4 speed and an 8.5 10 bolt with a Moroso "brute strength" posi .30 spline Mosier axles .ARP 7/16 x 20 studs . with no issues .And if you are really worried .You can always go with 1/2" studs.

[CTK]

Maybe give Mosser a call. They will be the best to advise.
Firstly make sure the rim is secure on the axle boss. It takes the bulk of the load. The studs only hold the rim to the flange in sum degree.

[badazz81z28]

Just finished the Nova project and finally got around to putting on some decent tires (nitto 555Rs). Might be over thinking this but wondering What are the limits of the stock (7/16-20 dorman) wheel studs? Do I need stronger ones?


Car has an LS3 (440 whp/400 wtq) TKO 600, 8.5 10 bolt 3.91s and 1/4 wheel spacers. The current studs are plenty long.


Thanks!


I would upgrade...with that power level I would at a minimum use ARP studs. I have seen 12mm OEM studs break, upgrading them is cheap insurance.

[JustJohn]

One observation about Dorman (since I work in the industry), they have no production facility. They are basically a resale company and their parts receive very minimal scrutiny or validation.

I certainly wouldn't put their stuff in a racing application.

[Rod]

your 8.5 10 bolt will be fine use good axles and a good posi... I have had no issues for 10 years of hard racing


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[CTK]

your 8.5 10 bolt will be fine use good axles and a good posi... I have had no issues for 10 years of hard racing


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175933

[emoji106]

[NovaSF]

Hell yeah nice Camaro!

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks everyone for the advice.. After some research I think the best option for me is upgrading to 7/16 ARP studs. Drilling out the axles to accommodate 1/2 is not in the cards right now. The ARP ones are a bit longer but would rather be safe than sorry.

Only thing I’m worried about is the Knurl Diameter ..... 0.486 on the ARPs and 0.472 on the stock Dorman ones. Hoping they’ll go on without any machining of the hub needed but we’ll see.

Some interesting notes... the stock Dorman studs are grade 8.

[eville]

That's a big difference in knurl diameter to just pull through.
I'd take the studs and axles to a machine shop and have them installed. While you're at it just to thread in 1/2" studs. The cost wouldn't be that much.

[Tsaints1115]

I was just going to say the cost of better studs is far cheaper than the results from broken cheaper ones.

[TheJDMan]

If you have to enlarge the flange holes anyway for your new ARP studs you might as well upgrade to 1/2". It would be a waste of time and money to retain the 7/16 studs.

[CTK]

They should go in fine. Are you bashing them in or pressing?
Make sure you use the tension ARP state when torquing the wheels.

[NovaSF]

I was gonna try and pull them through with a nut, after talking to a few knowledgeable sources (Sierra Axle, Moser) I don’t think that’ll work without enlarging the holes a bit.

I can try to grind down the wheel stud holes a little and pull through some ARP studs but that seems a little hokey (or not)

How difficult is it to remove/re-install the axles? I’m somewhat mechanically capable (probably a 5 out of 10) but a little hesitant on getting in there. Just don’t want to mess anything up (just had the posi rebuilt and new bearings installed).

It would be cheaper for me to take out the axles and get them machined and then reinstall vs $400-$500 from the rear ended shop remove/machine/re-install.

Thoughts...?

[JustJohn]

It's not that hard. Messy, but not hard. Shouldn't take more than an hour including lifting the car.

[NovaSF]

Good news (light bulb moment)... started researching how to get the axles out and was set on pulling them. Started thinking a little more And walking through the process .... (lightbulb)... the axles are new, are there any other provisIons on em for different studs...? Duhhhhhh. Went downstairs and pulled off the drums and viola.. after laughing out loud to shake off the embarrassment, called Sierra axle to confirm... yep, the axles are also provisioned to accept 1/2 - 20 screw in studs. YESSSSSS!
Looks like I’ll just need to enlarge the stud holes on The drums.

Thanks everyone!

[TheJDMan]

Excellent!

[CTK]

Good to here.

[raustinss]

Lmfao love those "dumb" moments that work out for the best